Over the frame mandrel bend exhaust (1 Viewer)

[Walking Eagle]

sick of the under frame - already patched ti once after smashing it - then skid plated it, still didn't like it and had some othrer leak issues anyway so I ordered up two 2.5" mandle 90 deg elbows, and a 45 deg bend. Had to hack the legs off the 90's almost completely to get it short enough, but the test fit looks good. just need my v-grove clamp to show up Monday and work out some hangers (and fix the exhaust leak on the down pipes).

Think it's working out pretty good so far

 

[Walking Eagle]

few more

 

[D'Animal]

Floorboard heat?

 

[Proven]

Looking through your pictures I kept seeing things that might not take that much heat favorably. I say this because I've had a spare tire melt after a shop put on some straight pipes for me (not a cruiser.) Are there concerns that some of that wiring you've run along the frame rails or that light will melt?

How is floorboard temps? It is already a little hot on the passenger side.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Look at a '94 crusier exhaust - the ones with the dual cats in parallel rather than in series. The exhaust comes out of the cats, goes into a Y that turns 90 degrees, goes up over the frame, and then turns to the back of the truck.

I'm mimicing that to a point - I have the section from a '94 sitting in the garage and actually thought of modifying it, but this is easier, don't have to mess with the y - it'll also flow better this way.

The '94 has a different shield that the later models. That big dip up into the floor you see in the red square is all shielded on the older trucks, and the shield that is there is blocking part of that dip. Take the current shield off, replace it with the '94, wa-la - it's all routed pretty close to the way Toyota did it. Well, except the higher flow bends and the 2.5" rather than 2.25", and the extra 1" of clearance I have from a body lift.

If heat does end up an issue, there is always NASA foil from work to use.

 

[Walking Eagle]

for comparison, he'res what the '94 looks like - heat will not be any more an issue with mine than it was in '94

 

[sdog]

i just body lifted my 97, i was thinking about doing the same thing. In FL we dont have emission checks, so my cats are already gone, it would make the whole area very clean in anticipation of some custom sliders.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Looking through your pictures I kept seeing things that might not take that much heat favorably. I say this because I've had a spare tire melt after a shop put on some straight pipes for me (not a cruiser.) Are there concerns that some of that wiring you've run along the frame rails or that light will melt?

moving wiring or a rock light are really not big issues.

 

[Walking Eagle]

i just body lifted my 97, i was thinking about doing the same thing. In FL we dont have emission checks, so my cats are already gone, it would make the whole area very clean in anticipation of some custom sliders.

Still have a cat on mine - it's a magnaflow spun cat - high flow 3way - so I'm still perfectly leagle in most states, and I'm not killing flipper.

 

[alia176]

Still have a cat on mine - it's a magnaflow spun cat - high flow 3way - so I'm still perfectly leagle in most states, and I'm not killing flipper.

What's the Magnaflow model # pls? Is the stock pipe 2.25" or 2.5"?

Thanks.

 

[Walking Eagle]

What's the Magnaflow model # pls? Is the stock pipe 2.25" or 2.5"?

Thanks.

MagnaFlow 54956

MagnaFlow 54956 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com


they make a different one that is offset, which wasn't available anywhere when I bought mine two years ago, which helps create more clearance or can start you in an upward direction.

MagnaFlow 59906 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com

MagnaFlow 54976 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com

as far as if stock is 2.5" or 2.25" - yes.

It's 2.5" going into the cat, and I think from there back it's 2.25. I know the part that goes underneath the truck is 2.25, and I'm pretty sure it was at the stock cat that it changed.

 

[Dusty]

did the same over frame to mine with 3"

went over in same place as you

good job

 

[alia176]

MagnaFlow 54956

MagnaFlow 54956 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com


they make a different one that is offset, which wasn't available anywhere when I bought mine two years ago, which helps create more clearance or can start you in an upward direction.

MagnaFlow 59906 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com

MagnaFlow 54976 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com

as far as if stock is 2.5" or 2.25" - yes.

It's 2.5" going into the cat, and I think from there back it's 2.25. I know the part that goes underneath the truck is 2.25, and I'm pretty sure it was at the stock cat that it changed.

Excellent info, thanks for taking the time. Knowing what you know now, would you have gone with Magnaflow 54976 Cat or 59906 Cat?

Also, are you planning on any flanges in the system or simply weld the whole thing from stem to stern? If flanges are planned, which type are you going to be using?

Thanks again.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Excellent info, thanks for taking the time. Knowing what you know now, would you have gone with Magnaflow 54976 Cat or 59906 Cat?

Also, are you planning on any flanges in the system or simply weld the whole thing from stem to stern? If flanges are planned, which type are you going to be using?

Thanks again.

Actually, I'd probably go

MagnaFlow 59976 - MagnaFlow Universal Spun Metallic Catalytic Converters - summitracing.com

it has a metal subrstrate rather than a ceramic. But I think I would go with the angled to get it started going in the right direction right away, The legs on the 90 deg elbow would probably be long enough that you could go straight from the cat to the elbow over the frame then use another 90 to get it going back to the back of the truck.

not going to be welding it all solid - cat to down pipe will be a v-clamp

Dynatech 60-912300S - Dynatech V-Clamp Kits - summitracing.com

from where what you see ends to the tail pipe I'm not sure, probably will just use a standard u-bold clamp for now and then replace it later when the leaking pisses me off too much.

 

[alia176]

Actually, I'd probably go


Dynatech 60-912300S - Dynatech V-Clamp Kits - summitracing.com

from where what you see ends to the tail pipe I'm not sure, probably will just use a standard u-bold clamp for now and then replace it later when the leaking pisses me off too much.

Holy Guacamole, those V clamps are pricey

 

[Walking Eagle]

Holy Guacamole, those V clamps are pricey

yep. I got mine off e-bay though for about 1/2 that. I'm just sick of clamps that don't work and I want to be able to take out sections without de-welding it.

 

[Walking Eagle]

here is how mine is vs. how I would do it if I had the 45 deg exit on the converter. I think the 45 deg converter method would fit up in the early moddle shield area better, the problem with the stock early set up (other than you can't put it on a late model) is that it's such a sharp turn upward.

 

[alia176]

wow, mad 3D skillz! Ok, slap some labels on that drawing for us retards!!

 

[Walking Eagle]

wow, mad 3D skillz! Ok, slap some labels on that drawing for us retards!!

how's this....

 

[alia176]

Oooooh very nice!

Now, show us what it'd look like with the outlet of the cat already at 45* pls!!