HOW TO: installing a garage door opener into your 80

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:38 AM

Yes folks, I wanted to install the garage door opener as part of the vehicle instead of having it hang down from the visor. I didn't want to make access to my home that much easier and mainly...well I'm a big dork and I thought it would be cool. Someone else here did something very similar so I thought I would blatantly steal the idea and write up a How To.

Total time: 90 mins (but this was to figure out what I wanted to do)

Tools needed:
• Used warning/emergency lights switch
• Garage door opener (Chamberlain used in this example)
• Wire cutters
• Soldering iron
• Philips screw driver

I bought both warning light switches from SNOWCRUISER a few days ago and they came in today. So I got right to work to making this into my new garage door opener.

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:43 AM

The first step is to remove the socket from the switch (HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE A SOCKET). Then remove the actual switch from the housing. This is easily done by using a very small screwdriver to press in the tabs on the side. Then using that same screwdriver press the pins that are inside the socket. By pushing them into the socket it will push the whole switch out.

Once the switch is out, you need to remove the small, white, plastic detent. This magically transforms the on-off switch to a momentary switch which is what you want for garage door operation.

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:49 AM

Now take your garage door opener apart. All you need is the board and the battery. Everything else can be tossed. You will notice three micro switches. Two next to each other and the third spaced out further. That's the switch you want to use. Start by de-soldering the pins that hold it in. I only removed the two pins closest to the edge of the board but you can remove the whole thing with no issues.

You will then need to expose about .25" of wiring on the socket. Look at the photo to determine which wires you need. Now you will notice that the wires are actually too big to fit into the de-soldered holes. I removed about half the thickness of the wires to make sure it fit. Once it does, you can then solder in the wires to the board.

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:52 AM

Now remove the bottom trim shroud found under the steering wheel. Then also remove the trim that goes over the steering wheel. This is the piece that you will need to install the switch. ASSuming of course you are installing it there and not the front console.

Go ahead and remove one of the blanks and insert the board and switch.

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:58 AM

After the socket is in put in you will need to secure the board onto the switch now that its inside the trim. Obviously you cannot do this before or else you wont be able to get the switch in the hole.

I used both tape and zip tie. Yeah I am lame and couldn't decide which one I wanted so I used both.

Slide in the trim and button everything back. You now have a new garage door opener that some punk wont be able to steal out of your truck to gain access into you garage. Ask me how I know.

Now you have the two wires that are there for the light. I really want to get the light to work with the dash lights. So I am assuming that just one wire to ground and the other tied into the dash light switch should suffice. Anyone else have a better idea?

Also, this would be a fantastic time to ask:

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO RELABEL A SWITCH!?!?!?

I don't mean stick a label over it, I mean actually take off the old and design and label a new.

Enjoy!!!

Chevinater77 · 07-01-08, 06:46 AM

I love it, this could be great for faq! I wish i had a garage door opener!

Ruadhrigh · 07-01-08, 06:56 AM

very nice write up, and well executed

sseaman · 07-01-08, 06:56 AM

Thats a sweet write-up. This once again proves how not creative I am, I would have never thought of this.

No ideas on how to relabel. Is the triangle printed on the face of the button?

kup99 · 07-01-08, 09:40 AM

Awesome job!

GA Trevor · 07-01-08, 09:58 AM

Great Job, may have to try this one.

arndog123 · 07-01-08, 10:00 AM

Cool.

tblume · 07-01-08, 10:00 AM

WOW, that's cool. I would just leave it as is; super stealth with a twist of red herring garage door opener-hazard button! it's almost like a bat-cave button

ed97fzj80 · 07-01-08, 10:06 AM

Do the dash lights only come on when the ignition is engaged? In other words, will the opener operate with no key in the ignition?

Ruadhrigh · 07-01-08, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Now take your garage door opener apart. All you need is the board and the battery.

no key required

pint · 07-01-08, 10:20 AM

WOW...that is freaking cool! Nice work!

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 10:27 AM

Yes the red triangle definitely looks as if its silkscreened onto the button. I am thinking of using paint stripper BUT I am concerned that it may be too harsh for the plastic and start melting it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

No ideas on how to relabel. Is the triangle printed on the face of the button?

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 10:28 AM

Actually that is what my wife said to do last night. But I would get more

if I can find a way to relabel

Quote:

Originally Posted by tblume

WOW, that's cool. I would just leave it as is; super stealth with a twist of red herring garage door opener-hazard button! it's almost like a bat-cave button

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 10:31 AM

By "opener operate" do you mean lights or the opener itself? Because the opener itself isnt wired into the vehicle yet. So it works no matter what. Now if I want to wire up the light, and I do, then it needs to be wired in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ed97fzj80

Do the dash lights only come on when the ignition is engaged? In other words, will the opener operate with no key in the ignition?

Miescha · 07-01-08, 10:35 AM

But I thought part of the benefit is that the button is stealth. If you relabel it, you may lose that depending on the label.

I guess that begs the question, what do you want for a label?

Either way, very nice mod and excellent write-up.

Just to be clear, the cruiser does not power the opener - so you will need to have access to change that battery occasionally, correct?

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miescha

But I thought part of the benefit is that the button is stealth. If you relabel it, you may lose that depending on the label.

I guess that begs the question, what do you want for a label?

Yes that is true, but all I wanted to do was make an icon, not lettering saying its the opener.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miescha

Just to be clear, the cruiser does not power the opener - so you will need to have access to change that battery occasionally, correct?

OK for now that access is just removing the trim which seriously takes like 3 minutes. NOW I HAVE been looking for a method to reduce the power from 12v to 3v to actually wire it into the truck. Everything I have seen on Google shows a big ole' brick to reduce power to 3v. If anyone else has a suggestion I am willing to guinea pig myself

Ruadhrigh · 07-01-08, 11:37 AM

in my opinion you should leave it battery powered. hook up the 12v for the button lights, but how often do you have to change that battery?

as for the button label use this as inspiration:

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 11:59 AM

****downloading bat signal now.....*****

I have to change my remote battery once every two years or there about. As far as any change in range now that its in the dash instead of on the visor:

I put in a fresh battery in the unit I made and the spare remote we have:
• At 25ft. both work fine
• At 50ft. both work fine
• At 75ft. the spare works fine and the new unit may take a few clicks before it reaches the garage
• At 100ft. the spare works only if its a direct shot, the new unit doesn't hit at all

For me this is perfectly fine being as I dont hit the remote until I can physically see the door anyway.

YMMV

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruadhrigh

in my opinion you should leave it battery powered. hook up the 12v for the button lights, but how often do you have to change that battery?

as for the button label use this as inspiration:

alia176 · 07-01-08, 12:42 PM

dang, that's geeky AND cool!

Miescha · 07-01-08, 12:44 PM

This has me thinking (doesn't happen often says the wife).

As I have two different doors that I need to open, but don't want to use precious button space in the cruiser for two button, perhaps I could use a factory antenna switch that is already designed as a momentary switch and have one side operate door 1 and the other side operate door 2. If I use a dual-button transmitter, I wouldn't have to worry about the space needed for two circuit boards to be taped/zip-tied under the dash.

I'll have to source a switch and give it a try!

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 12:54 PM

I can already tell you it will work. I pulled out my antennae switch because I have no plans to ever use that stupid antennae again. When I put the meter to it I could easily find which wires I needed in order to complete the circuit.

I had already checkout out our really old dual button remote from our old house. Its almost the same set up and just as easy to find where to solder in the switch.

The only reason I didn't actually do this first is because we now only have one door and nothing else to open with the second button so I said screw it and bought the hazard switches and played with it.

Its extremely simply though and the board is the same size and it installs the same way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miescha

This has me thinking (doesn't happen often says the wife).

As I have two different doors that I need to open, but don't want to use precious button space in the cruiser for two button, perhaps I could use a factory antenna switch that is already designed as a momentary switch and have one side operate door 1 and the other side operate door 2. If I use a dual-button transmitter, I wouldn't have to worry about the space needed for two circuit boards to be taped/zip-tied under the dash.

I'll have to source a switch and give it a try!

slimbuddha · 07-01-08, 01:07 PM

Pretty sweet... I considered getting one of the "homelink" systems from one of the newer model Toyota's and trying to connect it up, but this seems easier.

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 01:12 PM

ding ding ding

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimbuddha

Pretty sweet... I considered getting one of the "homelink" systems from one of the newer model Toyota's and trying to connect it up, but this seems easier.

Arya Ebrahimi · 07-01-08, 01:29 PM

Since you're saying the signal is a bit weaker with the board under the dash, I wonder if you couldn't extend the wires and stick the board up in the headliner near the rear view mirror and keep the switch in the dash. Just a thought. Really love the enginuity on this board!

NLXTACY · 07-01-08, 01:35 PM

You absolutely could!

But I'm not

IF the slightly reduced remote does wind up bothering me enough I will look into extending its range. I'm sure there is some type of built in antennae that I can tap into and extend its range.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi

Since you're saying the signal is a bit weaker with the board under the dash, I wonder if you couldn't extend the wires and stick the board up in the headliner near the rear view mirror and keep the switch in the dash. Just a thought. Really love the enginuity on this board!

Atticus · 07-01-08, 01:39 PM

This is insane.

Edit: I don't necessarily mean that in a bad way.