CDL Switch and 7pin Gone Wrong

retrofive · 01-11-09, 10:22 AM

So here is where Im at. I did my PHH this weekend. While waiting for the cooland to drain and down time, I decided to install my CDL switch that has been sitting on my desk. My 94 came un-locked no switch. I orded my switch used from a junk yard. Everything went into place just fine. Finished the PHH job and took for a test spin.

Ran over to a dirt parking lot, Put her into N, then 4H to N to 4L. No CDL or ABS light on the dash. At this point the 7pin had not been done. Pushed the CDL switch in... no lights again. Tried several times shifting in and out of 4L to 4H. Switch on and off. Tried several figure 8's. I noticed no difference in its turning or driving, leading me to believe the CDL is not engaging. Pulled the battery and reset the ECU by removing the fuses. Put all back together. Same thing. So after a suggestion to go ahead and do the 7pin mod, I tore it back apart, removed the 7pin. Same issue.

I have tested the CDL relay (transmission relay where the 7pin is) and CDL switch on dash using a volt meter/continuity tester.

I have checked the "diff" and "gauge" fuses. Ok.
I have most the CDL articles RE problems on the forums.

I have been going thru these steps on troubleshooting the CDL system: Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures

I have not been underneath yet to check the 4L switch and actuator.

Anything else I can check?? or Im just missing?

Keep in mind without the CDL switch or 7pin the Center Diff would engage fine in 4L, used just a few weeks ago. Maybe it stopped working before the install and phh job and I havent needed to use it.

SeanAndHis80 · 01-11-09, 10:32 AM

I would say the smartest thing to do is to reverse the installation of the switch, you know, to test the last thing that changed on the CDL lock system. Take out the switch and put back in the plug that went over the connector. If it then locks the CDL when you put it in low - your switch or connection to the switch would be faulty.

retrofive · 01-11-09, 10:38 AM

Sorry forgot to add that to list of things I have done.

Before I did the 7pin mod. I removed the CDL switch and put the factory terminator back on (little connector with jumper cable).

Same thing, 4L doesn't engage. No lights on the dash.

Leads me to believe something failed underneath, and happens to be around the time of my switch install :(. -OR- Anyway possible the switch could have locked something up? or did any damage?

How common is it for the Actuator or 4L indicator switch on the t-case to fail?

SeanAndHis80 · 01-11-09, 10:55 AM

Ah, then I would check for corrosion around the electrical connector to the actuator next. Then test for a signal when the switch is activated.

retrofive · 01-11-09, 11:00 AM

Thanks, I will go check that out.

retrofive · 01-11-09, 02:58 PM

Ok so far in process, this fails....

Test L4 Switch

The L4 switch is located on the top rear of the transfer case, right side (passenger side in the US). It appears to be the same switch as the 4WD Indicator Switch. If you remove the harness from the switch and use a paperclip to jump the harness, with your ignition switch ON, this test simulates shifting your transfer case into 4L and should power your actuator motor.

Beowulf · 01-11-09, 03:19 PM

Start simple. Have you checked your fuses? Do you get power on the harness at the xfer case connector?
-B-

retrofive · 01-11-09, 03:22 PM

So with a paper clip in the L4 switch harness, the one in the rear. Had my hand on the actuator, wife tried the ignition and engaging, could feel a slight click and nothing. Stucked up actuator??? maybe??

Ebag333 · 01-11-09, 03:50 PM

I told you, if you don't bleed on it, you didn't do it right.

You bled on your PHH, not your CDL switch. Which is why your engine didn't blow up and your CDL isn't working.

(Fuses have been checked, Beowulf.)

retrofive · 01-11-09, 05:00 PM

LOL! MORE BLOOD, where is the little smiley face thing with blood dripping down the forehead.

knorrena · 01-11-09, 10:13 PM

Did you remember to clip the wire by the drivers foot rest?

tblume · 01-11-09, 10:45 PM

X, um, ? a couple anyway

oh yeah, read this; http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_centerdiff.htm

IdahoDoug · 01-11-09, 11:18 PM

That L4 switch has needed cleaning once on both my 80s. Its simple - comes right out and you'll see a stout metal rod pushes a solid steel ball to make contact. Just a bit of grundge betwixt them and - poor/no contact. Wipe them off, spring 'em in and out and reinsert taking GREAT care up there not to touch the business end in the grundge around the hole so you put it back dirtier then when you got it out. Reconnect and off you go to locker opertion heaven....

Dougm

retrofive · 01-12-09, 08:17 AM

Yes the 7Pin is clipped. I'll try and remove the L4 switch and clean today if I have time. Thank you guys,

jfz80 · 01-12-09, 11:14 AM

Are you sure you got the black wire w/ blue tracer and not the blue wire w/ black tracer?

edit: nm i see the problem started before you did the pin 7

retrofive · 01-12-09, 01:12 PM

Ya, Im 100% sure I got the correct wire

retrofive · 01-12-09, 05:54 PM

Question: Which one is which?

There is the Transfer Neutral Position Switch and the Transfer L4 Position Switch on the rear of the tcase. I dont know which switch is which? One switch is vertical up at 90* and the other next to it is around 45* facing out towards the passenger side (US LH driver model)?

EDIT: More info, during this process I have seen the A/T light come randomly on the dash when 4low shifter is in neutral. Flakely trans relay?

Beowulf · 01-12-09, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retrofive

EDIT: More info, during this process I have seen the A/T light come randomly on the dash when 4low shifter is in neutral. Flakely trans relay?

Normal. This is telling you that the vehicle will MOVE even if you *think* it is in Park. It is the A/T-P lamp. There is another "A/T OIL TEMP" lamp to indicate a problem with the tranny. Do you have the Owner's Manual?

-B-

retrofive · 01-12-09, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Normal. This is telling you that the vehicle will MOVE even if you *think* it is in Park. It is the A/T-P lamp. There is another "A/T OIL TEMP" lamp to indicate a problem with the tranny. Do you have the Owner's Manual?

-B-

:( I regret to say no. It is on order as of yesterday. It is the A/T-P lamp that sometimes comes on; at least when trying to figure this CDL issue out.

Thank you guys for the responses. I have removed these from tcase switches: Neutral Indicator, 4L switch and 4L indicator switch. All are were clean when removed and look great and operational. Cleaned and lubed for good measure and re-installed. I will start at the top again.

Guess at this point I have know how, just need to re-check.

Beowulf · 01-12-09, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retrofive

:( I regret to say no. It is on order as of yesterday.

You can download an electronic version of your Owner's Manual and *all* other manuals for your vehicle by getting a 1-day subscription to the Techinfo Information System that has all the Toyota and Lexus manuals. You can also get the FSM and the EWD with a few hours work and a $10 fee. Well worth it if you don't have the factory manuals in hard copy. (Many of us have both.)

-B-

retrofive · 01-12-09, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beowulf

You can download an electronic version of your Owner's Manual and *all* other manuals for your vehicle by getting a 1-day subscription to the Techinfo Information System that has all the Toyota and Lexus manuals. You can also get the FSM and the EWD with a few hours work and a $10 fee. Well worth it if you don't have the factory manuals in hard copy. (Many of us have both.)

-B-

Thank you

, I did purchase the 1day for downloads at TIS, unfortunately think I d/l the wrong "parts" pages + probably didn't know the right terminology to make it efficient.

I think I have a much better understanding of how the CDL system works in some respect, just need to double check again based on knowledge I have learned here

EDIT: As for the A/T-P vs. A/T Oil, it was the A/T-P lamp and not AT oil, confirmed. Was trying to throw some ideas out there on what may be the issue. And makes total sense now.

ddorsch · 01-12-09, 11:20 PM

Just a quick thought,are yousure that you got the correct switch.? I seem to remember there being 2 different ones. Unless they were for the '91-'92's. Hope that you solve your problem.

Dave

retrofive · 01-15-09, 10:22 AM

So after tearing everything apart and double checking. With Ebag333's help found there to be a short in dash. Moving around the CDL switch and ECT switch the lights in the switches will go on and off :( After managed to find the short yet.

retrofive · 01-15-09, 05:13 PM

Question is the transmission relay the same 93-94 as the 95-97?

retrofive · 01-15-09, 10:55 PM

nada?

tblume · 01-16-09, 08:39 AM

I got nothing

find that short yet? could it be just a bad ground in that part of that circuit?

retrofive · 01-16-09, 01:07 PM

I havent found the issue yet :(. Tore apart the entire dash and removed the aftermarket stereo in hopes when it was installed something got pinched or cross up. Harness's look good.

tblume · 01-16-09, 01:09 PM

'lectrical gremlins are a killer, you on the road or is the '80 not your DD? you bringing it to the meet?

retrofive · 01-16-09, 07:27 PM

Not my DD, but I drive it a lot just cause its FUN!

Just got it all back together. It will be at the meeting fo sure

This is around my 20th car since Ive been 15. EVERY single one of them the electric gremiln has lived in. Right now he is actually time sharing between my Porsche and cruiser. LOL.

retrofive · 02-19-09, 02:53 PM

Resolved.

After all that Gnob helped diagnose the problem. He tested all the electronics, all ok until trying to get the actuator switch to engage.....

Long story short, it stuck, and eventually got it unstuck.

After reading all the articles on work it until it unsticks and may take 5000 try's, that is what ended up fixing it.