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#1 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
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Air Conditioner Condenser Repair
I have a small leak in my 97 Air Conditioner Condensor right were the supply line goes into the core housing. I just want to get through the summer and don't want to spend the $600. I was quoted.
Does any one know of any strong 2-part epoxy that would stick to the metal and hold the pressure?? for a jiffy repair.(how much pressure is there in the condenser anyway?) Or am I stuck with a costly repair?? Thanks for the help. Ed |
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#2 |
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 10,122
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is it right at the heat exchanger itself or at the connector a bit farther out? cuz the latter relies on an O-ring that is prone to leaking after a while. Oring is probably 50c. Thing is that you need to open things up and either lose or have to suck the refrigerant. You could also try some refrigerant with leak stop. Seems to work more or less OK but some folks are hesitant cuz of hypothesized cloggage (
) issues.__________________ '97: 86K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!) '03: 97K, the better half's... DD |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
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Not the o-ring
Thanks for the suggestion, but it's not the o-ring, It's right at the condenser where the supply line comes in.
Do you know how much pressure there is here? |
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#4 | |
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Cruiser Curmudgeon
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Quote:
30PSI cold, resting. 300PSI operating w/ high underhood and ambient temps. __________________ Thanks, Jim C. TLC Performance Underhood Janitor, cleaning up other people's since 1988.
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#5 |
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 10,122
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Well, then, I imagine some epoxy might work, but you'd have to clean the oil real well of course. Can't hurt too much to try. Pressure probably not a big issue since the crack or hole is likely very tiny.
More permanently, if it's the tube at the exchanger itself, could you not braze or solder it? __________________ '97: 86K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!) '03: 97K, the better half's... DD |
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#6 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,288
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Ed,
Unless you know a lot more about the 80s A/C system than you're letting on, you need to clarify. What's a "supply line"? for instance. What's a "core housing?" for another. Describe exactly where the leak is, cause I think you're going to be a happy guy if you can do that. I'm clairvoyant... DougM __________________ Buy Head Gasket DVD for you OR for your mechanic HERE '93 FZJ since new, 2.2kw starter, Revo 275s, locked, big Hellas, rr fog, rr flood, rr Airlift, synthetics, ARB bullbar. 97 FZJ - exact same stuff but Michelin Alpins in winter "Slicker than owl shit on a wet log." - Carter |
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#7 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,288
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Um, or don't bother to clarify. $600 - the line forms to the left......
DougM __________________ Buy Head Gasket DVD for you OR for your mechanic HERE '93 FZJ since new, 2.2kw starter, Revo 275s, locked, big Hellas, rr fog, rr flood, rr Airlift, synthetics, ARB bullbar. 97 FZJ - exact same stuff but Michelin Alpins in winter "Slicker than owl shit on a wet log." - Carter |
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#8 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
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Doug,
The leak is at the condensor, where the high pressure line goes into the housing that holds the core of the condensor, and it's past where the O-ring connection is. I'm wondering if the canned "stop leak" would cause any other problems in the system. Have you tried the "stop leak" before? Thanks for the help. Ed |
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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I have only heard bad stuff about stop leak. But duct-tape that would solve your problem. You could always find a j/y one.
__________________ Matthew For Sale: '91 FJ80 - 3FE, CDL 7 Pin Mod, Part Time, 6" Slee Lift, Slee HD Tie Rod and Drag Link, Aussie Locker RR, 37" Toyo M/Ts, ARB Front Bumper, Warn 10K, Ultimate Air Past Rigs: '75 FJ40 - 350 TPI, SM465, NP205, High Angle Driveline, Ford 9" w/ Detroit Locker RR, Front Disk Conversion, 4x4 Labs High Steer, 4 inch M.A.F. Lift, 35x12.50 MTRs |
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#10 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,288
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Ed, I've never used stop leak on an A/C system.
Given that the O ring at the junction between the metal line you're describing and the condensor where you're describing is a known 80 series leak, you should be very sure of someone's diagnosis that it is NOT that joint. The gas/oil come out at a seriously high pressure, and the air movement (being adjacent to the motor fan) can cause the oil and dust to accumulate near the joint. Just coincidence that someone's telling you it's a leaking condensor right there near the joint? Hmmm. Hope you understand my skepticism - I'm trying to help you avoid needless expense (and down time). Many years ago, mine was diagnosed as needing a new condensor and metal line to the tune of $700. I replaced the O ring for free and had it evacuated and refilled for $70. That was 60,000 miles ago and it's been blowing ice cubes ever since. Took me a half hour to drive my truck home, open the joint* and retrieve the twisted O ring, then take the other car back to the dealer to get the O ring and bring it home to install. An hour later I was back at the dealership for the refill. *Yes, there is a permanent hole in the ozone over my house. DougM __________________ Buy Head Gasket DVD for you OR for your mechanic HERE '93 FZJ since new, 2.2kw starter, Revo 275s, locked, big Hellas, rr fog, rr flood, rr Airlift, synthetics, ARB bullbar. 97 FZJ - exact same stuff but Michelin Alpins in winter "Slicker than owl shit on a wet log." - Carter |
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 2,479
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Before I decided to repair my leaking ac compressor by order a 0-ring and shaft seal gasket set, I was looking at various Professional grade sealants. There is a product call Super Seal Premium manufactured by Cliplight, that you add to the system and it's suppose to seal any and all leaks wherever refrigerant circulates, as long as the leak isn't too big. If the system will hold a charge for a least a couple of weeks, this stuff claims to be able to seal it. It's an epoxy the hardens wherever it comes into contact with air.
The bigger problem may be finding someone that installs it. Shops anymore don't want to sale you the $50 fix, when they make a lot more money replacing the whole thing with new. ![]() Rookie2 __________________ 1997 LX-450, 109k, Stocker. |
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