A/C - replacing compressor, condenser and dryer

rhyary · 06-27-08, 07:24 AM

Hi,
I am about to open the A/C system to replace the three components.
The compressor makes grinding noises like the bearings are shot.
The condenser is leaking (not from the o-rings)
The dryer is 12 years old.
In ideal world I will be putting a vacuum machine and suck what ever is left of the 134a and oil. Replace parts, suck air out and replenish 134a and oil to specs. But I am not in ideal world situation; it is going to be in my driveway work.
My plan is to replace the components, fill with some 134a (the can with that comes with oil) and at some point get to a service station and do it right, putting it on a vacuum machine and correctly putting 134a and oil to specs.
My question is this: Will I be causing immidiate damage to the new components. If not how many days can I run it as is.
Thanks to all
Rami

WarDamnEagle · 06-27-08, 08:13 AM

By all means, do all the work yourself but I wouldn't charge or run the system until you had a vacuum pulled on it (to dry it) regardless of who charges it. I think you could damage your system but I'm not an automotive A/C expert.

e9999 · 06-27-08, 11:42 AM

don't know what immediate damage having air will do to your system, but I would surmise it is not good.
An A/C gauge, hoses and manifold system will run you about $40 at HF. A vacuum pump can be as little as $20. Probably all the main tools you need to do the job right. Sell those for 1/2 afterwards if you're hard pressed for $ and it cost you $30 to maybe save your new compressor...

Izeloz · 06-27-08, 12:14 PM

Autozone rents all those tools for free (including the vacuum pump).

rhyary · 06-27-08, 01:34 PM

Thanks. I will check with auto zone in my area.

rhyary · 06-27-08, 02:44 PM

I have manifold gauges set and vacuum pump coming from HF.
Autozone does not rent those anymore in my area.

Where on the truck do I connect the vacuum hose?
I located the low and high pressure quick connect.
There is also another quick connect on one of the lines.

Since I have a leak in the condensor I don't have to worry about discharging the system.
So my procedure is, replace the compresor, condenser and dryer.
Attached vacuum pump to (?)
turn on pump and wait for vacuum per pump direction.
turn off pump, now I have a vacuum in the system.
Fill with R134a (which I did few times already)

Am I correct?

TIA
Rami

Scamper · 06-27-08, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhyary

Where on the truck do I connect the vacuum hose?

You connect the red and blue lines to the high and low pressure ports on the compressor. There should be a yellow line to the manifold that you then hook up to the vacuum pump. Once the system is evacuated, you turn on the pump and open both the high and low side valves. I suggest you run the pump for at least a half hour once you're down to 30" vacuum.

Quote:

Since I have a leak in the condensor I don't have to worry about discharging the system.

Do be sure sure about that. You may have leaked out MOST of the freon, but there may still be some in there and if you just pull a line off, you may get a face full of oily freon mist. Best to hook up the manifold set and bleed the system from it.

rhyary · 06-27-08, 03:45 PM

Thanks Tom,
The manifold set does indeed has the yellow lines.
So, if I connect the high and low pressure lines, from which hose/opening am I to evacuate the system?

TX Cruiser · 06-27-08, 08:58 PM

Flush the system. There is no need to trash the new compressor by not getting the metal shavings out of the lines first. If it's the clutch bearing you won't have to worry about the shavings, but you still will not have an accurate method of measuring how much oil is left in the rest of the system. Unless you know of a method that I don't, you will have no idea how much oil you need to put in the replacement compressor. You could measure the amount of oil that is in the compressor and condensor, but you can't measure what escaped from the leak on the condenser.

You need to do this right. The shop that you take it to afterwards will have to take the compressor off, drain it and flush the lines to get the proper oil charge anyway. If you are going to leave it to them to guess how much oil needs to be added, then be warned that your a/c system might not last very long.

Your system needs 4.1 ounces of oil (pag 46 will work nicely in place of ND oil 8 that Toyota recommends) and 1.88lbs of 134a. The guages will help you dial it in so that it will blow out popsicles, if you desire.

I'm in the automotive a/c business.

rhyary · 06-28-08, 05:43 AM

TX Cruiser,
Thanks for being helpful. How do I flash the system?
I am doing the work myself no in a shop. This is the point for asking how-to. So any helpful tips will help doing the job right.

Do you agree with my procedure?
First I plan to replace all the components. Do you suggest I flush the system before I replace the components? After? when the system is closed? pipes are open? Flush it with what? Using what tool?

My understanding is the vacuum pump is placed on the system when the system is empty for oil and 134a. How do I get the sytem to be empty beside opening the lines?

For being somene in the profession I appriciate your guidance

According to the note that came with the compressor it is already full of oil.
The unit I got from Cdan is the compressor and the clutch already assembled.

Rami

TX Cruiser · 06-28-08, 06:50 AM

The a/c flush you can get at the auto parts store. If you have a cylinder that you can put the liquid flush in, you can fill it and hook up to your air compressor hose (the one for your air tools) and blow it through the lines while your compressor, dryer and consenser are off the car. The new condenser will be clean unless you have bought a used one. Blow the flush through every line, if you want you can catch it to see how dirty it is. The lines going to the evaporator are somewhat tricky but you can easily figure it out. What you would like to do is a back flush, meaning blowing flush through the low side hose (fat one) and out the high side which is opposite the direction of travel when working. Here's the tricky part, the flush/air is going to come back at you when the pressure builds up in the expansion valve and the high side is not covered. What you need to do it have your thumb over the high side hose/line and blow in the low, you'll feel the pressure building, then release your thumb, do this several times. Once you have a good amount of flush in the evaporator and lines, go with straight air following the same procedure and don't quit until the lines are clear of all fluid. I recommend you wear safety glasses when doing this, it does take practice and you could get an eye full of flush, which won't kill you, but does sting like hell.

When I did my own land cruiser, I used about 1/2 gallon of flush, but then again I'm kind of meticulous when it comes to my own cars. You could probably get away with using a 1/4 gallon of flush. I'm not sure about the aeresol cans, I have never used that type of flush, but I'd run air behind it to clear the lines, you may have to anyway, but I'm not sure. The stuff I use is called a/c blow out and I buy it in 1 gallon jugs, it may or may not be sold in smaller amounts.

You need to replace all the o-rings where you have opened the system, and it's a good idea to replace all of the ones in the system, but it's certainly not necessary. I'm sure you knew that though. As for the oil, if Dan says it has the recommended amount of oil in the compressor, then that is all you need and don't let the a/c shop tell you that you need more when you take it to them. In fact tell them not to add any oil. It's a good thing that you are considering flushing the lines now, as there would have been too much oil in the system when you finshed your work, and too much oil hinders the cooling capability.

Let me know if you have any problems, I'll be happy to answer any questions.

flintknapper · 06-28-08, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX Cruiser

Flush the system. There is no need to trash the new compressor by not getting the metal shavings out of the lines first. If it's the clutch bearing you won't have to worry about the shavings, but you still will not have an accurate method of measuring how much oil is left in the rest of the system. Unless you know of a method that I don't, you will have no idea how much oil you need to put in the replacement compressor. You could measure the amount of oil that is in the compressor and condensor, but you can't measure what escaped from the leak on the condenser.

You need to do this right. The shop that you take it to afterwards will have to take the compressor off, drain it and flush the lines to get the proper oil charge anyway. If you are going to leave it to them to guess how much oil needs to be added, then be warned that your a/c system might not last very long.

Your system needs 4.1 ounces of oil (pag 46 will work nicely in place of ND oil 8 that Toyota recommends) and 1.88lbs of 134a. The guages will help you dial it in so that it will blow out popsicles, if you desire.

I'm in the automotive a/c business.

Spot on! Here is someone who knows A/C.

rhyary · 06-28-08, 08:05 AM

I have new o-rings.
The compressor has the oil, so that is all the oil I need in the system?
I thought it is only the amount of oil the compressor holds.
I have new condensor and new dryer per my earlier post.
I'll call around to see if I can find a/c flush

Thanks again. I am about to go outside and start taking things apar. So as I go, I might have more questions.

Rami

flintknapper · 06-28-08, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX Cruiser

The a/c flush you can get at the auto parts store. If you have a cylinder that you can put the liquid flush in, you can fill it and hook up to your air compressor hose (the one for your air tools) and blow it through the lines while your compressor, dryer and condenser are off the car. The new condenser will be clean unless you have bought a used one. Blow the flush through every line, if you want you can catch it to see how dirty it is. The lines going to the evaporator are somewhat tricky but you can easily figure it out. What you would like to do is a back flush, meaning blowing flush through the low side hose (fat one) and out the high side which is opposite the direction of travel when working. Here's the tricky part, the flush/air is going to come back at you when the pressure builds up in the expansion valve and the high side is not covered. What you need to do it have your thumb over the high side hose/line and blow in the low, you'll feel the pressure building, then release your thumb, do this several times. Once you have a good amount of flush in the evaporator and lines, go with straight air following the same procedure and don't quit until the lines are clear of all fluid. I recommend you wear safety glasses when doing this, it does take practice and you could get an eye full of flush, which won't kill you, but does sting like hell.

When I did my own land cruiser, I used about 1/2 gallon of flush, but then again I'm kind of meticulous when it comes to my own cars. You could probably get away with using a 1/4 gallon of flush. I'm not sure about the aeresol cans, I have never used that type of flush, but I'd run air behind it to clear the lines, you may have to anyway, but I'm not sure. The stuff I use is called a/c blow out and I buy it in 1 gallon jugs, it may or may not be sold in smaller amounts.

You need to replace all the o-rings where you have opened the system, and it's a good idea to replace all of the ones in the system, but it's certainly not necessary. I'm sure you knew that though. As for the oil, if Dan says it has the recommended amount of oil in the compressor, then that is all you need and don't let the a/c shop tell you that you need more when you take it to them. In fact tell them not to add any oil. It's a good thing that you are considering flushing the lines now, as there would have been too much oil in the system when you finshed your work, and too much oil hinders the cooling capability.

Let me know if you have any problems, I'll be happy to answer any questions.

Again, excellent advice!

Here is link to flush kit that the average DIYer can use to clean their A/C system:
Mastercool 91046-A - Flush Kit Assembly A/C

Anyone flushing their own system needs to have a good source of compressed air...(and an area they don't mind getting messy).

If there are any lines that have a manifold or filter...they must be replaced (they will not flush). All other lines, Condenser, Evaporator, etc...can be flushed just fine. Never attempt to flush your "compressor" though. The only way to do that is by using the same oil you will be using to lubricate the system (rarely worth the trouble on an old compressor).

Always pump down your system anytime it has been opened, use "nylog" on all your fittings (where O-Rings are) and you should have a good running system when you're done.

flintknapper · 06-28-08, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhyary

I have new o-rings.
The compressor has the oil, so that is all the oil I need in the system?
I thought it is only the amount of oil the compressor holds.
I have new condensor and new dryer per my earlier post.
I'll call around to see if I can find a/c flush

Thanks again. I am about to go outside and start taking things apar. So as I go, I might have more questions.

Rami

I don't how Toyota does things, but generally you would be correct. The only sure way to determine what amount of oil needs to be added is to know how much is in the compressor.

You could drain the oil and measure it. Subtract that amount from the recommended amount for the entire system to find how much more you need to add.

Since you will have the system open already you could add that amount of oil to the Condenser and Dryer. If you don't want to drain the compressor (but I would), then you'd probably be safe adding 1oz. to the condenser and about 1/4oz to the dryer.

The refrigerant is what carries the oil everywhere it needs to go, but I like to have it "distributed" anytime you have a system apart and can do so.

e9999 · 06-28-08, 01:38 PM

TX C: how critical is the amount of oil in the system? I have a minor leak (add a can every year or 2) and I have used a can with (2oz? from memory) of oil. Of course, I have no way of knowing how much I had lost. So no idea how much in there now. I imagine too much oil is better than not enough, right? Thoughts?

rhyary · 06-28-08, 01:55 PM

Success.
I got in the morning A/C flush bottle from Auto parts store and a flush gun from Homedepot.

I flushed only the lines that I had a part, not the whole system since I did not want to open the hoses by the firewall and the flush gun would not mount exactly to the opening of the hoses.

Everything is put together. I put in one can of 134a to get the system to turn on the compressor and to check for obviouse mistakes/leaks. Everything works and no apparant leaks. The truck is very quite with the new compressor/clutch. This car drive like a million bucks.

when I get the vacuum pump from HF, I will evacuate the system, vacuum it and add the correct oil and 134a.

I will not be driving it until I get the vacuum pump since we are going away to a wedding with my wife's car.

Thanks for all the helped
Rami

TX Cruiser · 06-28-08, 06:07 PM

I lose.

rhyary · 06-28-08, 07:33 PM

TX Cruiser,
Not sure what you mean but I have done what I can given my knowledge, equipment and circumstances.

The one area I am still not sure about, and hope you can help me with, is the evacuation.
I have now what I had before but with new parts. Before and now I did not know how much oil was in the system. So one way to be sure is to empty the A/C system form oil and 134A and put in known quantity.

How do I emtpy A/C system before I put it on vacuum?
My assumption is that evacuate the system and vacuum are two different things that happens in sequence.

Rami

flintknapper · 06-28-08, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e9999

TX C: how critical is the amount of oil in the system?

It doesn't have to be "dead on", but the closer to the correct amount... the better the cooling.

Quote:

I have a minor leak (add a can every year or 2) and I have used a can with (2oz? from memory) of oil.

Unless you see some evidence of oil discharge (dirty, slick area around fittings, seals) then its possible you are slowly introducing too much oil into the system.

Quote:

Of course, I have no way of knowing how much I had lost.

Nor anyone else. A technician would be making an educated guess if you took it to an A/C shop.

Quote:

So no idea how much in there now.

After several seasons of adding oil and refrigerant, it might be a good idea to evacuate the system, flush it, and start from scratch on the oil. As long as the system is cooling adequately (for you) and high side pressures are not too great...then keep doing what have been doing.

Quote:

I imagine too much oil is better than not enough, right?

Well....sort of. Too little oil will result in accelerated wear on your compressor. So...failure comes more quickly.

Too much oil in the system can result in "oil slugging" where the oil clings/coats the surface of the heat exchangers on your Evaporator and Condenser. The oil acts like insulation and decreases the ability of the Evaporator to accept heat from the cabin, and of the Condenser to release it. Net result..is poor cooling.

TX Cruiser · 06-28-08, 09:43 PM

The lines on the fire wall are just two 10mm bolts and two o-rings. That would have been the easiest way to flush, or back flush the evap and expansion valve.

Flint knows what is going on, and I could not have said it better, and didn't.

The bottom line is.....I didn't do my job....,which was to keep you from having to do this again in 13 years.

e9999 · 06-29-08, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flintknapper

It doesn't have to be "dead on", but the closer to the correct amount... the better the cooling.

Unless you see some evidence of oil discharge (dirty, slick area around fittings, seals) then its possible you are slowly introducing too much oil into the system.

Nor anyone else. A technician would be making an educated guess if you took it to an A/C shop.

After several seasons of adding oil and refrigerant, it might be a good idea to evacuate the system, flush it, and start from scratch on the oil. As long as the system is cooling adequately (for you) and high side pressures are not too great...then keep doing what have been doing.

Well....sort of. Too little oil will result in accelerated wear on your compressor. So...failure comes more quickly.

Too much oil in the system can result in "oil slugging" where the oil clings/coats the surface of the heat exchangers on your Evaporator and Condenser. The oil acts like insulation and decreases the ability of the Evaporator to accept heat from the cabin, and of the Condenser to release it. Net result..is poor cooling.

well, the cooling is good, I do see some oil coming out (minor) and the pressures are good, so probably OK. Bothers me to have to guess, but yes, a full emptying is a pain.

flintknapper · 06-29-08, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e9999

well, the cooling is good, I do see some oil coming out (minor) and the pressures are good, so probably OK. Bothers me to have to guess, but yes, a full emptying is a pain.

Sounds like you're fine then. I wouldn't dig into it unnecessarily.

Just keep up the regiment until it no longer cools to your satisfaction.

e9999 · 06-29-08, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Sounds like you're fine then. I wouldn't dig into it unnecessarily.

Just keep up the regiment until it no longer cools to your satisfaction.

yup, think I'm good for now.

Tell you, though, this is exactly the situation where 99% of customers are utterly at the mercy of hurried or unscrupulous techs. The chances of a tech taking the time to empty the thing completely vs just guessing and adding are probably very small indeed.

[rant on] There is something really bothering me about the notion of a business where people make more $$ if they don't do the job well (read less time) on something that is completely black box and invisible to the customer and likely to fail only much later on with no obvious connection to the job just done.... I don't mean just a/c I mean car repairs in general. aaargh.... [rant off]

rhyary · 06-30-08, 08:48 AM

Help!
TX Cruiser, the vacuum pump from HF is on back orderd until June 11th and it takes 10 days to ship it.
We are going the Gotham's Coal Mine event in Roach Creeck Next week and by then I need the LX450 working with A/C.

I checked two places in Albany for evac, vacuum, and recharge and it is very expensive (125 from one, and 150 from the other) So the cost is the same as getting the pump and doing it myself.

Current status is, I have one can of 134a and unknown amount of oil in a system that was open and have not driven the car since.

So my question is, am I causing a long term damage to components (new and old) by driving the truck as is until the vacuum pump shows up?

My preference is to put another can of 134a now. Wait for the vaccum pump to show up. Probably end of July and then evac, vaccum and correctly put in oil

06-27-08, 07:24 AM	#1
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	A/C - replacing compressor, condenser and dryer Hi, I am about to open the A/C system to replace the three components. The compressor makes grinding noises like the bearings are shot. The condenser is leaking (not from the o-rings) The dryer is 12 years old. In ideal world I will be putting a vacuum machine and suck what ever is left of the 134a and oil. Replace parts, suck air out and replenish 134a and oil to specs. But I am not in ideal world situation; it is going to be in my driveway work. My plan is to replace the components, fill with some 134a (the can with that comes with oil) and at some point get to a service station and do it right, putting it on a vacuum machine and correctly putting 134a and oil to specs. My question is this: Will I be causing immidiate damage to the new components. If not how many days can I run it as is. Thanks to all Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-27-08, 08:13 AM	#2
WarDamnEagle IH8MUD Addict Join Date: May 2007 Location: UK and Gulf Shores, Alabama Posts: 582	By all means, do all the work yourself but I wouldn't charge or run the system until you had a vacuum pulled on it (to dry it) regardless of who charges it. I think you could damage your system but I'm not an automotive A/C expert. __________________ 1985 4Runner - ROTM WarDamnEagle's 85 4Runner 1997 FZJ80 - locked and stock 2007 HDJ100 - DD .....and these are just the Toyotas

06-27-08, 11:42 AM	#3
e9999 You want to do what...? Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: PRK Posts: 10,207	don't know what immediate damage having air will do to your system, but I would surmise it is not good. An A/C gauge, hoses and manifold system will run you about $40 at HF. A vacuum pump can be as little as $20. Probably all the main tools you need to do the job right. Sell those for 1/2 afterwards if you're hard pressed for $ and it cost you $30 to maybe save your new compressor... __________________ '97: 88K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!) '03: 99K, the better half's... DD souped up DR650

06-27-08, 01:34 PM	#5
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	Thanks. I will check with auto zone in my area. __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-27-08, 02:44 PM	#6
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	I have manifold gauges set and vacuum pump coming from HF. Autozone does not rent those anymore in my area. Where on the truck do I connect the vacuum hose? I located the low and high pressure quick connect. There is also another quick connect on one of the lines. Since I have a leak in the condensor I don't have to worry about discharging the system. So my procedure is, replace the compresor, condenser and dryer. Attached vacuum pump to (?) turn on pump and wait for vacuum per pump direction. turn off pump, now I have a vacuum in the system. Fill with R134a (which I did few times already) Am I correct? TIA Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-27-08, 12:14 PM	#4
Izeloz IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 146	Autozone rents all those tools for free (including the vacuum pump).

06-27-08, 03:45 PM	#8
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	Thanks Tom, The manifold set does indeed has the yellow lines. So, if I connect the high and low pressure lines, from which hose/opening am I to evacuate the system? __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-27-08, 08:58 PM	#9
TX Cruiser IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Irving, Tx TLCA# Stolen Posts: 177	Flush the system. There is no need to trash the new compressor by not getting the metal shavings out of the lines first. If it's the clutch bearing you won't have to worry about the shavings, but you still will not have an accurate method of measuring how much oil is left in the rest of the system. Unless you know of a method that I don't, you will have no idea how much oil you need to put in the replacement compressor. You could measure the amount of oil that is in the compressor and condensor, but you can't measure what escaped from the leak on the condenser. You need to do this right. The shop that you take it to afterwards will have to take the compressor off, drain it and flush the lines to get the proper oil charge anyway. If you are going to leave it to them to guess how much oil needs to be added, then be warned that your a/c system might not last very long. Your system needs 4.1 ounces of oil (pag 46 will work nicely in place of ND oil 8 that Toyota recommends) and 1.88lbs of 134a. The guages will help you dial it in so that it will blow out popsicles, if you desire. I'm in the automotive a/c business. __________________ 2- 91 FJ80's, one smashed In the family 74 FJ40 w/PTO winch, tow bar 83 FJ60 84 FJ60 90 FJ62 w/damage inducer 94 FZJ80 w/damage multiplier 95 FZJ80 " " 03 UZJ100 Last edited by TX Cruiser; 06-27-08 at 09:26 PM.

06-28-08, 05:43 AM	#10
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	TX Cruiser, Thanks for being helpful. How do I flash the system? I am doing the work myself no in a shop. This is the point for asking how-to. So any helpful tips will help doing the job right. Do you agree with my procedure? First I plan to replace all the components. Do you suggest I flush the system before I replace the components? After? when the system is closed? pipes are open? Flush it with what? Using what tool? My understanding is the vacuum pump is placed on the system when the system is empty for oil and 134a. How do I get the sytem to be empty beside opening the lines? For being somene in the profession I appriciate your guidance According to the note that came with the compressor it is already full of oil. The unit I got from Cdan is the compressor and the clutch already assembled. Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB. Last edited by rhyary; 06-28-08 at 06:37 AM.

06-28-08, 06:50 AM	#11
TX Cruiser IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Irving, Tx TLCA# Stolen Posts: 177	The a/c flush you can get at the auto parts store. If you have a cylinder that you can put the liquid flush in, you can fill it and hook up to your air compressor hose (the one for your air tools) and blow it through the lines while your compressor, dryer and consenser are off the car. The new condenser will be clean unless you have bought a used one. Blow the flush through every line, if you want you can catch it to see how dirty it is. The lines going to the evaporator are somewhat tricky but you can easily figure it out. What you would like to do is a back flush, meaning blowing flush through the low side hose (fat one) and out the high side which is opposite the direction of travel when working. Here's the tricky part, the flush/air is going to come back at you when the pressure builds up in the expansion valve and the high side is not covered. What you need to do it have your thumb over the high side hose/line and blow in the low, you'll feel the pressure building, then release your thumb, do this several times. Once you have a good amount of flush in the evaporator and lines, go with straight air following the same procedure and don't quit until the lines are clear of all fluid. I recommend you wear safety glasses when doing this, it does take practice and you could get an eye full of flush, which won't kill you, but does sting like hell. When I did my own land cruiser, I used about 1/2 gallon of flush, but then again I'm kind of meticulous when it comes to my own cars. You could probably get away with using a 1/4 gallon of flush. I'm not sure about the aeresol cans, I have never used that type of flush, but I'd run air behind it to clear the lines, you may have to anyway, but I'm not sure. The stuff I use is called a/c blow out and I buy it in 1 gallon jugs, it may or may not be sold in smaller amounts. You need to replace all the o-rings where you have opened the system, and it's a good idea to replace all of the ones in the system, but it's certainly not necessary. I'm sure you knew that though. As for the oil, if Dan says it has the recommended amount of oil in the compressor, then that is all you need and don't let the a/c shop tell you that you need more when you take it to them. In fact tell them not to add any oil. It's a good thing that you are considering flushing the lines now, as there would have been too much oil in the system when you finshed your work, and too much oil hinders the cooling capability. Let me know if you have any problems, I'll be happy to answer any questions. __________________ 2- 91 FJ80's, one smashed In the family 74 FJ40 w/PTO winch, tow bar 83 FJ60 84 FJ60 90 FJ62 w/damage inducer 94 FZJ80 w/damage multiplier 95 FZJ80 " " 03 UZJ100 Last edited by TX Cruiser; 06-28-08 at 06:58 AM.

06-28-08, 08:05 AM	#13
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	I have new o-rings. The compressor has the oil, so that is all the oil I need in the system? I thought it is only the amount of oil the compressor holds. I have new condensor and new dryer per my earlier post. I'll call around to see if I can find a/c flush Thanks again. I am about to go outside and start taking things apar. So as I go, I might have more questions. Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-28-08, 01:38 PM	#16
e9999 You want to do what...? Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: PRK Posts: 10,207	TX C: how critical is the amount of oil in the system? I have a minor leak (add a can every year or 2) and I have used a can with (2oz? from memory) of oil. Of course, I have no way of knowing how much I had lost. So no idea how much in there now. I imagine too much oil is better than not enough, right? Thoughts? __________________ '97: 88K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!) '03: 99K, the better half's... DD souped up DR650

06-28-08, 01:55 PM	#17
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	Success. I got in the morning A/C flush bottle from Auto parts store and a flush gun from Homedepot. I flushed only the lines that I had a part, not the whole system since I did not want to open the hoses by the firewall and the flush gun would not mount exactly to the opening of the hoses. Everything is put together. I put in one can of 134a to get the system to turn on the compressor and to check for obviouse mistakes/leaks. Everything works and no apparant leaks. The truck is very quite with the new compressor/clutch. This car drive like a million bucks. when I get the vacuum pump from HF, I will evacuate the system, vacuum it and add the correct oil and 134a. I will not be driving it until I get the vacuum pump since we are going away to a wedding with my wife's car. Thanks for all the helped Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-28-08, 06:07 PM	#18
TX Cruiser IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Irving, Tx TLCA# Stolen Posts: 177	I lose. __________________ 2- 91 FJ80's, one smashed In the family 74 FJ40 w/PTO winch, tow bar 83 FJ60 84 FJ60 90 FJ62 w/damage inducer 94 FZJ80 w/damage multiplier 95 FZJ80 " " 03 UZJ100

06-28-08, 07:33 PM	#19
rhyary IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany, NY TLCA# 18056 Posts: 220	TX Cruiser, Not sure what you mean but I have done what I can given my knowledge, equipment and circumstances. The one area I am still not sure about, and hope you can help me with, is the evacuation. I have now what I had before but with new parts. Before and now I did not know how much oil was in the system. So one way to be sure is to empty the A/C system form oil and 134A and put in known quantity. How do I emtpy A/C system before I put it on vacuum? My assumption is that evacuate the system and vacuum are two different things that happens in sequence. Rami __________________ 96 LX450; Locked; OME; Nitto 295/75/16 Terra; CDL Pin 7; Second battery; Slee's light harness, Transfer case skid plate and sliders; ARB.

06-28-08, 09:43 PM	#21
TX Cruiser IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Irving, Tx TLCA# Stolen Posts: 177	The lines on the fire wall are just two 10mm bolts and two o-rings. That would have been the easiest way to flush, or back flush the evap and expansion valve. Flint knows what is going on, and I could not have said it better, and didn't. The bottom line is.....I didn't do my job....,which was to keep you from having to do this again in 13 years. __________________ 2- 91 FJ80's, one smashed In the family 74 FJ40 w/PTO winch, tow bar 83 FJ60 84 FJ60 90 FJ62 w/damage inducer 94 FZJ80 w/damage multiplier 95 FZJ80 " " 03 UZJ100