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Old 09-22-08, 11:53 PM   #1
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35'' tiers without suspention lift?

Hi everybody, im new here and i would like to thank you for preciose info here
Im from Georgia Eastern Europe and got HDJ80 which I buy 2 weeks ago,
i would like to ask you if i can put 35''/10.5 tiers on a 3'' body lift only and do i need wheel spacers for 10.5 wide tires?.
can i lift suspension without changing cardans( just to installe spring and shoks for 1'' susp lift?
thank you and sorry for my poor english.
here is
94 toy-lc 4.2 diesel, automatic, 3 diff-lock.
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Old 09-23-08, 12:09 AM   #2
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There are lots and lots of posts lately on lifts, so a bit of searching (or even reading the first two pages) will probably answer most/all of your questions.

First off, 35's will fit with no lift. You just will not get any flex.

35's will fit with a 2" to 2.5" (IE: OME Medium) lift, but you will get a fair amount of rubbing.

I am running the OME Medium (2" front, 2.5" rear) lift, and a 1" body lift. I get extremely slight rubbing in the rear.

I would not recommend lifting the body more than 2".

You can do a suspension lift up to approx 2" to 2.5" before it's ideal to switch to a DC shaft (roughly 3" of lift seems to be the cut off, but it will be a bit different for every rig).


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Old 09-23-08, 09:19 AM   #3
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I second the advice for 2.5'' suspension (whatever flavor is available in your market) and only 1'' body lift. I think you could fit the tall and skinnies then. You could opt for wheel spacers or new wheels w/ more backspacing. Welcome to the Mud.


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Old 09-24-08, 04:20 AM   #4
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there is no any distributor of lift kit for toy-lc here, and thats why im trying to lift body myself. otherwise i have to order it from europe and the cost of shiping is higher then lift kit price.
I was looking at 295/75/16 hankook tiers on forum and they are fitting without any lifting, and they are 33.4 not very big difference between 35" so i think I will try them, but i have a question
do i have to re gear if the tires are 33.4" ? i know that re gearing beguins after 33" .......
Thank you once again for your helpful suggestions.
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Old 09-24-08, 06:13 AM   #5
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A 35/10.5 may fit with a 2" body lift, it depends on the offset of the wheel. You have aftermarket wheels on there so you will have to inspect first. I ran skinny 36/12.5 on mine with the 2 - 3" lift and the bump stops dropped 2" w/o zero rubbing, this was with stock wheels.


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Old 09-24-08, 07:18 AM   #6
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regearing depends on your terrain and personal opinion. for the hancoocks (33.4) youd be fine to stay w/ stock gears.


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Old 09-24-08, 12:37 PM   #7
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I use 295/75R16 Nittos for the street at 5000+ feet elevation with stock gears and it is OK. My 35's don't pull bad either, but I can definately notice a power drop.

I have done many body lifts on many vehicles, and when you get to 3", a lot of modifications have to be done.

I would rather see you make some coil spring spacers first before a body lift, but a 1" or 2" would be fine.


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Old 09-24-08, 12:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeman View Post
I use 295/75R16 Nittos for the street at 5000+ feet elevation with stock gears and it is OK. My 35's don't pull bad either, but I can definately notice a power drop.
I was actually surprised at how well my truck still pulled with stock gears and 35's.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeman View Post
I have done many body lifts on many vehicles, and when you get to 3", a lot of modifications have to be done.

I would rather see you make some coil spring spacers first before a body lift, but a 1" or 2" would be fine.
When I was researching spring spacers VS body lift, I decided to do the body lift due to some issues that I'd read about with spring spacers.

One is that spacers increase the length of the spring without adjusting the rate. In some cases this can cause undesirable behaviour/handling.

Another is that if you want to stay below 3" in your suspension lift (to avoid possibly needing to go to a DC shaft, having lots of caster issues, etc), then a spacer doesn't help you at all.

Man-a-Fre has some very nice 30 mm spacers if you want to go that route. I have a set sitting in my garage that I may throw on my truck to see how it handles, but I won't do that until I purchase some of the other equipment (IE: adjustable panhard's, extend my lower rear control arms, etc) and fix my caster.


x2 on staying at 1 or 2 inches on the body lift. A body lift is about as easy as it gets, but at 3" you'll start having some interference issues (such as the steering wheel column). Regardless of the lift size you will need to deal with the clutch fan hitting the fan shroud. I dropped my radiator by trimming the bushings, which works (though the fan is still slightly off center). Pulling the mounts and redrilling would be a better solution, or fabbing up some brackets to extend it.


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Old 11-04-08, 03:16 AM   #9
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Thank you all for youre help, I am sorry for late respons.
I was reading several posts and tons of pages about lifting, and now i have some more questions.
My objectif is to have maximum clearence without modification of stock DC, and other parts, I was thinking to order 2.5 Ome lift kit 850 front/860 rear (i have dual batteries and factory winch+diesel no load on the back) maybe with spacers. But one question is distrubing me..I saw last time on OME web site the front Ome springs (OME 418front/860rear) 418COMPETITION SPRINGS can i install them with 2.5" caster kit and steering dumper only, they are 10mm=0.4inch longer then ome850.
Before i was thinkig to do susp lift 2.5"+1"body lift but if a can install 35" without big rubbing on 3inch suspention lift i will not do with body lift no more. One problem is this spring rate in front but i think to install arb bumper and i already have factory winch+dual batteries.
I would like to ask you what do you think about this set of springsOME 418 in front and 860 and if anybody run it already?
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Old 11-04-08, 12:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otka View Post
Before i was thinkig to do susp lift 2.5"+1"body lift but if a can install 35" without big rubbing on 3inch suspention lift i will not do with body lift no more. One problem is this spring rate in front but i think to install arb bumper and i already have factory winch+dual batteries.
I would like to ask you what do you think about this set of springsOME 418 in front and 860 and if anybody run it already?
Some people start running into problems at 3".

For example, TOY350 has an inch higher than me all around (suspension lift wise). He's running J springs, but is armored where I am not (hence why he's only 1" higher). He's at 3" front, and 3.5" rear. He had to go with a DC DS and Landtank's plates to correct caster and driveline vibes.

The OME medium (once settled/broke in) should net you around 2" of lift based on a stock truck (sans factory winch). With your winch and dual batteries heavies might be a better solution in the front to keep the lift close to 2".


Anyway, if you net 3" of lift in the front going to plates and a DC DS will likely be the best way to do it. You might avoid that by going with caster correcting bushings, but your caster will almost definatly be out of spec and the truck won't handle the way it should.

Additionally, the higher you go (suspension lift wise) the more other adjustments are really needed. Extending the rear lower control arms, adjustable/extended panhard rod's, (possibly) sway bar extensions), bump stop extensions, etc.

With a 2"/2.5" lift I did not have to adjust a lot of stuff, bumpstops and swaybars are staying the same. I will at some point extend my rear lower control arms and put in some adjustable panhard rod's to bring the axles back in alignment. The rear lower control arm's aren't needed at all (even with the axle slightly further forward than stock there's no rubbing on the front), but as I'm going to armor them I figure I'll extend them at the same time. The panhard rod's are a bit more important to bring the axles back in line, but they are hardly off, so it's not a huge priority for me.


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'96 LX450 - Mine!
Triple locked, 315 General Grabber AT2, OME Medium, 1" body lift, belly skid plate, grey wire mod.


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(A wholely owned subsiderary of OR/CA TACO)
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Old 11-04-08, 10:31 PM   #11
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Ebag333
Congratulations for a new president!! and thank you again,
I think ill go with 850f/860r and if it will be compressed i will add some spacers in front to maintain 2''-2.5''lift in a front. I dont want to modify Dc and other drivline components.
i would like to install 33.4 '' tires and i think i will be ok with this lift, if i decide to run higher wheels ill make a one inch body lift after and thats it.
Thanks
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