Number of questions starting with an oil change

[farrk007]

please folks help;
Im changing my oil for the fall and i need some tips on what type of oil to use.
I tend to always add Lucas oil into any oil that goes in my cars so i'll be doing that here as well.... she's not my primary vehicle now but will be when the weather gets cold,mileage is around 180K
I also want to know what brand of filter is good to use both for the oil and the fuel?
Is there a DIY site relationg to the 80's at all?
Thanks

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by farrk007

Is there a DIY site relationg to the 80's at all?

This site is the best source of DIY information, at least for US 80-Series vehicles. There are some good OZ sites but I am not familiar with them.

-B-

[voorland80]

IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - FAQ for 80/LX450 - July 24, 2008 - Added LSPV Modification

[CJF]

Search function's broken I guess...

[farrk007]

Originally Posted by CJF

Search function's broken I guess...

I actually serched....read a bunch of material on what oil to use...but please dont laugh!! this would be my fisrt time going the DIY'er route...
And i didnt see/read anything on the fuel pump in that link.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by farrk007

And i didnt see/read anything on the fuel pump in that link.

What engine and year are we talking about?

The fuel pump is in the tank and should only be replaced if you suspect it is failing.

I am assuming you are talking about the fuel filter. On the FZJ80 (not sure on the FJ80) there is a "sock" type of filter in the tank but it should last a very long time unless you suspect some debris in the fuel. It can be replaced when needed.

The traditional fuel filter is located on the frame underneath the intake and is in a difficult to reach location. The good news is that it is not a "routine" replacement item. Basically, you don't need to replace it unless you suspect there is a fuel delivery problem, usually seen as intermittent stalling at idle or low speeds and on steep inclines. Of course, you would replace it if you suspected debris in the fuel system.

In summary, leave both fuel filters alone unless you think you have a problem. If you *do* think you have a problem then post up the detailed symptoms and let us start our 50-questions and 50-wild-assed-guesses. We get our amusement from those threads.

-B-

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by farrk007

.but please dont laugh!! this would be my fisrt time going the DIY'er route...

Since this is your first DIY project and you are starting with an oil change, I will give my suggestions. The assumption is that you have little knowledge and are not afraid of investing in tools and equipment to do some maintenance yourself.


LOF (Lube, Oil, and Filter)
====================

The 1FZ-FE engine uses 8qts of oil, has a spin-on cartridge filter, and has 2 drive shafts with 3 grease zirks on each shaft.

Lubricants and parts needed
=====================
8 qts of premium oil. Factory spec is 5w30. Many of us use M1 synthetic. If this is a new-to-you truck then start with a good conventional oil like Delo in the recommended weight. If you want to become an expert on engine lubrication then read the FAQ discussions on engine oil.
1 spin-on oil filter. Get a premium brand, preferably Toyota. Many of us like the 90915-20004 filters that you can get from Cruiserdan. Stay away from Fram.
1 oil pan drain plug gasket (order 1ea per filter when you get your filters from Cruiserdan).
Tube of premium HD (wheel bearing) grease

Tools
=====
12mm 6-pt socket or boxed-end wrench (to remove the drain plug)
3/8" breaker bar
Oil funnel (nice to have when filling )
Shop towels
Latex work gloves if you have them
Can of brake cleaner if you have it
Appropriate bucket or oil catch can
Grease gun


Move the vehicle to the work area. You should be able to get under the truck without raising it on jack stands or on ramps. If you are at stock height and you are a big fella, then you may need ramps. If you need to get it in the air then be safe and ask questions. We will assume you are leaving it on all 4 wheels.

I like to spread out an old throw rug or something like that under the truck because I usually make a mess and I don't like oil on my garage floor.

Skip ahead to step #6 now while the engine is cooling down. After the engine is cool, start at step #1.

LOF Steps
========
1. Raise the bonnet and start looking for the oil filter. On the 1FZ-FE it is on the left side of the engine, underneath the PS reservoir.
2. Position the oil catch can underneath the oil filter. Position a shop towel on top of the axle housing, directly underneath the oil filter.
3. From the engine bay, reach down with your hand, grasp the filter firmly, and turn it counter-clockwise. With any luck and some strength, it should come loose. If it doesn't then clean it off with the shop towels and brake cleaner so you can get a better grip. Use sandpaper if you have it.
4. When the filter is loose, some oil will begin dripping down on the axle housing and splatter everywhere. If you got the shop towel in the right place the splatter will be manageable. Quickly unscrew the oil filter and turn it right-side up to minimize oil spillage. Some guys use a plastic sack to make this a little less messy. Snake the oil filter out from above and place it upside down in the oil catch can.
5. Using a light source, inspect the engine block to be sure the gasket is not left stuck to the engine. Use a shop towel to clean the area where the new oil filter will mount.
6. Ingest a cold premium beer.
7. Examine your new 90915-20004 oil filter. You will see a rubber seal that is on the top. Take a couple of drops of fresh oil or clean grease and pre-lube the seal. Read the installation instructions. It probably says to turn 3/4-turn after the seal makes contact. Install the oil filter, taking care not to crank it down too tight. Follow the instructions that came with your oil filter.
8. Grab your 12mm socket and breaker and crawl under the truck and slide the oil catch can underneath the oil pan drain plug.
9. Loosen the drain plug and let the 8qts drain into the catch can. After all the oil is drained, clean and inspect the drain plug area, use a new plug gasket, and install the drain plug. Torque to about 18 ft/lbs. Since you probably don't have a torque wrench, this will be "snug" but don't reef on that plug. It just needs to make a good seal; it isn't clamping down some important brake components.
10. Clean up under the truck and remove the oil catch can.
11. Remove the oil cap, insert the funnel, and pour in 7 qts of your oil. Check the dipstick level. It should be about 1qt low. I always add 8qts but the proper way is to add until the dipstick is indicating full, tested after you start the engine and remeasure.
12. Remove the funnel and replace the oil cap.
13. Start the engine, watch for the oil pressure to indicate normal pressure (takes about 5 secs), inspect for any leaks, watch for oil level lamp, shut off engine, and recheck the oil level.

Lube
14. Using a good HD grease, crawl under the truck and look for the grease zerk on the front DS, diff side U-joint. You may have to move the truck or the DS to position the zerks correctly. All 3 will line up at the same time. Squirt grease in the zerk until you hear a "crack" or "pop" as the old grease breaks the seal loose and starts oozing out. Stop and go to the next U-joint. Repeat. Locate the slip joint zerk and squirt grease until you see the joint move about 1/2", then stop. Repeat with the other drive shaft. Clean up excess grease with shop towels and brake cleaner. If you don't, the DS will sling it onto your muffler and you will smell burning grease for a week and your wife will think you've screwed the pooch with your DIY LOF.
15. Repeat step 6.

Probably forgot something in there and others will have some time saving tips that I either forgot or don't know about.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your first project.



-B-

[farrk007]

I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH BEOWOLF!!! MANY ,MANY THANX!!!

[Cruiserdrew]

I agree with Beo's step by step, except the 80 stock drain plug is not magnetic, so forget about shavings.

I would recommend you NOT use 5w-30, but instead use Mobil1 0w-40 based on multiple oil analysis posted here. Rotella Syn 5w-40 is another good choice. If you live in a nice climate and you're low on funds, use Delo 15w-40 which is great oil for a conventional and $11 per gallon. Don't add any Lucas. It's a total waste and adds nothing except uncertainty.

Don't drink any beer until the entire job is completed, and the vehicle test driven to verify adequate oil pressure and it's after 5pm.

Don't mess with the fuel pump or the fuel filter unless there is a reason to do this. If changing oil is a big deal, you don't want to mess with the fuel filter, trust me.

Regarding the slip joint in the driveshafts....if you see the shaft expand, that's too much grease by a good bit. That can lead to vibes and excess wear on the t-case output bearings. 2 squirts and no more. If you want to lube it right, pull the shaft, separate the splines and grease the splines directly.

If this is a new truck to you, I would strongly recommend you baseline the entire truck, not just the engine oil. But on the day you do the engine oil, change the t-case oil. That's the hardest working oil on the whole truck. Plus, gear oil smells really nice and your wife will like you covered with it.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by farrk007

I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH BEOWOLF!!! MANY ,MANY THANX!!!

It is Beowulf.

-B-

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

It is Beowulf.

-B-

Wouldn't it be easier to call you the Bee Hunter from now on?

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I agree with Beo's step by step, except the 80 stock drain plug is not magnetic, so forget about shavings.

I would recommend you NOT use 5w-30, but instead use Mobil1 0w-40 based on multiple oil analysis posted here.

Thanks Andy,
I guess I was thinking of the diff drain plugs being magnetic. Forgot about the oil plug.... Post edited.

As for the oil recommendation, I suggested the factory specs until he can make an informed decision on alternatives. My truck sucks down the 0w40-M1 at the rate of about 1qt/1000 miles. Sometimes more. Heavier weights of M1 did a little bit better but I still didn't like the consumption rate.

This change I am using Rotella full Syn 15w40 ( IIRC) and it seems to be back to normal consumption. Many others have noticed exceptionally high consumption with the M1 0w40.

-B-

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Wouldn't it be easier to call you the Bee Hunter from now on?

For the life of me, I cannot understand how people can misspell something that is RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF THEM when they type the message. Its not like they have to use a dictionary or something. It is on the left side of every post!

<======= See! Look over there! IT IS Beowulf

sheesh.

-B-

[NLXTACY]

I think this is what they see

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Thanks Andy,
I guess I was thinking of the diff drain plugs being magnetic. Forgot about the oil plug.... Post edited.

As for the oil recommendation, I suggested the factory specs until he can make an informed decision on alternatives. My truck sucks down the 0w40-M1 at the rate of about 1qt/1000 miles. Sometimes more. Heavier weights of M1 did a little bit better but I still didn't like the consumption rate.

This change I am using Rotella full Syn 15w40 ( IIRC) and it seems to be back to normal consumption. Many others have noticed exceptionally high consumption with the M1 0w40.

-B-

I have seen a few people say they use Mobil10w-40 with consumption issues, but that has not been my experience. I like it in the winter and have no issues with it. This summer I've run Mobil1 10w-40 High Mileage and I like it. Oil pressure is as high as I see with 15w-50 and the truck has not burned a drop I can detect in 3500 miles. I just don't have any analysis numbers to back it up.

0w-40 has had numerous analysis runs posted with really exceptional results, hence the recommendation. Even 15w-50 has had a few analysis results posted and it does a great job despite the lack of a factory recommendation. The 0w-40 will work in every climate in all of NA where as the 15w-50 might cause winter starting issues in a cold place like Fairbanks, AK for example.

Now if I had a new to me truck with no knowledge of maintenance history, I'd run The Delo for at lest the first run to make sure the motor did not use a lot of oil, and to do a rapid cycle change to clean it out a bit, plus it's excellent stuff with near synthetic performance for small $$.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I think this is what they see

-B-

[Rudical]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

For the life of me, I cannot understand how people can misspell something that is RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF THEM when they type the message. Its not like they have to use a dictionary or something. It is on the left side of every post!

<======= See! Look over there! IT IS Beowulf

sheesh.

-B-

sheesh,

and to think you were making fun of mine and Rory's name's getting mixed up. Look who is sensitive about if now !

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by Rudical

Look who is sensitive about if now

There is some type of conspiracy going on, I'm just not sure of the details. I think Romer gives $20 to every new member that will spell my name wrong and get me riled up. Lemme know if he contacts you Rory.

-B-

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

There is some type of conspiracy going on, I'm just not sure of the details. I think Romer gives $20 to every new member that will spell my name wrong and get me riled up. Lemme know if he contacts you Rory.

-B-

Chat

PS I only got $10 and so have not mispelled it yet.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Chat

Agreed. And since we don't know where this spelling challenged member lives and what year and engine he is asking about, this whole thread could be CHAT because the oil & filter and fuel pump and fuel filter recommendations are probably wrong advice for those with diesel engines.

-B-

[Brentbba]

Relax Beowulf, you've got company...Cruiserdrew thinks my name is spelled Brett. and he's dun ben ediacated thro them thar 7th grad!

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Brentbba

Relax Beowulf, you've got company...Cruiserdrew thinks my name is spelled Brett. and he's dun ben ediacated thro them thar 7th grad!

Brentt-I was not me he was referring to as being spelling challenged, even though I am , and also a master of fat fingered typing. I think is was Farrk007 that gets the spelling bee honorable mention.

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by Brentbba

Relax Beowulf,

OK Brendt, I'm much calmer today.

-B-

[Brentbba]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

OK Brendt, I'm much calmer today.

-B-

Such a comedian!