[firetruck41]

Originally Posted by cptmud

just pull the plug fom the tranfer case. it will become manualy operated from the switch
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_se...ntre_diff.html

I believe you lose the capability to disengage ABS (or something like that?), it does not give the full functionality of the pin 7 mod.

[-Spike-]

You lose the low range tranny shifting points... which is covered in this thread. Doesn't anyone read anymore?

-Spike

[firetruck41]

Originally Posted by -Spike-

You lose the low range tranny shifting points... which is covered in this thread. Doesn't anyone read anymore?

-Spike

Yeah, but I'm not about to read through this 3.5 year old thread to pass on info that I don't care too much about, I already have my switch/pin 7 mod.

[LandCrusher'70]

If you wheel, are reading this thread, and have not done this, do it. It's crazy the amount of control you'll have. It's down right fun.

For added excitement, add the hand throttle. Fun stuff.

[Vitesse_6]

I started reading this thinking why are they talking like its never been done.....Then I get 1/2 way through the first page and notice the date.....
I did mine, I like it, I just need to remember to engage it at times....

[NorCal Cruiser]

I'm so glad I found this thread! I just bought a '93 FZJ80 last week and I was disappointed to find that I couldn't engage the factory lockers in high range. I'm very happy to see that by installing the CDL switch I'll be able lock up in high range. Good Times!

[NLXTACY]

Ok I read through the whole thing and I hope I don't sound like a complete jag-off but what I do not see discussed in this entire thread is how this affects the NON-locked 80's. Will I get all the control discussed or are my abilities to control ABS and locking in HI or LO curtailed by not having lockers? I like what I am hearing about the control. But does adding a CDL switch and 7 pin mod really net me bupkis without the lockers?

[FJBen]

Originally Posted by NLXTACY

Ok I read through the whole thing and I hope I don't sound like a complete jag-off but what I do not see discussed in this entire thread is how this affects the NON-locked 80's. Will I get all the control discussed or are my abilities to control ABS and locking in HI or LO curtailed by not having lockers? I like what I am hearing about the control. But does adding a CDL switch and 7 pin mod really net me bupkis without the lockers?

yes it helps, you can "technically" say you have 1 locker

The center, with the switch and wiring, you can still control your low range. If you are on a trail where you need low range for power/control and it's curvy/turns etc...by NOT having the CDL locked, it will turn easier since it's not trying to do 50/50 split.

also, if you are on pavement...maybe backing a trailer and want the low range, you can use low WITHOUT having the center locked. Having the center locked on pavement will cause more stress/bind in the drivetrain.

I like using the low range without CDL locked on trails.

[NLXTACY]

Awesome, great to know. Thanx Ben

[subosche22]

You would need to "fool" the diff lock ECU into thinking the center was locked even if it wasn't. then you could lock just the diffs. to take it a step further you could also probably fool it to think the rear was locked if you just wanted to lock the front.
I will look at the EWD's and see if it looks doable.......

Just wondering if you ever found any info on modifying the switch for just front locking?

[Lka1988]

Originally Posted by subosche22

Just wondering if you ever found any info on modifying the switch for just front locking?

My gut says that might not be a good idea...

And yes, I know it's an old thread...

[subosche22]

why would this be bad?

just curious if i ever had to do just a front dig.

Thanks Mitchell

[junior80]

did this mod to my 80 tonight and it works great! I knew about the pulling of the plug from the T-case but the 7pin mod has got to be better. thanks for the info!

[trd55]

This mod would help for those that want the cheap way out and install an Aussie locker front and rear. It would allow you to disconnect the front from the rear and allow you to turn easily. Of course you have to have hubs so you can drive down the road and not have to worry about the front diff being locked under normal operating conditions. Sounds like a plan to me.

[CJF]

Originally Posted by -Spike-

you lazy bastards.

Originally Posted by -Spike-

All this information is in the thread, READ IT Cody. Goddammit.

[-Spike-]

Uh, heh heh.

-Spike

[Toyote]

So, to perpetuate this thread just a liiiiitle more... the anal retentive in me wants to know if you can just ›snip‹ the 7 wire rather than pulling it out of the terminal?

Let's say that as you were wiggling it out of the terminal, the insulation pulled off the wire exposing bare copper anyway, and the wire was not budging and so you just snipped it, insulated both ends and buttoned it all back up. And then you test drove it and all seemed fine, with 1st and 2nd shifts in 4L occurring around 2k...

Let's just say that. What if?

[cruiserdan]

Cutting the wire also works. It's a bit more difficult to reverse.

[firetruck41]

Originally Posted by Toyote

So, to perpetuate this thread just a liiiiitle more... the anal retentive in me wants to know if you can just ›snip‹ the 7 wire rather than pulling it out of the terminal?

Let's say that as you were wiggling it out of the terminal, the insulation pulled off the wire exposing bare copper anyway, and the wire was not budging and so you just snipped it, insulated both ends and buttoned it all back up. And then you test drove it and all seemed fine, with 1st and 2nd shifts in 4L occurring around 2k...

Let's just say that. What if?

I hypothetically did that 3 years ago. Hypothetically, still no problems.

[Toyote]

ReVERSE??!!! Mwah ha hah.

Whew. Though there's a part of me that's bugged by my "short cut" and wishes his mod were as clean and pro as what I know the big dogs on here can do. But thanks to the big dogs and their writeups, I was able to get this far. Beers to you.

[D3fiant]

on installing the center diff lock switch, ive seen square ones and ive seen rectangle shaped ones, what is the differance. is it year? I have a 96 and was wondering if it mattered what cdl switch i use

[Brian Macgyver]

One situation not mentioned here is ice. I found myself on a shelf road, 50' above a creek, sliding sideways. I really wanted to go to low and drive out really slow.
But I couldn't. I had to turn. I had done that on pavement with the center locked and the tires chirped and slid a lot. In the most intense way, I didn't want any tire to slip a bit on a very icy shelf! It was scary enough already!
I got down the icy hill OK, but next time I will have an open low range to help out.

[retrofive]

Originally Posted by D3fiant

on installing the center diff lock switch, ive seen square ones and ive seen rectangle shaped ones, what is the differance. is it year? I have a 96 and was wondering if it mattered what cdl switch i use

The curved switch you see is for 91-94 dash, fits right up where the ECT, Antenna Switch is.

On the 95+ its square. Commonly people use a spare/extra/junkyard switch. Same pin-out and will fit in your dash at one of the un-used locations.

Ebag333 said you may be swing by sometime to look at his skid plate. Let me know, we live with a block or 2 of each other, you can compare the 94 to yours and his 97.

EDIT: oh and I just cut my 7pin wire

[latinoguy]

the low 4 position switch at the transfer case, anybody have a pic of where it is located? the old pics that were part of this thread are missing....it may help some newbies.

[retrofive]

I didn't take a pic when I pulled all my switches to test. This may help the location if you haven't read it before. I followed it to find the switches. Good luck

Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures