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09-28-08, 09:00 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 237
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Today, I learned ________ about my 80....
Today - I took off the PS rear door panel (to trouble shoot the window not going down) and found a little surprise!
Apparently, the PO has lined under all the door panels with DYNAMAX XTREME . This stuff looks like Aluminum Foil with tar on one side. The door is completely covered.
What should I do about this? This stuff is HARD to peel back and I am not sure where the electric motor is for the window. I don;t want to start cutting it out searching.
Your help is appreciated about the Dynamax or the window motor!
John
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09-28-08, 09:48 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: So Cal
Posts: 152
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Isn't Dynamax expensive? You must have a nice stereo system.
Unfortunately, I don't know where the motor is at.
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My FZJ80 Mods Pictionary
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09-28-08, 10:08 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 237
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I dunno about Dynamax. The only thing I do know is it's sticky as hell! I guess that, coupled with the way the stereo was out and wires left - someone must have had a nice system in there at one point. Guess that's why the interior looks so good and it was probably hardly wheeled - if anything it was light wheelin! Too much stereo to bang around on the rocks.....
I would hate to take the stuff out, it's a good insulator and sound deadening material i gather.
John
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09-28-08, 10:17 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: the CV; sometimes NZ, sometimes CZ (go fotbalového klubu Bohemians)
Posts: 316
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09-28-08, 11:39 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 237
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Great article!! Thanks for the tip, I added it to my favorites!! I don't hear the window motor or regulator moving at all when I do the switch. I took off the front DS main switch assembly, and all looked good.
I guess I will have to try thi, but again - not knowing where the window motor is I may have to price out the Dynamax stuff to replace the stuff I take off. I would hate to have one door without and noisy and the rest quiet and with Dynamax.
John
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09-29-08, 08:10 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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ONSC triad VP
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NC
Posts: 2,587
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Sorry i cant help w/ the motor locale. You can buy the Dynamat stuff directly or from your local stereo haus. Even Circuit City has single rolls available as well as trunk kits, door kits, floor kits, etc. I think 18 x 30 is the smallest piece you can get individually. Its on my list to add......but to the floors only.
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09-29-08, 08:40 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Leesport, PA
Posts: 543
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The inner door panel should have service holes in it, holes where you can service the window regulator and motor. Is the dynamat covering all of the service holes? Are they solid pieces or did they make false panels that screw in? If they just laid the dynamat over the holes, you should be able to feel where the holes are (no metal behind it) and cut through the dynamat with a utility knife. I have a ton of pics of my front door soundproofing project that might help you beter understand what you're looking at. Let me know if you want me to post them.
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And a silly little VW TDI Jetta Wagon that does 50mpg
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09-29-08, 08:44 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Leesport, PA
Posts: 543
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oh, and yes the dynamat will be next to impossible to get off, and will leave all kinds of black adhesive behind. Better off trying to get into the service holes without taking off all of it IMO. If you do go to replace some or all of the dynamat, take a look at raamat RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening
It's every bit as good as dynamat and cheaper. Also, the foil backing won't cut you like some of the dynamat varieties can. Someone did a very exhaustive sound deadening review and this came out on top all things considered. I have been very impressed with it myself.
__________________
94 LC, 110K, FOR 3" lift, Nitto TG 315's
88 Mini truck, SAS'ed
86 LC, 150K, OME Medium, ARB front, custom rear bumper, Warn 8274, BFG 33" Muds - back to shmukster
And a silly little VW TDI Jetta Wagon that does 50mpg
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09-29-08, 09:30 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfz80
Its on my list to add......but to the floors only.
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Any reason for floors only?
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Adam - 96 LC
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09-29-08, 11:46 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: the CV; sometimes NZ, sometimes CZ (go fotbalového klubu Bohemians)
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUV24BY
Great article!! Thanks for the tip, I added it to my favorites!! I don't hear the window motor or regulator moving at all when I do the switch. I took off the front DS main switch assembly, and all looked good.
I guess I will have to try thi, but again - not knowing where the window motor is I may have to price out the Dynamax stuff to replace the stuff I take off. I would hate to have one door without and noisy and the rest quiet and with Dynamax.
John
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I had a similar prob with the passenger side window. From the driver's control, it sometimes wouldn't do anything. Luckily, I had an extra passenger window switch. I swapped it out. The driver's master was fine, it was the passenger switch which turned out to be bad.
I believe the window motor is in the area just above the door speaker. If you look closely at photo #DSC03422 in the link, you will see there are three bolts which form a triangle above the speaker. IIRC, these three bolts secure the window motor.
Best of luck. It's always a lot of fun tearing into a door panel. Whenever I have to go where no other has gone before, I secretly hope I'll find money or gold - but it never happens.
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