[FirstToy]

I am planning on replacing my worn out canister with a new one.
Trying to do it on the cheap, I'm trying to find a container- seeing if any of you guys know a source for a metal screw top container about these dimensions.

Also if you have any ideas to add, it would be appreciated.

edit- actually the one hose on the bottom draws IN fresh air, not a drain.

[NLXTACY]

First question is does it have to be metal? If so what about aluminum?

[FirstToy]

I think metal would be nice since the orig is metal. I don't care what kind. Any basic container will do as I can drill holes, modify, etc from there.

[NLXTACY]

I gotta find it but I was just looking at an air canister for a brake booster that was an all aluminum canister shaped like yours and it threaded in the center instead of top. May be a little too big than what you are looking for though. I think Morosso makes it

[62FJ40]

I bet you could get 4 or 5 inch PVC pipe and caps to put something together. What are you planning to use for the charcoal media?

[FirstToy]

that is interesting... will fuel vapor/fuel damage the PVC?
I am unsure what the pressure is on the canister but I am guessing not much.

I plan on using activated charcoal

[gotmud]

Seems to me that:
Your time$ + trial and error$ + materials$ > OE part$

[FirstToy]

well it's just a canister... i don't think this is a big deal.

i plan to just cut it open and see what's doing inside out of curiosity and possibly reuse.
If I were to time/cost/price every thing with my truck... I would be a stock 80 right now! lol

[NLXTACY]

Fuel+ABS or Fuel+PVC = bad

Done both for a side project and both failed.

[Beowulf]

Check radiator overflow tanks on Summit and Jegs. I've seen something similar on hot rods and other customs.

4-1/8" x 7" Mr Gasket. Looks close to what you are after.



-B-

[TrickyT]

James,
Just curious, how do you know yours is worn out?

[FirstToy]

this is interesting- on a Celica, they bypassed the defunct charcoal canister altogether

what do you think?

[FirstToy]

"A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap. This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system. This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs."


Beo,
I was looking for a non-sealed container so I can put charcoal inside. thanks

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by FirstToy

Beo,
I was looking for a non-sealed container so I can put charcoal inside. thanks

Assuming that you have a source for granulated charcoal pellets or whatever they use in these things, couldn't you put in the charcoal by removing the petcock 1/4" NPT fitting?

And for the record, just 'cause I am offering suggestions in this thread doesn't mean that I am supporting your project if it involves circumventing the EVAP. This seems like an EPA violation and it appears dangerous to me. Fuel vapour is extremely volatile and the instructions you posted above have that vapour being vented close to the engine bay where you have a coil igniter, spark plugs, batteries, and other things that could ignite fuel vapour.

If I did this mod then I probably wouldn't park it in the garage or anywhere near my furnace or hot water heater.

-B-

[450 DUDE]

On the canister option , you could use a 4" aluminum or $$ pipe nipple.

hth
ken

[FirstToy]

Beo,
I don't even support bypassing! I am just posting info I'm finding on google- it's interesting how many 'bypass' the canister once it becomes useless.

here is another option using a container like you posted to trap the fumes

just look at this as brainstorming- my intention is to replace the canister unless all of this leads to something else


another one below- but I guess this is like the 'catchcan' that others have done for oil capture-

"Since we removed the PCV valve and its related system we needed to replace the venting system with an alternative means to collect the oil and fumes being vented from the engine. So I bought this beautiful well designed 1 litre capacity Catch Can from Symo-Sport. The other advantage to this system is that the fumes/oil with not go back into the car's I/C or intake track because it will be captured in an overboard container."

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by TrickyT

Just curious, how do you know yours is worn out?

Tom,
I'll offer up my story. About 4 or 5 years ago, I noticed a marked increase in gas fumes coming from under the bonnet. Primarily on hot days but not always. This went on for about 6 months. Dan and I were wheeling in the Rio Puerco on hot a August day and we could hear a sizzling sound coming from under the bonnet. We checked and found raw fuel being dumped from the tank into the charcoal canister. Dan speculated that the canister was probably saturated and therefore wasn't operating correctly. I replaced it and the fumes went away ... mostly. Still get it on hot days but not as bad.

Over $200 if I recall.

-B-

[FirstToy]

strong fuel smell at canister w/ changing altitude, high pressure in fuel tank, narrowed to the cc. I haven't had as severe a condition as Beo but just makes me want to replace.

my fear is fire or vapor locking the fuel system. i believe this happened to someone i know as fuel vapor would build beyond capacity to relieve it and starve out the engine on steep climbs, emptying the fuel lines and unable to start for awhile... (it may not be the cc in that case, but an overwhelmed emissions system but the theory still rings in my head)

thanks for the ideas guys, i'm going to cut it open in the morn and post some pics

[FirstToy]

Removed the CC and luckily it was a quick job- it will only take 1/2 an hour

you can see what is inside- it's really simple- just a bunch of charcoal and a way to hold it in.

I checked the 'check valves' and they were fine. so I put in a bunch of new activated charcoal and sealed it up.

i'll see how it does but $11 and 30 min is not bad if this works...

[FirstToy]

check the bottom line that it is clear of debris.

you can smell the fuel vapor strong from the gas tank side hose. The old charcoal inside was saturated with fuel smell- very strong.

new charcoal was $11
packed it in and jb weld shut.

I have no idea why this part is so expensive when new. I notice that many new cars have their charcoal canisters in formed plastic containers (usually box shaped) and close to the gas tank.
Maybe they wanted it as high as possible to do away with adding more valves or electronics?

I wish it had a screw-top, it would make service so easy. If anyone comes across a can like this, please PM me. I would like to have something reusable

[Ebag333]

Originally Posted by FirstToy

packed it in and jb weld shut.

I wish it had a screw-top, it would make service so easy. If anyone comes across a can like this, please PM me. I would like to have something reusable

What about using some FIPG and JB welding some of the latches on there similar to the tuna catch can or the air filter? You might need to add a ring on the outside to keep it from shifting, but would be easy to do.

Would seal it shut and make PM fairly easy to do.

Heck, if you did that you probably wouldn't even need the FIPG...

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by Ebag333

Heck, if you did that you probably wouldn't even need the FIPG...

I believe he will need some type of gasket material. The canister should be able to handle both pressure and vacuum.

-B-

[Jeeper]

Firsttoy -

Did you just cut the top off with a saw near the flange? No explosions I assume!

I took my canister out last week as I have high pressure in my gas tank. The check valves did not pass the FSM test of 1psi and something less than 1psi. So I wanted to get in there and clean the check valves, but I didn't see a way to get inside without chopping it.

Are you comfortable with the JB Weld securing the top?

Thanks - great post!

[FirstToy]

yes just used a cutting wheel. quick.
if you cut right under the lip, it would be cleaner. power sand the paint off first so the jb (or whatever you use) can stick to the metal.

you can clean out the valves with brake cleaner or some spray cleaner. to open that mechanism, you have to drill out the rivits but I wouldn't recommend it. It would probably have some delecate springs to hold those ball bearings and would be pretty tough to get it all back. I think just cleaning would be the same.

I don't know what the pressure is in the can but with the bottom tube open to the air, there is no way for pressure or suction to build so I think the jbweld will hold. we will see.

i think the engine heat would break down the jbweld before anything else

[MaddBaggins]

Hows this holding up for you so far??

I have been noticing (the last 2 times) I went up into the mountains that I get a very strong gas smell and when I pop the gas cap it will vent for (no joke!!) at least 5 minutes. Thats going from 2500' to nearly 8000' on 100+ degree days in less than 1 hour. With that much pressure I guess my gas tank looked like a football. I won't be leaving the valley again until I fix this.

This evening I removed the canister and tested it according to FSM. It failed. While I was at it I also tested the VCV and the check valve just after it. Both passed no problem. I'll be calling Dan in the a.m. for a new canister. I gather it's $$.

[FirstToy]

Alvin,
it works fine driving around. no fuel smell, no pressure from the tank. I have not gone offroading/altitude to really get the fumes going but so far so good.
I'm sure you can figure out a better way to seal it than my booty jb weld (if you do, post it up so i can copy it )

OEM CC is $200-350

[MaddBaggins]

I'll probably wuss out on the booty-fab cure for the bad canister. I was planning on going up the mountain this weekend, but now maybe not. I need to fix this first. It really freaked me out how long it took the gas tank to stop releasing pressure when I pulled the gas cap.

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by MaddBaggins

I'll probably wuss out on the booty-fab cure for the bad canister. I was planning on going up the mountain this weekend, but now maybe not. I need to fix this first. It really freaked me out how long it took the gas tank to stop releasing pressure when I pulled the gas cap.

Is this a significant sign that the CC is bad? If so I am pretty sure I have a bad one because my gas tank has always taken a long time to release pressure. I never really thought anything of it.

After doing some reading on CC's I do recall that I did smell fuel the other day, but it was subtle enough I was able to track it down and I didn't think to check the CC.


Any updates on how the Booty-fab/aquarium charcoal canister is holding up? 300 bones is a little steep for a new one if I can remedy the old one.

[FirstToy]

It's going fine nicholas,
no fuel smell and no backpressure. it's working fine.

I should have drilled some holes into the can to give the JBWeld a mechanical grip but it seems to be holding fine so far.

I wouldn't freak out about it if the smell isn't strong, just stop overfilling your tank. Mine was noticable and strong (I think a combo of sloshing around, heat and altitude change).

[jvazquez53]

If your vehicle is desmoged, do you need the charcoal canister?