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Old 09-26-08, 10:39 PM   #1
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Warning lights still there...help.

I was having warning light issues with my 92. I read several threads and they all pointed me to replacing my alternator.
I replaced my alt. with a new one from Toyota. My LC still does the same thing as before. No change at all.
I'm gonna get my battery checked tomorrow and see if it's that. I just had this battery replaced about a month ago. I have a die hard gold....if that helps?... This will indeed be my 3rd battery.

I did have my previous alt. tested at two different locations and they said it was dead. But with the new one installed, my voltage is at about 12.71.... I know that's really low. My lights usually come on when I come to a complete stop, and sometimes the engine cuts off. Could it be that I got a bad reman. alt from toyota? Could it be that I got my belts on wrong? I do have the FSM, but couldn't find a page that said where the location of the belts are.
I checked all connections and ground wires, they all seem to be fine. I think if it is the alt., I'm gonna have a heck of a time trying to get toyota to warranty it.
Any more ideas?


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Old 09-27-08, 09:13 AM   #2
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help.


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Old 09-27-08, 09:22 AM   #3
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OEM belts can only go on one way. It's possible that your new alt is bad, but the law of averages points to another problem within the charging circuit. Possibly bad cables/corroded connections between the alt/fusible links/battery. I would assume you went over these connection points closely while replacing batteries and alternators, but it sounds like you need to spend some quality time with the FSM and a meter. The FSM gives step by step instructions, where and how to check, etc.


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Old 09-27-08, 12:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonheld View Post
OEM belts can only go on one way. It's possible that your new alt is bad, but the law of averages points to another problem within the charging circuit. Possibly bad cables/corroded connections between the alt/fusible links/battery. I would assume you went over these connection points closely while replacing batteries and alternators, but it sounds like you need to spend some quality time with the FSM and a meter. The FSM gives step by step instructions, where and how to check, etc.
I will spend more time looking at the FSM and do some more quality trouble shooting.

Question 1: I'm using Gates belts. Could that be the problem? I wouldn't think so, but just curious.

Question2: On the fan pulley, do both slots get used?

Does my belt locations look okay?
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Old 09-27-08, 09:44 PM   #5
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Correct. Inner pulley of water pump and inner pulley of alternator get driven by the middle pulley of crank. Outer crank pulley drives PS pump, smog pump, and slightly rides in the outer pulley of alternator as a guide.

Gates makes good belts. I doubt that's the problem. I assume you've checked tension on the main alternator belt.


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Old 09-28-08, 09:07 AM   #6
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Update.

Now,
My charging system seems to be working. I get about a 13.8 volts reading without any accessories running. With the headlights and others on, it drops a little.
The warning lights no longer come on, but it still hesitates a little bit at complete stops.

Was it that I didn't wait long enough? Is there a break in period?

We'll see about today. I'll see if the readings are still the same.

I will update more later.
Thanks.

lispeej


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Old 09-28-08, 09:50 AM   #7
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Alternators do not break in. Either your battery was very low and the new alternator finally charged it up or you have a bad wire/connection (as previously mentioned) that decided to work correctly. If the voltage just came up to 13+ overnight, then it would point to a bad wire. Check your wires by finding where it starts and terminates. Put your voltage meter on each end and see if there is a voltage drop between the two points. More than .5 volts would be concern. Should be real low on short wire runs.


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Old 09-28-08, 11:40 AM   #8
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There are 3 fuse links that are right off the battery + terminal. The charge/dis-charge current goes thru the MAIN fuse link. Check these fuse links for kinks and burns in the wire(s) and corrosion of terminals. Fuse links are cheap and replacing them good insurance. Worn out fuse links a major electrical PITA on these trucks.

Off the negative battery post is a black ~#10 wire that connects to the left fender; check this for corrosion. Check the grounding strap at the rear of the engine to the firewall.

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Old 09-28-08, 12:02 PM   #9
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I would get the battery load tested and check all the wiring in the charging circuit.

Vehicles do weird things when a battery is going dead.
Also clean up the battery and alternator connections.


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Old 09-28-08, 06:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lispeej View Post
Now,
I get about a 13.8 volts reading without any accessories running.
That is low. It should be 14 and change across the battery terminals with the motor running. Motor off should drop to 12.8 or so.


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Old 09-29-08, 07:05 PM   #11
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I am currently running at 14.01 when egine is on, and 12.75 or so with engine off.
I did look at the fusible links. The reading off them are a bit different. At one of the link, I had a 13.99. Are they easily replaced? I might consider doing them for extra insurance.
I do agree that maybe my battery had to be charged up to normal. Maybe afterall, my alternator is good. Has anyone done these fusible links before?

Thanks for all the recommendations so far. Every little bit help.


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Old 09-29-08, 09:34 PM   #12
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Put your battery on a trickle charge overnight or take it somewhere that can do a quick charge.

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