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Old 06-30-08, 05:35 PM   #31
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FYI

The north american distributor is a IH8MUD advertising vendor.
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Old 06-30-08, 05:58 PM   #32
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Really?

Id be interested in the over the frame part # BB3107.


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Old 06-30-08, 07:07 PM   #33
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FYI

The north american distributor is a IH8MUD advertising vendor.
...and that would be?


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Old 06-30-08, 07:14 PM   #34
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Really?

Id be interested in the over the frame part # BB3107.
it would only be half of the way over.

The down pipe has the upward bend on it.
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Old 06-30-08, 07:18 PM   #35
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it would only be half of the way over.

The down pipe has the upward bend on it.
Looks to me like part # BB3107 would go from the cat over the frame to the muffler though I am sure you would have to cut to fit. I would of liked to of had that section when I did mine. It would of saved me alot of time and could of given an even cleaner install.


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Old 06-30-08, 07:23 PM   #36
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Looks to me like part # BB3107 would go from the cat over the frame to the muffler though I am sure you would have to cut to fit.
Look at the color photo of all the sections I posted not the black and white pdf catalog photo of them lined up.

The downpipe has an upward 90 on it.

All that would be needed is to put an upward 90 off of a cat and a flange to connect it to the BB3107 which will go the rest of the way over.
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Old 06-30-08, 07:36 PM   #37
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Look at the color photo of all the sections I posted not the black and white pdf catalog photo of them lined up.

The downpipe has an upward 90 on it.

All that would be needed is to put an upward 90 off of a cat and a flange to connect it to the BB3107 which will go the rest of the way over.
Yeah I see it. I guess you would have to buy two pieces to get the section you would need from the cat to the muffler. I would probably cut the flanges off and cut and butt for the best angle with the cat and muffler already in place.


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Old 07-01-08, 06:59 AM   #38
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Yeah I see it. I guess you would have to buy two pieces to get the section you would need from the cat to the muffler. I would probably cut the flanges off and cut and butt for the best angle with the cat and muffler already in place.
Exactly what I was thinking.

Is the NA Vendor a secret or what?


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Old 07-01-08, 02:38 PM   #39
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wou .. this exhaust system looks good .. anycase for us ( turbo diesel ) all thinks are much more simple in the exhaust route .. but it come with a question.

We don't need ( pulling out the emision and CAT stuff ) a muffler it'self due to the turbo do the job as muffler .. it's the same in a gasser turbo ?


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Old 07-01-08, 05:04 PM   #40
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wou .. this exhaust system looks good .. anycase for us ( turbo diesel ) all thinks are much more simple in the exhaust route .. but it come with a question.

We don't need ( pulling out the emision and CAT stuff ) a muffler it'self due to the turbo do the job as muffler .. it's the same in a gasser turbo ?
We dont need no stinking mufflers.

I'd still run a low restriction muffler but with either gas or diesel having a turbo does have a silencing effect.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:08 PM   #41
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Exactly what I was thinking.

Is the NA Vendor a secret or what?
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They are in the middle of a move to a new building. Also keep up to date with what I have going on. I am discussing group buy with them.

Honestly I dont know why some are just looking for the one or two pipes. Between all raw materials and time it will take to round out the rest I dont think you will come out ahead.

IMHO getting a full system and spicing in a cat or a resonator out back is less work for better results than just getting the over rail sections.
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Old 07-01-08, 05:24 PM   #42
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wou .. this exhaust system looks good .. anycase for us ( turbo diesel ) all thinks are much more simple in the exhaust route .. but it come with a question.

We don't need ( pulling out the emision and CAT stuff ) a muffler it'self due to the turbo do the job as muffler .. it's the same in a gasser turbo ?
I mentioned in another thread that I have a friend back in Ohio who has a Lingenfelter/Callaway twin turbo vette that puts out 900hp/1000hp to the rear wheels depending on the fuel/fuel program he uses. He runs no mufflers, no cats, and mandrel pipe all the way back and it sounds stock. Looks stock too.


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Old 07-01-08, 05:28 PM   #43
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Rocky Mountain Imports - Your source for JDM Parts and Vehicles

They are in the middle of a move to a new building. Also keep up to date with what I have going on. I am discussing group buy with them.

Honestly I dont know why some are just looking for the one or two pipes. Between all raw materials and time it will take to round out the rest I dont think you will come out ahead.

IMHO getting a full system and spicing in a cat or a resonator out back is less work for better results than just getting the over rail sections.
You will need the whole system unless you already have some 3" in place. It would be easy enough to swap out or remove that muffler if needed. Cut the flex join off and maybe you could use that front secondary pipe to replace the muffler if you have a turbo.


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Old 07-01-08, 06:07 PM   #44
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You will need the whole system unless you already have some 3" in place. It would be easy enough to swap out or remove that muffler if needed. Cut the flex join off and maybe you could use that front secondary pipe to replace the muffler if you have a turbo.
I also still recomend keeping the flex due to the proximity of the overframe and over rear frame to making contact.

If you have a turbo and used the turbonetics manifold I am sure you would end up using almost all of the front pipe due to where the turbo is mounted and where it puts the turbine outlet. It is necked a bit at the front most flange. I would only remove the tapered section. A pipe to merge the external wastegate and the turbine outlet would need to be fabricated and connected to the down pipe. I also would make a downpipe to block brace.
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Old 07-01-08, 06:49 PM   #45
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I also still recomend keeping the flex due to the proximity of the overframe and over rear frame to making contact.

If you have a turbo and used the turbonetics manifold I am sure you would end up using almost all of the front pipe due to where the turbo is mounted and where it puts the turbine outlet. It is necked a bit at the front most flange. I would only remove the tapered section. A pipe to merge the external wastegate and the turbine outlet would need to be fabricated and connected to the down pipe. I also would make a downpipe to block brace.
I'm not a fan of the flex pipe. I prefer rubber insulators between the exhaust and the frame. Flex pipe may work, but an exhaust can be made not to break hangers without it. Might as well do away with another source of power robbing turbulence if it isn't necessary. I have had my exhaust hanging trouble free for over 4 years without that flew pipe section.


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Old 07-01-08, 07:57 PM   #46
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Does anyone know what this is constructed of? Black painted mystery metal?


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Old 07-01-08, 08:21 PM   #47
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It is mild steel.

Sure the flex section causes some degree of turbulence. I ran a 3" downpipe with a flex section on a mid 10 sec 1/4mile car. Not sure if or what it cost in hp. Did'nt care. Some back to back dyno tests of naturally aspirated v8s have actually made more hp with a high flow cat than with just a straight pipe. The only thing changed was the presence or lack of a cat.

Some effects are so minor I really dont think they matter in non pro racing applications. Rather have a system that can flex a bit than one that can bend or break than 1-2 extra ponies. I have seen muscle cars back mufflers into curbs and tweak their whole system also have seen fwd cars with flex sections do it and only ding a tip because the flex section gave and poped back.

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Old 07-01-08, 09:46 PM   #48
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Rather have a system that can flex a bit than one that can bend or break than 1-2 extra ponies. I have seen muscle cars back mufflers into curbs and tweak their whole system also have seen fwd cars with flex sections do it and only ding a tip because the flex section gave and poped back.
Well I have crunched mine at the under frame location twice and I did get a small tear I had to fix, but a flex joint would not of saved that. Also, I backed into something once and bent the tail pipe, but that was fixed just by gripping the bend with vice-grips. I think that rubber washers provide enough insulation from vibration. Besides, I thought you said the flex joint was primarily to allow for motor tilt?


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Old 07-01-08, 10:21 PM   #49
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Well I have crunched mine at the under frame location twice and I did get a small tear I had to fix, but a flex joint would not of saved that. Also, I backed into something once and bent the tail pipe, but that was fixed just by gripping the bend with vice-grips. I think that rubber washers provide enough insulation from vibration. Besides, I thought you said the flex joint was primarily to allow for motor tilt?

I think we should just agree to disagee. Not really sure why you are so active in flaming and nit picking such as turning things around.. I gave a second benefit of a feature and you are like I thought it was because of engine movement.. Duh.... it was.

Well stock routing with stock pipe does allow for the engine twisting too. With the 3" system I am sure they did it to make the pipes movement less severe for extra clearance.

As for the tailpipe. Put a turn down behind the bumper with the edge of the turn down even with the bottom of the bumper. A couple people here have gone to that with great results.
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Old 07-02-08, 06:45 AM   #50
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Sorry about coming across as flaming. I was pokin' fun more than anything.

I actually looked at using a flex piece when I initially did my exhaust and we decided there wasn't enough room to fit it with my application including headers and power loss was mentioned. In hind sight though there haven't been any problems so I am happy with extra power gained.

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As for the tailpipe. Put a turn down behind the bumper with the edge of the turn down even with the bottom of the bumper. A couple people here have gone to that with great results.
My tailpipe has a turn down and is somewhat protected. I hit something at a bad angle. It could happen again, but I am more conscious of the risk.


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Old 07-02-08, 06:57 AM   #51
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ok so what are the thoughts to the flex section concerning longevity....this system or another. And BTW that exhaust looks pretty badass. When i was getting mine, i asked around about the flex and then asked my installer as well and it was a resounding NO that i got. Most folk felt they would burn out and become ineffective in the 1-2 yr timeframe. just curious what others feel or have experienced.


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Old 07-02-08, 07:05 AM   #52
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They come standard on millions of front wheel drive cars. I have seen that other components of the exhaust on the cars fail first.
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Old 07-02-08, 02:28 PM   #53
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It is mild steel.
Yuk..


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Old 07-02-08, 02:35 PM   #54
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When i was getting mine, i asked around about the flex and then asked my installer as well and it was a resounding NO that i got. Most folk felt they would burn out and become ineffective in the 1-2 yr timeframe. just curious what others feel or have experienced.

no it's not I said get one, and i said that Dusty had one and said to get one.... so there are two YES votes.


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Old 07-02-08, 05:08 PM   #55
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Yuk..
Well considering one place wanted big $ for full stainless. less yuk. The same place even recomended jet hoting mild instead of having them make it in ss due to current stainless prices.
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Old 07-03-08, 09:33 AM   #56
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Rocky Mountain Imports - Your source for JDM Parts and Vehicles

They are in the middle of a move to a new building. Also keep up to date with what I have going on. I am discussing group buy with them.

Honestly I dont know why some are just looking for the one or two pipes. Between all raw materials and time it will take to round out the rest I dont think you will come out ahead.

IMHO getting a full system and spicing in a cat or a resonator out back is less work for better results than just getting the over rail sections.
Thanks for the company name. I'll be interested to see how your discussions go with a group buy.

I'm looking for one or two pieces because I already have everything to fab a 3" exhaust and the one or two pieces would be a time saver. The possible cost of the system may not be worth it to me.


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