Aftermarket Front Radius Arms

kidglove13 · 08-31-09, 04:31 PM

Does anybody make after market low profile front arms?
Or, it is what it is with the arms.
I know Slee makes arms but they look like OEM in Style I know they are machined.
I little more ground clearance would be nice in the front.

Would a 3 link be worth investigating?
Cost to do 3 link?

What other options are there for the front end.
I have done tons of research here and on the net, what do you all think?

DMOZ · 08-31-09, 06:30 PM

I'm also interested to hear about options on radius arms.

I'd like to reduce the binding that occurs in the front axle, correct for caster, and still keep safe/practical as a daily driver.

I know ToolsRUs has a good solution for reducing the bind that occurs with OEM arms and that might be the route I eventually take.

Alternatively, Superior Engineering makes these arms Superior Engineering,which some say mimics a 3-link setup.

Thoughts?

mmml4 · 08-31-09, 06:43 PM

Here ya go (if the link works)

Shawn Jackson's Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Page - 3-Link Completed Finally!

kidglove13 · 08-31-09, 06:58 PM

I have seen Action's 3 link, how much would it cost to do is the question?

mmml4 · 08-31-09, 07:09 PM

I am currently putting an 80 series axle under my 4runner and IIRC I will have about $500.00 in it minus the axle, but I did have some materials that were left over from other projects. I think you could do it all from scratch for less than a grand.

retrofive · 08-31-09, 07:14 PM

Another good read if you havent done so is Jodo's build up.

EDIT | found the thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...r-project.html

lt1fire · 08-31-09, 08:20 PM

As far as aftermarket radius arms there are only two that I know of for the US market. Slee and another one that 4wd toyota owner put on one of their rigs. I can't remember the name but it has something to do with a snake... do a search and it will come up.

3 link cost??? If you do it yourself not much.... have someone else do it, could cost a pretty penny

Jodo did JK long arms on his and it looks and seems to work great

There is also a way to flip the arms and have them attach to the top of the axle.... there is also a thread on this that a search will produce.

Good luck with your search.

Ebag333 · 08-31-09, 08:25 PM

If you do a 3 link, I want the bushing/mount that you will cut off one of your arms. I am in need of one....

kidglove13 · 08-31-09, 08:39 PM

Something similar to the JK set up I think would be cool. But I like the idea of a 3 link as well.
I have access to someone who would be more than happy to help me weld it up.
A good materials list would be a good start.
Any ideas?

alkaline747trio · 08-31-09, 10:57 PM

actionjackson's thread is probably the best place for a materials list, that or his website if its still up.

tezzza · 08-31-09, 11:19 PM

Hey there a lots off think you can do with the front arm on your cruiser, One is if your looking for ground clearance is cut off the axle mounts and put them on top off the axle flipping the arm upside down, that is a really good one becuase it all so gives you more flex. I have also seen them made out off pipe, were some one make there own dont really know how strong it would bee to see tho. If your looking for more flex there is the 3 link that every one is talking about wich is good but if your car is not lifted space gets tight under there, but then there is an x link wich keeps you car stable like factory but also give grate flex off road. But looking at my cruiser the front arm dont hang down passed the diff any way so i cant really see the point but it is your car so up to you. good luck and hope all gose well.

P.S the 3 link that shawn jackson has done is not a ture 3 link really it is a 4 link becuase he still has the panhard arm on, i could bee wrong but the 3 links i have done we put a A fram on the top off the diff and do away with the panhard arm then you dont have any side way restricion from it, and i know wot your going to say the panhard arm stops the diff from going sideways but the solid A fram stops the diff from moving sideways becuase it is joid at two points on the chassy like a triangle if you get wot i am saying. any ways the 3 link i have done before work really good you can almost sit the diff up and down upder the car thay are really good.

cruiserdan · 09-01-09, 11:02 AM

Slee used to offer a tubular arm that was a lower-profile. They are not as robust as his current offering and would not be the best choice for a vehicle that is used agressively off-road. That is why his new design exists.

gotmud · 09-01-09, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tezzza

Hey there a lots off think you can do with the front arm on your cruiser, One is if your looking for ground clearance is cut off the axle mounts and put them on top off the axle flipping the arm upside down, that is a really good one becuase it all so gives you more flex. I have also seen them made out off pipe, were some one make there own dont really know how strong it would bee to see tho. If your looking for more flex there is the 3 link that every one is talking about wich is good but if your car is not lifted space gets tight under there, but then there is an x link wich keeps you car stable like factory but also give grate flex off road. But looking at my cruiser the front arm dont hang down passed the diff any way so i cant really see the point but it is your car so up to you. good luck and hope all gose well.

P.S the 3 link that shawn jackson has done is not a ture 3 link really it is a 4 link becuase he still has the panhard arm on, i could bee wrong but the 3 links i have done we put a A fram on the top off the diff and do away with the panhard arm then you dont have any side way restricion from it, and i know wot your going to say the panhard arm stops the diff from going sideways but the solid A fram stops the diff from moving sideways becuase it is joid at two points on the chassy like a triangle if you get wot i am saying. any ways the 3 link i have done before work really good you can almost sit the diff up and down upder the car thay are really good.

Dude, that was painful to read! -Heading to the medicine cabinet for some asprin...

concretejungle · 09-01-09, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotmud

Dude, that was painful to read! -Heading to the medicine cabinet for some asprin...

no kidding

I don't understand why there is any argument for there being more flex by putting the arms on top of the axle instead of it's stock location. You still have the same arms, the same amount of mounting points, same bushings....... doesn't make sense to me. But i agree with getting more ground clearance.

Ebag333 · 09-01-09, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretejungle

no kidding

x3....

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretejungle

I don't understand why there is any argument for there being more flex by putting the arms on top of the axle instead of it's stock location. You still have the same arms, the same amount of mounting points, same bushings....... doesn't make sense to me. But i agree with getting more ground clearance.

The only thing I can think of is that the front tends to bind because of interference. If you move the mounts for the control arms, and flip them, you will change what they interfere with.

The other thought I just had is that you may not change the total range of flex....but may change the range that is available to you. It's like changing the location of the shock mounts and keeping the same shock. If your shock has a real short body, you might gain more length without losing any up travel because you had lots of room for up travel that you weren't using before. It's the same shock, same total travel, you're just changing it to use more.

Tapage · 09-01-09, 03:39 PM

There are another thread here in this section with a Aussie made control arms ( for Patrol and Cruiser ) that hold the axle in 3 points ..

It's like removing one of your cruiser control arm bolts ..

kidglove13 · 09-01-09, 04:55 PM

Yes I saw the aussie arms but they are like $1000

I have no idea what I want to do really, maybe just leave it the way it is.
Like they say if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I was thinking of trying to design my own which could always be a fun project.

tezzza · 09-02-09, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ebag333

x3....

The only thing I can think of is that the front tends to bind because of interference. If you move the mounts for the control arms, and flip them, you will change what they interfere with.

The other thought I just had is that you may not change the total range of flex....but may change the range that is available to you. It's like changing the location of the shock mounts and keeping the same shock. If your shock has a real short body, you might gain more length without losing any up travel because you had lots of room for up travel that you weren't using before. It's the same shock, same total travel, you're just changing it to use more.

Yeah your right on the money there but also the arms hit the steering drag link when on the bottem binding it up even more, if you keep the factory arm after lifting the car there is bugger all clearance between the too thats if you put in caster correction plates, so when one gose down the other gose up and hits and drag link, when flipping the control arms there is more clearance between the too.

Walking Eagle · 09-02-09, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretejungle

no kidding

I don't understand why there is any argument for there being more flex by putting the arms on top of the axle instead of it's stock location. You still have the same arms, the same amount of mounting points, same bushings....... doesn't make sense to me. But i agree with getting more ground clearance.

There is one thing that is different, and it's that one thing that makes all the difference. The arm is more level. More level arm has less front to back movement when it goes up and down. Less front to back movement - less binding in the bushings.