[NLXTACY]

Hi there folks. Its time for another totally useless, but I thought it was cool, HOW TO that will never find its way into the FAQs

The idea started actually last year while in Mammoth during a blizzard. On the way out of the town, while trying to get to the 395, the road had been closed by the CHP. Well not closed so much as you had to have a CHP escort. We wound up waiting our turn for close to 2 hours. During this time we, just like everyone else, would turn off the truck until it was time to move. During this time we happened upon a family that was in a 100 series. It seems their dual TVs and dual DVD players and the 0º weather took its toll on the batteries because they were stuck. We saw the hood up and car after car would just drive right on past. Finally we had driven up to them to see how we could help. Jumper cables to the rescue.

Wooops!

No jumper cables. Turns out the last person we helped...helped themselves to the cables and we didn't notice. Luckily ANOTHER FJ80 came by with cables and we got the 100 started. Although it was pure comedy watching these guys try to decide where to ground and which cable goes where. All ended well. This got us thinking. Why not have battery cables that would only work for our truck, would be easily accessible, would be more foolproof to hook up AND that we could turn on and use without even opening up the hood.

Hence.........


"THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE BATTERY CABLES"
(or, "Joey has too much time on his hands" OR
"another 80 owner with more money than brains")

When I started this I had decided that I wanted to use cable quick disconnects. The same type used for powering up winches. I wanted them hooked up to the auxiliary battery because if I am going to fry a battery, I'd rather it be that one. I also wanted the ability to turn it on via a solenoid and use a dash mounted switch. All without lifting the hood.

I contacted Wrangler Power Products and was working directly with Stan Hackathorn. I would be sourcing almost all of the necessary products from him/them for this project. No affiliation although if you are reading this Stan...freebies are always welcome.

BTW, the Wrangler site sux a$$ but the PDF actually has some good info. Download here.

Items needed:
• Aux. battery, of course you can use the main but I've seen stupid things cause batteries to go boom.
• Wrangler's 200Amp solenoid 29-983 ($72.00)
• A few feet both both red and black battery cable. I used 1/0 but you can use 4 AWG just fine. 010-000013 ($4.37 ft. for black), 010-000014 ($4.45 ft. for red)
• (2) 1/0 Pos. lugs 014-000032 ($3.92 or $1.96 ea.)
• (2) 1/0 Neg. lugs 014-000031 ($2.86 or $1.43 ea.)
• (4) quick disconnect pins 014-009042 ($13.96 or $3.49 ea.)
• (2) quick disconnect Lexan 903 housings 012-009032 ($3.91 ea.)
• (1) quick disconnect dust cover 372-000905 ($4.60 ea.)
• (1) quick disconnect mechanical latch 34-903M & 34-903L ($34.00 for both) (optional but needed for the cool factor)
• (2) neg terminal boots 372-003070 ($2.54 or $1.27 ea.)
• 16ft (or more if required) of 2AWG TANDEM cable 010-202020 ($86.24 or $5.39 ft.)
• (2) battery hand clamps 372-015400 ($8.99 red), 372-015401 ($8.99 black)
• 20 ft of black fish net stocking sheathing 015-000294 ($17.60)
• several adhesive shrink tubes 015-001751 ($2.65 ft)
• Hammer indent punch ($15.00)
• 15 ft of 14AWG wire
• wire connectors
• .25" split loom
• room for another fuse

[NLXTACY]

more parts

[NLXTACY]

The first step is deciding where to put the solenoid. I went with Wrangler's 200Amp continuous duty solenoid but its mounting orientation, I thought, was kinda limiting. I decided that the best place to affix this would be between the two horns on that metal bracket that they are connected to. Now the spacing between the solenoid is just slightly too narrow so you will have to widen it slightly. Again, this is only if you are mounting it here. I wanted it out of the way and more or less hidden so this made sense for me.

Once there you have a small power post and a small ground post. It doesn't matter which you use as ground and which you use as power. I used the mounting bracket as the ground. Just a small piece of wire with an eyelet connector and shrink tubing on both ends.

The power wire will need to be longer. You COULD mount the switch near the quick disconnect or even in the engine bay but this didn't make sense to me because I wanted to use the cables without having to lift the hood. Plus I didn't want random people flicking my switches if its exposed. So for me that meant bringing it into the cab.

I had already bought an extra hazard switch and had figured out how to relabel a switch thanks to another mud member who I don't remember made the mention.

From there I just made a new label and installed the switch. I was able to figure out which wires I needed to connect in order to complete the circuit so I brought the wire from the solenoid and connected it to the switch. From the switch I connected it to my new aux. fuse panel with a 5A fuse.

The switch in the dash now turns the solenoid off/on to allow or not allow current through.

[NLXTACY]

disconnect switch

[NLXTACY]

I now used the crimper I got from AirGas for $15 and started making cables. The 1/0 cables I got from Wrangler was actually really easy to work worth. I was dreading trying to manipulate the cable but the casing was soft and it uses 100s of copper wires so it was easy to work with.

I had already purchased my Odyssey battery, ala Sears, for my dual battery set up. I went with the M series just so that I would get the dual attachment points on the battery. The threaded posts is what I used as the anchor points for the cables that are going to be used for the quick disconnect.

After mounting the solenoid, adding the battery, I then needed a place to put the actually receiving end of the quick disconnect. Now this can be anyway accessible. I chose the cross member of my damage multiplier. Yeah yeah, it will be replaced soon enough. So two small holes drilled and now that piece is attached.

Now its time to measure the run for the cables. I decided to run the thick cables behind the headlights and then into the space behind the grill. this mean just remove the overflow tank and moving it aside. Now take any random wire you have around and run the wire from the positive side of the battery, through the headlight opening, behind the grill, to the back end of the disconnect. That is your positive run. I think mine measured 28". Now cut 28" from your 1/0 cables, strip the ends, select a quick disconnect pin and battery lug. Using a crimper, crimp the lugs to the cable. For me it meant smashing the hell out of the indent crimper.

Now because the cable was running in between sheet metal, I thought it would be a good idea to run sheathing with the cable. So I ran some of that cool black fish net stocking kinda stuff over the cable and pulled taught. Then I used an adhesive type shrink tube to adhere the sheath, cable and lug together. Then did the same to the other side. Now I attached the pin into the quick disconnect by pushing the pin into the socket. You will here a loud CLICK. Now for routing I routed the cables in the grill but obviously you don't have to. But for me I could now route the cable from the disconnect, through the grill, into the space behind the headlight and alongside the battery and up and connecting to the top of the battery. Perfect fit.

For the negative, you would need to run from the ground of the battery, to the solenoid. Then from the other post of the solenoid to the quick disconnect. There is limited room to attach to the solenoid but it wasn't impossible. BTW, if you are going to add terminal covers, PLEASE add them before crimping your lugs.

So that is it for the vehicle part.

[NLXTACY]

Now Wrangler sells the actual battery cables as a kit, I didn't just want those. I wanted the cool mechanical latch and I wanted to add the sheathing so I purchased 16 ft. of 2AWG and the clamps to assemble my own jumper cables.

When making your own jumper cables, its important to run the cable through the hand clamps BEFORE you crimp the lug that attaches to the clamp. Man I'm dumb. From there I ran a shrink tube then the sheathing. This just goes on like a really long condom. Its all to familiar, I'm sure you all know what I am talking about :fipoff2:

Even though the 2AWG cable I got WAS tandem, I decided I wanted the cool sheathing anyway. So I ran it through and attached at one end, leaving about 3 ft of naked cable, then attached using the shrink tubing.

I then pulled the sheathing taught all the way to the other end of the 16 ft. cable and taped it in place. I added the quick disconnect pin lugs and then individually added the shrink tubing. Make sure you have another shrink tube over the cable. This is where you pull the sheathing taught and then heat up the shrink tube to hold it in place about 6 inches from the tip of the connectors. At this point you can insert the pins into the quick disconnect. There is a bolt, nut and retainer clip that attaches to the disconnect housing to keep the cables in place.

NOW........

When someone needs a jump, THEY lift THEIR hood. You bring out your shiny new cables. Attach them to the quick disconnect on your bumper and lock into place. Attach the clamps to the other vehicle. And press the switch! BAM! You have a started car. Turn off the switch and you now have harmless jumper cables.

The only thing I will be adding now is a large LED light near the disconnect to let me know that the jumper cables are active.

[mobi-arc]

Looks good, but if you haven't already done so, suggest you solder the crimps....you'll not get enough compression to achieve a gasless joint and although soldering is a PITA, the decreased resistance and heat over-the-long-run is worth the effort.....bring you years of jumpstarting fun!

[NLXTACY]

You are right. Although there is no chance in hell that I am going to take this thing apart to solder it, I think its fine for the ACTUAL amount of use its going to get. But yes, in the future when I add a disconnect to the rear of the LX AND add the disconnect to the 60, I will be using the solder lugs next time and make my life a LOT easier.

[NLXTACY]

BTW for those that are curious, cost thus far is $600+

I say plus because I'm far from done.

[NLXTACY]

The basic wiring schematic

[fjfar80]

I hope that cost is including the extra battery...very cool setup...put another set together and I'll order one from you...

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by fjfar80

I hope that cost is including the extra battery...very cool setup...put another set together and I'll order one from you...

Sadly no

In the morning I will update the list with all of the part numbers and pricing. I DID actually order some stuff that wasn't used because I was trying to figure out what I wanted and well...its easier to visualize when you have the stuff in front of you.

I KNOW this wont appeal to 98% of the people on this board which is cool. I like being in the 2% crowd. What's funny is while I was creating the cables and such I kept fantasizing about quitting my job and just putting together "kits" like this and coming up with more nonsense.

Alas, I need money to keep doing fun stuff and I don't see a few dozen orders of these waiting in my mail box anytime soon

More accurate info to come. I need sleep first and I have another project to finish first.

[NLXTACY]

From the 60 section (but I think its very relavent here)

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

oh and how does it work if you need to be jumped? old school way or will your fancy thing work?

This is a very good question...

ASSUMING you don't have dual batteries...

OR you do and you still managed to kill both ...

Then this will NOT work for you. The reason is the starting vehicle needs to have the negative terminal connected and the dead vehicle needs to have the negative terminal grounded somewhere OTHER than the negative terminal. So wont work.

Already thinking of a solution.....

[Brian894X4]

That's a really cool set up. Extremely clean looking and I love the ratchet clamp for the quick connect. I've never seen one before with that design.

The only thing I wonder about is why have the solenoid disconnect the ground side of the battery? Why not the positive side? With the ground being disconnect, the positive lead to the jumper is still technically live since I assume the main ground of the battery to the vehicle is still hooked up and if the positive lead were to touch any metal part of your vehicle, it would short out. For example if you dropped the positive lead into your engine compartment while wrapping the wires up or something. Or if you have a metal bumper and the positive lead were to touch that, it would short.

Also, with that positive wire always being live and unfused, it's a potential source for a major short, such as in an accident. One thing you could do it move the solenoid closer to the battery, have it control the positive wire and then only a short section of positive wire between the battery and the solenoid would be live.

Or you should at least fuse that wire at the battery. WranglerNW has 200amp slowburn fuses that will work. I use it for my duel battery set up.

Edit: Oh wait, do you not leave the wires hooked up to the battery when not in use? If not, when what I said doesn't matter.

Nice job, though.

[jlbuk]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Already thinking of a solution.....

Surely all you need to do is jumper your solenoid to the (live powered from jumper vehicle) live jumper cable ?

[tewlman]

if you want to receive a jump and make your system even more expensive, why not add a 2nd solenoid that would take the negative side to a body ground. then if you needed a jump you would turn on that solenoid and you should be good to go.

FWIW, your setup is very similar to Cessna and other small airplanes. I always thought they were cool.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by jlbuk

Surely all you need to do is jumper your solenoid to the (live powered from jumper vehicle) live jumper cable ?

The solenoid is not conveniently located regardless if the hood is open or closed so it wouldn't really matter in this particular case.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by tewlman

if you want to receive a jump and make your system even more expensive, why not add a 2nd solenoid that would take the negative side to a body ground. then if you needed a jump you would turn on that solenoid and you should be good to go.

FWIW, your setup is very similar to Cessna and other small airplanes. I always thought they were cool.

Actually, I am thinking about just using a Perko switch to go from solenoid to ground. That should take care of it.

[OlBlueCJ7]

Why go to all that work to run such nice wiring & components, only to terminate it at a pair of cheap, low-amperage clamps?

How many amps does it take to charge a vehicle, btw? Is your 200a solenoid really up to the task? Hope someone doesn't try starting their vehicle while you're connected to them - you may end up welding your solenoid open.

Cool project though.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

The only thing I wonder about is why have the solenoid disconnect the ground side of the battery? Why not the positive side? With the ground being disconnect, the positive lead to the jumper is still technically live since I assume the main ground of the battery to the vehicle is still hooked up and if the positive lead were to touch any metal part of your vehicle, it would short out. For example if you dropped the positive lead into your engine compartment while wrapping the wires up or something. Or if you have a metal bumper and the positive lead were to touch that, it would short.

Also, with that positive wire always being live and unfused, it's a potential source for a major short, such as in an accident. One thing you could do it move the solenoid closer to the battery, have it control the positive wire and then only a short section of positive wire between the battery and the solenoid would be live.

Or you should at least fuse that wire at the battery. WranglerNW has 200amp slowburn fuses that will work. I use it for my duel battery set up.

Edit: Oh wait, do you not leave the wires hooked up to the battery when not in use? If not, when what I said doesn't matter.

Nice job, though.

No all the wires are designed to be permanently installed. I used the solenoid on the ground side because I saw some other systems that are kind of similar, although not used for this purpose, that shut off the ground.

There is no risk of the positive lead touching metal...unless there is a catastrophic car accident and at that point I have more problems than a battery shorting out. I also didn't fuse it because of current draw. I have never seen a fused set of jumper cables so I figured there was a reason for that.

There is also a locking dust cap that goes right into the housing that is really solid and that also keeps the positive post from touching metal.

Really the ONLY way to short it would be a serious accident.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by OlBlueCJ7

Why go to all that work to run such nice wiring & components, only to terminate it at a pair of cheap, low-amperage clamps?

How many amps does it take to charge a vehicle, btw? Is your 200a solenoid really up to the task? Hope someone doesn't try starting their vehicle while you're connected to them - you may end up welding your solenoid open.

Cool project though.

Yes the clamps were something I didn't like when I got them but I wanted to finish the project so I used them. I will be looking for better clamps later on down the road.

The solenoid is a 200A constant, 1000A in-rush.

BTW, I ran the project through Stan @ Wrangler and he said that a lot of fleet service vehicles do these types of set ups.

[TrickyT]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

...The reason is the starting vehicle needs to have the negative terminal connected and the dead vehicle needs to have the negative terminal grounded somewhere OTHER than the negative terminal. So wont work...

The reason for doing this is to avoid a spark near the battery when connecting up the cables, which prevents a possible explosion from accumulated hydrogen gas. You connect the ground on the dead car away from the battery as the last step and then any spark is far enough away that it doesn't ignite the gases. The risk of an explosion is low to begin with, but I have heard of it happening and think there was even a post here on mud by someone it happened to.

Assuming you've got enough charge left in your battery to energize the relay, you could use the switch in the dash to close the relay and complete the circuit and then any spark that occurred would be contained inside the relay and thus harmless. But if your battery is so dead that it can't energize the relay then this approach won't work and your current setup, as described, won't help you.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by TrickyT

The reason for doing this is to avoid a spark near the battery when connecting up the cables, which prevents a possible explosion from accumulated hydrogen gas. You connect the ground on the dead car away from the battery as the last step and then any spark is far enough away that it doesn't ignite the gases. The risk of an explosion is low to begin with, but I have heard of it happening and think there was even a post here on mud by someone it happened to.

Seen it myself twice in my life. Each time was well over 20 years ago back when ALL batteries had removable caps to check water level and such. So risk back then of gassing was high.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by TrickyT

Assuming you've got enough charge left in your battery to energize the relay, you could use the switch in the dash to close the relay and complete the circuit and then any spark that occurred would be contained inside the relay and thus harmless. But if your battery is so dead that it can't energize the relay then this approach won't work and your current setup, as described, won't help you.

Well this set up is fine for me, dual batteries solves that. I am constantly checking for current draw when vehicle is off so my batteries should last me a long time. Although I don't see the need, I think I am still going to add in a perko to allow being the jumper as well as the jumpee

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Wow, who knew there was so much involved with jumper cables. I like them and think you did a killer job. I especially liked the sheathing and ratcheting quick disconnect. Nice touches.

I do agree, that you need to find a better set of clamps though. They just don't look as nice as the other parts.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by 24HOURSOFNEVADA

Wow, who knew there was so much involved with jumper cables. I like them and think you did a killer job. I especially liked the sheathing and ratcheting quick disconnect. Nice touches.

I do agree, that you need to find a better set of clamps though. They just don't look as nice as the other parts.

I know, I am totally ridiculous but I love this kind of stuff

Yes, new clamps are on the way.

[TrickyT]

Is the hammer-style terminal crimper shown in post #2 from Wrangler NW or AirGas? I looked in the AirGas on-line catalog but couldn't find one listed. Got the part number? I assume that's what you used to crimp the lugs onto the cables shown in the second picture of post #1, but would appreciate it if you confirmed this. Although not as good as the crimps you get from more expensive hex die crimpers, the ones in the second picture nevertheless look pretty good.

[Brian894X4]

That 200 amp solenoid will work perfectly fine. I've used that same solenoid for the duel battery systems in both my truck and LC. I've started dead batteries off of them with no problem. I've even winched off of them.

I have had one go bad on me because it was defective, but they are otherwise a good product. I'd still consider fusing the positive side. 200A should be plenty. Especially with your set up. Maybe at the very least, you could consider wrapping the positive wire in heater hose for some extra protection. That's what I've done with mine for my duel battery set up.

I'm just a little extra cautous.

I think you mentioned something about running a line all the way to the rear. If so, then definately consider fusing that line, wrapping it up and putting a solenoid on it, if possible. Because that's one that could easily get frayed and make the LC go up in smoke.

[BlueHZT60]

Dang, I just did the same thing with my 60 & soon to the 80. I cheated. I ordered from Waytek - less expensive. I chopped an old jumper cable for the underhood to bumper run, I used inexpensive cable wrap, and swiped my jumper-plug extension out of my MaxAir compressor. It is amazing how all those parts add up, especially the circuit breakers, fuses and wire. Bob

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

The only thing I will be adding now is a large LED light near the disconnect to let me know that the jumper cables are active.

Interesting project, thanks for posting.

When you are installing the LED near the disconnect (good idea BTW) you should also install a red &/or green LED in the jumper cable end (the side you give to the guy you are jumping). You might be able to use one of those tri-color LEDs but the objective is to give the other guy a visual that he has correctly hooked up the cables to his vehicle. Green=good, then you can flip your switch to activate your side of the connection.

I built a similar set up for my truck using the Warn remote winch mounting kit. I added the polarity LEDs to both ends of my jumper cables.

-B-