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Old 09-11-08, 02:35 PM   #31
Nay
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Originally Posted by 2everest View Post
Of course, Nay would be the one to post the smart ass comment

I will be sure to let you know how much I love it.



-josh
Just giving you sh$t


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Old 09-11-08, 03:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2everest View Post
Of course, Nay would be the one to post the smart ass comment

I will be sure to let you know how much I love it.



-josh
don't get him started or else we will have a thesis paper on spring rates, shock compression/dampening and caster geometry that only 2% of the board can actually understand



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Old 09-11-08, 04:54 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by concretejungle View Post
don't get him started or else we will have a thesis paper on spring rates, shock compression/dampening and caster geometry that only 2% of the board can actually understand

Nah, I'm not the caster nazi around here

Now choosing springs that are way too stiff for your application just because they are OME, and shocks that unbalance suspension travel because they are too short to complement those too stiff springs, and adding to that ridiculously heavy military tires while hoping to cure "the rear suspension unloading like a mother" just might not work out. On the other hand, you might just be a redneck

I haven't quite figured out how you get the rear suspension to unload given that problem is more associated with the front suspension on steep climbs, particularly with radius arms, but this thread is helping me understand in a hurry


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Last edited by Nay; 09-11-08 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 09-11-08, 10:23 PM   #34
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I would have to say I agree on the sway bar issue. In my findings, it unloaded/flexed way easy with the rear sway bar on, and I didn't notice much of a difference when I removed the rear swaybar. The front, I did notice a difference. You would think it would be the opposite feel. Maybe, as with what alkline747trio says, with the rear on, and front off, it would force the front to flex more. Makes sense!

I'm not gunna go into specifics with why I want to run these tires (lost cause and has been argued in plenty of other threads), but I can say that I am far from a redneck. Come on, I just love Land Cruisers.

I read these threads day in and day out, and have researched and planned on running these tires for a while. Said many times on here, "Different strokes for different folks!"



-Josh


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Old 09-12-08, 12:02 AM   #35
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You know you will NEED: cryo'd (or is it heat treated? I know both is bad) 5.29s, Longfields, chromoly shafts, ARP hub studs.....

Unless you never break things.


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Old 09-12-08, 09:51 AM   #36
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Yes, 5.29 are coming the same time. I was going to wait for the birf's and shafts. If they break, I mean when they break, I will just replace them, no biggie.

Unless it leaves me stranded


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Old 09-12-08, 10:45 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by 2everest View Post
But I can say that I am far from a redneck. Come on, I just love Land Cruisers.
Really, I'm just giving you crap. I just love threads where people are trying to find the least worst OME coil and as much as I try to help it, I can't

In an attempt to be helpful, I leave the rear swaybar on and wheel with the front disconnected (I pull it at the trailhead). My entire setup feels extremely well balanced, but I also don't have a long travel suspension and my rear swaybar doesn't seem to be unhappy even though I have no drop brackets for it. Here's an idea of front/rear flex with front off and rear on.
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Old 09-12-08, 01:34 PM   #38
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Awesome information Nay! I am feeling like rebuilding the rear sway bar (well, new bushings), and re-installing it. This sounds like a plan. Have you ever pulled one of the front radius arm bolts? Does that make a huge difference in the front end balance? Or is it just an accident waiting to happen?



-Josh


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Old 09-12-08, 01:36 PM   #39
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I was also trying to find a spec sheet on the OME nitrocharger shocks. Closed length, open length, etc.


Just curious! In case anybody reading this thread has come across it!

Thanks in advance!


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Old 09-12-08, 02:00 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by 2everest View Post
Have you ever pulled one of the front radius arm bolts? Does that make a huge difference in the front end balance? Or is it just an accident waiting to happen?



-Josh

FJBen has a good write-up on this. I have seen first hand that i know it allows the front to flex a lot more. However, i'm not sure the on-road behavior is worth leaving it out.

My plan is to use a receiver hitch pin so i can pull it out at the trail head and put it back in before i drive home.


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Old 09-12-08, 02:37 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2everest View Post
Awesome information Nay! I am feeling like rebuilding the rear sway bar (well, new bushings), and re-installing it. This sounds like a plan. Have you ever pulled one of the front radius arm bolts? Does that make a huge difference in the front end balance? Or is it just an accident waiting to happen?



-Josh
See my old thread It goes into different shocks, mounts, extended travel, "hitch pin" and has pics of all the flex gained and insights Sounds like a made for TV mud drama


Goes from stock to modded up.
RTI thread


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Old 09-12-08, 04:18 PM   #42
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here is a shot of mine as it sits right now. Those are 35 inch truxus tires. medium spring in back, J spring up front. It's perfect with no weight in the back. When i load it up for a long trip, it "feels" and to me sits more or less flat. I don't know if that makes sense, but that's the best way to describe it. Which i don't like.

I think i may go with the j' spring out back. I would like to get different shocks especially up front. I intend to put the hitch pin up front on the control arm (pull the pin), unbolt the shock and let it flex until the j spring starts to come unseated. Add another .5 inch and buy a shock in that length.

But for the most part it is nice and low and wheels great. I may buy a 35.5 inch Q78, but other than that i'll wheel it this way for a long time. I think it's fun using your armor.
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Old 09-14-08, 11:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJBen View Post
Goes from stock to modded up.
RTI thread
Very cool thread, with aaaaaaaaa lot of info. I learned a lot just from that link.

Thanks!

-Josh


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Old 09-14-08, 11:54 AM   #44
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But for the most part it is nice and low and wheels great. I may buy a 35.5 inch Q78, but other than that i'll wheel it this way for a long time. I think it's fun using your armor.
Maybe be obvious, but what is a Q78?


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Old 09-14-08, 07:08 PM   #45
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Maybe be obvious, but what is a Q78?

it's just the model number for a particular size of swamper. It measures 35.5 inches tall and is a relatively narrow tire (i think it's 10.5 inches wide)

Super Swamper :: Interco Tire

click on the link and look at the size.


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Old 09-14-08, 08:25 PM   #46
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That is a sick size TSL. I have always liked the skinny tall TSL's. I HATE wide tires.

Are those horrible on the road? I heard they wear quickly. How long are they rated for?


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