[MIGUELBLUE]

Originally Posted by AllenTenT

Give it an intercooler and some pump tweaks and you'l be styling this may help if you dont already have it Welcome to Land Cruiser Owners On Line

Congatulations for this beautifull HDJ 80 24 Valves. You can also open a little de Turbo to 0,8 -0,9 pressure, but fit an Intercooler first and open a little the Diesel Pump. This engine with this adjustments is amazing.



Here in Spain they are a lot of them ( Model 24 Valves and Model 12 Valves ) and they do this things to have much more power and more Torque.

I buy my second 80 Series 1 year ago, one HDJ 80 ( 1-HDT 12 Valves ), personaly in my opinion is better engine than the ( 1-HDFT 24 Valves ). My first 80 Series was one FJ 80 ( 3-FE ), a great truck but without power and torque comparing with the ( 1-HDT ).

The 12 valves have much more torque in 1.000 R.P.M to 2.400 R.P.M. than the 24 valves.

My picture, first my EX- FJ 80 ( 3-FE ), second my ( 1-HDT 12 Valves )....................

Enjoy your 24 Valves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Regards

Miguel

[MIGUELBLUE]

My HDJ 80 ( 1-HDT 12 Valves )..........................



Miguel

[TeeDiggs]

Originally Posted by slow95z

why cant we have cool toys like that in the USA :(

ditto. Very nice man, highly jealous! I'm excited for you!

[MIGUELBLUE]

Hellow, because in USA don't like Diesel Engines and in Australia and Europe they like a lot. Personally i prefer the Big Petrol Engines that the big Diesel Engines. Toyota in the 80 Series make the Turbo-Diesel engines with more Torque and Performance than the Petrol engines. They are much better in my opinon.

I love my 80 Series with the 1-HDT 12 Valves engine. I fit a right side exchapement and the sound is orgasmic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Miguel

[Falco80]

I swapped a few more things over from my FZJ80 in the last few weeks. Fitted the 25 litre water bladder into the RH rear quarter panel and mounted my drawers in the rear. Makes things alot neater and it's great having 25 litres of water onboard stored out of the way. We use it for cleaning/boiling or cooling system refilling etc., as it tastes like cr*p if you drink it straight out of the bladder!
We went for a run about 150km's away today which was my first time getting this 80's feet wet. Nothing too deep, probably only about 50-60 centimetres on some crossing. It got the missus excited...and thats always better than getting them scared!
Enjoy!

[Tyler Durden]

Very nice.

[EvoE2]

Congrats... Looks awesome

Nice toys by the way

[CreeperSleeper]

Is there any more info available on that water bladder? I would love to have one of those...

[Falco80]

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

Is there any more info available on that water bladder? I would love to have one of those...

Hi Chad, the water bladder is made by Flexitank here in Australia. They are sold through ARB stores but are a bit pricey. I'm pretty sure i paid nearly $250Aus a while back. There are definately cheaper ways to carry water, but i like the fact that it uses sometimes wasted space and there is always 20-25 litres onboard in case of an emergency.

Flexitank | Pillow Tanks | ContainerPac | 4WD & SUV Vehicle Flexitanks | Inflatable Marker Buoys | Flotation Devices






What you get...

Remove useless stock "subwoofer"...

Line inside panel with marine carpet or similair...

bladder attaches using 3 screws in captive nuts under window

Ready to go.

[CreeperSleeper]

That is the coolest thing I have ever seen... I hate carrying around my water jugs in the rig, I think I need one of these!

[rove_mcanus]

Just some advice on the injection pump if you go ahead (if not already) with the mods. Just because there is an increase in performance at 1000 to 1600rpm, don't load the engine up in that range. The crank and bearings will not like it. I suspect the poor performance is part of the toyota response to failing big ends in the earlier 12 valve motors.

The ideal operating range for performance/economy is 1600 to 2600rpm. That applies to all 12/14 valve turbo and the 1hz.

I must ask too, if there is a reason for lining the rear quarter with carpet where the bladder is located?

[Falco80]

Originally Posted by rove_mcanus

Just some advice on the injection pump if you go ahead (if not already) with the mods. Just because there is an increase in performance at 1000 to 1600rpm, don't load the engine up in that range. The crank and bearings will not like it. I suspect the poor performance is part of the toyota response to failing big ends in the earlier 12 valve motors.

The ideal operating range for performance/economy is 1600 to 2600rpm. That applies to all 12/14 valve turbo and the 1hz.

I must ask too, if there is a reason for lining the rear quarter with carpet where the bladder is located?

Hi mate, i'm aware not to load the engine up too much when low in the rev range. I've heard before that it hamers the big-ends. 1600 to 2600 is definately the sweet spot though. Instant power in that range!

The reason for lining the rear quarter panel when installing the water bladder is simply to eliminate anything that could rub on the bladder. The underside of the panel cover has also been trimmed and carpet glued on that too. The bladder is made of very tough material, but i still wanted to ensure it could not get a hole worn into it anywhere!

[AllenTenT]

looking good! Really like that turbo timer may have to try and get a hold of one,, I would also like a boost guage - its on my list
I didnt notice before that you had a 5sp,, H151F I presume, do you know your diff ratios? I have noticed that your config came out with either 3.7 or 4.1 depending on country,,, also how do you like the bighorns? Im about to put them on, how do they affect your consumption,, Currently I am running 33"s lift and bar and also average about 11l/100km I have a big intercooler though. I know that sound of spool up and big exhaust !!

Cheers

[Falco80]

Originally Posted by AllenTenT

looking good! Really like that turbo timer may have to try and get a hold of one,, I would also like a boost guage - its on my list
I didnt notice before that you had a 5sp,, H151F I presume, do you know your diff ratios? I have noticed that your config came out with either 3.7 or 4.1 depending on country,,, also how do you like the bighorns? Im about to put them on, how do they affect your consumption,, Currently I am running 33"s lift and bar and also average about 11l/100km I have a big intercooler though. I know that sound of spool up and big exhaust !!

Cheers

Cheers bud, yeah it's a H151F with 4.1's in the diffs. The bighorns have been great. Had them nearly two years now and they haven't let me down. They are noisy on the highway, but thats too be expected. They have affected my fuel consumption slightly, though not as much as they did when i originally had them on my petrol 80.

Are you running a front-mount air-air cooler or a barrel type water-air setup? Going by your sig it sounds like a good setup.

[AllenTenT]

Dan
I am running a front mount air air IC its from Maartens in holland steel pipes.. great kit but pricey,,it fits like factory...
Im also on 4.1 diffs combined with H151F it allows for bigger wheels Im keen on the 315's as they would give me lower top end revs. Ultimatly the H151F needs a better 5th gear.
How are the bighorns wearing so far and how are they at top speed I only go about 120kph max

Thanks

[vladi80]

awesome pictures

[Falco80]

Originally Posted by AllenTenT

Dan
I am running a front mount air air IC its from Maartens in holland steel pipes.. great kit but pricey,,it fits like factory...
Im also on 4.1 diffs combined with H151F it allows for bigger wheels Im keen on the 315's as they would give me lower top end revs. Ultimatly the H151F needs a better 5th gear.
How are the bighorns wearing so far and how are they at top speed I only go about 120kph max

Thanks

Hi AllenTenT, the Bighorns are wearing quite well. I have five of them and rotate them around every 5000km's. In reality they spend 90% of their life on the tarmac, but when offroad they perform well and are a good compromise. I only really top out at 120kph as well, and at 100kph the 1HD-FT is spinning at 2400rpm which is fine by me.

I had a spare afternoon over the weekend so i swapped my rear wheel carrier over. It's not the best design if you are going to be hopping over rocks, but it's built to be bombproof and can handle up to a 35" tyre easily. The numberplate mount hangs down low and i'm not a big fan of it, but it can handle corrugations well and i paid for it so i may as well keep it instead of giving it awy when my other 80 sells!

[Falco80]

I had been suspect of my oil-pressure gauge ever since i bought this cruiser. It's needle always sat a lot lower than on my previous 1FZ 80. When sitting at idle, after a long run on the highway, the needle would be sit on the bottom line. I tried not to look at it, but it always bugged me that it read so damn low. I always felt the oil pressure was ok though and just dismissed it as a typical factory Toyota vague gauge - or maybe it was a diesel thing. I now know that others report similair readings from their diesel 80 dash gauge as well.

Anyhoo, i always wanted an aftermarket oil-pressure gauge to keep tabs on the engine and also to hopefully catch any oil system related problems before it got too expensive. I've always been a fan of full-sweep gauges as it enables a more accurate reading. Searching around for a 270 deg sweep electric gauge gives you a lot of expensive answers! All the mainstream electric oil-pressure gauges seem to be 90 deg sweep. I started searching international and came across eGauges.com from over there where most of you guys are! I love the Isspro range of gauges and found this full-sweep electric oil-pressure gauge. All up it cost me about $125 Aus delivered to my door bu USPS, which i was stoked about. A similair gauge from other brands here in oz were between $300-$400! When i opened the box my first impression was this is a quality product. Very easy to wire up and it looks great. I will not hesitate to buy more gauges from these guys in the future. I got some fittings from the local Pirtek and teed it into where my existing sender is. I replaced the original factory sender with a new one and am now running both senders to keep the factory dash gauge working. Too say it was i tight fit for both senders would be an understatement! The new sender for the factory gauge didn't end up changing the dash reading at all in the end.
The new gauge works awesome though and just after a quick run tonight i was seeing oil pressure in the range of 15-20 psi at idle, all the way up to 80 psi.

For the moment I've mounted it next to my VDO EGT gauge with a couple of zip-ties, until i get around to mounting it on the pillar. I'll eventually get some red covers for the bulbs too so it illuminates red.













I also got my main muffler cut out last week and had it replaced with straight pipe. Oh yeah, the 3" mandrel-bent system sounds like it should now!

[Tapage]

I have the same gauge .. really nice one ( the ilumination it's awesome )

[AJLFJ80]

That thing is butt ugly and in rough shape...you should really sell it to me so I can take that mess off your hands, I'll be doing you a favor.

[crowdaddy911]

that rig just got me sick to my stomach. I know my rig needs some work but that thing is beautiful. Fffn Deisel to boot. Wowwww enjoy that.

[Scalci]

Falco80, I like your carperts in your new LC, do you know if they are sold in Aus somewere that I could import them to South Africa?

[PKP80]

I"m drooling, right now

[Scalci]

It seems like the Flexitank web site does not work :( I would love some of those water bladders ....

[Clint79]

Nice score mate
For a diesel cruiser, id have to say the best combod cruiser made all the goodies

[Dutchie]

Very nice car, wish mine was 5 years younger ! But for gauges I still prefer my setup with the Madman EMS2... (sorry)

[Falco80]

Picked up this 30L aluminium water tank of outerlimits recently. This good bloke was selling it due to having sliders fitted to his winch-challenge competing beast of an 80. It's a TJM model and bolts directly under the passenger side between the chassis rail and sidestep. It uses two captive nuts on the chassis rail already and you have to drill a hole for the rear mounting bolt. The front of the tank has two bolt holes and i'm going to hook them up soon. You fill it from the LH front wheel arch and the tap is at the back. There is also a breather hose on the top. These things are priced around $700 from ARB here in Australia so i'm stoked i nabbed this one. The radius arm mounts still sit lower than the tank so it tucks up pretty well. It makes great use of otherwise wasted space....

[murf]

I can relate, I did the same upgrade from a 92 to a boosted 96. What a difference - congrats on your nice rig and the upgrades your doing.