[Romer]

I have been contremplating an onboard shower for some time. With our upcoming trip to the Rubicon, seemed like a good time to get it done.

Two main components to the On-board shower, the Heat Exchanger and the pump.

reffug was kind enough to sell me his Heat Exchanger after he IMPALED his truck. Course, now he has a another nice truck or I wouldn't have made that comment.

Email: info@twine4wdshowers.com.au

Website: www.twine4wdshowers.com.au

The Instructions to install the Twine Heat Exchanger are as follows:

Overview
The Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) should be installed between the vehicle engine and the cabin heater control valve.
Mounting the HEU with Outlet B on top will ensure maximum hot water flow through the HEU.
Mounting the motor section of the pump (silver part) uppermost will prevent any leaking water shorting out the motor.

CAUTION Allow vehicle to cool before beginning installation!

You will require the following items:
Suitable lengths of ½" hose

Clamps to secure ½" hose

Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) mounting bracket – if standard bracket not sufficient (specific brackets available for some vehicles)
Install HEU
1. Identify cabin heating system supply line from engine.

2. Secure Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) close to heater supply line using mounting bracket.

3. Remove cabin heating system supply hose.

4. Using suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Inlet A to engine port.

5. Using another suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Outlet B to cabin heater on the firewall.

6. Check that heater hoses are not crimped and do not rub on any part of engine.

7. Bleed vehicle cooling system:

• Disconnect hose from HEU Outlet B

• Set engine speed to 1,000rpm

• Stop engine when water runs from HEU

• Re-Connect hose to HEU Outlet B

8. Top up vehicle’s engine coolant supply.
Install Shower Pump
1. Secure shower pump in an appopriate position in engine bay using pump plate supplied.

2. Connect Inlet Assembly Male Snap Connector to inlet of shower pump using suitable length of ½" hose (not supplied).

3. Connect output of shower pump to HEU Cold Water Inlet.

4. Connect the HEU Hot Water Outlet to Outlet Assembly Male Snap Connector.

5. Screw Outlet Assembly Female Snap Connector to one end of shower hose.

6. Wire up shower pump to battery using Electrical Kit – mount switch in an accessable but protected place.

7. CUSTOMER to connect filter to Inlet Assembly Female Snap Connector using ordinary garden hose cut to length required.
System Check
1. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

2. Set cabin heater control to maximum – for vehicles without constant flow heating systems.

3. Set engine speed between 1,200 – 1,800rpm and hold (depending on engine).

4. Ensure cold water supply hose is placed in a suitable water source.

5. Check shower rose shut-off valve is fully open.

6. Switch on shower pump.

CAUTION – SCALDING RISK Extremely hot water will flow from the shower rose after the initial water flow (allow 20 seconds of flow to clear).

7. If shower water is too hot, temperature can be adjusted by:

• increasing shower rose flow

• reducing cabin heater control

• reducing engine speed

• reducing flow through the HEU – adding a tap (eg Repco HT58) between engine and HEU (A)

Now for the Pump, I selected a Shurflo 2.8gpm. I know there are faster out there, but 2.8 gpm is a pretty good flow rate and some times I may be feeding this out of a bucket or 5 gallon can.

I ordered a Shurflo model 2088-422-444. Lots of differnt models with a similar part number. This one has a higher psi, 45 vs 40.

The specs are as follows:

12VDC - 13.7VDC Max.
7 Amps.
2.8 Gallons per minute.
45 PSI cut off switch (3.1 BAR).
1/2" intake/outflow pipe thread connections.
2-Year Warranty (see paperwork for details).
Quiet performance.
Self-priming.
Easy installation.
Runs dry without damage.
Built-in check valve.
Standard 1/2" Intake and Outflow pipe thread connections.

My plan was to run 1/2" heater hose to the bumper and install Brass fittings. Not disconnects, just 1/2" fittings with caps.

[Romer]

First I laid a board across the engine bay to protect the radiator.

The second picture shows I placed the Twine bracket on the firewall for a test fitting. You can see it will obstruct with the brake booster vacuum line.

I loosened the bolts on the two brackets holding this line in place and was able to move the line forward without any crimping as both ends have hoses on it.

You can see in the third picture how much I advanced it and ended cutting off the hose.

Note: Keep the bracket removed from the firewall as I ended up using that as part of the setup for better fitment

[Romer]

I then removed the hose on the passenger side of the Heater control valve. I did not drain any radiator fluid as it was up high and the spillage would be a minimum. (Don't forget to top off later)

Basically, I just pulled the hose from the output of the heater control valve and the other end where it connects to a metal pipe that then goes to the heater. It was easy and simple to do. Note the Twine words are upside down as the input is on the left (not sure it matters)

[Romer]

I then ran a 1/2" heater hose from the output of the Twine down to the bumper. Note that the install has the you install it with a cross flow. Meaning the water input is on the opposite side of the coolant input so the flows go in different directions.

I drilled a hole in the ARB with progressively larger holes until the barb side of the brass fitting could go through. I installed it directly behind the outside bar as I figured that would be better protected.

I also added some adhesive on the bottom of the brass fitting that mates to the bumper.

Ran the hose down the battery tray and then up to the bottom of the bumper with a clamp on both ends

Note the bras cap on top of the 1/2" fitting.

I wanted a 1/2" fiiting because I thought this would be better with shower heads and hoses from RV shops.

Note: In the first picture I slit a 1/2" hose down the middle and wrapped the Brake Booster metal line just to insulate it from the heat.

[Romer]

Now came my dilemma, where oh where to install the pump. Looked under the spare battery tray and could have done something there, but would not have had access to it.

After a few step 6's and nice Cigar I decided to use the Pump externally.

The following reasons made sense to me.

1) It's tight in the engine bay already with all the stuff I got
2) I would need to winterize this setup and without the pump, I can just hook CO2 into the input and blow air through the Twine to the output. The pump would not be a factor
3) I can use the pump with my portable Zodi shower for use when I don't want to run the truck or we have another vehicle (Big plus here)

So I decided to build a harness with battery clips.

I also ran another 1/2" hose from the input (pass side) of the Twine down under the bumper and up to another 1/2" fiiting. I chose a 1/2" here because that is what the pump is. Had I installed the pump internally I likely would have gone 3/4" to fit a garden hose.

I ended up putting a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter on the input of the pump so I could use a 50 ft hose.

[Romer]

Now to hook up a shower head on a 10 ft hose. I bought it at an RV store as they ones that shut on and off for water conservation (in case I am using a 5 gal can)

I then warmed up the truck and tested it out using a half full bucket. Started out warm, so I cranked the heater up and the temp changed with the heater controls and got hot. I don't have the throttle cable installed yet and don't seem to need it for this to have hot water. The down side is the heater is on full blast heating up the cruiser.


Awesome modification and should be nice on the Rubicon.

[slick621]

Originally Posted by Romer

The down side is the heater is on full blast heating up the cruiser.

Very slick! To keep the cabin from heating up, couldn't you just set the the temperature slide to heat and then not run the fan?

As usual, great write-up.

[fj80toyman]

Very nice, useful mod at this point for me. Been wanting a shower for some time, this looks to be a clean way to do it. Also helpful that you show it on a car with supercharger. I would likely install the pump permanently.

Wasn't sure if I could fit one underhood, nice to see it can be done! Thanks for the great pics too. Recommend this for the FAQ/Sticky.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by slick621

Very slick! To keep the cabin from heating up, couldn't you just set the the temperature slide to heat and then not run the fan?

I didn't think of that. Probably would work fine that way. Thanks for the thought

Originally Posted by fj80toyman

Recommend this for the FAQ/Sticky.

There is a thread already in the FAQ for on-board showers. I pasted a link to this thread there

[NLXTACY]

Any chance of just mounting the pump on the inside of the bumper?

[Romer]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Any chance of just mounting the pump on the inside of the bumper?

I thought of that and considered that along with below the aircan and second battery. jUst decided to go external per the reasons above. It will probably last longer that way too.

[NLXTACY]

No I totally get your reasons for doing it the way you did it. I was just wondering the pump is small enough to fit behind the bumper without an issue? I'm assuming it is by the looks of it.

[Romer]

I do need to add an inline fuse to the pump harness. Didn't get a chance to get to one today.

I would love to be able to find a 10 ft Shower hose. I had to buy two 5 ft's and use a coupler.

Other than a garden hose filter, I would like to come up with a better filter set up like is on the Helton of Twine kits. Can't seem to find it by itself.


Any one know of a source for the shower hose or the filter?

[NLXTACY]

Thought about just using your standard kitchen sink under mount filter?

[e9999]

nice job and nice write up!

now to get a water tank on board, right...? or do you have one of those already too?

[F0RSAKEN]

Is there any way to feed that shower from a live water source like a creek or a pond? You would of course need a pretty good filter, but unlimited water would be nice

[NLXTACY]

Yeah of course, all you need is a long enough garden hose. Years ago my uncle had something like this on his Suburban. He carried around a 5gal bucket with him for various reasons. For this he used it by submerging the whole bucket in the water source, usually a stream because he always camped by a stream. He would then use a pair of panty hose (they may have been thigh highs, I dunno I was young) and then he would drop the hose into the bucket. the bucket prevented stream muck from get inside and the panty hose would keep little - enough - particles/critters out as well.

[reffug]

nicely done Ken...........

looks just like it did in my rig.

enjoy man.

told you that thing gets hot.

[alia176]

Can you recall the make/model info on the shower head?

Thanks.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by alia176

Can you recall the make/model info on the shower head?

Thanks.

RV/Marine Showerhead - White - Camping World

Still loking for a 10ft 1/2" fitting hose and a good filter for the other side

On the river or lake item. Thats why I bought a 50 ft hose. I can dip it in the water at Rubicon Springs and shower till the spring is dry

[TrickyT]

Originally Posted by Romer

Now to hook up a shower head on a 10 ft hose. I bought it at an RV store as they ones that shut on and off for water conservation (in case I am using a 5 gal can)...

Just be aware and warn the family, if you shut off the head and then turn it back on at first the water is lukewarm, but then the slug of really hot water that has been sitting in the heat exchanger reaches the shower head. You don't want the water touching any skin at that point 'cause it can be scalding hot!

Great set up, Romer. Bring a long garden hose with you to Rubithon and you can pump water out of the river. You'll be lots of people's new best friend. Oh, better bring some extra gas too.

[Fly Rod]

Very nice! A shower with an enclosure will help entice my wife to camp with me.

You will probably be able to pay for the whole set up at the Rubithon. Just charge the Lexus boy $10 each to let them use warm water to rinse thier each day.

[reffug]

Originally Posted by Fly Rod

You will probably be able to pay for the whole set up at the Rubithon. Just charge the Lexus boy $10 each to let them use warm water to rinse thier each day.

He is a lexus ................................

[alia176]

Originally Posted by TrickyT

Just be aware and warn the family, if you shut off the head and then turn it back on at first the water is lukewarm, but then the slug of really hot water that has been sitting in the heat exchanger reaches the shower head. You don't want the water touching any skin at that point 'cause it can be scalding hot!

Great set up, Romer. Bring a long garden hose with you to Rubithon and you can pump water out of the river. You'll be lots of people's new best friend. Oh, better bring some extra gas too.

Gents,

Couldn't you simply recirc the water into a bucket to the ideal temp then simply shut off the car? After that just use the pump to pump the water from the bucket straight to the shower head.

If you don't wanna recirc the water into the bucket, then collect the hot water into a bucket from the lake/stream/etc and then shower w/o worrying about scalding yourselves!

You can use one of those fancy collapsible bucket for this.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by alia176

Gents,

Couldn't you simply recirc the water into a bucket to the ideal temp then simply shut off the car? After that just use the pump to pump the water from the bucket straight to the shower head.

If you don't wanna recirc the water into the bucket, then collect the hot water into a bucket from the lake/stream/etc and then shower w/o worrying about scalding yourselves!

You can use one of those fancy collapsible bucket for this.

You can

I had no scalding issues during my test last night. using the heater temp to control it. When you shut it off and turn it on there is a moment of hoter water, but it didn't scald me.

You could recirc into a bucket as well, then you have to move the pump from the heat exchanger to the shower head.

[spressomon]

FWIW if you get a pump that is rated to at least 75psi you can set up a high pressure/low volume spray head (I used a penny with a 1/16" hole drilled into it as my pressure reducer washer inserted into the shower head/handle).

I mounted a 30-amp relay and a small on/off switch at the shower head...and have found, to eliminate the scalding issue and also to sustain a more even shower water temp (I use a Helton Hot Water heater...the water coming out is about 165 degrees...which is obviously too hot for bathing but OTOH it heats a couple gallons of shower water up pretty darn fast which is why I pump the shower water directly out of the bucket), to recirc the water in a 5-gallon bucket via the engine heat exchanger to the desired temp then pump from here for the shower...and easy on/off to conserve water as required.

Although my goal was to get down to .5gpm the best I can do with 75psi is .75gpm...still pretty good...mine provides plenty of pressure and relatively low volume for water conservation. If you have unlimited water source then this is moot (however the higher pressure is still nice).

[landtank]

Where the hell is the shower curtain??????

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by landtank

Where the hell is the shower curtain??????

You cant be one with nature with a shower curtain

[alia176]

Originally Posted by Romer

You could recirc into a bucket as well, then you have to move the pump from the heat exchanger to the shower head.

I assumed that your water "pickup" will be in a stream/lake so moving the pickup head would be easy.

[easyG]

Question: Could the heat exchange unit be mounted under the truck where the rear heater lines are? Or does it have to be installed under the hood. I live in AZ and the need for a rear heater is about zero. I have been trying to figure out how to utilize that space.