MAF install throws a P0110 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 31, 2008
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Boise, ID
I just installed the Landtank MAF housing with a 22204-21010 sensor that I purchased with the unit (from another 'Mudder). The MAF was new, the sensor lightly used. The truck started and ran fine. After about 10 minutes, the CEL came on. Per the instructions, I reinstalled the original housing and sensor. I went to AutoZone, they pulled the code which was P0110. The CEL went out as I was leaving. I also picked up some MAF cleaner and hosed the sensor down. Reinstalled. Same problem. Before I call Cruiser Dan and order up a new sensor, is there anything else it could be?
 
Did you do the cap the vacuum hose or not? Rick suggests doing this, or else you might get an engine code.

I haven't capped mine yet, and I personally haven't had any codes thrown except for a recent 02 sensor code (P0135), which I am pretty sure is unrelated.
 
The FSM says P0110 is an intake air circuit malfunction. So it sounds like either the sensor is bad, or something is wrong with the connector. You did change the order of the wires on the connector, correct?
 
"Did you do the cap the vacuum hose or not? Rick suggests doing this, or else you might get an engine code."

I did cap the hose. I did not try it without capping it.

"The FSM says P0110 is an intake air circuit malfunction. So it sounds like either the sensor is bad, or something is wrong with the connector. You did change the order of the wires on the connector, correct?"

I did change the order and double checked everything. Not to say I couldn't have screwed it up twice the same way...The check engine light goes off when I reinstall the original MAF housing and sensor. I'm thinking it's the sensor and hoping it's not.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Put an ohmmeter between Pin 5 (E2) and Pin 4 (THA) on the Landtank MAF. It should read between 1000 to 5000 ohms depending on ambient temperature. If not, its probbly bad. If not, look elsewhere.

The code has nothing to do with the vacuum hose, so don't bother trying it with the hose back on.
 
I get 1.85k ohms. It's about 85 outside right now.
 
That looks like the sensor is reading right where it should. Maybe just for a baseline you can run your meter on THA and E2 (pin 3 & 4) on the stock MAF and see how it compares. According to the FSM those two wires are the only ones on the connector that deal with the temp sensor on the MAF and thus if you are getting that code, the problem has to be in either the sensor, those two wires, or the ecu. We should be able to rule out the ECU since the other MAF works fine. If you are confident in your rewiring, then that can be ruled out for the same reason.

Your sensor works with an ohmmeter, but maybe when its installed there is an intermittent open or short? If you had an OBDII reader you could monitor your intake temperature. If it ever reads -40 degrees F then the circuit is open. If it ever reads 284 degrees F then it is shorted.


Note that when the code is triggered, the ECU defaults to pretending like your intake temp is 68 degrees.
 
I had a brand new sensor throw a code and the engine wouldn't idle while an old one worked fine. It ended up being a connector at the plug. I know it sounds crazy but I pulled each connector and bent the internal spring tab so the hole was smaller and plugged it back in and it was fine.

Take a close look at the connector and you'll see a leaf spring inside that is made to contact the pin on the sensor. Slide a small jewelers screw driver in from the crimp end of the connector and bend that leaf spring so it has more tension on the sensor pin when installed.

This is what fixed my problem
 
Tightening the connector worked in this case as well. I pulled each connector out of the housing and tried the fit on the old sensor, which was snug. The new sensor was looser, but I wouldn't call it sloppy. I bent each connector slightly(!!!) as Rick described, and connected them directly to the sensor, without the housing. The test drive went perfectly. On return, I installed each connector back into the housing. Another test drive, and all is well.

Thanks for the help! I really appreciate this forum.
 
Tightening the connector worked in this case as well. I pulled each connector out of the housing and tried the fit on the old sensor, which was snug. The new sensor was looser, but I wouldn't call it sloppy. I bent each connector slightly(!!!) as Rick described, and connected them directly to the sensor, without the housing. The test drive went perfectly. On return, I installed each connector back into the housing. Another test drive, and all is well.

Thanks for the help! I really appreciate this forum.

Thanks for the update. people should realize that this isn't necessarily a LT MAF issue only problem. The connector plugs into the sensor and the harness hangs down off the side. While the harness is supported on the other side, vibrations from driving and such can fatigue those connections which will cause sensor accuracy problems and error codes.

Glad you got everything worked out.
 
This is an old thread, but I'm having the same code, but according to my ultraguage (OBDII reader), my intake air temperature stays between 68 and 70 degrees, even though it's 100 outside.

So, that doesn't seem like a wiring issue. Do I have a new MAF in my future?
I'll try cleaning it tonight
 
Cleaning MAF solved the problem, I'm seeing expected intake temps now.
 
my truck just started throwing a p0110 code. can anyone point me to the connectors i should be checking please? i'm actually dealing with a couple codes lately along with a coolant leak so i left the rad cap loose while i try to get it into a shop for the radiator leak (likely a throttle body coolant hose i think). THANKS.

IMG_1353.jpeg
 

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