HOW TO: POWER DISTRIBUTION Part 3-Inverter install

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 03:17 PM

Part 1 of the power distribution install- the aux. fuse panel

Part 2 of the power distribution install- 12 volt outlets

Part 4 of the power distribution install- bring da power!

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For part three, and the major reason for doing power distribution, is the first of two inverter installs. The first inverter I installed is a Vector 400W continuous/800W peak inverter. This is a MOD SINE inverter which can be used with everyday items that use a grounded/non-grounded 110V power. This includes cell phone charges, blenders, tvs, dvd players, vibrators, etc. Now what this inverter is NOT designed for are the Nickel Cad rechargeable batteries and lap tops. Lap tops in particular need a PURE SINE inverter or a DC-DC converter if you want the battery to work right.

For my purposes I only needed the unit for charging cell phones, the PSP for long trips and for the occasional blended Margarita!

Now I had two issues with the inverter as soon as I got it. It was kind of loud due to the cooling fan and it was too obtrusive to just have lay out. So I decided I wanted a nice clean install. At $40 I figured it was worth tearing it apart to see what makes this thing go and then from there decide how in the heck i was going to mount it.

Just a few simple screws and the whole thing pretty easily slides right out of the red, finned, aluminum casing. From here it was easy to see that the power in side was just a pos/neg cable set up. Ok no need to change that. But the other side was the front panel. All it was was a switch, some LEDS and the power wires. And the power wires were just small power boards. Easy peasy.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 03:19 PM

The first step was to remove the switch wires. So I de-soldered both sides of the wires. This means the switch AND the board side. Now I can go ahead and extend those wires without issue. I then went ahead and de-soldered the power wires. The LEDs are affixed to the main board and not the front panel.

Now after carefully measuring the length of the front panel, I learned I had one small little issue...it was going to be in the way of the ABS sensor mounted to the right of the 4WD selector. You know, the one that says "DO NOT MOVE OR ELSE". Well....I needed to move it. So I unplugged it and unscrewed the bracket it was mounted on. Its only then held onto the bracket by two bolts. Its a self contained unit. So ok, I drilled out two new holes in the bracket which moved it forward about .50" and then towards the gear selector about .25". Quick and painless and now everything fits.

Now I "could" have just mounted the inverter plate further back on the console BUT that would have meant that the PS seat would have to be fully back in order to utilize both 110v outlets. By moving the ABS box i was able to prevent that. So far no issues with ABS.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 03:20 PM

At this point I went ahead and traced the inverter plate onto a piece of thick paper to use as my template for placement onto the center console. I then taped the template on the console. Re-installed the console and then decided how much I needed to nudge the cover to align it with the 12 volt outlets and still keep it square.

Once I was comfortable with it I used a permanent marker to mark the points where I needed to drove for the mounting holes and marked where I needed to trim in order to fit the switch AND the cover plate. I then used a sideways cutting drill to basically just route out the square holes I need to snugly fit the inverter plate. After deburring the holes, I did a test fit, trimmed some more and then mounted the plate in the console and then did one more dry test fit with the console in place. Everything fits and clears just fine. Now I can start bringing in the new wires needed for the power outlets and the switch.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 03:22 PM

This left me with placement of the rest of the noisy inverter. I had already decided on mounting inside the arm rest. Not under the arm rest per se, but under the whole thing. So after removing (4) 12mm bolts on each corner and the (2) 12mm bolts inside the arm rest box, I was then able to pull the entire arm rest box up and out of the way. It was at this time I decided that the MID speaker and box were totally freaking useless so I unplugged it and set it aside. AHA! I can now also get rid of that stupid pile of Sh|t CD changer that has been collecting dust. I now had a huge mount of space to work with and after removing the changer, I knew where the inverter was going to go.

I measured the width of the inverter and the width of the bracket that was holding the CD changer...PERFECT FIT!!! So I drilled out four holes into the bracket that align with the four holes in the inverter and mounted it up. Now you can only get it snug and not flush because the two bolts that hold the arm rest box onto the bracket, stick down about .125". This was no big deal. After snugging it up, that inverter wasn't going anywhere.

I then dry fit the arm rest back into place. Uh oh. it wont go down. Turns out there is a plastic moulded support bracket that fit into an indent in the changer. That was not pressing on the inverter. So instead of moving the inverter back some, I went ahead and trimmed down that moulded piece that was stick down too far. Too 2 minutes to trim using a razor blade and now everything fits snug.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 03:23 PM

I then attached the pos.neg cables using 6AWG cables going to the distribution points AFTER going through an 80A circuit breaker. Now whats important about inverters, and why I started the power distribution project, is that inverters MUST have both the pos AND neg cables go to the battery. You should NOT use a ground point for the neg. cable. And I used an 80A circuit breaker because the instructions call for it. After everything was buttoned up it was time for a test. Plugged in some walkie talkies. Worked perfectly.

The only thing I still need to address is the LED placement...although the install went perfectly and all LEDs read good. And because this isnt getting moved it may be a moot point. But I MAY decide to move the LEDs over as well. the other item to figure out is the fan noise. When the radio is going you absolutely DO NOT hear it. But if all sound is off you can hear it. The solution can be as simple as adding sound deadening material in the box. We'll see.

Part 4 of the power distribution will discuss the power distribution itself!

mrhustle23 · 09-08-08, 05:56 PM

Awesome write up and I'm definately going to do something along the lines of this.

I did just notice however thatyou have your inverter mounted upside down? You may run into some over heating issues in the future. I know in the car audio world, you can't mount amplifiers upside down unless there built fans and such. Shouldn't be too bad hopefully. Again, awesome job!

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 06:03 PM

The reason I mounted in inside in arm rest console is BECAUSE of the fan noise.

sandcruiser · 09-09-08, 04:41 PM

I might add some sort of louvre or vent holes to the console back.... how well does air ventilate there? inverters can get pretty warm.

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 04:57 PM

Well for ME its a non issue because I removed the CD changer so I have a pretty big access hole back there. Even with the CD changer it still had a plastic piece that had louvers in it.

NLXTACY · 09-23-08, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrhustle23

Awesome write up and I'm definately going to do something along the lines of this.

I did just notice however thatyou have your inverter mounted upside down? You may run into some over heating issues in the future. I know in the car audio world, you can't mount amplifiers upside down unless there built fans and such. Shouldn't be too bad hopefully. Again, awesome job!

Realized I never answered this. There is a built in fan on the inverter. Even after 2 hours of use this thing doesn't get very hot. Warm yes. Hot no.