So I have had intermittent center diff. problems like most everyone here. I have used the search function and read tons of postings.
My center diff is intermittent. I have been unable to find a pattern. Seems like when the truck is cold it works most of the time. When the truck is warmed up it works 25% of the time.
Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures . When it is working the light comes on instantly. When it is not working I can drive in 4l for 15min. and it still won't engage.
I took out the diff lock control relay (behind the kick panel) and it failed the continuity tests. A call to CDan and $150 it was replaced. Problem still lingers.
Paperclip vs. 4wd indicator switch = positive light. Switch removed and it failed continuity test. Cleaned the heck out of it, put it back in and it worked for awhile and then failed. Replaced the switch, c-diff worked like a charm for a day, then became intermittent.
L4 switch removed and checked and continuity is fine.
So when it is working it works fast and easy. When it is not working, nothing I do can make it work. The next step it to bust into the actuator motor, I hesitate because
A) The diff. works great when it is working
B) It seems to get better for a bit, when I mess with the electrical system
Any thoughts? Sticky actuator motor or electrical gremlin?
My center diff is intermittent. I have been unable to find a pattern. Seems like when the truck is cold it works most of the time. When the truck is warmed up it works 25% of the time.
Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures . When it is working the light comes on instantly. When it is not working I can drive in 4l for 15min. and it still won't engage.
I took out the diff lock control relay (behind the kick panel) and it failed the continuity tests. A call to CDan and $150 it was replaced. Problem still lingers.
Paperclip vs. 4wd indicator switch = positive light. Switch removed and it failed continuity test. Cleaned the heck out of it, put it back in and it worked for awhile and then failed. Replaced the switch, c-diff worked like a charm for a day, then became intermittent.
L4 switch removed and checked and continuity is fine.
So when it is working it works fast and easy. When it is not working, nothing I do can make it work. The next step it to bust into the actuator motor, I hesitate because
A) The diff. works great when it is working
B) It seems to get better for a bit, when I mess with the electrical system
Any thoughts? Sticky actuator motor or electrical gremlin?
My first test is always; does the motor run? If it runs, the problem is in the shifting side, if it doesn't then it electrical, position switch, bound motor, relay, etc.
truck.