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04-06-08, 04:57 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 980
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Transmission Temp Gauge install w/pics
This is what I finally did to install a transmission temp gauge. I know a lot of people have installed senders in the lines, and other various places, all of which are nice set ups, but I wanted something simple and easy. I wanted to install the sender in place of the drain plug.
The problem is the drain plug is M10x1.5. It’s a pretty small plug and after spending almost a week and countless hours searching the web and visiting a local instruments supply store, I came to the conclusion that there was only one temp sending unit on the entire planet that was that size. And there were no adapters in that size to mate to any other sender.
The sending unit is from VDO, part No. 323-091. And I had a hard time finding it. It’s not a common sender at all, but I finally tracked one down. The sending unit matches up with VDO transmission temp gauge part No. 310-107. The problem with this gauge is that it has a range of 150-400 degrees, whereas our transmissions generally run under 200 degrees. To make matters worse, the gauge face basically has 150-200 degree range as the first two hash marks and the 200-400 degree range make up the rest of the gauge range. (See pic in second post) So, most of the time, the needle is going to be setting near the low point.
On the other hand, if the needle is anywhere but the low point, there’s no mistaking that the tranny is headed for trouble. So, in a way it's a glorified idiot light. But at least I'll know the tranny is headed towards overheating before the light kicks on at 300+ degrees.
VDO makes two other temperature gauges. One with a range of 100-250, intended for water temp and one with a range of 120-300, intended for oil temp. Neither will work with this trans sending unit, even though VDO advertises all their sendings units as being 10-180Ohm range. I tried. They end up reading way to too low.
To install, I just removed the stock plug, and drained out almost exactly 5 quarts of tranny fluid (a lot more than the 2 quarts the manual says for some reason). I then installed sender. The head of the sender is smaller than the drain plug, so I couldn’t use the stock crush washer. I made a washer that fit, but I’ll be checking to make sure it doesn’t leak. The number of threads on the sender is the same as the stock drain plug. The sending unit itself protrudes another approximate inch into the pan.
By the way, does anyone know if the stock A/T oil temp idiot light is suppose to come on and then off with the ignition switch like most of the other lights? Because mine doesn’t come on at all. But I definitely have the stock sensor.
Pic 1: Draining the fluid. Strangely 5 quarts came out, even though the book says only 2 should have. But I see this is pretty common from other posts. I took the oppertunity to put back in 5 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF.
Pic 2: The new VDO sender in place. Fortunately, the sender is pretty well protected, so the chances of it getting damaged off road is not huge.
Pic 3: Shows the Land Cruiser A-pillar pod I ordered from "egauges.com". This is an Autometer part. Part no. ATM-15413. Fits the 2-1/16 size gauges. I painted it grey to sort of match the interior. It's shown here with a 100-250 VDO water temp gauge I was experimenting with.
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04-06-08, 04:59 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Location: Oregon
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The VDO transmission temp gauge installed and running at operating temperature (just driving around town for about 15 minutes, at low speeds and with an ambient temp of about 45 degrees.)
Looks like here the oil in the pan is running at about 175 degrees. It's actually a little less as the angle of the gauge makes the needle look like it's reading just a touch higher than it is. Probably closer to 160. Now that I think about it, the range on this gauge is actually fairly useful. The only time it would be necessary to pay attention to the gauge is when it's reading between 200-300 degrees and there's a pretty wide range there. Beyond 300, the idiot should come on and damage is probably being done to at least the fluid.
Last edited by Brian894X4; 04-06-08 at 05:09 AM.
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04-06-08, 06:08 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northeast PA
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Nice work.
__________________
Jan 1974 FJ40 - Parting Out
1997 FZJ80 pushing 222K
1963 Nissan Patrol "Plow Truck"
1963 Nissan Patrol
"Your landcruisers and blanky get more attention than me!" my wife
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04-06-08, 07:24 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Redwood City, Ca.
Posts: 1,195
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Nice work indeed! Would you happen to know if the sender will work for the earlier 80 series tranny? Also, where did you order the parts?
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Robert Muniz
TLCA#15132
1993 Toyota Land Cruiser 216K
3x locked+4.88's+315 BFG AT&MT+SAFARI SNORKEL+SLEE 4"LIFT+TACO FR DC DS+ARB FR+WARN M12000+HANNA RR+SLEE SLIDERS+SLEE SKID+AO DRAWERS+ARB FRIDGE+DUAL OPTIMAS+GARVIN RACK+IPF'S+OKOLE COVERS+HUSKY MATS+POLY REARS+
-LONG INNERS+NF BIRFS
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04-06-08, 08:04 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,269
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__________________
97 FZJ80, Locked & Loaded, Safari Turbo, Safari Intercooler, Ceramic Coated Custom Exhaust, Ron Davis Racing Radiator, OME HD 2.5" Suspension, DBA Slotted Rotors, New Toyota Calipers All Around, Toyota Pads, 33" Revos, ARB Front Bumper, Center Diff Switch, Slee Stuff: Roof Rack, Step Sliders, Skid Plates, SS Brake Lines, DC Drive Shaft. HG PM'd, 9.5psi and climbing, My Rocky Mountain Mojo Mobile!
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04-06-08, 08:36 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,921
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Awesome, another mod for under 100 bucks. Been ordered. By the way, I've seen some dual pods used. I think it was for an Acura that it was used. I will be mounting a coolant temp gauge as well.
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84 FJ60, 256k (Rumpleshank)- suckiest day of my life, WagonGear'd, cleaned, fixed, carb'd, OME lift'd, U-bolts flip'd, Remflex'd and now waiting for a new motor
86 FJ60, 180k (Rizzabella)- just bought it
97 LX450, 227k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Auto-up mod, Coolant mod, Garage door mod, Jumper Cables, Dual batteries, Power Distribution 1, 2, 3, 4, Switch mod, Slee harness, Coolant/windshield sensor mod, CDL & 7-pin mod, Dog mod, Drillbit mod, IPOR'd, Yellowbox'd, Scion'd, Trans gauge mod, MAF'd, JDM fan'd, kid seat mod, Factory rack removed 
Mark's Off-Road for all 40,45,60 parts
ふざけんなよ!
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04-06-08, 10:15 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Encino, CA
Posts: 428
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I am still waiting for Scanguage to figure out the sending codes to use the stock sensor and pull the temps from OBDII. They say they are working on it...
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04-06-08, 10:26 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,727
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nice!
can you tell if it would be just the wires or the whole sensor that would get ripped off if something were to snag the wires?
what kind of sensor is this (thermistor, RTD, TC)? It might be as easy as changing a resistor to change the scale if you really wanted to do, but then the face units would not match. Better to leave it as is. You're right. less than 175 may not matter. As discussed elsewhere, I only see 200 when I'm really working the beast. I was towing a 2500 lbs trailer a week ago and on the freeway it was still only about somewhere between 150-180 IIRC.
For those hesitant to muck with the plug, you can also glue or solder a flat sensor on the pan or on the plug. Or even use a wireless device as in bbq thermometer. Won't be as nice looking as this job though.
here is a chart showing the effect of temp on ATF life expectancy (found at random on web, so no idea if right, but seems consistent with what I've seen elsewhere):
Synthetic Oils Wholesale - Amsoil Dealer - Synthetic Oil, Lubricants Wholesale for Retailers, Commercial and Private Use This and other sources suggest that if you stay under 175 you're golden...
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'97: 89K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, see Classifieds for SnT, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!)
'03: 112K, the better half's...
DD Accord
souped up DR650
Last edited by e9999; 04-06-08 at 10:32 AM.
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04-06-08, 10:58 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Closer to LAX than the Beach
Posts: 1,516
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Great write up and the install looks really clean...great work...
I will do a tranny temp and water temp when I get an 80...I am all about real gauges and not warning lights...
__________________
Tim Coffey
87 FJ60 SBC 350 SOA and some other stuff SOLD 5-15-07
94 80 with some stuff New to me 04-28-08
TLCA # 6947
Parts and Carb Rebuilds
http://www.marksoffroad.net
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04-06-08, 12:54 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Location: Oregon
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Thanks much,
cc93cruiser:
I'm not sure if the 440/442 tranny has the same thread size on the tranny drain pan or not, but one way to find out is to see if the part number for the tranny drain plug is the same for a 1991/1993 as it is for a 1996. I use the year 1996, since some early 1995s have the old style tranny and just to be sure. Since my local dealer had the drain plug in stock, I'm guessing Toyota uses a standard thread size for most of its auto trannys. For this project I sourced the parts from egauges and several local parts stores.
But egauges.com should have everything for one stop order:
Truck, Van and SUV A-Pillar Mounting: Toyota Land Cruiser - egauges.com
VDO: Vision Black Series Gauges: Transmission Oil Temp. Gauges - Towing - eGauges.com
323-091: Temperature Senders: 400 Farenheit / 200 Celsius: 10-180 Ohms (VDO Range) - egauges.com
I had to paint the pillar to somewhat match my grey interior. I used the "light Acura grey" listed here:
Plastic Paint for Pods, panels, etc.: All Colors - egauges.com
turbocruiser:
Skid plate is definately on the mods list. Good suggestion
Appletech:
I have a feeling that Scangauge may never pull the tranny code, which is why I went this route. After reading some of the conversations people on here have had with them, it appears they need proprietary information that they are probably never going to get. I have the scangauge though and its awesome for the other readings.
e9999:
I have it set up so that if a branch or something catches the wire, it will just pull the wire off the sensor, no big deal. That's why the wire comes in from behind the sensor. I think the sensor is a thermister type. It has a probe and seems like a typical fluid/air thermister type sensor.
Last edited by Brian894X4; 04-06-08 at 01:00 PM.
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04-06-08, 12:55 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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grown up MOD
Join Date: May 2004
Location: 'in dat der briar patch'
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocruiser
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your intricate use of logic always makes me chuckle....................
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"If it wasn't a Landcruiser and hadn't been built the way it was you do realize you would be DEAD." VA State Police Officer
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04-07-08, 08:47 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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I ruin surprises.
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 5,651
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COOL!!
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04-07-08, 10:06 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Closer to LAX than the Beach
Posts: 1,516
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Thanks for the link to egauges....Ordered my Autometer stuff from them last night...now just need to finish the truck hunt...got a couple in mind...
__________________
Tim Coffey
87 FJ60 SBC 350 SOA and some other stuff SOLD 5-15-07
94 80 with some stuff New to me 04-28-08
TLCA # 6947
Parts and Carb Rebuilds
http://www.marksoffroad.net
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04-07-08, 10:36 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Location: Oregon
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Nice job Oregon dude
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1996 TLC, Cooper D. STT 305/70/16, CDL, 7 PIN, OME steer & 850/863, Bilstein HD, IPA fog. Slee's front bumper, skid plate, CC bushings, SS brake lines x 7, light/aux harness & speedo gear. Warn XD 9000, Hanna sliders. 4X4labs rear bumper. OEM sub tank & overhead console. Projection headlamps, clear lenses, rear tail LED, George's inside LED's. MagnFlow exhaust (cat back). Eclipse Nav.
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04-07-08, 10:58 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indy,IN. But currently on the road: SoCal,NV,AZ,NM.
Posts: 1,352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian894X4
I know a lot of people have installed senders in the lines, and other various places, all of which are nice set ups, but I wanted something simple and easy. I wanted to install the sender in place of the drain plug.
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Looks nice. 
Just remember it's not the true temp. A temp from the circulated fuild will give you a more accurate reading of the heat being generated. The pan is going to cool some of the sump fuild at the current configuration as well.
Any data yet?
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04-07-08, 02:25 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
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So far, I've only made short trips in fairly cool weather, but the highest I've seen is what's in the picture at about 165-175, which was about 15-20 minutes of low speed city driving and a few miles on some back country roads.
The only other time is my 4 mile commute to work which takes about 10 minutes. The needle is barely on or above the 150 line by the time I get to work.
If operating temp is 120-180 degrees or so, then it would be interesting to see how much higher in temp the fluid is in other parts of the tranny.
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04-07-08, 02:26 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,727
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the numbers I mentioned are at the beginning of the line to the rad, right after the ATF leaves the trans
__________________
'97: 89K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, see Classifieds for SnT, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!)
'03: 112K, the better half's...
DD Accord
souped up DR650
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04-07-08, 04:45 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Hate that mud...
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mill Valley, CA
Posts: 372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian894X4
...By the way, does anyone know if the stock A/T oil temp idiot light is suppose to come on and then off with the ignition switch like most of the other lights? Because mine doesn’t come on at all...
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The A/T temperature light, together with the low oil level and brake fluid level/parking brake lights, should come on for a few seconds each time you turn the ignition switch to the "start" position.
__________________
Tom Ferrin
N6TEF - 2m and 70cm
1989 FJ-62 - 205K, 3" OME lift, recent engine overhaul, my daily driver
1997 FZJ-80 - 90K, lifted, bumpers, sliders, lockers, OBA, new HG, and Moab-trails tested
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04-07-08, 05:59 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian894X4
So far, I've only made short trips in fairly cool weather, but the highest I've seen is what's in the picture at about 165-175, which was about 15-20 minutes of low speed city driving and a few miles on some back country roads.
The only other time is my 4 mile commute to work which takes about 10 minutes. The needle is barely on or above the 150 line by the time I get to work.
If operating temp is 120-180 degrees or so, then it would be interesting to see how much higher in temp the fluid is in other parts of the tranny.
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Let us know what the temps are after ten miles or more at speeds above 60 mph. I'm guessing they will settle in closer to 180+ at prolonged hiway speeds especially if there are elevation changes.
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Steve Crase TLCA 10222
1988 FJ62 - Bart
1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary #3727 - Sandy
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04-07-08, 08:24 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indy,IN. But currently on the road: SoCal,NV,AZ,NM.
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One more thing I learned from the University of Hardknox. If at some point you start to see the temp go up while you're on the highway for an extended period of time, the torque converter's lockup is starting to fail.
Overhanger, so what have the temps been with the Oz VB?
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04-07-08, 08:36 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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THATSALEXUS?
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,327
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Nice! I like it. Maybe I will finally get that gauge done afterall. I change my ATF on the 80 every oil change and it's always nice and fresh smelling and pink  so maybe my driving like a little old lady really isn't stressing anything out
Maybe once I finally get that S/C mounted in the 'Runner. Too many projects, too little time
__________________
Steve
'97 LX 450 with Slee 6", 35" Toyo's, Slee front, 4X4 Labs rear, Hanna sliders, 5.29's, front and rear chromoly axles and the two Dober's: Zeus and Zoey
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04-08-08, 10:42 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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You want to do what...?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 11,727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 619TOY
Nice! I like it. Maybe I will finally get that gauge done afterall. I change my ATF on the 80 every oil change and it's always nice and fresh smelling and pink  so maybe my driving like a little old lady really isn't stressing anything out
snip
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wow, even I, admittedly superanal about such things, am not changing my ATF at every oil change...
unless you are going synthetic oil and changing it every 15K, then maybe then...
__________________
'97: 89K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, see Classifieds for SnT, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!)
'03: 112K, the better half's...
DD Accord
souped up DR650
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04-11-08, 09:08 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overhanger
Let us know what the temps are after ten miles or more at speeds above 60 mph. I'm guessing they will settle in closer to 180+ at prolonged hiway speeds especially if there are elevation changes.
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I spent a few good hours today in combined highway driving and very bad rush hour traffic with about 75 degree ambient temps. The trans temp never went above the 175 degree line and mostly hovered a tad below it, probably averaging around 160. I imagine the trans wasn't exactly working hard today, though. No major hill climbs or anything like that.
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04-11-08, 09:32 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser Jimmy
One more thing I learned from the University of Hardknox. If at some point you start to see the temp go up while you're on the highway for an extended period of time, the torque converter's lockup is starting to fail.
Overhanger, so what have the temps been with the Oz VB?
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OZ Extreme A440F with OZ VB and torque converter temps have been 125F to 180F around town in city driving and 180F to 200F when good and warmed up on the hiway. I think it is the torque converter that really heats things up and I'm waiting for some extended hiway miles and offroad readings to tell the story more completely. The requisite additional aftermarket ATF cooler is a B&M sandwich style and I'm not sure it's the best choice yet. A similar size but thinner PermaCool seemed to do a better job and let the tranny temps get cooler on extended downhills in the mountains than the B&M seems to be doing. I think more roadtrip testing is in order!
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Steve Crase TLCA 10222
1988 FJ62 - Bart
1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary #3727 - Sandy
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04-11-08, 09:48 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Site Addict
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I've noticed that between 30 minutes to an hour of being on the highway at about 65mph the temp actually start to come down and level off. A decrease from 190 to 180 and leveled off has been seen, that's with a 12"X11" aftermarket transmission cooler and bypassing the stock cooler.
I can't remember where your temp gage was picking up the temp from?
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04-12-08, 10:46 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser Jimmy
I've noticed that between 30 minutes to an hour of being on the highway at about 65mph the temp actually start to come down and level off. A decrease from 190 to 180 and leveled off has been seen, that's with a 12"X11" aftermarket transmission cooler and bypassing the stock cooler.
I can't remember where your temp gage was picking up the temp from?
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You are using a LARGE cooler, aren't you!? The one I'm using is is a little more than half that size but it is in series with the stock, radiator located cooler. Sensor is on the union that connects the tranny fluid outlet to the hard line to the radiator.
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Steve Crase TLCA 10222
1988 FJ62 - Bart
1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary #3727 - Sandy
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04-12-08, 02:09 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Trying to stack dimes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overhanger
You are using a LARGE cooler, aren't you!? The one I'm using is is a little more than half that size but it is in series with the stock, radiator located cooler. Sensor is on the union that connects the tranny fluid outlet to the hard line to the radiator.
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The aux cooler I've got for my A440 is about 12x12. It is also in series with the stock in radiator cooler. My sender is in the return line but the gauge (Nordskog) has been backordered forever so I don't know what temps I'm seeing yet.
__________________
Joel
'89 FJ-62
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04-13-08, 02:49 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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250+ Club
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Did a lot more driving today. Ambient temp was mid 70s. On the open freeway, the temps were the lowest, around 155-160.
When driving slow on a very windy back road, the temps got to around 175. So far, I've not seen more than that.
Again, measured at the pan, not towing, and so far, no major hill climbs or long steep grades.
Oh, and it's got 5 quarts of Mobil 1 in it. I don't know how that affects temps.
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04-13-08, 10:04 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,563
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I like that Pod. Where did you find one that fits an 80?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian894X4
This is what I finally did to install a transmission temp gauge. I know a lot of people have installed senders in the lines, and other various places, all of which are nice set ups, but I wanted something simple and easy. I wanted to install the sender in place of the drain plug.
The problem is the drain plug is M10x1.5. It’s a pretty small plug and after spending almost a week and countless hours searching the web and visiting a local instruments supply store, I came to the conclusion that there was only one temp sending unit on the entire planet that was that size. And there were no adapters in that size to mate to any other sender.
The sending unit is from VDO, part No. 323-091. And I had a hard time finding it. It’s not a common sender at all, but I finally tracked one down. The sending unit matches up with VDO transmission temp gauge part No. 310-107. The problem with this gauge is that it has a range of 150-400 degrees, whereas our transmissions generally run under 200 degrees. To make matters worse, the gauge face basically has 150-200 degree range as the first two hash marks and the 200-400 degree range make up the rest of the gauge range. (See pic in second post) So, most of the time, the needle is going to be setting near the low point.
On the other hand, if the needle is anywhere but the low point, there’s no mistaking that the tranny is headed for trouble. So, in a way it's a glorified idiot light. But at least I'll know the tranny is headed towards overheating before the light kicks on at 300+ degrees.
VDO makes two other temperature gauges. One with a range of 100-250, intended for water temp and one with a range of 120-300, intended for oil temp. Neither will work with this trans sending unit, even though VDO advertises all their sendings units as being 10-180Ohm range. I tried. They end up reading way to too low.
To install, I just removed the stock plug, and drained out almost exactly 5 quarts of tranny fluid (a lot more than the 2 quarts the manual says for some reason). I then installed sender. The head of the sender is smaller than the drain plug, so I couldn’t use the stock crush washer. I made a washer that fit, but I’ll be checking to make sure it doesn’t leak. The number of threads on the sender is the same as the stock drain plug. The sending unit itself protrudes another approximate inch into the pan.
By the way, does anyone know if the stock A/T oil temp idiot light is suppose to come on and then off with the ignition switch like most of the other lights? Because mine doesn’t come on at all. But I definitely have the stock sensor.
Pic 1: Draining the fluid. Strangely 5 quarts came out, even though the book says only 2 should have. But I see this is pretty common from other posts. I took the oppertunity to put back in 5 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF.
Pic 2: The new VDO sender in place. Fortunately, the sender is pretty well protected, so the chances of it getting damaged off road is not huge.
Pic 3: Shows the Land Cruiser A-pillar pod I ordered from "egauges.com". This is an Autometer part. Part no. ATM-15413. Fits the 2-1/16 size gauges. I painted it grey to sort of match the interior. It's shown here with a 100-250 VDO water temp gauge I was experimenting with.
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__________________
Brett in San Antonio
Alamo City Land Cruisers
Lone Star Land Cruisers - Austin
Texas Rovers
South Texas Rovers
'97 Lexus LX 450
'91 Range Rover Classic
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06-13-08, 12:43 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,921
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BRIAN, just a question, I ordered everything on the list and I finally opened up the packages only to find out there is no wiring. Do you run your own wring for it?
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84 FJ60, 256k (Rumpleshank)- suckiest day of my life, WagonGear'd, cleaned, fixed, carb'd, OME lift'd, U-bolts flip'd, Remflex'd and now waiting for a new motor
86 FJ60, 180k (Rizzabella)- just bought it
97 LX450, 227k, non-locked. Expedition vehicle in progress. Auto-up mod, Coolant mod, Garage door mod, Jumper Cables, Dual batteries, Power Distribution 1, 2, 3, 4, Switch mod, Slee harness, Coolant/windshield sensor mod, CDL & 7-pin mod, Dog mod, Drillbit mod, IPOR'd, Yellowbox'd, Scion'd, Trans gauge mod, MAF'd, JDM fan'd, kid seat mod, Factory rack removed 
Mark's Off-Road for all 40,45,60 parts
ふざけんなよ!
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