Door panel removal procedure (1 Viewer)

[dnp]

As was the case with my 100 series https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/327860-door-panel-removal-process.html, I performed a search for "door panel removal" on my 80, and although I came up with bits and pieces on several threads, they all left out steps that I needed to know. Therefore, on the chance that someone needs to know how to do this from beginning to end (the front doors on a 95 FZJ80, anyway), the following is a rundown:


1. Locate the small, black "finishing" plastic triangle on the top of the door panel (at the leading edge of the window - see the upper right side of photo 1), and pry it off. (Photo number 2 will show you the back side - just so you'll know how it's affixed to the door). It would probably be pretty hard to do so, but be sure not to break off the little plastic connector on the top.

 

[dnp]

2. Remove the screw in the inside door handle trim (See second photo for how the back of this piece looks) Carefully pry the upper trailing (rear) edge of this piece out from the door panel. Note in the second photo that the front end of the back of this piece has a little nub that keeps it seated, so the rear of the piece needs to be pulled out first)

 

[dnp]

3. Carefully slide a flat tool under the leading (front) edge of the window/door switch panel. Gently pry up on this piece, being careful not to scratch the plastic. There is a spring-type clip near the front edge, so once this releases, you can pull up this panel to reveal the underside and wiring. Before you go any further, let the window all the way down. It’ll make things easier at the end. On the underside of the window switch wiring connector (forgot to take a photo), there is a “button” that must be depressed on the plug to allow it to release from the power window switch. Press this button, and pull out the wiring plug.

 

[dnp]

4. Carefully slide a flat tool under the trailing end of the door arm rest, and pry it up - be careful not to scratch the plastic). There are three spring-type clips on the arm rest (see second photo), and they just pop out. Once you’ve removed the arm rest, remove the screws shown on either end of the arm rest base on the door panel (see photo three.)

 

[dnp]

5. Remove the screw underneath the door pull.

 

[dnp]

6. Remove the light fixture at the bottom of the door panel, and unplug the wiring to it. (NOTE: it may be easier to remove this light fixture after you pop loose the rivets found in step 7. The lens is held on in a way that it’s easy to crack unless you pop out the entire light housing before you remove the lens. I don’t know the best way to do this, so some of the other people might have some suggestions on this........If anyone has a good suggestion on this, let me know, and I’ll update this thread with your recommendation. Thanks.)

 

[dnp]

7. There are 13 pop-in “rivets” on the back of the fiberboard door panel backing. Remember this IS a cardboard-like panel, so be advised that it IS possible to pull the panel in a way that tears these rivets off the door panel (I did so on a couple of them, until I figured out to pry the door panel very close to each rivet - unfortunately, until I did this the first time myself, I didn’t know how many rivets to expect to find). Once you’ve popped all of the rivets loose, simply pull the bottom of the door panel away from the door a short distance, and lift the leading and trailing edges of the panel straight up. If the window sweep catches on the upper part of the door, just move the door panel bottom a bit closer to the door and pull up again. It should come off without any real problem.

 

[80ways]

Nice write up - thanks!

 

[pruboy]

I've been waiting to put in some front speakers until the weather got nicer and until I found a link on taking the door panel off, 1/2 is done now that you've posted this. Great attention to detail in the write up. This will help save a ton of trial and error.

 

[SpeedAgent]

This is very helpful- my next question would be how to then lube the window tracks? Do you need to cut or remove the plastic sheet? Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread, but I thought it would be relevant.

 

[dnp]

This is very helpful- my next question would be how to then lube the window tracks? Do you need to cut or remove the plastic sheet? Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread, but I thought it would be relevant.

It would depend on how bad off your tracks are. It's been my experience that you can, generally, just spray silicone lubricant down the window tracks without removing the door panel at all. If you do that, at the same time working the window up and down in the track, I don't think there's a need to go inside the door (I used to work at a factory-authorized Ferrari dealership, and that's what the techs did there........worked like a charm). However, if you DO end up going inside the door, I would recommend carefully pulling the plastic sheeting away from the door at the edges. It is held on with a dense, black mastic adhesive, so if you're careful, you can just press it back in place when you're done. As this plastic is used as a moisture barrier (and it probably acts as a slight sound barrier, as well), I wouldn't advise cutting it at all. Just be careful with it, and it can be pulled away and put back in place many times..........

 

[lacruiser]

It would depend on how bad off your tracks are. It's been my experience that you can, generally, just spray silicone lubricant down the window tracks without removing the door panel at all. If you do that, at the same time working the window up and down in the track, I don't think there's a need to go inside the door (I used to work at a factory-authorized Ferrari dealership, and that's what the techs did there........worked like a charm). However, if you DO end up going inside the door, I would recommend carefully pulling the plastic sheeting away from the door at the edges. It is held on with a dense, black mastic adhesive, so if you're careful, you can just press it back in place when you're done. As this plastic is used as a moisture barrier (and it probably acts as a slight sound barrier, as well), I wouldn't advise cutting it at all. Just be careful with it, and it can be pulled away and put back in place many times..........

The sealant can be strong, and if you pull the plastic sheet too fast, it will tear. Use a razor blade to slowly cut along the sealant as you pull the sheet back. If you do tear/cut the sheet, it can easily be taped up after it's put back in place. This sheet is a weather barrier, and it also keeps wind out as well.

There are a couple of tools you can buy that make removal of the pop-in clips (on the back of the panel) a breeze.

good writeup!

 

[VCCruzr]

Great write-up, thanks dnp! I will be doing this tonight so I can install my new Polk Audio DB651 speakers in the front doors.

 

[Brentbba]

Very concise! Thanks!

 

[dmrich1]

Thank you - I am replacing the speakers in my 97 soon and I think I need to remove the panel to get to the speaker. The speaker covers themselves don't pop off and give you access to the speaker intallation screws, right?

 

[ERG80]

Thanks for the write up.

 

[Brentbba]

Mods - this most excellent do it by the numbers w/pics belongs in the FAQ section too! Can we have it put there?

 

[VCCruzr]

Mods - this most excellent do it by the numbers w/pics belongs in the FAQ section too! Can we have it put there?

X2!

 

[CowboyUp]

Good job!
Thanks

 

[semlin]

this is now added to the faq