Factory Lockers help

[NZ-CHCH-Cruiser]

well the rear locker stopped work two weeks ago. last weekend i was driving figer 8's while trying to lock and unlock it on the local river bed. No joy

new years day i unpluged it and got the multi meter out. have power going to locker motor for about 4 seconds then stops, tested front and found to be the same ( front locker works )

so ECU is fine and cableing ok to. took the plate were the lock switch is and tryed to move fork ( incase it's seized ) it moves freey.

took off cover to were the return spring and big cog is, had water in it and thats about all.

now i tryed to get motor off but had to remove rear spring so i can get to two of the screws. also i started to think that if i removed the bolt thats holds the fork in place i may neave get it back on.

my Question is.
1: can i remove the motor and still get it back together, or do i have to pull the whole diff out.

2: has any 1 put a positive air pressure into the breather pipe to stop the water

3: An how much for a replacement motor new/ second hand. [ there is not many 80s over here in the wreakers yards, so was hoping some over there could help]

Jono

 

[unwiredadventures]

well the rear locker stopped work two weeks ago. last weekend i was driving figer 8's while trying to lock and unlock it on the local river bed. No joy

I have a similar problem. My rear locker it taking a long time to activate. When it does, especially in a "slippery" situation, it makes quite a loud thunk.

One of my next projects is rebuilding the front and rear axles. Should I just replace the rear electric locker with an ARB?

 

[Japan4X4]

Stick with the Toyota system, it is a good system. Simple and robust. With a little maintenance it will function just fine.

If you need a cost on the drive motor please feel free to ask me by PM or email.

 

[acflyguy18]

Absolutely do not change from the electric lockers. They are super simple to take off and tear apart. Easy to get back to together if you pay attention when you take it apart. Very easy to get the shift fork and bolt and get them back together. I would almost guarantee that you don't need to buy a new one, just clean what you have.

On mine, one of the two brushes that the armature rotate in had broke, so I went to an alternator/starter shop and got new brushes. Had the bearing replaced and was good to go. If you need help PM me.

Dave

 

[acflyguy18]

Try these threads...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/193216-cant-get-diffs-lock.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/193216-cant-get-diffs-lock.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/search.php?searchid=3588788

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/246304-rear-e-locker-fix.html

Dave

 

[jfz80]

or this one might be a lil more comprehensive (and pics too )

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/95649-rear-e-locker-actuator-rebuild-pics.html

 

[NZ-CHCH-Cruiser]

Cheers boys i did do a search an after 8 pages i gave up read all the wrong stuff.

ill start readin up on this info and then deside on the action to take.

Japan 4x4 thank you for your offer i may take you up on it as you are closer then the boys in the states. ill PM after the read up

Jono

 

[NZ-CHCH-Cruiser]

ok now this may sound silly [if so SORRY]

am i able to make up two plates and cover the opening that are left after removing the plate with the switch and motor Assembly. so wife can still drive truck.

 

[acflyguy18]

seems like I read somewhere wear someone was had the same idea and the resounding answer was NO. I wouldn't try it if it were me.

 

[acflyguy18]

Unless you nead to replace the brushes or the bearings, it really shouldn't take all that long to get them off and serviced and back on.