HOW TO: POWER DISTRIBUTION Part 1-Aux fuse panel

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 01:51 PM

Part 2 of the power distribution install- 12 volt outlets

Part 3 of the power distribution install- the inverter install

Part 4 of the power distribution install- bring da power!

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Hello again. Figured that I would take the time and go into detail about my install. I wanted to add aux. fuses, I wanted some power outlets, I needed an inverter and I needed a way to manage the power to these items. So thus started my huge project of power distribution.

This install all started with needing some extra fuses. I read up about Slee's and Corbet's install and decided that those were the direction I wanted to go. It was proven and it worked.

At first I wanted to install the 12 fuse ATC style fuse panel. I wound up ordering two because I was going to install the second one at the the rear of the truck. Well after getting these both I soon learned that the physical size of the panel would NOT make for a very easy install onto the passenger side seat plate. No matter how I orientated it, I still had to do some customization that I didnt feel would be really necessary. So I went ahead and got the same 6 fuse (glass style) that Corbet used. Turns out to fit perfectly and rather than use the existing hole on the seat panel, I decided to make two new ones in order to get it to fit the way I wanted it to.

I was pretty shocked at how simple/basic the seat mounting design is. Its just (4) 14mm bolts and (1) 2-wire clip for power to the seat. It comes out in all of about 4 minutes. Once the seat is off you can see just how much room you have to work with. It turns out plenty. The front of the heater fan has a large channel that you can stuff in plenty of wires. This was helpful because I stuffed PLENTY of wires in there.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 01:53 PM

I went ahead and used Corbet's base wire sizes and then referenced the wire size guide to decide the size I wanted to go. I only upgraded one of the wires. Now for most installations you can pull power from the battery and just ground to a good ground point on the truck. I went a different way. I only needed to tie into the power distribution points that I had installed under the center console. So I would be bringing both the pos. and neg. wires to the distribution blocks. After seeing what Corbet used for wire, the tandem sleeved variety, I knew that I would be going the same route. Everything I ordered came quick and always correct.

I brought in the 6AWG cables under the carpet and to the +/- posts on the aux. fuse panel. I used GenuineDealz wire connectors because they use the heat shrink crimps. Very handy.

From there its just a matter of pulling it all the wires you need for your accessories. Now when deciding where to run the wires be aware that the seat rails are roughly about .75" of an inch above the seat panel. That means that all wires you bring in from the top needs to be set as close to the seat panel as possible because if...oh lets say you don't pay attention to it and you have a trimmed zip tie up top and....oh lets say you move the seat back. You may pull the wire out of its socket and then short out the wire. This sucked....hypothetically of course.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 01:55 PM

For the fuse panel, this was pretty simple. Then its just a matter of labeling the cover and you're done on this side.

Now I also decided to run one of the 12 fuse panels under the hood. This was a difficult decision because there wasnt a whole lot of room to mount one without it sticking out like a sore thumb. So I went the easy route. I install it using 4 sheet metal bolts and washers onto the cruise control cover. Simple and clean.

Now for BOTH aux fuse panels I decided to run an 80A circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Why? I dunno, cool points I guess. Plus I didn't want to have to worry about having to storage a bunch of megafuses if I didnt need to.

So each fuse panel got an 80A circuit. For the inside fuse panel this just went under the center console as I will describe in my next thread. Adding the circuit breakers in the hood area was a major headache because I prefer clean installs. So I had an idea. I would be making (ok I had someone else make) a bracket that attached to the fender.

I used a 1/8" thick piece of cold rolled steel and just had it bent twice. What this does is clears the hood when its closed. So if I had a 1" tall megafuse cover, it would not interfere with the hood. I measured up everything and drilled out holes to mount on the fender. I also measured where the hood strut would lay when the hood was closed. And placed the bracket .25" ahead of it. After that I was able to determine the location of the megafuse I was going to be using for the power distribution inside the cab. Plus I could then add two more 80 circuit breakers. One would be for the aux. side dual battery set up and the other for the 12 fuse panel mounted on top of the cruise control cover.

Everything worked out perfectly and everything looks nice and clean.

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 01:55 PM

Now the way the bracket is designed, I can add some heavy 1/0 cable without bending the bracket. Plus its shallow enough to where I can still get to the Hellroaring BIC install AND still able to remove the air cleaner cover.

Part 2 of the power distribution install- 12 volt outlets

Part 3 of the power distribution install- the inverter install

Part 4 of the power distribution install- bring da power!

PabloVTA · 09-08-08, 05:32 PM

that's tight.

How long were the lengths of cable you used to get to the bottom of the seat?
any more pics of where you routed it?

did you make a new hole thru the firewall?

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 05:37 PM

I am about to upload part 4 which will explain all of that.

Its 15ft of 1/0 to the center console. Then its just 2ft or so to the new fuse panel.

Ebag333 · 09-08-08, 08:01 PM

VERY slick and helpful! Expect to see me copy extensively from you and not give any credit.

Can we get this added to the FAQ?

NLXTACY · 09-08-08, 08:13 PM

Well the first part of the install was a complete rip from CORBET so he deserves the credit. As far as FAQ...well.. its been discussed before and I don't think I have enough posts to be FAQ worthy

unwiredadventures · 09-09-08, 09:28 AM

Your posts have been very informative. I'm rethinking my aux wiring plans.

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 12:40 PM

IF you read all four in the series it may change your plans even more!

Brentbba · 09-09-08, 12:45 PM

NLXTACY - love the quote in your sig line! You do know who I'm referring to don't you?

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 12:55 PM

Hahaha I saw your post but no I don't remember exactly who it was directed at. But I saw it and all I could think was...."god dammit, this is me"

unwiredadventures · 09-09-08, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

IF you read all four in the series it may change your plans even more!

They have, I'm just trying to wrap my head around all this content!

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 01:34 PM

BTW I "think" my total cost for everything was somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 and about 50 hours. The high cost was me buying things to have them in front of me and then not using them. The 50 hours was a LOT of experimentation and over analyzing time while doing the install. I only had a basic design in my head but all the details had to be worked out WHILE I was actually doing it. Trying to work out details on paper is next to impossible. If I needed to do the same exact set up again I am pretty sure I could do now in about 10-12 hours.

The main advantage I have now is its all a separate system from the main vehicle electronics. Well other than they share a common ground-the vehicle itself. But I can also now turn off 100% of all the aux. power via one switch in the arm rest. Plus it doesn't matter what I add that requires power now, the access point is in the cab now, not in the engine bay. I use to resist adding features because i dreaded having to pull new wires through the firewall. Now its so convenient I am looking for excuses to add stuff

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 01:41 PM

Here is the bracket specs I used.

All the mounting holes should be drilled out once you test fit the bracket.

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 01:59 PM

Here is also the final schematic of the install

Brentbba · 09-09-08, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Hahaha I saw your post but no I don't remember exactly who it was directed at. But I saw it and all I could think was...."god dammit, this is me"

LOL! E9999! Only the best and brightest anal engineer I've ever met...and that's coming from an extremely anal accountant!!! It takes one to know one!

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 02:05 PM

E's an Anal Engineer? That's gotta hurt.

Brentbba · 09-09-08, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

E's an Anal Engineer? That's gotta hurt.

He isn't any proctologist to my knowledge!

sandcruiser · 09-09-08, 04:44 PM

how water resistant is that fuse box?
I like the location, but I'm virtually guaranteed to get lots of moisture in that area sooner than later...

Could you seal up the cover with some tape/caulk/silicone grease? Or are the openings too big?

NLXTACY · 09-09-08, 04:54 PM

well...if you want to eliminate the threat of moisture than it could just as easily be mounted in a small pelican case. Then just drill some holes in it for the cables and silicone it. As for the BlueSea piece, its typically used on boats. Its all tinned copper and plastic. I'm not too worried about it. BUT, you "could" run a film of oil on the cover and then pour in the silicone to plug up the holes. They are small holes, nothing gaping.

sandcruiser · 09-10-08, 05:57 AM

cool. I'm not worried to the point of going with a pelican, but have considered using a tupperware with some holes in the sides (sealed). But stuff made for boats should be fairly water-resistant.

NLXTACY · 09-10-08, 09:02 AM

yeah I wouldn't worry to much about getting this thing wet. Submerged? Well thats different. But at THAT height you'll have other things to worry about.