Slight clicking into heavy clanging + ABS. help?

tonygray · 11-03-09, 04:55 PM

Hi there, thanks for taking the time to help out. I've searched the FAQ's and forums and found some good info, but still not entirely sure.

I have a 93 with automatic trans. and 145k miles.

Last week noticed a slight clicking when accelerating from a stop and going away once at speed. The sound seemed to be coming from the front right underside. Last night the sound escalated into a much more severe "clacking" sound noticeable during idle, getting worse during acceleration and finally subsiding at speed. It also seemed worse while turning. Also made a strange "clack" when I threw it into park too fast. Also the ABS light came on last night but was no longer on today when I went to check.

The sound, however was still there and just as bad as last night. I jacked it up and pulled the wheel off. All bolts and sensors were secure and no leaks were noticeable. I did notice that the right hub was bone-dry and slightly rusty, where the left hub was slightly greasy and dark.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Many thanks.

john_eckels · 11-03-09, 05:06 PM

It sounds like you need to tear into it. I am betting that either the drive flange is stripped or your birfield is trashed from lack of grease. EDIT, did you try turning the wheel by hand when you had the truck jacked up?

IdahoDoug · 11-03-09, 05:15 PM

One check you should do IMMEDIATELY is to ensure your 4 lower knuckle bolts are tight as this could be the knuckle coming off which is extremely dangerous.

It's puzzling you mentioned you hear it at idle. Literally full stop in D sitting at a stop, because that would be very odd if it's a birfield coming apart?

As an immediate fix I suggest pumping some grease in the birf chamber using the square plug atop it.

DougM

BrotherRob · 11-03-09, 05:20 PM

This doesn't entirely fit your discription, but the right side sway bar mount is usually the first one to break. It makes a bunch of strange creeks and pops and tends to take out the ABS and/or brake lines when it gives away completely.

It may not be your problem but it's easy to check. If it's not attached to the axle on both sides, take it out until you can get it fixed. Good luck.

tonygray · 11-03-09, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

One check you should do IMMEDIATELY is to ensure your 4 lower knuckle bolts are tight as this could be the knuckle coming off which is extremely dangerous.

It's puzzling you mentioned you hear it at idle. Literally full stop in D sitting at a stop, because that would be very odd if it's a birfield coming apart?

As an immediate fix I suggest pumping some grease in the birf chamber using the square plug atop it.

DougM

Yeah, just went to check it again. In D the sound is much more subdued and sometimes not even there. Almost as if there is a slight rattle from the vibration of the motor. Will check the knuckle tomorrow.

IdahoDoug · 11-03-09, 08:46 PM

I think you're missing the most important part of my question. At full stop the birf will not be moving so there'd be zero noise from it. So again - literally full stop in D sitting at a stop?

DougM

tonygray · 11-03-09, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

I think you're missing the most important part of my question. At full stop the birf will not be moving so there'd be zero noise from it. So again - literally full stop in D sitting at a stop?

DougM

OK Just went back out to check. This time the engine was cold and therefore was at a higher RPM. With the higher RPMs, I was able to hear a distinct rattling noise in D at a full stop but not in Nuetral. When I put it back in P it grinded quickly and went back to normal.

jonheld · 11-04-09, 07:20 AM

Exhaust rattle? Heat shields banging around?

Does it sound like 2 aluminum cans banging together or someone hitting a piece of black pipe with a hammer?

95ToyCruiser · 11-04-09, 07:27 AM

Mine does that because I routed the exhaust over the frame and now it's hitting the frame when there's load on the motor (when the engine torques). Hope this helps, try having a friend hold on the breaks and put it in gear. Then crawl under and see what's going on. I'm gonna have to agree with jonheld on this one.

IdahoDoug · 11-04-09, 06:48 PM

Tony,

I'm starting to think this is nothing but an exhaust rattle. Whether it's the heat shields that have come loose (common) or gotten some gravel in them (common) or a hanger on the exhaust farther back is allowing some frame interference, etc would be up to you to find. I'd have a friend put the truck in D and slowly apply more rpms with parking brake on and foot on the brake with you laying next to (not under!) the truck listening for the source. This whole discussion on front axle work may have overshot the simple stuff - exhaust rattle.

DougM

96_cruiser · 11-04-09, 07:48 PM

Mine does the exact same thing, '96 with 117K. It just recently started to do it and I thought it was from my emergency brake cable (which is broken). It sounds like aluminum cans rattling for like 2-5sec while accelerating at around 1800-2200rpm.

Its annoying, I gotta see whats cause rattling and put an end to it.

tonygray · 11-04-09, 10:34 PM

Thanks for the ideas. A friend of mine who had an exhaust rattle on his Cruiser is coming over tomorrow to see if we can pin-point the problem. In lower RPMs it sounds like it could be exhaust, but when accelerating it sounds much more intense like heavier metal clashing. I was nervous to drive it thinking something serious was going on. The fact that it isn't always consistent is driving me crazy too. Until I can hear it from under the truck, it's just too hard to say. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

tonygray · 11-06-09, 07:49 PM

My friend helped me pinpoint the problem. Here's what we found:

It's definately not the exhaust (although I wish it was)

While in D at a full stop he noticed that the front drive shaft was spinning and the rear was not. To compare, we did the same to his truck and noticed that neither shaft was spinning.

This led us to believe that the front axle is the problem since their was no resistance keeping the axle from spinning. Most likely a stripped drive flange/birfield. To help confirm this we engaged the CDL switch. At which point the front drive shaft no longer moved. The clanging and grinding went away during a test drive with the CDL on except for very slight noises here and there.

Any other theories before I look into an axle rebuild? Any tips on parts and procedure for the rebuild?

many thanks

IdahoDoug · 11-06-09, 10:34 PM

This is a simple test to know if you've got big problems (birfield) or a small easily fixed problem (drive plate).

This is so simple it will take you 10 minutes if you stop for coffee - you don't even take the wheel off. Walk up to the truck and yank the center cap off the right front wheel (that's the one you suspect, you can also do the left if needed). You're now looking at a steel grease cap that can be pried off with a screwdriver and hammer or other appropriate tool. Be patient as they're excellently fit - very tight. Once it's off, you're looking at the axle tip sticking through the drive plate and the splines where they mate/mesh. Take a piece of tape and put it across the axle and onto the drive plate after wiping the axle end clean so tape will stick. Or, draw a line across the driveplate and the axle. Either way, if the axle slips you'll be able to tell. Now start the truck, get it to make the clang noise sitting still, hop out and see what's happened. If the tape's torn or the lines no longer line up, the axle spun in the drive plate and you can drink a beer in celebration. That means the drive plate splines wore out because some moron did not put grease in them and you can buy a new one and put it on for under $50 and an hour of your time. If it's not the drive plate then you're going to need to buy a birfield. I'm guessing drive plate. Let us know while you're drinking the beer.

DougM

IdahoDoug · 11-06-09, 10:37 PM

PS, you'll need snap ring pliers (flat tips type) to get the snap ring out, and read in the FAQ how to get those little tapered washers out without losing them, or your mind. A bronze hammer or bronze punch will also be needed and the paper gasket under the drive plate. Cdan will set you up. Don't overtighten these as they'll snap. The torque is low - like 12 ft lbs or something.

DougM

tonygray · 11-07-09, 09:51 AM

I guess I'm not ready to crack a beer just yet...

I tried the tape method on both wheels and no movement whatsoever on either one. Damn.

Anything else before I take the plunge?