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Old 07-10-08, 09:31 AM   #1
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Sick of Screwing up my Driveline...

Seems like everytime I go out I candy-cane my driveline.

This is the third time now I have to get it re-done and it is getting old at $100 a pop.

Can I purchase special 'Candy-Cane Resistant Tubing'?

Has anyone built a driveline guard? I saw one on a jeep I wheeled with a few weeks ago and it looked pretty slick.

Any ideeers? And don't tell me to stay off the rocks...







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Old 07-10-08, 09:38 AM   #2
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Is it bent or just scratched up?


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Old 07-10-08, 09:41 AM   #3
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If it is 120 wall tubing, then just leave it. I have done much worse and never twisted up the tube section.


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Old 07-10-08, 09:50 AM   #4
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If it is 120 wall tubing, then just leave it. I have done much worse and never twisted up the tube section.
wERD, mine looks 10 times worse with no issues,


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It shows how weak and underbuilt the 100 series is.

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Old 07-10-08, 10:09 AM   #5
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That actually WILL buff right out.


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Old 07-10-08, 10:12 AM   #6
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I did the same on my 40. Probably a little worse. I had no reservations about wheeling with it or driving with it like that, but it was annoying as hell having the driveshaft out of balance. My advice is to get some more aggressive tires (i.e. swampers), keep the pressure below 8psi, and you will not be able to tell that the shaft is out of balance on the road.


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Old 07-10-08, 11:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Is it bent or just scratched up?
Quote:
Originally Posted by calstyl2 View Post
wERD, mine looks 10 times worse with no issues,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atticus View Post
That actually WILL buff right out.
Hard to tell in the pic but the shaft does have a pretty good dent in it.

Bent? Not sure but I do get a hum on the highway.

I am more concerned with the vibration hurting my TC.


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Old 07-10-08, 11:34 AM   #8
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Your tc will be fine. It has a big mf bearing in the back.

How much do you drive this truck on the road?

btw, I don't think a hum is going to cause any damage at all. If it pisses you off enough, fix it.



As far as driveline protection goes... You could build a skid for it, but that would further decrease clearance, add weight, and possibly bend into the shaft if not built properly. If this is a common problem for you, I would get a shaft built with serious tube wall thickness. Maybe out of chromoly steel.


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Old 07-10-08, 11:46 AM   #9
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I built this as a traction bar but it has saved my front drive shaft a couple of times already. I am thinking of building one to protect the rear drive shaft. It's made of 1.5" DOM 1/4" thick steel so it can and does handle rocks. It sits just below the height of the drive shaft by design so that it protects the drive shaft.

I will be starting on the front diff protection tonight. I am going to bend some 3/4" pipe into four half loops that will be welded vertically to the top and bottom of the axle to protect the front diff cover and drain plug on the bottom. Should be easy and cheep to build and install.
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Old 07-10-08, 11:51 AM   #10
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I built this as a traction bar but it has saved my front drive shaft a couple of times already. I am thinking of building one to protect the rear drive shaft. It's made of 1.5" DOM 1/4" thick steel so it can and does handle rocks. It sits just below the height of the drive shaft by design so that it protects the drive shaft.

I will be starting on the front diff protection tonight. I am going to bend some 3/4" pipe into four half loops that will be welded vertically to the top and bottom of the axle to protect the front diff cover and drain plug on the bottom. Should be easy and cheep to build and install.
Why did yo uneed a traction bar on the front? Is that on a 60?


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Old 07-10-08, 12:14 PM   #11
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Got all your wheel weights on? I have a humm too and its tires, I have a pretty good crease in my driveline with no issues and have it stripped like a candy cane all the way down.


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Originally Posted by pagemaster
It shows how weak and underbuilt the 100 series is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvha8N3a28U
Mud orientation video
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Old 07-10-08, 12:32 PM   #12
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Got all your wheel weights on? I have a humm too and its tires, I have a pretty good crease in my driveline with no issues and have it stripped like a candy cane all the way down.
I have some small dents and a christmas stocking full of candy canes. I'd leave it alone until it gets bad. Mine is still smooth after one rebalance several months ago.

I bought a second rear shaft that I keep as a spare. It had been balanced and checked out by Six States when I bought it for $95. At some point, if I am messing up the rear enough, I'll just swap out the beater shaft for the tough trails.

It's either that or more lift and 37's/38's/39's...


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Old 07-10-08, 12:35 PM   #13
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Why did yo uneed a traction bar on the front? Is that on a 60?
I'm noticing a little leaf spring, not to mention that if the 80 had a rear driveshaft angle that steep it would need 12" of lift


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Old 07-10-08, 12:41 PM   #14
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That's a front DS in the pics.
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Old 07-10-08, 01:04 PM   #15
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I'm noticing a little leaf spring, not to mention that if the 80 had a rear driveshaft angle that steep it would need 12" of lift
Not to mention that the engine is bass ackwards.


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Old 07-10-08, 03:48 PM   #16
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Build a torque tube like the Mog?


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Old 07-11-08, 07:50 AM   #17
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You can put a hose clamp on your drive shaft over the dent for a field fix. Put it on snug, but not tight. You should be able to move it on the shaft with your hand. After you drive it for awhile the hose clamp will move and balance itself. The vibration should be gone. Once it does that just tighten it down.


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Old 07-11-08, 11:38 AM   #18
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You can put a hose clamp on your drive shaft over the dent for a field fix. Put it on snug, but not tight. You should be able to move it on the shaft with your hand. After you drive it for awhile the hose clamp will move and balance itself. The vibration should be gone. Once it does that just tighten it down.

Pretty tricky. Have you ever tried this?


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Old 07-15-08, 08:56 AM   #19
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Pretty tricky. Have you ever tried this?

Did it on a buddies Jeep three years ago when going through Swamp Lake. He is still running the hose clamp as of the last Tech Inspection.


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Old 07-15-08, 10:12 AM   #20
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just beef it up a bit...






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Old 07-15-08, 10:14 AM   #21
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Nice!!!


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Old 07-15-08, 10:42 AM   #22
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I have some small dents and a christmas stocking full of candy canes. I'd leave it alone until it gets bad. Mine is still smooth after one rebalance several months ago.

I bought a second rear shaft that I keep as a spare. It had been balanced and checked out by Six States when I bought it for $95. At some point, if I am messing up the rear enough, I'll just swap out the beater shaft for the tough trails.

It's either that or more lift and 37's/38's/39's...
I did something similar with my minitruck. I dented up the rear DS pretty bad. It wasn't noticeable at low speeds, but over 35 MPH, it was annoying to say the least. As a matter of fact, it made the wobble from my tires seem like nothing.

Anyways, I had a spare stock shaft lying around that I had retubed t for the double t-case length. I run that most of the time, and when I wheel the mini hard, I swap in the bent up shaft.

















Maybe rather than stay off the rocks, you should just pick better lines.


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Old 07-15-08, 12:09 PM   #23
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just beef it up a bit...





I loved my square shaft when I had a mini truck... Don't think it would work well on the 80!


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Old 07-15-08, 12:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
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You can put a hose clamp on your drive shaft over the dent for a field fix. Put it on snug, but not tight. You should be able to move it on the shaft with your hand. After you drive it for awhile the hose clamp will move and balance itself. The vibration should be gone. Once it does that just tighten it down.
Nice tip, I'll have to try this. I just made a new rear shaft for my mini-truck using 2.5" sched 40 and while it's pretty close to true, it could use a balancing. This sounds right up my ally for a trail-truck that sees road time in between trails.

Ary


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