[99UZJay]

Ok, so I am putting a donor 1FZ in the 80, what would you replace while you were in there if you were me? I am at the least going to do belts, all hoses, starter, poss alternator. I wouldn't think the water pump would be bad, but I am putting a blue hub fan clutch on her, so any more suggestions?

[Grench]

Originally Posted by 99UZJay

Ok, so I am putting a donor 1FZ in the 80, what would you replace while you were in there if you were me? I am at the least going to do belts, all hoses, starter, poss alternator. I wouldn't think the water pump would be bad, but I am putting a blue hub fan clutch on her, so any more suggestions?

Do the head gasket and PHH on the donor before you put it in. It would be a lot easier on a stand than it was for me under the hood (twice - two trucks).

I'm with you on replacing all the rubber bits. Hoses, belts, etc...

Starter - replace the contacts in the one you have and use it.

Alternator - replace the brushes in the one you have and use it.

Water pump - Replace it. It is a wear out part.

Radiator - have it power flushed and pressure tested (it will be out anyway). Replace if needed.

Fan clutch - if it isn't blue, replace it with a blue one.

Intake tube - inspect for brittle bits. Replace if you see any cracks.

Wiring harness - carefully inspect it where it passes through the fire wall AND up top under the heater valve where it passes by the EGR system. Likely will need to be re-wrapped at minimum and may have roasted bits inside.

Rear heater lines - remove and bypass? - only access is with the transmission out normally. I was able to remove mine with the head off of the engine. I removed them from mine. You may or may not want them there.

Slee headlight wiring harness - With the radiator out, it's easy to access the wiring channel behind it and upgrade the headlight wiring.

PCV valve - you'll have the valve cover off doing the Head Gasket.

Plugs. Wires. Rotor & cap.

And finally - if $$$$ is no object, Supercharger.

Going through Cruiserdan makes any of the above easy for finding all of the right parts the first time.

IMHO YMMV

[FirstToy]

read ali's engine buildup thread in the new mexico club forum. he took the engine out for his hg job- i think he could be helpful.

[gotmud]

I started out planning on replacing the HG only. 2 months later I had a completely rebuilt engine

Of course, I typically take the "while you're in there" approach a little too far. Just ask SJB55 what happened when his mini's hg blew...he now has a new engine too. His doesn't let him come over here any more.

[beno]

Originally Posted by gotmud

His doesn't let him come over here any more.

Too funny. Luckily, I only have my mutt to answer to...

I fully agree with the "while you are in there approach." Kill as many birds with as many stones as you have....or, as your wallet has.....

Happy wrenching.

[99UZJay]

I can guarantee it won't be happy wrenching, but necessary wrenching. The 1FZ looks like a bi**h especially since the FSM shows the engine and tranny coming out as one piece. I will take as many pics as is prudent I guess and see if I get any difference from the newer one than the old one....

[gotmud]

I left the tranny in when I did mine. No regrets.

[alia176]

Originally Posted by 99UZJay

I can guarantee it won't be happy wrenching, but necessary wrenching. The 1FZ looks like a bi**h especially since the FSM shows the engine and tranny coming out as one piece. I will take as many pics as is prudent I guess and see if I get any difference from the newer one than the old one....

Ok, let me give you an idea of the time frame of pulling a long block out. It's pretty easy, really and rather quick. I'd say, plan on about six hours from start to finish. From memory:

- lay down cardboard and a large oil catch pan to catch lots of PS fluid.
- remove the hood
- disconnect the ECU harness behind the glove box (five connectors?) and pull it through
- remove all radiator hoses going to the block. If you're going to leave the radiator in place, then place a large cardboard or plywood in front to protect the fins from damage.
- remove the fan shroud and radiator fan.
- remove the three cables at the throttle body and lay them aside. Be sure to to tape the adjusting nut so that they don't self adjust.
- disconnect the A/C compressor and lay it aside.
- disconnect the PS hose and drain the PS fluid. You can leave the PS pump attached to the block.
- loosen the passenger side engine mount or remove the four bolts on the block only.
- disconnect the ECU harness at: Tcase, trans, O2 sensors, battery.
- disconnect the fuel hose at the filter (only one side of the filter)
- disconnect the purge hose from the charcoal canister
- support and lower the cross member to access those ROYAL PITA bellhousing bolts at the top, near the firewall. You'll curse like a sailor at the top two bolts.
- disconnect & drop out the starter
- disconnect the flywheel/torque converter bolts through the botton tranny access hole. DO NOT remove the torque converter from the tranny. This makes for a very long engine and hard to pull out of the engine bay.
- if you have the head room then pull the engine out. IF you don't, remove the front ARB bumper (if you have one), remove the front radiator support, remove the radiator and lay the A/C condenser down. This allows for more head room.

To get an idea of how much head room you'll need, refer to this picture IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - How to get a diesel freak and an anti 1FZFE freak in the same place? This vehicle has a TJM bumper but didn't have to be removed for the long block install. My garage door is a 7' door for your reference. The 80 is sitting on 315s with a 2.5" of lift. I could've easily flattened the tires or even removed them if needed.

If I think of more items, I'll edit this post.

and good luck.
-
More pics are at http://forum.ih8mud.com/nm-high-dese...ame-place.html

[99UZJay]

I appreciate the helpful advice, maybe we will leave the tranny in. How do you get to the top bolts? Can you tilt the tranny in order to do so, or did you just reach up there? I am looking forward to having a non knocking motor, hopefully better ( at least lower mileage) motor in the 80, and with care and feeding she'll last a while. But seriously thanks for all the good advice!!

[PurpleFJ62]

I helped a friend do it last christmas, it was alot of work. We managed to get the engine out by it self, but had a hell of a time getting all the wiring disconnected w/o breaking any connectors. With the auto trans and t-case behind the engine there is alot metal lines and wiring in there, and you have to find them all.

If I had to do it again I would put the engine and trans in together, then install the transfercase. Having the transfercase installed causes the entire driveline to rotate, and its next to impossible to get it installed. There is nothing worse than trying to line up a trans and engine, those dowel pins neven seem to line up right.

About the top trans bolts, I took the interior apart, removed the shifter assembly and then stuck the impact thru the hole in the floor, zap zap and the bolts were out.

I got a shitload of pictures here.
Morris FZJ80 pictures by NateFrame69 - Photobucket

good luck!!

[gotmud]

I used a ratching wrench for the top bolts. Get comfortable first, because you will need to turn the wrench one click at a time. I would still do it that way vs. pulling engine and tranny together. One trick here is to completely remove the engine mounts and brackets. This allows the powertrain to be lowered down slightly to give you a little more room.

[alia176]

Originally Posted by 99UZJay

I appreciate the helpful advice, maybe we will leave the tranny in. How do you get to the top bolts? Can you tilt the tranny in order to do so, or did you just reach up there? I am looking forward to having a non knocking motor, hopefully better ( at least lower mileage) motor in the 80, and with care and feeding she'll last a while. But seriously thanks for all the good advice!!

If you drop the cross member a tiny bit or simply remove all bolts and support the whole thing with a jack, you'll give yourself some room for the top two bolts.

The top bolt on the driver side was accessed with long 3/8" extensions with a wobbly at the end. The pass side top bolt was easier and using a gear wrench (ratcheting wrench with an offset), I was able to access it from standing in the engine comp. Since my vehicle is completely rust free, I felt comfortable using air impact for bolt loosening and removal (please no lecture about using pneumatic tools). But the top two bolts were hand loosened then air ratcheted off. Pretty much all smaller nuts and bolts were removed in this fashion, which makes for less tired arms.

Seriously, all of this will be forgotten until the actual operation time but at least the info will be knocking around in the back of your noggin

Let me know if you have any more questions.

[Stone]

The rear main seal is a cheap part that is easy to replace when the engine is out of the truck, but a PITA if you have to replace it later when everything's been put together already...just a thought.

[gotmud]

Don't forget the seal for the TC while you have the engine out. $10 worth of prevention.

[alia176]

Originally Posted by Stone

The rear main seal is a cheap part that is easy to replace when the engine is out of the truck, but a PITA if you have to replace it later when everything's been put together already...just a thought.

Absolutely agreed. The FIPG on the rear seal won't smear if you install the oil pan AFTER the seal is installed in the block. This is easy to do on the stand.

Originally Posted by gotmud

Don't forget the seal for the TC while you have the engine out. $10 worth of prevention.

D'oh, now I feel stupid for not replacing the torque converter seal. I didn't know there was one. Dang it

[shm21284]

Originally Posted by PurpleFJ62

I helped a friend do it last christmas, it was alot of work. We managed to get the engine out by it self, but had a hell of a time getting all the wiring disconnected w/o breaking any connectors. With the auto trans and t-case behind the engine there is alot metal lines and wiring in there, and you have to find them all.

If I had to do it again I would put the engine and trans in together, then install the transfercase. Having the transfercase installed causes the entire driveline to rotate, and its next to impossible to get it installed. There is nothing worse than trying to line up a trans and engine, those dowel pins neven seem to line up right.

About the top trans bolts, I took the interior apart, removed the shifter assembly and then stuck the impact thru the hole in the floor, zap zap and the bolts were out.

I got a ****load of pictures here.
Morris FZJ80 pictures by NateFrame69 - Photobucket

good luck!!

Nate is right on this one, its such a pain. The transfer case causes the whole driveline to rotate and there's absolutely no room for rotation of the engine.

Nate, urban off roader??? NICE!

Oh, and I like those Borg-Warner turbos in the avatar. You should post pics of that engine build on the engine stand thread, show it off!