Okay front axle gurus...

[CreeperSleeper]

I broke two Pass side birfs before I got my Longs. Then I lost a stud from my pass side steering arm. I ended up rebuilding my front axle and regearing to 5.29. The problem now is I keep blowing inner axle seals on my pass side. i'm afraid that I may have bent my axle housing. Please tell me that I'm overlooking something...

[inkpot]

Howdy! Maybe you have a bent axle rod? John

[mac]

Is it the seal that's blown or could it be a worn groove in the axle shaft where the seal rides?

[landtank]

maybe a worn spindle bushing allowing the birf to run off center.

[alia176]

It sounds like the seals are fine but the axle is moving laterally and breaking the seal. Or perhaps you have a groove on the axle where the seal rides on?

[Buckru]

Since you are still blowing seals after going to the longs, I might rule out worn groove in the axle. Of course that would depend on the mileage you have on the longs.

I think Landtank has hit the nail on the head.

Buck Buchanan

[concretejungle]

Originally Posted by landtank

maybe a worn spindle bushing allowing the birf to run off center.

Tank, how would one find this out? I'm kind of thinking i have this. If i coast, and hit a speed bump, there is a loud clank sound coming from my PS front axle. I have put the rig up on stand and spun the front wheels. You can hear it in the axle tube near the wheel. It sounds like something is loose; like the slop in there.

I don't have leaking yet and i pulled the wheel to make sure the wheel bearings were tight, and they were.

Sorry to hijack chad....

[CreeperSleeper]

No worries, I need all this info. I know that the axle shaft isn't bent or groved. I have about 1000 miles on my Longs... However, I did not replace that brass bushing because it looked good. Is there any way to check that?

[IdahoDoug]

Chad,

Simple to diagnose, actually, if you've been noting what happens to the seals. A bent axle shaft would wear the inner seal around its entire perimeter as it wobbles round and round. A bent axle housing or other mechanical issue allowing the axle to run offcenter will produce an inner seal with obvious wear in one spot such as at 12 oclock, or 6 oclock, etc. Mine wore at the 12 position slightly and I used shims to perfectly align it as noted on the next repack. The 80s are not designed for this (all prior models are) but I was able to achieve the change.

As for the speed bump sound, all 80s I've ever had/driven will make a clunk on the perfect frequency bump that I've always assumed was the longer left side shaft nipping the bronze bushing. Goes away after a fresh repack due to the grease deadening the sound - then returns shortly. No big deal. I'd be sure to check your knuckle bottom 4 nuts though.

DougM

[landtank]

The only way I know of to check the brass bushing is to pull the spindle and mic it. I have two new bushings and when I replace a birf I'll be putting a new bushing in as well. It's kind of hard to visually see any wear but I did do a front axle job were it was obvious. You could see a depth difference in the grease groves as they went around the inside of the bushing.

[concretejungle]

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

As for the speed bump sound, all 80s I've ever had/driven will make a clunk on the perfect frequency bump that I've always assumed was the longer left side shaft nipping the bronze bushing. Goes away after a fresh repack due to the grease deadening the sound - then returns shortly. No big deal. I'd be sure to check your knuckle bottom 4 nuts though.

DougM

Hmmm... sounds logical enough. I have checked the bottom 4 bolts to ensure they are snug. It's almost time for another rebuild. Just noticed last weekend that the felt seals are starting to weep just a tad. I have been about 100,000 miles since the last rebuild. So, it sounds like it's about time to have fun again

[IdahoDoug]

Rick,

So you're thinking of pressing a new bushing in, eh? How much are those bushings? On my next repack I'll also be thinking new spindle and the upgraded needle bearing but the price for those has to genuinely hurt, ya know?

I think the axle shafts tend to hit the brass bushing more often as the knuckle bearings wear and reduce the clearance. If I am visualizing things correctly, the knuckle would move slightly upward as the bottom knuckle bearing "sinks into" the race a bit. Of course, this would also provide a new clunk potential with loose knuckle bearings....

DougM

DougM

[ArmyFJ]

When I did my repack and swapped out the old bushings I found that, unlike my previous cruiser (FJ40), new bushings in the 80 are not snug to the birfield, and do not require honing. I mic'd both sets of bushings and they came out exactly the same, which was interesting because my pretty complete maitenace records show no bushings every being replaced with 222K.
By the way this tool works great for pulling the bushings easily: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...oval-tool.html

[concretejungle]

Thanks for the link Matthew! I will probably be buying one of those.

[CreeperSleeper]

*sigh* I'm getting really sick of tearing this axle apart... I really hope it's the brass bushing. Otherwise there may be 5.29s and Longs for sale! "Screw this, I'm buying a Dana 60"

[Nay]

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

"Screw this, I'm buying a Dana 60"

That is reality given where you are headed with this rig. Might as well do it now and go straight to 39's.

Figure out a replacement rear while you are at it so you can go to 7's or so in the diffs.

[ArmyFJ]

I will buy them from you right now. Seriously. Give me those third members.

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by Nay

That is reality given where you are headed with this rig. Might as well do it now and go straight to 39's.

Figure out a replacement rear while you are at it so you can go to 7's or so in the diffs.

FF Dana 60 out of a J**p J20... It's even offset.

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by ArmyFJ

I will buy them from you right now. Seriously. Give me those third members.

Mine are locked, you would need more than the 3rd... How much money ya got.

[ArmyFJ]

I will make it work. but if its like that I will just send you my Taiwanese inner axle seals for your birthday.

[CreeperSleeper]

Bwahahahahaha!

[landtank]

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

Rick,

So you're thinking of pressing a new bushing in, eh? How much are those bushings? On my next repack I'll also be thinking new spindle and the upgraded needle bearing but the price for those has to genuinely hurt, ya know?

I think the axle shafts tend to hit the brass bushing more often as the knuckle bearings wear and reduce the clearance. If I am visualizing things correctly, the knuckle would move slightly upward as the bottom knuckle bearing "sinks into" the race a bit. Of course, this would also provide a new clunk potential with loose knuckle bearings....

DougM

DougM

I don't remember it was a while ago. Putting in the bushing along with an 800.00 birf just seems like the right thing to do along with the drive flange. The one I saw that was bad was easily recognizable as in one spot the grooves were almost gone.

[ArmyFJ]

BTW I think the bushings are $36 or $39 ea.

[CreeperSleeper]

Well, probably should call CDan.