How much cutting for 35s?

[Izeloz]

I have a '92 FJ80 and I plan on getting the OME stock height springs. I want to run 35's (and I will be regearing to 5.29's). I was just wondering how much and where I will need to cut to get the maximum flex with no rubbing. I have no problem cutting to fit but I would like some input on where and how much. Thanks.

[72rockcruiser]

I guess it depends on the truck. People are gonna call me retarded, but I had, and wheeled 35's on my stock 80 for a while. They rubbed the mud flaps (before i took them) off and very small amount in the rear inner fender well. STOCK truck no bumpstop extensions, etc. Its easy DO IT!

[72rockcruiser]

Oh, and I also plan to put the 38 12.50 TSL's (from my Sammi being parted out) on this truck with only a J/medium lift. This i know I will have to cut for, but I WILL make this happen.

[chibo]

Subscribing... IF I keep my truck it is getting 37's on a 2.5 and cutting. I'm interested to see.

[d0ubledown]

35's...a bit. 38's...$hitloads.. fronts easy...its the back you'll need to worry about.

[72rockcruiser]

Originally Posted by chibo

Subscribing... IF I keep my truck it is getting 37's on a 2.5 and cutting. I'm interested to see.

Dont spend much time updating my sig, but got 37 SSRs on there now, No rubbing with so far mild wheeling, was a way easier fit than I thought it would be. The 38's are on 2.5 backspace 15's so they will swing wider and definatey require some body love. I am very experienced with the sawzall though, so I'm not scared.

[Nay]

If you need 35's and 5.29's, you probably need some lift. I'd want OME medium at least to allow the 35's to be more effective.

Having said that, I'm pretty seriously considering going to 37's on my FOR lift, and the tweaking should be relatively minor to do so.

[chibo]

Originally Posted by 72rockcruiser

The 38's are on 2.5 backspace 15's so they will swing wider and definatey require some body love.

What kind of wheels are they? I've read that area of backspacing will allow for 15" wheels on the 97 brakes depending on the wheel style. I'm looking to see what style you have.

[Izeloz]

I like to stay low. Why do you say I probably want some lift to use the 35s? The 80 flexes okay (not spectacular) but I think a low COG and traction are much more important than flex. I have the flares and mudflaps removed and the rear swaybar is gone (took it off and didn't notice any negative effects that I can't easily compensate for).

[Ebag333]

Originally Posted by Izeloz

I like to stay low. Why do you say I probably want some lift to use the 35s? The 80 flexes okay (not spectacular) but I think a low COG and traction are much more important than flex. I have the flares and mudflaps removed and the rear swaybar is gone (took it off and didn't notice any negative effects that I can't easily compensate for).

If you want to stay low look into a body lift. I picked one up from 4crawler (Roger Brown) and did the 1" lift. I did have to modify the radiator mounts to get the fan to spin freely, but other than that no serious issues.

Since a body lift doesn't raise up the suspension/frame/engine/etc, you're keeping the COG much lower than with a suspension lift.

I plan on fitting 35's with the 1" body lift and the 30mm spring spacers (at least until I can get a "real" lift).

[jonheld]

Couple of things to consider. I ran 35x12.50R15 MTRs for 2 years with the OME 850/860 combination. Slight lift, very good articulation, no rubbing.

What makes it work is the backspacing on the rims. If the tires can tuck into the fenders, then there's no need to cut.

I run 36x12.50 TSL/SX with the J springs now. I had to go taller to clear the lugs and I am not one to cut sheet metal. They rub slightly at full stuff, but if your tires don't rub, you can fit bigger tires.

[72rockcruiser]

Originally Posted by chibo

What kind of wheels are they? I've read that area of backspacing will allow for 15" wheels on the 97 brakes depending on the wheel style. I'm looking to see what style you have.

El cheepo black rockcrawlers from 4wp. 15x8 with 2.5" backspacing. part # 51 5883R2.5, and yes the will clear the caliper on my 97, already test fit them I whil back.

[chibo]

Originally Posted by 72rockcruiser

El cheepo black rockcrawlers from 4wp. 15x8 with 2.5" backspacing. part # 51 5883R2.5, and yes the will clear the caliper on my 97, already test fit them I whil back.

$52 a piece, so cheap. Perfect, thank you.

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by d0ubledown

35's...a bit. 38's...$hitloads.. fronts easy...its the back you'll need to worry about.

x2 I cut as much as I could away from the back wheel well (not talking about the 1/4 panal) and it was a complete and utter waste of time... Here is a link: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-finished.html

[SR.GRINGO]

I have run 35´s with an OME Heavy lift w/ top out spacers for over 4 years. I have wheeled her hard....only time I rub is up front if I am cruising and hit something like a speed bump. Please post plenty of photos if you start cutting.

[72rockcruiser]

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

x2 I cut as much as I could away from the back wheel well (not talking about the 1/4 panal) and it was a complete and utter waste of time... Here is a link: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-finished.html

What backspacing on your wheels? Where does it hit? Glad you guys said that, I thought the front was gonna be the biggest issue.

[Izeloz]

I figured the front would be easy. I also figured that to do any good at all the rear wheel wells would have to be reworked and tubbed. I suppose I will get the 35s, throw 'em on and cut anything that gets in the way. I have a line on some recentered H1 hummer rims but the least backspacing you can get on them is 4" (stock is 7" I believe). Will I need to run spacers if I get ahold of these?

[Nay]

Originally Posted by Izeloz

I like to stay low. Why do you say I probably want some lift to use the 35s? The 80 flexes okay (not spectacular) but I think a low COG and traction are much more important than flex. I have the flares and mudflaps removed and the rear swaybar is gone (took it off and didn't notice any negative effects that I can't easily compensate for).

Keeping COG low on an 80 is a good idea, however, the reason to lift an 80 is not to gain flex, it's to provide clearance. The frame hangs down pretty low, and the rear lower control arm mounts are a particular issue in hanging up. It's a big truck, even with a decent lift I bang it around constantly.

To really get the kind of clearance you'd be used to with a smaller rig and shorter wheelbase you are talking 37's and closer to 5" of lift. Everything else is a matter of how much tolerance you have for bashing stuff on the underside if you like to crawl hard. If you aren't talking about serious rock crawling, then not so much of a big deal, but biggest tire to smallest lift is a good idea for these top heavy beasts. There's just no way you get around some lift if big rock gardens are in your plans.

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by 72rockcruiser

What backspacing on your wheels? Where does it hit? Glad you guys said that, I thought the front was gonna be the biggest issue.

I run a 16x7 wheel with approx 3" BS. The only place I rub is the inner rear fender at full stuff, but I haven't lowered my bump stops and my rear panhard is bowed...

[denicks]

I run offroad in Colorado where COG is a big concern. I run 35" BFG KM2, 5" OME springs with 1.5" spacers, NO backspacing "yet", .529 gears, lockers F/R... I have been at crazy offcamber angles on trails like Carnage Canyon (Buena Vista), Chinaman Gulch, Blanca, Independence trail in Penrose, Moab,... etc... My roll and pitch gauge has been off the scale without flopping on the top (>40deg roll)... I would definitely go with at least the medium lift (2 or 2.5")... I've had it before and it was well worth it... much better wheel travel, ground clearance, etc...

[IBCRUSN]

I'm in the same boat as some folks here that strive for a low CG and larger tires. I run a similar setup as Jon on my 80 with some minor additions/differences. No flares, 2.5" HD OME lift with Metaltech 1.5" spacers up front, L shocks front & rear, 2" bumps in the back (too much 1.25" or 1.5" is enough), rear panhard adjusted and a 1" body lift from Roger. All that crap to run 36" TSXs on 4" BS wheels w/ 1.25" wheel spacers. Once I went with the spacers I have zero rub front or back. Prior to the spacers I had some light rubbing in the rear wheel wells. I could easily run 37s with almost no rubbing and depending on the width of a 38" tire I'd need to cut or radius the rear wheel arches but no matter there would definitely be some serious tire rub with such a low lift.

[Izeloz]

The issue I am having is that I seriously want to go with volvo portals once I can find a set for around $3000-$4000 with the 5.99 gear ratio. That would lift it 5"-6" so I don't want to already have a big lift on it or it would be too tall. If I remember right, TiredIron was running 39's with the 2.5" OME lift and volvo portals. I don't plan on running anything bigger than a 37" tire so I don't know if I need any lift at all. I do mostly rock-crawling.

[MARLIN375]

Do the 2.5 OME lift, you won't regret it.

You're going to need fresh springs and shocks anyhow.

Edit: to answer your question, I trimmed the inside of the rear mudflaps to stuff my MTZ 315s with the 2.5 OME lift......thats it. They did touch the top of my wheel well at the same time as the stop, but they have worn slightly now and don't anymore.