NLXTACY
Wits' End
I finally had a free night to do this install after staring at the box for over a week. The kit comes with the new harness, "instructions", and a small pouch with a bracket, nut and bolt, and (3) zip ties.
Now I haven't had the opportunity to order much from Slee but what I have ordered has been top notch. But each time, what has been lacking is the instruction set that comes with their products. It leaves way too much up to interpretation. When idiots like me are involved, interpretation isn't good.
Total time needed for install for first time user: 90 mins. It would have been less time if I wasn't scratching my head at certain points.
Tools required:
• Ratchet
• 12MM socket
• 10MM socket
• 8MM socket
• extension
• larger zip ties
• wire cutters
• frosty beverage
Step one: disconnect the battery, remove the lights from the housings and remove the lights from the old wiring harness. Set lights aside.
Step two: Completely remove the crossmember bracket that is in front of the radiator. While reading the instructions I had no idea what this part was and what bolts I needed to take off. Once I figured it out, then it became a little more obvious. This requires a 12 and 10MM socket to remove the necessary bolts. If you live in a rust prone area I would recommend spraying your favorite rust penetrator onto the bolt heads before hand or else you run the risk of breaking some bolts as another member just learned. There are a few little brackets attached to the crossmember that need to be disconnected as well. These are moveable (they swivel) once the bolt is removed so take note of these. While I was taking the two bolts from the latch mechanism I learned that you do NOT need to disconnect the cable and I learned that you do NOT need to try and remove the plastic that covers it because there is a third bolt hidden underneath. Once the latch is off then you will see the hidden bolt for another support. Once this is removed then the entire crossmember bracket will be able to be lifted.
Step Three: now the crossmember does NOT need to be completely removed but instead just lifted up. You will need to lightly force forward the plastic grill attachment so that you can get the lip of the crossmember out from under it. You COULD try and route without doing this but its just so much easier once its up and out of the way. Doing this will expose the existing wiring harness, it exposes the path by which you will run the new wiring harness and, for me, it exposed the pathway by which I am going to run the new battery cables needed for my dual battery install.
Now I haven't had the opportunity to order much from Slee but what I have ordered has been top notch. But each time, what has been lacking is the instruction set that comes with their products. It leaves way too much up to interpretation. When idiots like me are involved, interpretation isn't good.
Total time needed for install for first time user: 90 mins. It would have been less time if I wasn't scratching my head at certain points.
Tools required:
• Ratchet
• 12MM socket
• 10MM socket
• 8MM socket
• extension
• larger zip ties
• wire cutters
• frosty beverage
Step one: disconnect the battery, remove the lights from the housings and remove the lights from the old wiring harness. Set lights aside.
Step two: Completely remove the crossmember bracket that is in front of the radiator. While reading the instructions I had no idea what this part was and what bolts I needed to take off. Once I figured it out, then it became a little more obvious. This requires a 12 and 10MM socket to remove the necessary bolts. If you live in a rust prone area I would recommend spraying your favorite rust penetrator onto the bolt heads before hand or else you run the risk of breaking some bolts as another member just learned. There are a few little brackets attached to the crossmember that need to be disconnected as well. These are moveable (they swivel) once the bolt is removed so take note of these. While I was taking the two bolts from the latch mechanism I learned that you do NOT need to disconnect the cable and I learned that you do NOT need to try and remove the plastic that covers it because there is a third bolt hidden underneath. Once the latch is off then you will see the hidden bolt for another support. Once this is removed then the entire crossmember bracket will be able to be lifted.
Step Three: now the crossmember does NOT need to be completely removed but instead just lifted up. You will need to lightly force forward the plastic grill attachment so that you can get the lip of the crossmember out from under it. You COULD try and route without doing this but its just so much easier once its up and out of the way. Doing this will expose the existing wiring harness, it exposes the path by which you will run the new wiring harness and, for me, it exposed the pathway by which I am going to run the new battery cables needed for my dual battery install.
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