[Adam B]

You don't need extended brake lines. Just play around with the brackets and do some hand-bending of the hard lines and you're good to go.

Looks good. I chose to add 30mm front coil spacers to level mine out a bit more. The rear is still a little bit higher than the front when I'm unloaded (90% of the time, as it's my only vehicle). I routinely carry up to about 500lbs in the back and a 120lb boat on top and it still looks level when it's loaded. With the J's and spacers I used Slee plates on the front axle and the steering is good. This put me in perfect territory to run a DC front shaft. Great way to piss away money AND you get the added bonus of having to remove the bloody thing to grease it properly......

[95ToyCruiser]

Originally Posted by Adam B

I used Slee plates on the front axle and the steering is good. This put me in perfect territory to run a DC front shaft. Great way to **** away money AND you get the added bonus of having to remove the bloody thing to grease it properly......

This is the delema I'm having, my steering is not THAT bad. I mean I've driven much worse. But I would like to get the castor back into spec.

I was thinking of cutting the knuckles off and turing them to achieve the correct castor. This way my DS would still be in line and I would have correct castor. I just don't wanna go with a DC DS cause of the $ as well as the added maintenance and the fact that you have one more U-joint to worry about.

I have to tear down the driver's side knuckle anyway to do a burf, so I figure that I'll just tear down the pass side AGAIN adn repack it while I'm in there and rotate the knuckles for free.

I should be able to measure my castor now, then just turn it the correct amount when appart, correct?

Just a thought, I'm not one to do things the easy way and I usually end up doing this afterwards