Random stereo question... (factory "sub" with new head)

[Melovesha]

So i got my 80... drove it up 1200+ miles from florida to NY this weekend. replaced the stock head with scion t1807, and replaced the front speakers with Pioneer 1642s (stock front were shot).

Here's my question....

the "sub" in the trunk didn't/doesn't work. (speaker completely dead)

with the new head (factory amp disconnected) is there signal to that speaker? should I invest in replacing it, or let it die in peace?

Thanks!

[Lka1988]

Originally Posted by Melovesha

So i got my 80... drove it up 1200+ miles from florida to NY this weekend. replaced the stock head with scion t1807, and replaced the front speakers with Pioneer 1642s (stock front were shot).

Here's my question....

the "sub" in the trunk didn't/doesn't work. (speaker completely dead)

with the new head (factory amp disconnected) is there signal to that speaker? should I invest in replacing it, or let it die in peace?

Thanks!

The factory "sub" is totally useless. You'll get that a lot around these parts.

Replace it with a couple o' these:

[Lka1988]

However, some have had good success with the Kenwood KSC-SW1.

IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - Stock Location Mounted Powered Sub (bolt-on) and New Stereo

[Melovesha]

Originally Posted by Lka1988

However, some have had good success with the Kenwood KSC-SW1.

IH8MUD™ Forums - View Single Post - Stock Location Mounted Powered Sub (bolt-on) and New Stereo

Thanks.

Saw that one. Does that mean that there's still signal going to that hole? So I could put an actual speaker back there to counter all of the high signals from the trunk squeakers and rear doors?

[Lka1988]

Originally Posted by Melovesha

Does that mean that there's still signal going to that hole?

No. When you switch out the headunit, the "sub" will stop working. There's a lot of info on this. Search it up, see what you find.

So I could put an actual speaker back there to counter all of the high signals from the trunk squeakers and rear doors?

Personally, I wouldn't put a regular speaker back there, as it is only on one side. That would throw off the sound system's balance.

I actually tore out the rear-most tweeters, front-most tweeters, and the "sub", leaving only the 4 door speakers. I replaced those with Kenwoods and put two MTX subs in the back.

MUCH better than stock.

[Firedog]

[quote=Lka1988;3485927]No. When you switch out the headunit, the "sub" will stop working. There's a lot of info on this. Search it up, see what you find.


Hmmm.... When i replaced the radio in my 80 with the Scion unit the sub still worked. I had replaced it with a JL unit and the amp will barely drive it, but it works! lol I bought an used aftermarket amp to drive it, but i never got around to installing it (bought a used Celica and got too involved with it)

[jlbuk]

Maybe some geographical spec differences, but my sub was powered by a seperate min-amp (mounted by the sub), with a pretty weird connector going into the factory head unit (which apprears to be line level). If you want to use the factory sub (or sub location) just run a new wire and remove the old amp.

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

Hold on!

With a Scion 1807, your OEM sub WILL WORK.

That is, if the driver itself and the rear sub amp are in working order. And of course if you plugged in both of the gray plugs into the new Scion HU.

We put an 1807 into our 1995 Land Cruiser and the sub works fine.

By the way, we will have both the original sub amp and a BRAND NEW factory subwoofer for sale shortly, as we are continuing the audio project with a new setup back there. Let me know if you want to have a working sub setup and I'll save the components for you.

Dave

[Melovesha]

Originally Posted by 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine

Hold on!

With a Scion 1807, your OEM sub WILL WORK.

That is, if the driver itself and the rear sub amp are in working order. And of course if you plugged in both of the gray plugs into the new Scion HU.

We put an 1807 into our 1995 Land Cruiser and the sub works fine.

By the way, we will have both the original sub amp and a BRAND NEW factory subwoofer for sale shortly, as we are continuing the audio project with a new setup back there. Let me know if you want to have a working sub setup and I'll save the components for you.

Dave

Plugged with grey connectors. My driver is shot, not sure about the amp -- where is that one anyway.

if the stock sub/amp does something for the sound, i'm in.

on my old Saab, there was a gain and frequency adjustment on the stock 'sub' amp that could be played with if you took the amp apart...

and how the heck do you get the rear speaker out of there anyway?

thanks!

Larry

[Lka1988]

Originally Posted by 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine

Hold on!

With a Scion 1807, your OEM sub WILL WORK.

Serious?! I could have sworn up and down that it stopped working.

Originally Posted by Melovesha

Plugged with grey connectors. My driver is shot, not sure about the amp -- where is that one anyway...<snip>...and how the heck do you get the rear speaker out of there anyway?

The speaker/amp is one unit. A couple 10mm bolts, IIRC, and it comes right out.

if the stock sub/amp does something for the sound, i'm in.

It doesn't.

on my old Saab, there was a gain and frequency adjustment on the stock 'sub' amp that could be played with if you took the amp apart...

I'd be willing to bet that this could work with the stock sub amp. I haven't ripped into mine, though, so I don't know for sure.

[fzjconvert]

Originally Posted by 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine

Hold on!

With a Scion 1807, your OEM sub WILL WORK.

That is, if the driver itself and the rear sub amp are in working order. And of course if you plugged in both of the gray plugs into the new Scion HU.

We put an 1807 into our 1995 Land Cruiser and the sub works fine.

By the way, we will have both the original sub amp and a BRAND NEW factory subwoofer for sale shortly, as we are continuing the audio project with a new setup back there. Let me know if you want to have a working sub setup and I'll save the components for you.

Dave

My factory sub works fine and sounds great... In fact Ben (Elvis) one of your employees is the person that convinced me to buy an FZJ when I was looking for a 4Runner. He did however ask me why I bought a LX ( it was locked, the price was right) and I guess this is just one more benefit of the Lexus. I love my truck... Thanks to Ben again.... Even management is coming around!

Dave

[Melovesha]

Originally Posted by Lka1988

The speaker/amp is one unit. A couple 10mm bolts, IIRC, and it comes right out.

how do you get the rear panel off to get the speaker out?

[Melovesha]

Originally Posted by fzjconvert

My factory sub works fine and sounds great... In fact Ben (Elvis) one of your employees is the person that convinced me to buy an FZJ when I was looking for a 4Runner. He did however ask me why I bought a LX ( it was locked, the price was right) and I guess this just one more benefit of the Lexus. I love my truck... Thanks to Ben again.... Even management is coming around!

Dave

isn't the lexus system different from the Toyota one? (in particular, I have a '93)

thanks!

[fzjconvert]

Originally Posted by Melovesha

isn't the lexus system different from the Toyota one? (in particular, I have a '93)

thanks!

Yes! I had no idea when I bought it. The sub is in the center console and the speakers are better quality. However, I do not have rear most speakers like a lot of LC's do... I am not sure if the heads are different either. From what I can see in the LC FSM that I have, power wise, the only difference is mine says Lexus on it. If someone could clarify that would be great.

Dave

[Lockd97]

Chalk another one up for factory sub working with my scion HU.

[Lka1988]

Originally Posted by Melovesha

how do you get the rear panel off to get the speaker out?

There are clips lined around the edge of the whole panel. Get your fingers behind the top edge and pull LIGHTLY, it will pop out.

It might be tough to pull off for the first time, and may sound like something broke when it pops.

[4WD Toyota Owner Magazine]

Also one tip to help getting the rear interior panel off to access the sub is: remove the two closest screws that hold down the chrome floor strip. That will help give the plastic panel a little extra wiggle room.

Then it's three bolts to take off the sub/amp assembly. Remember to unplug the sub amp from the harness first!

As for sound, yes, the sub does its job. Not like a powered 12", but it does add bass.