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Old 07-17-08, 10:45 AM   #1
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lolwer kingping bearing wear

hey guys,

I Noticed that during the last two knuckle rebuilds that the lower kingping bearing on the drivers side shows these markings:

any suggestions on what is causing this?

ps...sorry for the blurry pics.




thanks!

Kumar


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Old 07-17-08, 11:28 AM   #2
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My guess is the birf is contacting it, maybe from a worn spindle bushing? Look for a wear line around the birf bell.


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Old 07-17-08, 11:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools R Us View Post
My guess is the birf is contacting it, maybe from a worn spindle bushing? Look for a wear line around the birf bell.
I have two new spindle bushings in my hand right now When I took my knuckles apart both spindle bushings basically fell out of the spindles...the one with the bearing groove (drivers side) literally FELL OUT without any assistance.

I have some wear around the birf bell right now yes...however the passenger side does not show the same bearing pattern wear...and it too has some birf bell wear.

Granted the birfs are 200k old...Longs are going in this week.

I'm making a spacer up to remedy the birf rubbing with my Aisin hubs. However, I have the same bearing wear PRE-Aisin hubs (and no birf weare IIRC).

didn't know if I needed to adjust the trunion shims or not?

ktp


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Old 07-17-08, 12:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inacoma View Post
didn't know if I needed to adjust the trunion shims or not?

ktp
The shims don't affect where that bearing sits. No matter how many shims you have (or don't have), that bearing bottoms out in the race.


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Old 07-17-08, 12:07 PM   #5
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When the bushing gets badly warn the bell usually contacts the inside of axle housing ball, but as it wears the housing it can contact the bearing. It also depends on how/where it's shimmed, if a race is slightly deeper on one side, it would be easier to contact the bearing.

The shims adjust the axle centered in the housing seal, so with the parts your replacing there should be no need to mess with the shims, other than to make sure that you have preload. With your big tires it's good to have plenty of preload on all of the bearings, wheel and knuckle. At least set them at the tight end of spec, I would go tighter than stock spec for a stronger setup.


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Old 07-17-08, 12:18 PM   #6
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It almost looks like a tool contact. Do you use tools, like the ones shown in the FSM, to assemble?


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Old 07-17-08, 12:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools R Us View Post
When the bushing gets badly warn the bell usually contacts the inside of axle housing ball, but as it wears the housing it can contact the bearing. It also depends on how/where it's shimmed, if a race is slightly deeper on one side, it would be easier to contact the bearing.

The shims adjust the axle centered in the housing seal, so with the parts your replacing there should be no need to mess with the shims, other than to make sure that you have preload. With your big tires it's good to have plenty of preload on all of the bearings, wheel and knuckle. At least set them at the tight end of spec, I would go tighter than stock spec for a stronger setup.
Yeah, I plan on ditching the fish scale this time and doing th 10 ft/lb trick.

ktp


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Old 07-17-08, 12:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan View Post
It almost looks like a tool contact. Do you use tools, like the ones shown in the FSM, to assemble?
...not sure which tool would even come in contact with it

...that being said, the 160k mile bearing in the same location had deeper and longer grooves in it ... these bearings in the pic only have about 30k miles on them and have a bit shallower grooves.

i'm going to lean towards bushing being worn out (pre-lift is when I took the first bearing out...the one with deeper grooves...so i'm guessing that pre-lift (5 years ago!!)..that the bushing was worn then).

mystery...I used amsoil in my last rebuild, I'm going to use Shaefers on this one

ktp


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