[UWdave]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

The oil pump is inside the timing cover. That is the gear that drives the oil pump and power steering pump. That is the gear that rides in the "un-obtainium" bushing in the block.

That motor is probably toast.

I respect your opinion. However, I'm still not willing to drop +1k on a "probably".

Based on the FSM, it looks like this gear is held in place by the oil pump. The gear on the crank seems fine.

[Brian894X4]

OK, I can't open up the facebook thing. So someone help me with what it showed and what the latest here is.

[UWdave]

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

OK, I can't open up the facebook thing. So someone help me with what it showed and what the latest here is.

The gear my finger is on has about 1/8" to 1/4" of play to it.

The FSM calls it the "oil pump drive shaft gear". The one above it in the photo is the "pump drive shaft gear".

The "oil pump drive shaft gear" appears to fit onto some feature on the block and be held in place by the oil pump/chain cover. I hypothesis, that the "oil pump drive rotor" is damaged and is no longer holding this gear in place.

[Cruiserdrew]

This is the first failure of this type ever posted. Too bad it had to happen to you, but it may be instructive to some future 80 owner. Very interesting and the best thread on mud in some time.

If that's the gear that rides on the brass bushing, then the bushing has come apart. Since for all real intents and purposes, that bushing is unavailable, you need a new motor anyway. Plus, running even a short way without pressure, is fatal, and you will be money and time ahead just replacing it with a good used one.

If you are determined to save this motor, get a look at the rod bearings. If they look good and plastigage OK, maybe you can save the short block. With noise in the head, the cams are toast-remember they don't really have bearings, and ride directly on the aluminum structure of the head.

Search for some old posts by dtaylor about the oil pump bushing. He was able to get one made and posted a source for them.

Can you tell us what motor oil you were running, what filter, and what the motor was doing in the 30 minutes before you developed this problem.

[UWdave]

I bought the truck in May '09 with 181k. I was the 3rd owner and there was a fairly good record of oil changes etc.

I replaced the oil with M1 10w40 and an OEM large filter.

I had just spent about 45 minutes climbing Snoqaulmie Pass in Washington State. I run 35s with stock gearing. The rig was fairly well loaded with 2 passengers and fair bit of water, tools, gear, and beer. I'd been running with OD off for all uphill sections. I'd made it over the pass and was heading down for about 10 minutes when lost power and lights came on.

[UWdave]

Read more about this silly little bearing. LAME.

I'll pull the chain cover and pray for a broken pump shaft. I do understand that the motor is likely toast, but I'd like to know what the route cause of failure was.

Why, because I'm stubborn and refuse to believe a 180k toyota motor is the first motor I'll ever swap.

My old chevy 350 is looking mighty reliable right now.

[IdahoDoug]

Dave,

What city is your truck in?

DougM

[Brian894X4]

What I wonder if it actually lost total pressure and flow or if pressure was just significantly reduced. The reason I ask is that you said the engine never overheated. The lost of oil pressure should have resulted in the engine overheating pretty quickly I think.

Secondly, what actually caused the engine to initially stall? It didn't seize from lack of pressure or overheating. We know that. Plus it restarted right away.

[Sc0-]

I said that because a similar engine with a failed oil pump that is DOHC, usually toasts the cams/lifters/valves first before it starts to spin bearings on the crank/rods. The head might still be repairable but would be far cheaper to get another one and rebuild it.

[UWdave]

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

Dave,

What city is your truck in?

DougM

Federal Way, WA (between Seattle and Tacoma)

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

What I wonder if it actually lost total pressure and flow or if pressure was just significantly reduced. The reason I ask is that you said the engine never overheated. The lost of oil pressure should have resulted in the engine overheating pretty quickly I think.

Secondly, what actually caused the engine to initially stall? It didn't seize from lack of pressure or overheating. We know that. Plus it restarted right away.

I was driving along and then lost power and lights came on. Engine never stalled. Engine starts right back up even days later. Idles noisily.

I'm pretty sure all flow stopped. (read my previous post about replacing filter, running 30secongs, and the filter still being dry)

[UWdave]

I guess I can start pulling this motor. Time to start searching.

[UWdave]

So pulling the motor has started. This is my first time ever pulling a motor so I'm relying heavily on the FSM and experienced friends.

FSM seems greatly lacking at times, but I'm feeling my way through it all. For the lower pan, FSM say "remove 4 bolts through trans." Only problem is that there are 6 bolts.

- Plenty of pictures taken.
- Bolts are going in labeled ziplock baggies

I'm pretty set on just buying a used motor and throwing it in. No rebuild. Want to get back wheeling ASAP. Prices are all over the board. Mainly finding wrecking yards that will give some warranty. Prices shipped from $1300 for 150k motor, $1600 for $96k motor, to guy on here selling rebuilt 40k motor for $2400+ship.

List of things to do:
- Find DIY on swap (any secrets)
- Remove all A/C stuff
- Buy motor
- Part to replace
---Upper & Lower Radiator hose
---Trans cooler hose
---heater hosed??
---PHH (taking the nice silicon kit off old motor)
---thermostat

[cruiserdan]

Replace the head gasket before you install the "new" engine.

[UWdave]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Replace the head gasket before you install the "new" engine.

I felt that one coming. I already read some about it. Doesn't sound like it would be too bad with the engine on a rotisserie.

[jlg32281]

Originally Posted by UWdave

I felt that one coming. I already read some about it. Doesn't sound like it would be too bad with the engine on a rotisserie.

Easy like Sunday morning.

[UWdave]

Anything else?

I'm trying to keep the list limited to what really needs to be done while the engine is out. Manage the spending right now.

What about oil pan seals? I took my pan off on the truck, but I would hate to put it back on while in the truck.

[cruiserdan]

Resealing the pans is more time than money and involves a couple tubes of FIPG and an oil passage gasket. Since the rear arch is prone to leak it would be a good idea. I would also do both crank seals and an oil pump cover gasket.

[UWdave]

The list is growing.

General
- Radiator hoses
- Heater hoses
- trans cooler hoses

On motor
- head gasket
- oil pan seals
- oil passage gasket (the one to the oil pickup)
- oil pump gasket
- rear arch seal
- thermostat
- PHH

Couple of questions:
1) Any links to good engine pull info? Tips & tricks type stuff.
2) I'm going to be removing all the air conditioning. Is there any reason to not completely remove the pump? Like balancing the load on the crank pulley. (ac pull left, alternato/fan pulls up right)

[Sc0-]

Pulling the tranny with the engine? As Dan said, front and rear main seals, oil level sensor seal... I seperated the engine and tranny, mucho PITA and will go back in with tranny attached. We unbolted the AC and power steering so no R12 or PS fluid anywhere... but think to install we will have to remove the condenser and grill. I have one of those 2 ton load levelers for my cherry picker, absolutely a must have IMHO.

Planning on dissecting the previous engine to see if the bushing came apart or if the shaft snapped for the oil pump drive gear? I have talked to a machine shop and it seems that I will be getting a custom bearing fabbed for my '93 engine. DTaylor's source was clueless and wanted to do the entire rebuild $$$, and called another source but they forgot to write down the dimensions of the bearing they made. Due to wear of the idler shaft and the stresses of pressing it in I think the I/D will have to be custom reamed to size anyways.