oil

[brian]

is 15w-40 too much for a 1fze, that makes good pressure now, with what i'm assuming is 10w-30?
i ask only due to i keep a bunch of it around for everything else.

[beno]

Originally Posted by brian

is 15w-40 too much for a 1fze, that makes good pressure now, with what i'm assuming is 10w-30?
i ask only due to i keep a bunch of it around for everything else.

I use Rotella 15w-40 during the hot months and then switch to Rotella 5w-40 for the cold months.

I like Rotella a lot...

[brian]

Originally Posted by beno

I like Rotella a lot...

as do i, my friend.

[Cruiserdrew]

15w-40 will be fine. In fact, I've run 15w-50 quite a bit in my 80. Rotella has a good rep, I like Chevron Delo, but not for any scientific reason, maybe it's the blue bottle.

I am surprised more people do not run the heavy duty oils. Delo or Rotella have to be about the best bang for the buck in oil out there.

[Sc0-]

I run any type of HD Diesel oil, Castrol Tection, Rotella, Delvac 1300, Delo... Same with yard equipment and motorcycles/ATV's. Doesn't get cold around here so heavier is better.

[cruiserdan]

10-30 and later 5-30 were specified because those oils were used in EPA testing (fuel economy) and the manufacturer is not supposed to use one oil for testing purposes and another for general use. The heavier oils are listed in other markets, IE OZ where I believe the charts list up to 20-50.
The lighter oil in theory provides better fuel economy.

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

<SNIP>

The lighter oil in theory provides better fuel economy.

And, better lubrication...



Fred

[brian]

great.

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by brian

is 15w-40 too much for a 1fze, that makes good pressure now, with what i'm assuming is 10w-30?
i ask only due to i keep a bunch of it around for everything else.

In virtually any climate that you're likely to be in, you want to use a lower "cold weight", such as 0wxxx or 5wxx if you can't fine a 0wxx.
Unless there is a specific reason (which requires an oil temperature gauge and an oil pressure gauge to determine) you should use a 30 for the for "hot weight" such as a 0w30 or a 5w30 if you can't find a 0w30.




Fred

[Elijah]

Originally Posted by FredTJ

In virtually any climate that you're likely to be in, you want to use a lower "cold weight", such as 0wxxx or 5wxx if you can't fine a 0wxx.
Unless there is a specific reason (which requires an oil temperature gauge and an oil pressure gauge to determine) you should use a 30 for the for "hot weight" such as a 0w30 or a 5w30 if you can't find a 0w30.




Fred

I think 0w30 and 5w30 are way to thin for the 1fz. 5w40 and up to 20w50 as dan specified. Cold months I like 5w40 Rotella, hot months 15w40 Delo (CHEAP at Costco).

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by Elijah

I think 0w30 and 5w30 are way to thin for the 1fz. 5w40 and up to 20w50 as dan specified. Cold months I like 5w40 Rotella, hot months 15w40 Delo (CHEAP at Costco).

This forum is the only one, out of a half a dozen or so that I visit, that people seem to have a had time understand oil, how it works and why.

Please, post up SPECIFICALLY WHY you, or whomever, believe that the thicker oils are better and/or why the 0w30 and/or 5w30 are "too thin".
After that I'll repost with the corrections

You do understand, don't you (though obviously not that oven 0w (as in 0w30) is too thick at startup (assuming the engines cooled down) 0w is too thick at even 100*F, so why in the world would anyone want to use/recommend anything thicker, as in 20wxxx for any climate conditions.......


Fred

[FirstToy]

then why do car makers recommend 5W-40 or 10w-30 etc instead of 0w-40?

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by FirstToy

then why do car makers recommend 5W-40 or 10w-30 etc instead of 0w-40?

They're several reasons:

- In the case of 5w-40 (who recommends that anyway these days ?) or 5w-30, it's because the 0w, as in 0w-30 or 0w-40 is hard to find. 5W-xx is easier to find.

- They assume that most people are going to use regular oil, not synthetic. In the case of multi-weight, regular oil (lets say 10w-30), the oil starts as a 10w oil and viscosity improvers/enhancers (VI's) are added to make it behave as a 30w at operation temperature.
The problem is that the VI's are a "wear item", that is they wear out and as/when they do, the oil stops behaving as a 30w at operating temperatures (the VI's are gone) and it's now a straight 10w and that is too thin at operating temperatures.
So they're trying to protect the engine from the most likely damage (over time) that will happen to it and that is people will use regular oil and a lot of the clowns won't change it as often as they should.
If they recommended (and people used) say a 0w-30 and the oil wasn't change properly, it'd act as a straight 0w oil when the VI's wore out and that would hurt the engine more (they believe) than the excessive cold start wear that occurs when running the 10w-30 in the vehicle.




Fred

[beno]

Originally Posted by FredTJ

- In the case of 5w-40 (who recommends that anyway these days ?)

Every 4/5/6 cylinder diesel engine out there...(i.e., every VW TDI has 5w40 as the recommended weight).

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by beno

Every 4/5/6 cylinder diesel engine out there...(i.e., every VW TDI has 5w40 as the recommended weight).

Mmmm, last time I checked we were on the page regarding gasoline engines....

Diesels, clearance wise, running temperature wise, etc. are different (obviously).

Still note the 5w for the cold weight (again note many choices for 0w40). The oil flow characteristics are the same regardless of the type of engine




Fred

[CJF]

So Fred,

I take it you run a 0w-30 synthetic?

Curtis

[decavo]

20w50 castrol in all my cars last yota had 300K on it when i sold it.the 80 and my 4cyl solara run 20w50 100*in the summer and slow wheeling the 80 likes it..

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by CJF

So Fred,

I take it you run a 0w-30 synthetic?

Curtis

Actually Redline 5W20 synthetic ('95 4Runner).





Fred

[FredTJ]

Originally Posted by decavo

<SNIP>
.the 80 and my 4cyl solara run 20w50 100*in the summer and slow wheeling the 80 likes it..

And you know the 80 "likes it" by how ??





Fred

[beno]

Originally Posted by FredTJ

And you know the 80 "likes it" by how ??





Fred

To be honest with you, sometimes experience trumps scientific, hard data.

I am not saying that is the case here, but I think that is the distiction you are trying to make.

While interesting and enjoyable to banter back and forth like this, the evidence suggests that our engines (specifically the 1FZ-FE) like a somewhat heavier oil and has been discussed here ad infinitum if you search through the archives.

If you search under the user name "cary" or "Raventai" you will see why some of us do use a heavier oil, even though scientific data suggests that we should not or that a lighter weight oil might lubricate better (and I'm not saying that they don't).

There are plenty of "do this" and "don't do that" types of threads in the 80 section. We are slightly factional here--and in the other sections of MUD as well. As a large, diverse community, there are bound to be different opinions, sources of data, as well as methods of testing that data, and even different definitions of what each of those might mean.

Anyway, I see what you are trying to impress onto the conversation started by the OP.

Regards.
-o-

[decavo]

Originally Posted by FredTJ

And you know the 80 "likes it" by how ??





Fred

With the thicker oil I have better oil pressure .The truck does not overheat while crawling in 100 degree temps through the desert. The valves do not rattle under strain in higher elevations and under a load. As i said my last toy sold running strong at 300K and i abused that poor car. 6cyl cresidda it would get rubber in 3 gears with 300K on the clock . I had a old ford truck same deal . The thicker iol seems to keep my junk running strong.

Like Beno said it is preference in the end. And where you live and how you drive. I also dump a can of LUCAS in both toys so cold starting is smoother more sticky oil every where inside the engine

The only real noticeable difference is it takes the engine longer to get hot with the heavier oil in there

[decavo]

Originally Posted by FredTJ

And you know the 80 "likes it" by how ??





Fred

FWIW i did the vulcan mindmeld with the engine and it told me so

[Kenso]

I've found there to be positives and negatives for both the heavier oil and the lighter. I ran Royal Purple 5w30 for the first couple oil change intervals after purchasing my 80. Downsides were some oil consumption and timing chain rattle on startup. Switched to Rotella 15w40 at the last oil change, have had zero consumption since and no more rattle on startup, but I seem to have lost approx. 1 mpg and the truck feels a bit slower (subjectively, haven't done any real testing I suppose).

[landtoy80]

OZ LC Oil Visc. Chart


Now I don't want to here anymore 20w-50 threads saying "its to thick for the 1fz!!!"

It says at bottom of pic/page
* On engines with turbo chargers, never use above above 0 C (32 F)
That is on the Diesel chart for 5w-30.

Would that be the same for turbo or supercharged 1fz's?

How does synthetic oil fit in the chart? Can you run a thinner oil if its syn when its hot?

Also, why does the chart say 10w30 up to 100+ and 15w40 and 20w50 to 100+? How do you know if you need the
30, 40 or 50w if they all go to 100+?

[Elijah]

Originally Posted by landtoy80

OZ LC Oil Visc. Chart


Now I don't want to here anymore 20w-50 threads saying "its to thick for the 1fz!!!"

It says at bottom of pic/page
* On engines with turbo chargers, never use above above 0 C (32 F)
That is on the Diesel chart for 5w-30.

Would that be the same for turbo or supercharged 1fz's?

How does synthetic oil fit in the chart? Can you run a thinner oil if its syn when its hot?

Also, why does the chart say 10w30 up to 100+ and 15w40 and 20w50 to 100+? How do you know if you need the
30, 40 or 50w if they all go to 100+?

Thanks Landtoy. So I guess the answer to Fred's question is "because Toyota says to".

[FirstToy]

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