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Old 10-20-09, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Real Time Radiator swap

OK, so last night I pulled the radiator on my 97 and everything went pretty much according to plan except the two nuts you need to take off from the front. Basically, you are supposed to remove the grill and get to the two nuts from the front. However, there is no good way to get to them. I ended up taking the bolts out of the top of the radiator frame so I could lean the radiator forward enough to get to the nuts from between the radiator and the oil cooler. Hope this is making sense. Anyways, you have to lean it forward pretty far to get your arm in there and I'm concerned that i might dmg the new one going in if i follow the same procedure.

So the question is is there a better way to get at these nuts?

Thanks


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Old 10-20-09, 10:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I used a "wobbly" socket extension to remove and install the nuts. The extension allows enough slop to get the proper angle to the nuts. Taping the nut to the socket will prevent the nut from falling and making you lose your temper upon reinstallation of new radiator. I got my extension set from Harbor Freight but any tool store should have them. They have come in handy numerous times especially when replacing the clutches on my pickups.

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Old 10-20-09, 01:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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As an added fyi. make sure the wobble, extension and socket are 1/4 inch. Anything larger makes it more difficult. Also the socket needs to be deep.

Buck

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Old 10-20-09, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks..I'll try that tonight with the new radiator

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Future projects; Bushing replacment, 150amp Alt....
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Old 10-20-09, 01:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just pushed the A/C condensor to one side or the other. Of course after removing the two mounting brackets that hold it as well as pulling it up a little to get it out of the mounting feet. Then it will move a half inch or so left or right. Enought to get a socket with a u-joint on it.

If the bolt turns then hold it on the edges with a pair of vise grips.

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Old 10-21-09, 06:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arndog123 View Post
I used a "wobbly" socket extension to remove and install the nuts. The extension allows enough slop to get the proper angle to the nuts. Taping the nut to the socket will prevent the nut from falling and making you lose your temper upon reinstallation of new radiator. I got my extension set from Harbor Freight but any tool store should have them. They have come in handy numerous times especially when replacing the clutches on my pickups.
Exactly as arndog says - its all about long 1/4" inch extensions (prolly two 8 inchers), a 1/4 wobbly preferably lightly taped with tape around the joint so it is, as Bush Sr. use to say "firm but flexible", and then a short dish socket (deep dish can't clear the corner there like the wobbly can). The DS is slightly tighter squeeze but both sides are really pretty easy in and out with this specific setup. Ohh, you can also magnetize the socket so you don't have to tape the bolt to the socket. Hope that helps.

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Old 10-21-09, 07:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I used a 3/8 universal on a deep well socket to get mine out, but it was tight.
I will be putting it back in tomorrow after I get the radiator back from the shop. I hope it goes well.
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Old 10-31-09, 04:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did this today. Man you have got to have patience for this little project. I got replacement hoses for the entire cooling system. May as well as you will not have to replace anything in the cooling system for quite some time.

I ended up removing the AC condenser bolts and moving it like Trollhole said. I also removed he grill and head lights. and battery box, but I know have her all back together except for the idler pulley bearing for the biggest belt. Will be doing the Rodney flush in the AM. should be good to go for another while now.

I think that the Toyota engineers could have designed the mounting system and the drain valve so that they were more user friendly.


John.
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