[SWCruiser]

I have always thought that jumper cables are cumbersome and a pain to connect/ disconnect. Not sure I would spend that much to remedy the problem but nice work. It also reminds me of some of the military plugs I have seen for large trucks and tanks. I always wanted to pull one of these off and use it for the same purpose.

[Red Beard]

NLXTACY,
Why do you keep starting, flawlessly carrying out and cleanly finishing all the projects on my list that I would do if i had the money and time?! This is great work. I didn't know something like this would cost this much. I just thought you buy one of those wrangler things, hook it up and use the cables provided. Oh well, very nice job. When you're all done doing things I'd like to be doing, make a ROTW, I'd like to see it all together.

[pint]

NLXTACY - WOW, cool project. I'm jealous as hell of you guys that can engineer and build all this cool stuff!

[billmiranda]

Wow that's expensive. I did a similar thing with 1 GA cables about 7 years agon on my 4runner... No solenoid... just ran the cables through the grill and connected them up to the side terminals my battery came with... bolted the connector to the TJM bumper... and I was done. I can jump without opening the hood... adn no sparks get near the battery... ran me about $40 total.

To each his own I guess... been working since I made them. Transferring them to the LC next week.

Regards,
Bill

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by TrickyT

Is the hammer-style terminal crimper shown in post #2 from Wrangler NW or AirGas? I looked in the AirGas on-line catalog but couldn't find one listed. Got the part number? I assume that's what you used to crimp the lugs onto the cables shown in the second picture of post #1, but would appreciate it if you confirmed this. Although not as good as the crimps you get from more expensive hex die crimpers, the ones in the second picture nevertheless look pretty good.

Its from AirGas. Its not on their site but I called them on a whim because they do all welding supplies and it just seemed obvious. Its called a Hammer Indent Crimper. Unfortunately I need to find the actual part number. Threw out the packaging and all.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

I'd still consider fusing the positive side. 200A should be plenty. Especially with your set up. Maybe at the very least, you could consider wrapping the positive wire in heater hose for some extra protection. That's what I've done with mine for my duel battery set up.

I'm just a little extra cautious.

I think you mentioned something about running a line all the way to the rear. If so, then definately consider fusing that line, wrapping it up and putting a solenoid on it, if possible. Because that's one that could easily get frayed and make the LC go up in smoke.

I'm still not totally sold on the thought of fusing the positive side. Mainly because its such a short distance and because I've never seen a fused set of jumper cables. I'm thinking I'm ok but I dunno, more research may be needed.

I'm not worried about fray from either wires on this run. Its just such a small run and its tight in there. Nothing bounces around. Plus I have the sheathing on there now.

Now when I do the rear set up, I will definitely be adding a protective layer. Its just a really long run and there is more flex. Lots can happen in that run. I think I would also be more inclined to fuse the rear run over the front run. I am sure there is a solid reason for it but it just feels like the distance necessitates it.

Originally Posted by BlueHZT60

Dang, I just did the same thing with my 60 & soon to the 80. I cheated. I ordered from Waytek - less expensive. I chopped an old jumper cable for the underhood to bumper run, I used inexpensive cable wrap, and swiped my jumper-plug extension out of my MaxAir compressor. It is amazing how all those parts add up, especially the circuit breakers, fuses and wire. Bob

Ding ding ding. Hence the world's most expensive jumper cables.

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Interesting project, thanks for posting.

When you are installing the LED near the disconnect (good idea BTW) you should also install a red &/or green LED in the jumper cable end (the side you give to the guy you are jumping). You might be able to use one of those tri-color LEDs but the objective is to give the other guy a visual that he has correctly hooked up the cables to his vehicle. Green=good, then you can flip your switch to activate your side of the connection.

Holy cow poop! I got it!

I will add in the green/red LEDs as planned THEN I will wire it so that the in-cab switch will only allow it to engage if the green LED is lit. If the RED is lit, the switch itself is not engaged!!!

OK, now how to wire that.

Man I love making things more complicated for the sake of making them more idiot proof

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Red Beard

NLXTACY,
Why do you keep starting, flawlessly carrying out and cleanly finishing all the projects on my list that I would do if i had the money and time?! This is great work. I didn't know something like this would cost this much. I just thought you buy one of those wrangler things, hook it up and use the cables provided. Oh well, very nice job. When you're all done doing things I'd like to be doing, make a ROTW, I'd like to see it all together.

Haha, maybe we need to have a together and go over some future mods. I seriously have TONS of ideas...and I haven't even done armor or lift yet.

ROTW? Yeah, I think I am a long way from doing that. Someday. For now I enjoy doing these little projects and doing the write up about them.

Originally Posted by pint

NLXTACY - WOW, cool project. I'm jealous as hell of you guys that can engineer and build all this cool stuff!

Engineer? I am sooooo far from an engineer. I'm a web developer by trade. Although adolescence started with rebuilding engines at my Uncle's shop in Reseda called All Cylinder Heads. I've cleaned and assembled more heads/engines than I care to remember

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Red Beard

Mac Mini with 7" Touchscreen.

This makes me INSANELY jealous! I am a mac addict and I have been wanted to do this since the mini came out. I have been looking for a CLEAN Mini install write-up into the 80 and I haven't found one. Would love some input/leads!

[Red Beard]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I'm a web developer by trade. Although adolescence started with rebuilding engines at my Uncle's shop in Reseda called All Cylinder Heads. I've cleaned and assembled more heads/engines than I care to remember

Web Developer Aye, WHEN DO YOU QUIT TRYING TO TAKE MY STUFF. Hate to change the subject here, what kind of stuff you work with? Javascript, PHP, Java? CSS and Xhtml? We could have a COUPLE , talk about mods AND web development.

[Red Beard]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

This makes me INSANELY jealous! I am a mac addict and I have been wanted to do this since the mini came out. I have been looking for a CLEAN Mini install write-up into the 80 and I haven't found one. Would love some input/leads!

Yep, that's beers now.. gotta discuss the above 2 and the Mac Mini Install.
Mine is still a work in progress. The Mini is just kickin' around in the back, but it works and almost works flawlessly. It as interface-able as I wanted it to be... its hard to song.. especially for the passenger, but its totally awesome having a full fledged mac in your cruiser. I have Verizon Broadband, so if I have service, I can hit up the internet, check google maps (since i don't have GPS yet). Lots of cool stuff you can do, plus play millions of songs. we'll have to talk.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I love it

I had the same setup on my flatbed tow truck and have been planning on doing the same to the 80 cause it seems I use my current set of jumper cables to start other vehicles at least twice a week nowadays

And opening the hood on the side of the highway can be a chore due to the limbriser cables

I'll most lkely put it off until I start wiring up the winches

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I will add in the green/red LEDs as planned THEN I will wire it so that the in-cab switch will only allow it to engage if the green LED is lit. If the RED is lit, the switch itself is not engaged!!!

Over the top my friend.

I guess the guy could be colour blind and this switch disable circuit would prevent screw-ups but I stopped at the LED because I am not going to plug in their side unless it is green.

-B-

[Ebag333]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

I'm still not totally sold on the thought of fusing the positive side. Mainly because its such a short distance and because I've never seen a fused set of jumper cables. I'm thinking I'm ok but I dunno, more research may be needed.

I'm not worried about fray from either wires on this run. Its just such a small run and its tight in there. Nothing bounces around. Plus I have the sheathing on there now.

Jumper cables aren't fused because they aren't permanantly attached. And IMHO they should be, to prevent serious damage to the battery from shorting them. (A circuit breaker would be superior to a fuse, so you could just trip it rather than having to carry a supply of fuses.)

They aren't primarily because of cost (as I'm sure you know those circuit breakers aren't cheap).

Anything permanantly attached should be fused. Think about this for a second....you're running the jumper setup off your second battery, and your main battery is grounded to the body. There's a chance there (albiet extremely small) that you end up (at best) taking out both batteries, at worst starting your 'cruiser on fire.

Having 2nd hand experience (my pop's has been a firefighter for 27 years, and gone out on many a car fire) I'm extremely well aware that a large number of car fires are started from electrical shorts. Not taking the time to fuse it (as short as the run may be) is to me just foolish. Even if you spring for a circuit breaker instead of a fuse, compare that price to your 'cruiser (plus everything you've done on it).

Cheap insurance if you ask me.

[NLXTACY]

EBAG333, ok I see your point. Now this got me to thinking, so I went over to my local CHP (down the street) and asked to see how their cables were mounted. All CHP (CA Highway Patrol) vehicles have the same jumper cable quick disconnect. Well they have them set up direct wired to the battery. No disconnect and no fuse or circuit breaker. Thoughts?

[NLXTACY]

Here is what they use:
Galls® Permanent-Mount Booster Cables - VP266 : Galls

And $99.00!!!!!

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

can you tell me more about your button and maybe a pm for the quick disco if you would rather not publish it?

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by 24HOURSOFNEVADA

can you tell me more about your button and maybe a pm for the quick disco if you would rather not publish it?

Button? You mean the in-cab switch?

Quick Disco? Not sure what you're asking but I have no problems publishing anything here.

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Button? You mean the in-cab switch?

Yes, your in cab switch. But more specifically the graphics on switch.


Quick Disco? Not sure what you're asking but I have no problems publishing anything here.

And yes again, the ratcheting quick disconnect. On your parts list, it says optional, so I wasn't sure if you wanted to publish it.

Again, I think you did a killer job on those.

EDIT: I found the price on the link you provided. Thanks again.

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by 24HOURSOFNEVADA

And yes again, the ratcheting quick disconnect. On your parts list, it says optional, so I wasn't sure if you wanted to publish it.

Again, I think you did a killer job on those.

Whoops sorry about that. I edited the parts list to include the part numbers and the prices. But I think it was $32.00 for that locking latch. There are two pieces to the set.

The button is a hazard button. I saw two of them in the classifieds so I bought both. I used on for this project and I remove the detent in the other one to use on my garage door opener mod.

[NLXTACY]

By the way, for those of you also considering the locking mechanism. The reason I went with it was because it was something that was really easy for my wife to lock in with little effort. She had a really hard time getting the disconnects locked and unlocked without the mechanical latch. It wasn't impossible, just not smooth and easy. It was actually kinda hot watching her pelvic thrust the connector in.

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

By the way, for those of you also considering the locking mechanism. The reason I went with it was because it was something that was really easy for my wife to lock in with little effort. She had a really hard time getting the disconnects locked and unlocked without the mechanical latch. It wasn't impossible, just not smooth and easy. It was actually kinda hot watching her pelvic thrust the connector in.

This thread is useless without PICS

[NLXTACY]

hahahahahaha, I'd post but she was naked at the time...and lighting was bad...it was reflecting off the baby oil I was squirting on her and her friends.

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

hahahahahaha, I'd post but she was naked at the time...and lighting was bad...it was reflecting off the baby oil I was squirting on her and her friends.

'Nuff said.

[NLXTACY]

So I got to test out the cables once BEFORE I installed the new Hellroaring BIC. Operation went smooth and really easy. Having polarity LEDs would be nice. And wiring in a way to prevent the solenoid from turning on once the polarity LEDs were lit would also be nice. Just to stupid proof everything. Anyway, the dead battery in the 97 camry was dead in a parking lot. I loaded up the cables, attached them to her battery, turned on the solenoid and within two turn overs the car was started. I turned off the solenoid and everything was fine. No worries about getting the clamps too close to each or anything.

What I don't like about the jumper cables themselves is the cheap clamps I went with and the sleeving. It looks good but I hated it. felt as though the cables need a grip and the sleeving was just too slippery I guess. Too smooth. Now I saw the perfect solution, the zippered up sleeve found on TIG/MIG welders for the gas lines. Need to hunt those down.

So now lets move on to today. I now have the Hellroaring BIC installed. After Mike came to visit me in Yellowstone. Yes, THE Mike. He warned me about using my cable set up WITH the BIC system I am using. I am using the BIC-95150 and using it as STARTING SIDE ISOLATION. The reason I am doing this is because this way the alternator will favor the Aux. when charging AND because I am installing a back up for the main battery. A true back up, not an aux.

So problem is that when jump starting another vehicle using my set up, the BIC needs to be turned off. Now normally the entire reason you have the vehicle DOING the jumping to be on is so that you get battery AND alternator current to the offending battery to start it. This is common and normal. Problem is on my set up is that all that current is forced to go through the BIC. Not good!

Now if you are using Aux. Side Isolation with your BIC, not an issue. So Mike and I, ok Mike, figured out that the best way to utilize what I got would be to ground out the BIC. Thus turning it off. Then all current from JUST my aux. battery would be used to start the other car. Normally this is not ideal but works most of the time. Now for my application because of the type of battery I am using, Deep Cycle Odyssey, this is actually not an issue.

So, what I need to figure out how to wire is to ADD in a ground out (to turn off BIC) from the SAME in cab switch I have. Thoughts?