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Old 07-04-09, 11:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Welding OEM roof rack holes above sunroof pan

Does anyone know if the sunroof and pan needs to come out to properly weld the forward row of nutsert holes closed? Body shop quotes including toyota don't include messing with the sun roof. Can they weld them shut from outside and not drip in molten metal onto the pan, thus potentially burning a hole in it? They either overlooked this or know they they can slide in a thin protective plate (like a oven liner) just under the roof sheet metal and above the sunroof glass/pan with the sunroof opened a bit to catch any falling debris. They are all closed today so cant call them. Headliner is out and I'm ready for the next step. I figure I'd try to tackle the sunroof to save some $ if it needs to come out which I'm still researching, or if it doesnt I'm looking forward to letting the body shop do their thing.


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Old 07-05-09, 07:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The PO in mine closed them up with the bots and covered it up with a little square of LineX. It was the pro LineX and not the Checker brand. I thought it a weird at first, but since it's on the roof and I don't stare at it all of the time I don't mind it as much anymore. Cheaper than bodywork. I'll attach photo in a bit.

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1996 FZJ80
  • factory locked
  • vacuum gauge
  • air bags in rear
  • 7 pin tow plug with electric brake control
  • aux 12V #6 wire to the rear
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Old 07-05-09, 08:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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there you go.




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1996 FZJ80
  • factory locked
  • vacuum gauge
  • air bags in rear
  • 7 pin tow plug with electric brake control
  • aux 12V #6 wire to the rear
  • 19.5 mpg on the long haul!
1976 FJ40 --Retired

Last edited by NerdNoise; 07-05-09 at 08:10 AM. Reason: Fotmatting
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Old 07-05-09, 09:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I like the Line-X trim on the hood... My rig has the factory hood deflector and the PO had let leaves and crap build up, now it is rusted under the deflector, this might be a good option for me to "repair" the hood.

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Laughter and tears are both responses to frustration and exhaustion. I myself prefer to laugh, since there is less cleaning up to do afterward.
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Old 07-05-09, 09:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I wish he had done the bumpers at the same time so I don't have to.

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1996 FZJ80
  • factory locked
  • vacuum gauge
  • air bags in rear
  • 7 pin tow plug with electric brake control
  • aux 12V #6 wire to the rear
  • 19.5 mpg on the long haul!
1976 FJ40 --Retired
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Old 07-05-09, 09:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Has anyone removed the roof rack, coated IT with line-X, sealed it and replaced it on the roof? I was considering it.

Does everyone HATE the rack?? I kinda like mine.

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Laughter and tears are both responses to frustration and exhaustion. I myself prefer to laugh, since there is less cleaning up to do afterward.
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Old 07-05-09, 09:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't see a problem with the factory rack. Most folks like to add the Safari racks for the following reasons:
  • Grins and giggles
  • Looks
  • heavier load capacity
  • lights
  • tools, shovels, jack-alls
  • Grins and giggles
It all depends on what you are going to do with it. If you are going to mount bikes and a Space Cadet go get a Yakima rack or use the factory one. If you going to drive across the Northwest Territories (or at least talk like you do) get and expedition rack and loose the factory one.

Personally I have avoided putting a rack on to avoid making the car top heavy. I think a lot of folks don't realize how heavy all the stuff up top gets. Tires?

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1996 FZJ80
  • factory locked
  • vacuum gauge
  • air bags in rear
  • 7 pin tow plug with electric brake control
  • aux 12V #6 wire to the rear
  • 19.5 mpg on the long haul!
1976 FJ40 --Retired
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Old 07-05-09, 11:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The factory rack is good for light luggage and strollers...yeah it doesnt get the grins and giggles and cant handle heavy loads which many may not really need, but my main concern is the rusting holes that will only get bigger with time. I plan on keeping the truck a long time and being OCD and AR I want to get rid of the garbage up there and start looking into a custom rack (havent decided). I yanked the spoiler too as it has 6 rusty nutserts to deal with and the spoiler likes to get caught up on low hanging branches while in reverse and it really doesnt seem to do anything except get grins and giggles from '94 and earlier 80 owners due to its size, location and angle vs the the roofline...dust still builds up on the tailgate.

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Old 07-05-09, 11:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Does anyone have any leads on a source for some Safari racks that don't cost $1200? Used would be great since there is nothing that a coat of flat black rattle cannot fix. Search Craig's List and it all comes back with Yakima and Thule.

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1996 FZJ80
  • factory locked
  • vacuum gauge
  • air bags in rear
  • 7 pin tow plug with electric brake control
  • aux 12V #6 wire to the rear
  • 19.5 mpg on the long haul!
1976 FJ40 --Retired
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Old 07-05-09, 12:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I am going hitch mounted for bikes, and anything else small. Yakima up top, so I can remove it. My old 60 series had a safari rack, and I hated it. That came off as my first change to the truck. In my opinion, those allow too much gunk to build up under them, and rot away the roof. Even the ones that are on rain gutter towers are a bear to remove and put back on - which you need to do to clean under them.

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