Transfer Case Rear Seal

[Cruisin']

After wheeling last weekend my transfer case rear seal has sprouted a leak. I found a thread in the 80 section on replacing the seal, but it applied to the NA spec trucks with the viscous coupler. Since my truck doesn't have that, and I presume not the extra housing on the rear of the transfer case either, would replacing the seal simply involve dropping the drive shaft and pulling the output shaft (like doing a pinion seal on a rear diff)? Also, the dealer said he could get me the seal in a day, but now I'm not sure if it would be the same seal.

Does anybody have experience with this? A brief description of the procedure and even a part number would be super helpful.

The other thing I wondered is if a clogged breather might be pressurizing the t-case and pushing fluid out of the seal. I'll check out that possibility tonight. Any thoughts?

Cheers

[Zekester]

I went thru a similar ordeal, posted it in the 40 section...check it out

[brownbear]

the bearing on the output shaft is probaby shot.

Try changing the seal and see how long it last. I did mine and it seems to be holding ok for not.

Buy the seal and a new nut. It takes a stake nut. Both come from Toyota.

The Nut is quite big. I think 36 or 37 mm. I can't remember. You need to make a tool to hold the shaft while you torque it at the end.

The FSM shows the procedure to change the seal in the field.

[Helomech]

The nut on the rear output shaft is 32mm. With the tranny in neutral, check for radial play in the rear output flange. Might be easier to detect with the rear driveshaft removed. If you can detect any movement the bearing is done or on it's way out. If it's OK, check for a groove on the sealing surface of the flange. If there's a groove you can feel with your fingernail you might need a speedi sleeve, or you could try to dress it out with a sharpening stone or scotchbrite if it's not too deep.

I did mine and it lasted for a good year. then I damaged my engine.

[brownbear]

The early US trucks did not have the coupler either. I am going to move this over there. Most likely you will get more hits.

[Cruisin']

Instead of making a tool to hold the shaft, would it be okay to put the t-case in 4-lo and have someone stand on the brakes when loosening the nut, and torquing it back up later? Could doing this potentially damage any components in the t-case?

[Helomech]

Yeah, that should work as long as you leave the front driveshaft in and lock the hubs.

It's not really a great amount of torque applied so I don't think it will have any bad effect on the drive train components. Do you have the torque spec for the rear output nut and a torque wrench?

[Helomech]

Holy fawk,

I just realized this was about an 80 series, forget everything I've posted. I only have experience on 60 and 40 series trucks.

[ElectricDyck]

Paying attention to this thread, mine starting dripping last week as well. Kinda scary knowing how little fluid there is in the case when it's full. My tracker had more oil in it's T-case.

[Cruisin']

Hey ElectricDyck,

I think we can take a small bit of comfort knowing that even with a drip, the level won't fall below the bottom of the output shaft, which I checked and its not much lower than the level of the fill plug. Worth keeping an eye on until its fixed, but it shouldn't run dry.

I know I won't get around to fixing this for a little bit since work and family keep me busy. If you make any progress on yours let me know. Maybe we can get together one day and fix them both. If you're interested PM me with your contact info.

Jason