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10-20-09, 08:11 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 97
| Real Time Radiator swap OK, so last night I pulled the radiator on my 97 and everything went pretty much according to plan except the two nuts you need to take off from the front. Basically, you are supposed to remove the grill and get to the two nuts from the front. However, there is no good way to get to them. I ended up taking the bolts out of the top of the radiator frame so I could lean the radiator forward enough to get to the nuts from between the radiator and the oil cooler. Hope this is making sense. Anyways, you have to lean it forward pretty far to get your arm in there and I'm concerned that i might dmg the new one going in if i follow the same procedure.
So the question is is there a better way to get at these nuts?
Thanks
__________________ 1997 FZJ80 factory locked, OME 850/863 N73/N74E, Landtanks seat extension,slees light harness, HIRs, HID off-roads, slees off road light harness. rebuilt front axle 11/28-30/08
Future projects; Bushing replacment, 150amp Alt.... |
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10-20-09, 09:47 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Granite Falls, WA
Posts: 856
| I used a "wobbly" socket extension to remove and install the nuts. The extension allows enough slop to get the proper angle to the nuts. Taping the nut to the socket will prevent the nut from falling and making you lose your temper upon reinstallation of new radiator.  I got my extension set from Harbor Freight but any tool store should have them. They have come in handy numerous times especially when replacing the clutches on my pickups.
__________________ 1997 CE Land Cruiser: Locked, ARB w/ M12000 1996 LX450: Locked, ARB w/ no winch yet 1990 XtraCab 4x4 pickup: ARB w/ M8000 1986 Standard cab 4x4 pickup: Locked, ARB w/ XD9000 1985 SR5 XtraCab 4x4 pickup: ARB w/ M8000 1995 Acura Integra: ARB w/...Just kidding (Daily Driver) |
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10-20-09, 12:23 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 755
| As an added fyi. make sure the wobble, extension and socket are 1/4 inch. Anything larger makes it more difficult. Also the socket needs to be deep.
Buck
__________________ Toyota 4x4's of Texas aka T4x4T
97 LX450 OME 2.5, 1" spacers, CDL w/pin7, Toyo 315's, cup holder, Bullbar, Hannah Sliders & Rear Bumper.
TLCA# 13863 |
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10-20-09, 12:31 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 97
| thanks..I'll try that tonight with the new radiator
__________________ 1997 FZJ80 factory locked, OME 850/863 N73/N74E, Landtanks seat extension,slees light harness, HIRs, HID off-roads, slees off road light harness. rebuilt front axle 11/28-30/08
Future projects; Bushing replacment, 150amp Alt.... |
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10-20-09, 12:45 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | THC 
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mauldin, SC
Posts: 11,609
| I just pushed the A/C condensor to one side or the other. Of course after removing the two mounting brackets that hold it as well as pulling it up a little to get it out of the mounting feet. Then it will move a half inch or so left or right. Enought to get a socket with a u-joint on it.
If the bolt turns then hold it on the edges with a pair of vise grips. |
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10-21-09, 05:47 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,450
| Quote:
Originally Posted by arndog123 I used a "wobbly" socket extension to remove and install the nuts. The extension allows enough slop to get the proper angle to the nuts. Taping the nut to the socket will prevent the nut from falling and making you lose your temper upon reinstallation of new radiator.  I got my extension set from Harbor Freight but any tool store should have them. They have come in handy numerous times especially when replacing the clutches on my pickups. | Exactly as arndog says - its all about long 1/4" inch extensions (prolly two 8 inchers), a 1/4 wobbly preferably lightly taped with tape around the joint so it is, as Bush Sr. use to say "firm but flexible", and then a short dish socket (deep dish can't clear the corner there like the wobbly can). The DS is slightly tighter squeeze but both sides are really pretty easy in and out with this specific setup. Ohh, you can also magnetize the socket so you don't have to tape the bolt to the socket. Hope that helps.
__________________ 97 FZJ80, Locked & Loaded, Safari Turbo, Safari Intercooler, Ceramic Coated Custom Exhaust, Ron Davis Racing Radiator, OME HD 2.5" Suspension, DBA Slotted Rotors, New Toyota Calipers All Around, Toyota Pads, 33" Revos, ARB Front Bumper, Center Diff Switch, Slee Stuff: Roof Rack, Step Sliders, Skid Plates, SS Brake Lines, DC Drive Shaft. HG PM'd, 9.5psi and climbing, My Rocky Mountain Mojo Mobile! |
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10-21-09, 06:39 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Tulsa, OK.
Posts: 171
| I used a 3/8 universal on a deep well socket to get mine out, but it was tight.
I will be putting it back in tomorrow after I get the radiator back from the shop. I hope it goes well. |
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10-31-09, 03:04 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Western SD
Posts: 144
| I did this today. Man you have got to have patience for this little project. I got replacement hoses for the entire cooling system. May as well as you will not have to replace anything in the cooling system for quite some time.
I ended up removing the AC condenser bolts and moving it like Trollhole said. I also removed he grill and head lights. and battery box, but I know have her all back together except for the idler pulley bearing for the biggest belt. Will be doing the Rodney flush in the AM. should be good to go for another while now.
I think that the Toyota engineers could have designed the mounting system and the drain valve so that they were more user friendly.
John. |
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