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Old 05-16-08, 10:02 PM   #1
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Went wrench crazy on day off. Lift in and more

Just put in my OME springs! 850J front and 863 rear.

Wow.. Went up higher than I thought. Stock springs must have sagged a bit over the years..

Will measure and do pics soon..

Driving impressions after new rear rotors and pads come UPS

Also got the hitch to slip in over the frame rail w/o out removing rear crossmember! A trick or two to it.. Not hard..
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Old 05-16-08, 10:21 PM   #2
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i want to know about the hitch


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Old 05-17-08, 01:12 AM   #3
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I'd be interested to hear what you think and see some pics.

I'm getting ready to replace the light 851/860 combo with 850J/864's.

How much other stuff do you have, ie weight adding stuff, front/back?

I went with 864's because of so much stuff in the back and I pull a small trailer, hope the 864's aren't too stiff.

Post up your impressions and pics if you would be so kind.


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Old 05-17-08, 10:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sseaman View Post
i want to know about the hitch
May depend on who made the hitch.. But

1. Remove spare tire.
2. Remove spare tire crossmember and the 90* brackets for it to the frame rails.
3. Trim the horizontal part of the hitch bracket.
a. Cut off part of the forward corner on the passengers side.
b. Cut off part of the aft corner on the drivers side.
4. Put the whole passenger side on top of the frame rail and push it into the pocket behind the fender.
5. Lift and turn the hitch at an angle to line up driverside trimmed area to clear the frame rail and push it up until it clears.
6. Shift the hitch over towards the drivers side so that the passengers side drops down onto the frame.

With the trimming... I first tried to do it with out it.. Then I made a mark on the corner of the hitch where it contacted and trimmed a 45* angle and about 1/4" off the passengers side. Then I trimmed about 1/8" off the driver side and a tapered area behind that about 2" long... Going from edge of 1/8" trim to full width over 2" span.

There is some sheet metal that needs to be trimmed or bent over just above the frame in the back. Where two sheets come together and the seam is at a right angle to the frame. I just cut a line in it on either side of the frame rail and folded it over.

As for weight on the lift.

ARB bull and mile marker front.

Stock rear bumper. 315 Spare sitting on inside floor of truck..

You do have to notch the rear x to slide in the draw bar but not too much. Will do pics soon... Just got done notching.
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Old 05-17-08, 07:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by LC80Ducati996
Just put in my OME springs! 850J front and 863 rear.
This thread is worthless without pictures. What kind of shocks did you use?


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Old 05-18-08, 11:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4CPOSEADOG View Post
This thread is worthless without pictures. What kind of shocks did you use?

Yeah, I was just going to ask about the shocks also.
If you didn't replace the shocks and, assuming that the olds ones were stock length, then you really limited your flex.





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Old 05-18-08, 12:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC80Ducati996 View Post
Also got the hitch to slip in over the frame rail w/o out removing rear crossmember! A trick or two to it.. Not hard..
Are you talking about relocating an existing hitch or installing one ?


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Old 05-18-08, 08:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisin'Carolina View Post
Are you talking about relocating an existing hitch or installing one ?
I would like to relocate my hitch above the frame rails but having a hard time visualizing his steps.


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Old 05-18-08, 09:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC80Ducati996 View Post
May depend on who made the hitch.. But

1. Remove spare tire.
2. Remove spare tire crossmember and the 90* brackets for it to the frame rails.
3. Trim the horizontal part of the hitch bracket.
a. Cut off part of the forward corner on the passengers side.
b. Cut off part of the aft corner on the drivers side.
4. Put the whole passenger side on top of the frame rail and push it into the pocket behind the fender.
5. Lift and turn the hitch at an angle to line up driverside trimmed area to clear the frame rail and push it up until it clears.
6. Shift the hitch over towards the drivers side so that the passengers side drops down onto the frame.

With the trimming... I first tried to do it with out it.. Then I made a mark on the corner of the hitch where it contacted and trimmed a 45* angle and about 1/4" off the passengers side. Then I trimmed about 1/8" off the driver side and a tapered area behind that about 2" long... Going from edge of 1/8" trim to full width over 2" span.

There is some sheet metal that needs to be trimmed or bent over just above the frame in the back. Where two sheets come together and the seam is at a right angle to the frame. I just cut a line in it on either side of the frame rail and folded it over.

As for weight on the lift.

ARB bull and mile marker front.

Stock rear bumper. 315 Spare sitting on inside floor of truck..

You do have to notch the rear x to slide in the draw bar but not too much. Will do pics soon... Just got done notching.
would be interested in seeing some pics too. although im sure it will depend alot on what kind of hitch is there.

i just remove mine until i have to tow..which isnt too often.


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Old 05-18-08, 10:20 PM   #10
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I relocated the one that was on it after blasting it and repainting it.

Sorry about pics delay. Busy man all weekend had work around the house and a side job fixing a boat in my garage.
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Old 05-18-08, 10:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC80Ducati996 View Post
I relocated the one that was on it after blasting it and repainting it.

Sorry about pics delay. Busy man all weekend had work around the house and a side job fixing a boat in my garage.
I understand most of what you're saying, I think, but it would be great if I had some pics to see for sure. I'll keep checking back.


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2" Ironman springs with 1" spacers and Bilsteins courtesy of Frankie's Offroad.
Quote from Willy T. Payne
"I'm f*cking this goat, you just hold the horns."
(no goats were actually molested during the making of this comment)

Tapage, "saving my penis for the next year .. fingers crossed .. ! "
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Old 05-19-08, 12:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredTJ View Post
Yeah, I was just going to ask about the shocks also.
If you didn't replace the shocks and, assuming that the olds ones were stock length, then you really limited your flex.





Fred
Yes and no.. Depends on what you replace them with. Some shocks have no more droop than stock.

I had not made up my mind on the shocks yet but knew I did not want OME shocks. So I did the lift to get it and caster correction done and out of the way. Just a shock swap is so easy even swaping in eye adapters and shocks is easy..

I will shoot some pics of the hitch today first as I just put her up on stands to do rear brake rotors, pads, parking brake bellcrank pivot fix and parking brake adjustment. UPS ought to be by today with my rotors. Rockauto was $70 cheaper per rear rotor than a local parts chain...
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Old 05-19-08, 05:57 PM   #13
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Here we go hitch pics

From rear no bar installed. Put the trailer connector right into the bumper. Smashed the last one backing up and over a snow bank.. Not gonna happen now!



Passengers side frame



Drivers side frame



Inside of bumper notch. Cut to outside and tops of lower "hitch holes" on the front and up to existing slot on rear of bumper/xmember.



Rear view with 8" drop hitch + convert-a-ball inserted. Tow a couple different boats and a cycle trailer.. Nothing super heavy. I was standing up kind of close on this one so it looks lower than it is. The boat sits level.



Shot showing clearance between bumper and hitch bar. Close but no interference at all.

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Old 05-19-08, 07:22 PM   #14
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thanks for the pics, are the holes there or did you have to drill?


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Old 05-19-08, 07:33 PM   #15
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thanks for the pics.


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94 FZJ80/FJ80 MUTT
315 Maxxis Bighorn,
Rear Aussied, and stripped of BullSh*t
2" Ironman springs with 1" spacers and Bilsteins courtesy of Frankie's Offroad.
Quote from Willy T. Payne
"I'm f*cking this goat, you just hold the horns."
(no goats were actually molested during the making of this comment)

Tapage, "saving my penis for the next year .. fingers crossed .. ! "
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Old 05-19-08, 07:58 PM   #16
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Cool hitch mod.
I was wondering about the lift..... So instead of a full lift package you just installed OME springs?How much lift do you get with just springs? How big are your tires? Is the ride rough? If you get lift from just springs, why would someone opt for the entire lift package? Thanks a bunch.


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Old 05-19-08, 09:20 PM   #17
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Just springs, extended brake lines and caster correction for now.

Shocks and rear panhard drop bracket to follow.

Much more to doing it right than just springs.
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Old 05-19-08, 11:11 PM   #18
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So I guess my next newbie question is there anything in the kits that you can either do without or can you build the kit cheaper
? How much lift can you get from just the springs? How big are the tires you will run with springs? Thanks again.


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Old 05-20-08, 12:21 AM   #19
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Um... Look at FAQ.
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Old 05-21-08, 01:46 PM   #20
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thanks for the pics, are the holes there or did you have to drill?
Holes are not there. Had to drill. I did use existing holes on the bottom of the frame but not the top so I had to drill thru one side.
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Old 05-23-08, 04:30 PM   #21
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Cool hitch mod.

What brand of hitch do you have? OEM, Draw-tite, or other? Thanks!
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Old 05-23-08, 08:42 PM   #22
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Not sure was mixed black and orange before I put it in a bead blasting cabinet.. Might be OEM
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Old 07-03-08, 04:56 PM   #23
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do you think that there is any way to retain the spare tire in the stock location?


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Old 07-03-08, 05:49 PM   #24
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UM why. The spare hangs much lower than the hitch. Not going to gain anything.
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Old 07-03-08, 06:06 PM   #25
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while the spare hangs lower than the hitch, I can take the spare off and throw it in the cargo area in about 3 minutes, for times that I'm offroad.

around town, I don't have much trouble with the hitch nor the spare hitting stuff, but it is cleaner/neater to have the spare down below than in the cargo area (around town).


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