Outer Rust on Knuckles?

ShawnTRD · 11-04-09, 08:05 PM

I see people that have these leaking and other that just look like clean bare steel. Mine look like this. I take there a something else that seals these? If I did a rebuild sometime next summer can I clean these up and maybe powder coat them?

ShawnTRD · 11-04-09, 08:07 PM

or I guess that looks like it's one piece with the axle. Powder coat the hole axle???

Joe Egolf · 11-04-09, 08:27 PM

I believe "IF it aint broke don't fix it" .You might clean them up,[ball portion], and put a light coat of grease on the Ball portion.I would not go there ref a rebuild,your seals obviously do not leak, maybe clean and paint the axle housing

Ebag333 · 11-04-09, 08:29 PM

Sell it and buy a new one.

Seriously.

Okay, plan B (for me) would be to disassemble the whole front end. Clean everything out so there's no grease in the knuckles (you might need to drain the diff, but shouldn't need to open it up). Take the axle housing down and have it sand blasted (actually pretty cheap to do). Repaint with POR-15 (more expensive than rattle can, but it will hold up far beyond what most paint or even powder coating will).

You do not want to powder coat it because if you get one scratch or nick in it, the rust will get under the powder coating and run, you'll never be able to see it until the powder coating starts flaking off.

Not too expensive, but a lot of work. Combine it with a front end rebuild and there's really not THAT much extra work, except unbolting all the suspension/steering components (which might be fun....).

lndcruz · 11-04-09, 09:24 PM

If the axle is that bad what does the rest of the frame look like

I don't know much about the front axle or how its sealed but it seems all that rust would make the seals fail faster than clean steel?

nat88toy · 11-04-09, 09:53 PM

mine were not that bad but i did get a wire wheel for the grinder and hit it with that then i used some scotch brite pads with rubbing alcohol and buffed the hell out of the balls and put a fine layer of grease on the out side after came out very well this was all followed with the full axle rebuild withe the knuckles off the truck

by the way where are you located that is a good amount of rust

cool breeze · 11-04-09, 09:57 PM

Did you find that in the bottom of the ocean, looks like nature's property already.

ShawnTRD · 11-05-09, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nat88toy

by the way where are you located that is a good amount of rust

Quote:

Originally Posted by cool breeze

Did you find that in the bottom of the ocean, looks like nature's property already.

Upstate NY

The frame is solid but not rust free. I will drive this 80 for 3-5 years. Then hopefully either sell it or part it out, and find a southern 80.

CycloSteve · 11-05-09, 04:04 AM

Holy #r@!&, that is some serious rust going on there. Salt on the roads really does take it's toll.

My only thought was similar to Ebag333's, strip to bare metal and paint...but if you are churning it over in 3-5 years, well, perhaps just a little cleanup and grease to the knuckles as suggested in other posts.

MoJ · 11-05-09, 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShawnTRD

I see people that have these leaking and other that just look like clean bare steel. Mine look like this. I take there a something else that seals these? If I did a rebuild sometime next summer can I clean these up and maybe powder coat them?

Have you checked to see how much grease is in the knuckle cavity (via the square fill plug at the top of the knuckle)? That rusted surface should be in contact with grease everytime you turn. As you turn back to straight a felt seal wipes off the grease, leaving a thin fim across the surface, hopefully preventing the wild surface rust you have. I'm no rust belt expert but it would seem if things were operating properly you wouldn't get that amount of rust.

Squash · 11-05-09, 05:51 AM

Are you driving this now!!!!
If you plan on driving you had better check and fill the knuckle with moly grease at the very least.

Even in our rust belt a properly greased knuckle has a shiny look with a film of grease...

ShawnTRD · 11-05-09, 06:01 AM

ok I'll have to pull that plug tonight. Do the front wheels have to come off? What grease should I use, and is it like the Diff where you fill it to the top of the filler hole?

bignasty · 11-05-09, 07:38 AM

It looks like to me like it got really hot. You better hope there is grease or fluid in there. Looking at the pictures it seems you need to either stop driving it or dump 2 tubes per side if you cant check it at the top.

nat88toy · 11-05-09, 08:14 AM

i grabbed an 80 up in Maine for parts and the axles were in about the same condition yours are in so i had them sand blasted then I por15 and top coated them with spray paint, not sure if you want to get that route but it was a fun project

you can see the knuckle balls in boath pics its a good before and after shot
oh and 2nd getting some greese in there now it most likely dry and need a rebuild

donutfj80 · 11-05-09, 08:18 AM

Call me, I'll take a look. Plus I need to do mine and I have an extra axle for parts...

Kernal · 11-05-09, 10:14 AM

Anyone know if the entire knuckle ball comes from the factory painted, or would it be OK to paint them when everything is apart for the front axle service??

ToothDr · 11-05-09, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kernal

Anyone know if the entire knuckle ball comes from the factory painted, or would it be OK to paint them when everything is apart for the front axle service??

IIRC the entire knuckle ball is not painted from the factory.

chapel gate · 11-05-09, 02:07 PM

i can see traces of paint on mine, looks like it was there from new but cant be sure. i was also thinking about painting my cruisers knuckles, the main reason being one gives up a lot of grease even with new seals. a couple of coats of paint should make a tighter seal.

Kernal · 11-05-09, 02:52 PM

Yeah, my thinking was the paint will decrease rusting, but then again if properly greased it shouldn't rust. I usually smear some fresh grease on the balls after cleaning them. Nat88toy's painted axles are nice.

corsair23 · 11-05-09, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShawnTRD

ok I'll have to pull that plug tonight. Do the front wheels have to come off? What grease should I use, and is it like the Diff where you fill it to the top of the filler hole?

Wheels don't have to come off but it is easier with them off...If you leave them on, crank the wheel all the way one direction and check one knuckle (i.e. full PS, check PS knuckle) and then switch.

You might want to hit the plug with some PB Blaster or similar first and let it soak, then clean off the area so you don't knock any crud down into the birf.

As for grease, you want to use a good moly-fortified grease...I've been using the Valvoline stuff - This is the black grease (typically) vs. the red wheel bearing grease.

As for how full...The knuckles are "supposed" to be about 3/4 full but if you can figure out how full they are via that little hole you are better than me

...You can try to stick a long screwdriver down there or similar but IMO that really doesn't tell you much other than if there is some grease in there or none

- Like bignasty suggested, buy 4 tubes of moly grease and pump at least one tube into each knuckle and then check...If grease isn't to the top of the hole, pump in the other tube each side...

Bat21 · 11-05-09, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShawnTRD

I see people that have these leaking and other that just look like clean bare steel. Mine look like this. I take there a something else that seals these? If I did a rebuild sometime next summer can I clean these up and maybe powder coat them?

I stripped my swivels down and rubbed mine down with some fine grade wet & dry and then painted them with this stuff, I'm sure it will be available in Oz.

It leaves a smooth resin like coated finish.