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LinkBack (3) | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#31 |
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We Have Assumed Control
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 330
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Excellent!
I have the materials needed at home and when I get there this is my evening project!
Great work! __________________ Scott- 97 40th S/C'd Landtank MAF WBO2 Locked CDL OME 850/860's shocks NITTO's air bags heated seats 98 Tacoma S/C'd w/fuel mods piggyback'd |
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#32 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 105
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Let me know when you figure out where to install the switch for the bullet proof shield, ejector seat and machine guns, Q. - James Bond.
Nice work, Quartermaster. This looks like a fun project! Nice work. |
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#33 | |
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Parts Shaman (per Romer)
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This is really clever tho. I have used Word and mailing lables to re-label switches. __________________ Original owner 93 FZJ80,locked,blown,water/methanol injected(like a WWII fighter aircraft),lifted,winched,snorkeled,slidered,Sleeed ,moneypit. Balanced on a pin head. 95 FZJ80 trail truck (hers), 94 FZJ80 320K with a knock and a lumpy old Dodge car.
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#34 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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hey Dan, I read how you did the re-labeling but with this there would be a red tinge due to the existing label. I am thinking about getting some more cheapo switches to experiment with.
For this particular one I may just keep it as is to be more stealth but for my planned use for the second one I would want it to be labeled correctly. That FAQ coming soon as well! ![]() __________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#35 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 198
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This is one of the coolest mods I've seen! Way to think outside the box...I put my remote underneath the armrest using velcro for the same reason you mentioned keeping it out of sight...your idea is waaay more stealth...
__________________ '96 FZJ-80 - 143K, Factory Lockers, 285/75/R16s Firestone Destination M/Ts, LandTank seat extension, dual battery, 2m/70cm... |
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#36 |
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IH8MUD Junior
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I relabled 2 defroster switches for lockers, an antenna & hazard switch for my winch, and a rear heater switch for my OBA. All you have to do is carefully stick the edge of a razor blade straight into the edge of the existing symbol plate & slowly pry it out.
On the ones I did, the symbol is painted on the back side. I pushed that side against a piece of emery cloth & sanded it down to the clear plastic. Then I had a local sigh shop print new lables I made up out of the stickers they use to make lighted buisness signs (on clear or white sheet), stuck it to the outside of the plastic, trimmed, and used the thin double sticky tape or a dab of RTV to put it back into the switch. Only problem I have is they are currently white lights, not green. Need some of those green rubbers
__________________ Greg '91 FJ80 315/75/16s, OME Heavy/Med lift, 2" Vorfab front spring plate spacers, Dual Batts, Tucked/toughened ARB Bull Bar, 9000 lb T-max, Home brew rear bumper W/2 swingouts, Bored throttle body, '94 FF rear axle, ARB LockeD F&R, 100 Amp Delco Alternator conversion, Dual ODA Electric & Sanden |
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#37 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Ok small update.
Wife came home today and all of a sudden the remote would only work if you were either inside the garage (to get out) or just outside of it (to get in). I checked the power on the battery, it was under 1.0V. I had thought that maybe the battery cage of the remote was maybe touching metal and thus shorting out and draining the battery. Turns out its not the case. So I tested the second battery that came in the case, 1.3V. Hmm... So I dig in the trash for the packaging the batteries came in. They had an expire date of April 07. HAHAHAHAHA! So off to get new batteries and all is well again. I did a little research and I have learned that randomly extending the antenna is a bad idea. Yeah there is the whole FCC thang, but more importantly because the "new" extended antenna will no longer be tuned to the device and thus wont work. Sure you COULD use a SWR meter on it but I would have zero clue how to tune it. __________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#38 | |
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(pronounced rod-ree)
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very resourceful. without pics though, I call BS
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#39 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
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That is a cool mod! Gonna have to do it!
__________________ "You Can't Fix Stupid" SC Toyota Stable: 78 FJ40 96 4-Runner (Now belongs to my 16 yr old Son) 97 FZJ80 ARB, CDL, Pin 7 mod |
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#40 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Queens, NYC and sometimes Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,152
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Very cool
![]() I was planning on doing sumthin similar using tire pressure swiches I nabbed from Corolla rentals
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#41 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Posts: 1,974
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if you are going to bother to extend the switch wires, why not mount the board & battery into a small project box or tupperware and put it behind the grill, in front of the radiator. That should give you great range.
As for how to power the board w/ 12v... it depends on how particular the board is, but you could just wire in two 3v leds in series for a total voltage drop of about 12v. __________________ 91 fj80 w/ 93 1HD-T. OME 850/860 w/ 1" front spacer, LEDs, HIRs, Hankook MT's 31x10.50r15, Tuffy center, ARB rear locker (in progress), in garage: lightforce lights, full rack, superwinch X9, maggiolina tent, hella horns. WTB: Tan DS mirror & housing '88 HJ60, "Louie" For Sale in Costa Rica.
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#42 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Well, this is actually my project for tonight. I got a small plastic box yesterday so I think tonight I will be moving the location to the grill area. Its fine where it is but it could be better. Being as I am going to move it again I am going to just keep the battery in it and no bother with direct wiring it for power.
Quote:
__________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#43 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 20
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![]() this is probably the coolest and easiest mod I have seen. I already went to Home Depot and bought a spare opener and a momentary on switch that fits perfectly in the spare hole right below my key....tested it out...and just need to solder it and mount it.
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#44 | ||
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 334
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Quote:
![]() Don't wire it the way you talked about above. Here's an excert from the EWD: It should be fairly straightforward. You can use Scotchlocks or strip, solder, & heat shrink, that's been discussed elsewhere. ![]()
__________________ DonalQuote:
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#45 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Haha sorry about that. As soon as 450DUDE put the listing up I had already emailed and spoke to Zach. Its going to a good home, I promise!
![]() ![]() __________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#46 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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So I am just connecting the T and L pins on the rheostat? Looks easy enough. And yes, it's literally right next to it.
__________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#47 | ||
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 334
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Quote:
All other lights in that circuit are wired that way, with power from the "tail" fuse and ground controlled by the rheostat. __________________ DonalQuote:
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#48 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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*****UPDATE******
Sooo, I started messing around with this thing some more because I was really unhappy with the decreased range AND it was intermittently cutting out and only giving a 10ft range. Basically meaning I had to be next to the door before it would open.
Because as it takes literally 3 minutes to remove the plastic trim, I decided to take the switch out and perhaps change its location. I thought about moving it above the rearview mirror but I really didn't want to deal with the headliner. So instead I bought a really cheap project box my local electronics store. I did NOT want to use the opener case it came in because I didn't want it recognized. So I took the first switch I made and took it back apart. This time running two 18 gauge wires to the front grill of the truck. I used Molex connectors on the switch to make it easily removable. I then soldered the two wires to the board again. It doesn't matter which wire goes where, all you are doing is completing the circuit. Once it was soldered I used double-sided foam tape to stick the opener to the inside of the project box. I then used an alcohol pad and clean off the side of the driver's side headlight housing (it was flat) and used double stick tape to attack the project box to the headlight housing. I decided to use double-sided tape because I would be replacing a battery only once every year or so. But you can come up with your own attachment solution. __________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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#49 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Once that was fine and tested, I then decided that it really didn't matter that there was a house icon on the switch because the truck is always garaged AND the remote is hidden. I just did up a quick "HOW TO" for relabeling the switches:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-switches.html Sorry about the crappy photos.
__________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! Last edited by NLXTACY; 07-07-08 at 10:54 AM. |
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#50 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 105
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Quote:
This LC fetish is getting expensive... |
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#51 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 58
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What a coincidence as I installed the homelink option from a 2000 LX470 into my 1998 LC100 just yesterday. It took me a screwdriver, a wire stripper, some black tape and about 15 minutes and it looks like it came that way from the factory. Since there is no power molex connector as it was never an option in 1998, i just tapped into the overhead light switches which have constant power. Works like a charm and it's hooked right into the car battery so it never goes dead.
Greg __________________ 1998 LC100 White Stock 1987 Grand Wagoneer 401/727/NP208/D44's 6" BJ's Lift Kit, TFI Ignition Upgrade BJ's F&R Dozer Bumpers 35x14.5x15 Boggers MM H10500 Hydraulic Winch & Hubs F&R Aussie Lockers http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y174/bANGr/ |
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#52 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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I guess I should clarify, I ordered 2pin and 4pin Molex connectors off the internet to use for such jobs.
__________________ 70 FJ40-sold, worst day of my life 79 TOY 4WD pup-stolen, 2nd worst day of my life 91 4Runner 4WD-burned to ground, 3rd worst day of my life 83 FJ60- suckiest day of my life 97 LX450, 221k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Factory rack removed ![]() ふざけんなよ! |
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