FSM in the mail, got some questions about lockers

[acflyguy18]

Have read many of the lockers post and thanks to them finally got the CDL and ABS lights to come and Center Diff locked properly.

However, when I go to either selection RR or FR/RR, I hear the relay switch notorious click on the passenger side but never hear the motor.

Have done lap after lap and figure 8's both forward and back, over bumps etc, but never hear the motor. I need to test the wiring going into the actuator before I remove it, and don't really understand how to properly do that. Still learning the electrical side of DIY.

I have seen posts referring to checking voltage and/or ohms, but not sure how to do it properly or what I am looking for. Still waiting on my FSM from Toyota.

If any one can help me out I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Dave

[CJF]

What are the lights doing?

[acflyguy18]

sorry, the front and rear indicators are just flashing. the ABS and Center Diff Lock lights are solid indicating that all is good there.

Since buying the truck they have never gone steady to indicate lock up.

Dave

[Ebag333]

So you hear the click inside the cab, but not from the motors themselves? (Should be two separate clicks.)

You may need to have someone be outside the truck listening carefully for it.


Also, you can try jumping the motors with a 12v battery to see if they'll engage manually.

[acflyguy18]

Ya I hear the click inside the cab, and have had someone outside to listen but no click both front and rear. I know they maybe just stuck but am not sure cause not hearing the motor trying to run,

Also, all wires are present and in good shape, but don't know how to jump the actuator like you were saying. Still learning how to do electrical stuff. If you can give me a quick rundown I would appreciate it.

*** On a side note, cool to see you are from Oregon, I am from near Eugene, (not a hippie), although I am stationed in Jacksonville Florida. ***

Thanks,
Dave

[tblume]

hey dave, also not a , close to the Eug and run there about once a week if/when you make it home you wanna GTG and hoist a brew and talk some LC trash.

I think there are a bunch of posts here about sticky actuators for the Elockers, just keep trying and they ought to free up eventually, mine did after I plugged in the dial the PO left unhooked and tried them out a couple times in the loose gravel.

[acflyguy18]

Tblume we'll see what we can do. I have read a ton of the previous posts and just don't know how to do the electrical check on the wires to make sure power is getting to the actuator. Wanna do that before I pull the actuators. I'm just and idiot and still learning electrical.

[Tools R Us]

Originally Posted by acflyguy18

Ya I hear the click inside the cab, and have had someone outside to listen but no click both front and rear. I know they maybe just stuck but am not sure cause not hearing the motor trying to run,

...
Thanks,
Dave

When you get the click inside and no motor running outside, it's not a good idea IMHO to keep trying to run them. It could be a few issues, but the one of concern is the motor being bound up. If the motor is bound and power is applied, the armature can be destroyed, been there, passed on the t-shirt.

The circuit is kinda complected, the ground that triggers the motor relay comes from the contact plate position switch in the actuator. If the motor binds when not in the locked or unlocked position, anytime the key is on, power will be applied trying to move motor into one of those positions, this can let the magic, expensive smoke out and no internal parts are available, so new $$$$ actuator time.

This issue can be caused by several problems including, bad connections, diff lock ECU issue, bound motor, etc. In my experience the most common are motor problem or the contact plate switches not making good contact. Most times it's a "take the actuator apart, clean, grease problem.

A couple of pages that may help?

[acflyguy18]

tools R us, that was clutch with the diagrams. Everything you said makes sense, but I did hit the connections on top of the actuator and got some readings, just don't remember what exactly I got. Didn't have any info on what I would actually see if it was working right, just wanted to know and found out that power is getting to the actuator best I can tell at this point, gonna check it again this week. Also, I am hearing the click in the passenger side kick panel, So I am guessing that the ECU is working properly, if that is where it is located. From other threads I think it is.

Thanks again,
Dave

[tblume]

alley-oop tools; nice screen shots.

AC- those are the pages I was going to send Tuesday, but don't have to now
you'll be locked by ohdark:thirty at this rate.