[NLXTACY]

I am in the middle of adding dual batteries, three aux. fuse panels (one in engine bay, one under pass. seat, one rear of vehicle) and two inverters (one for the front console and one for the rear).

Now, what I WANT to do is just bring in 0/2 (pos/neg) from the aux battery to a single junction point (5/16" lug), one for pos and one for neg, under the center console. From there just attach smaller gauge lugged 8AWG cables to the front inverter, 6AWG to the rear inverter, and then 10AWG to the fuse panels. The problem is I am unsure about placement of the circuit breakers/fuses. The inverters "recommend" that the fuse/circuit breaker be 75A and as close to the pos terminal of the battery as possible. This means I will need to run two of them not to mention the ones for the fuse panels.

So is it ok to run the fuse/circuit breakers right after the junction point OR is it better to run individual cable? The next worry of course is that IF I have to run individual cable, it will be WAAAAAY too thick for the Driver's Side access point. Any other suggestions?

Yes I AM going for overkill. But I have to because I will be adding a decent stereo system, lights, fridge, rack, etc etc.

I can finish a bunch of loose end projects with just this information. I also have several FAQs in the works all waiting on this.

[NLXTACY]

By the way here's a teaser:

[Beowulf]

I have not wired an inverter so this is not an experienced opinion.

If it were mine, I would run the HD cable from the battery to the junction points (Pos & Neg). There would be a HD (e.g. Bussman style) fuse at the +12v terminal on the battery. The fuse size would be based on the HD wire size to the junction/fuse panel. In your example it looks like a 75amp fuse but I would go higher if I planned to add other circuits to that junction point. The 2/0 cable should handle 150amps easy but check the wire size charts to be sure.

I would run appropriate sized wire from the junction to the inverter and put a 75amp (per inverter specs) fuse at the junction point.

-B-

[Red Beard]

Nice photoshop. I think..
I've pondered the same thing many times. Its up to you. Its convienence. If one inverter shorts out, it'll short out the other one too, so it would be nice to keep them separate.
Your plan looks cool, though. Something I've been meaning to do. I've ventured into center console land many a-times..

[NLXTACY]

Oh no Photoshop there...although I am pretty good at it

Here's another teaser:

[NLXTACY]

Hmm yeah it would suck to have everything go down if one thing went down. So what about like a 250A at the battery then 0/2 to the junction stud in the console. Then several circuit breakers from there?

I am also weary about having everything is one long chain. If the first aux fuse panel drew too much current then it could turn off all the aux. stuff. No likey.

[Red Beard]

You should separate the breakers by things you need and don't need. A dvd player isn't need, but something like an fridge or lights could be need. Go by, if this breaker went while I was screamin down the highway no big deal until the next rest stop.
Definitely try to draw it out! It made my somewhat dual battery install easier. It makes you think more clearly. Use Pencil and paper.

[Red Beard]

awesome faceplate install, btw. In the picture, it looked photoshopped..

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Red Beard

awesome faceplate install, btw. In the picture, it looked photoshopped..

I'm that good

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Red Beard

You should separate the breakers by things you need and don't need. A dvd player isn't need, but something like an fridge or lights could be need. Go by, if this breaker went while I was screamin down the highway no big deal until the next rest stop.
Definitely try to draw it out! It made my somewhat dual battery install easier. It makes you think more clearly. Use Pencil and paper.

Ok so this brings me back to the question. Can I just use a large amp breaker at the battery, bring 0AWG cable to the center console to a junction block, tee off to smaller circuit breakers to the fuse panels, inverters, etal?

[Red Beard]

Now that i think of it, its probably fine. That huge breaker isn't going to break unless that wire shorts out. It'll provide plenty of power to all the things you need. One huge cable, WOULD be easier to run rather than a couple smaller wires.
Just make sure all your fuseboxes are easy to get to, which from the sound of it, they are. I put one under the center console, bad idea.
can't wait for the install to be done!

[NLXTACY]

Ok here is what I am thinking. 250A circuit breaker off the battery. This should be plenty to handle all the loads. Junction for pos and neg (as required for inverter). Then main cables off the junction will each be individually fused.

Again, my worry is that for some of the fuses I am not close enough to the battery as required by the inverters. BUT I am fused, albeit at 250A at the battery.

So you electrical experts out there, is this a fire waiting to happen or am I on the right track?

[sdnative]

You mentioned circuit breakers, but only show fuses in your diagram.


The fuses before the inverters seem to be a little small. Not 100% sure if the rating on the inverter is output power (I suspect it is), and what the losses are. Assuming 25% loss that would give you 1875W peak input power draw (~156A @12V) on the 1500W and 1000W (~83A @12V) on the 800W. Is this correct?

Of course this assumes your wire gauge is large enough. Your fuse size should be smaller than the current rating of the wire based on gauge and length.

Let us know how it works out. I am interested in doing the same thing.

[NLXTACY]

Ok sorry, the smaller inverter is actually 400W with 800W peak. The larger inverter is 1000W with 1500W peak. The fuse/circuit breaker selected is based on the manufacturer's recommendation. <!--EDIT: woops, just noticed I had 100A instead of 150A to the larger inverter-->

Here is a new schematic with the appropriate symbols and the wire gauge. I could not find a 250A circuit breaker so I am going with a MAXI fuse for that.

Again, if anyone sees anything that does not look right, let me know. I have all of the hardware already set up and mounted. I already have all the cabling and circuit breakers. Everything is installed expect the actual cabling because I wanted to make sure its correct.

[NLXTACY]

Not that it makes much of a difference but here is the power and ground distribution posts I wanted to use

[Izeloz]

Those are pretty nice looking junction blocks. Source? I am doing much the same thing in my cruiser. I used 1/0 wire. It's already all run. I just need to start adding things to it.

[NLXTACY]

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...0_1_Series.php

Most importantly....cheap!!!

[NLXTACY]

Another option I am considering:
https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...us/dualbus.php

[Grench]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Not that it makes much of a difference but here is the power and ground distribution posts I wanted to use

Those look just like the posts I used. They have worked well for me.

IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - FAQ addition: Dual Battery Set-Ups

YMMV.

[PabloVTA]

i want what you got...
buy two of everything and tell me how much I owe ya.

sweet setup. that console install is sano.
But what about heat?

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by PabloVTA

i want what you got...
buy two of everything and tell me how much I owe ya.

sweet setup. that console install is sano.
But what about heat?

Hehe, it would be awesome if it was all available as a kit and just install and go. Its taken a long time trying to figure out what works and what to use. Heat isn't an issue. I took the inverter apart so what you are seeing is just the front face. I extended all other wires. The FAQ I am doing will highlight all of that.

It took a LOT of trial and error to get the holes drilled correctly.

[Ivan80]

Your setup looks good (although I haven't done the math to check your fuse sizes, it seems like you did your homework and will be fine). You may want to use a fused distribution block similar to this one at the point where your large wire splits to the smaller runs.

Stinger SHD821 Car Audio 1 (1/0Ga Input) 4 (4Ga Outputs) Distribution

You can use unfused distribution blocks for the ground runs, or the post your showed earlier (which I also used in my alternator and wire upgrade).

Hmmm, makes me want to get going on the install of my audio gear.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

[NLXTACY]

Testing from my crackberry

[NLXTACY]

Just ordered some additional 1/0 cable. I am now adding in a disconnect to turn everything off and I should be good to go in about a week. I have not totally decided on the distribution point but I ordered the terminal studs for now to play with it to see what I think. I may upgrade it later to something like what IVAN80 listed.

[NLXTACY]

Ok I now have the newest stuff from Wrangler in. I got the pos/neg distribution points. I got 15' each of pos/neg 1/0 cable. I have lugs, megafuse holder, 250A megafuses (alays need a spare), got the hellroaring BIC, some 80A Blue Sea circuit breakers and other fun toys.

Now new problem...





How in the heck can I crimp lugs onto 1/0 cable? I don't have a vise, or even someplace to put a vise even if I got one. Is there anyone local to me (91367) that has a cable crimper or knows anyone that does it so that I can finish up this bad boy?

[BigMac]

NAPA has a couple of simple crimp tools - $40-60 range. Put the lug in a V groove beneath a punch die kind of thing, insert cable, whack it with a 3-5lb sledge. Not exactly elegant, but it works OK for the price.

If you are coming up to the central coast you can borrow mine.

BigMac

[hzavarce]

I had the same problem regarding the crimper. I started using these Solder Slugs and they work great. If you do it right it makes a very nice termination. I've used them for years with good results.

You can get them here: Automotive Wire, Terminals, Wire Loom

[NLXTACY]

I saw those when I started this project. But I feel MUCH safer using a mechanical joint in addition to the solder. Here is, what I think, would be ideal to use but freaking NO ONE local to me has this thing in stock!

[NLXTACY]

After searching everywhere locally, it was only Air-Gas that had this stupid thing. And to make it funnier its only $15.00 which makes its cheaper than ANYONE online. For those that want/need one its Radner Part # 64002046

[BenMara]

dull chisel and a hammer worked for me