[Brian894X4]

The gauge pod is from Autometer I believe. eguages.com has them. Fits only 2 1/16th diameter gauges.

As for the wiring, yes, you have run to your own wiring. It's pretty straight forward. S is for Signal or sending unit and that wire runs to the sending until. I tie the light bulb ground and gauge ground together and run that to a ground somewhere. The other two wires are power for the gauge and power for the light. I have my gauges wired to come on with the ignition, which means I tied them into a fuse in the box. I can't remember exactly which fuse it was, but it was one of the fuses that only had power when the ignition was turned on.

I powered the light on the gauge from the tail light fuse, when powers the dash and parking lights, so whenever the parking lights are turned on, the gauge light turns on.

An update on the usability of the gauge. The highest temp that I've ever seen so far was around 170-180ish as measured by the gauge and that was on an extremely hot day while climbing a long highway hill. For normal driving, the gauge seems to indicate right around 150 indicated or just a hair higher (around 160 indicated).

I have to imagine if the tranny ever gets hot enough (300something degrees) to kick off that idiot light, something is has to be really wrong, but then I don't know if towing or severe loads, really kicks up the working temp or not. Maybe 200+ as measured from this place is very common and normal when towing.

In any case, these trannys definately run cool under normal driving.

[Tapage]

I take my signal for my ISSPRO gauge at the same place as the idiot light sender is .. ( output line )



Then I usually see 130ºF temps around the town and as far as I nave only one time 190 after a hard run .. ( I'm running 315 with stock gears )

[calfj60]

I like the gauge pod you got there...was looking for another place cause I got the tranny temp gauige but my pod is full...

[Brian894X4]

Tapage, that's a slick set up. That's ideally what I wanted to do and go with a much better gauge with wider range, but ultimately I got lazy.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

Tapage, that's a slick set up. That's ideally what I wanted to do and go with a much better gauge with wider range, but ultimately I got lazy.

Are not that hard .. with the apropiate tee brass fitting, and the gauge sender .. it's really easy, only un screw and scre back again all together .. up the cable from the sender to the gauge throught the t-case lever and boot and done ..

[NLXTACY]

Brian, finally getting around to putting this all together. Sensor is in, pod is painted. For the wiring, did you make a hole in the A-pillar and plumb the wires down or did you just route them on the side of the dash? And then for the connection to the sensor, where did you route that wire?I was thinking about cutting a small hole in the transfer case boot but not sure if that's a good idea :(

[IBCRUSN]

The bung just below the "T" fitting Tapage shows is a good location. Drill and tap with a 1/8 pipe thread, use some teflon pipe sealant and away you go. There is ample fluid trickling out as you drill/tap to push any metal chips out, just take your time.

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by IBCRUSN

The bung just below the "T" fitting Tapage shows is a good location. Drill and tap with a 1/8 pipe thread, use some teflon pipe sealant and away you go. There is ample fluid trickling out as you drill/tap to push any metal chips out, just take your time.

Has anybody actually tapped the bung that he is referring to? I assume he is talking about the one below the brass T with the white paint-looking stuff on it.

[calfj60]

I have was kinda a pain in the ass and I have a right angle drill, wouldn't try it without one. The hole was easy enough to tap. Put in my autometer sender and never had a leak or worry... I now have all sorts or other transmission issues but I would have never known if not for the gauge instal... hth

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by calfj60

I have was kinda a pain in the ass and I have a right angle drill, wouldn't try it without one. The hole was easy enough to tap. Put in my autometer sender and never had a leak or worry... I now have all sorts or other transmission issues but I would have never known if not for the gauge instal... hth

Thanks for the advice. Did you rely on the trans fluid pouring out to flush metal particles out? Seems like it would be a messy job, but probably the only way to keep shaving out of the trans.

I'm wondering if it would be easier to source a brass T like Tapage did.

I know there was talk about using some sort of epoxy to glue the sender to the transmission. Seems easy enough but I'm not sure how effective it would be.

Another option I thought might work would be to put a T-fitting in the middle of the rubber line on the way to the trans cooler on the radiator. I haven't seen anybody do that, do you guys think it would work?

I would think that this method might yield more accurate results than the trans pan since the hot tranny fluid is not mixing with cooler oil although it might lose a slight amount of heat whilst traveling through the hard line to the rubber line and t-fitting.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by nicholas

Another option I thought might work would be to put a T-fitting in the middle of the rubber line on the way to the trans cooler on the radiator. I haven't seen anybody do that, do you guys think it would work?

sure it will work .. I only have the idea to about place the ISSPRO termo couple in the same place as the factory sender is .. actually very tight place and I had a leak here that need to be corrected

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by Tapage

sure it will work .. I only have the idea to about place the ISSPRO termo couple in the same place as the factory sender is .. actually very tight place and I had a leak here that need to be corrected

I think this is the route I will go since it seems a lot less time consuming than the other methods with probably the same end result.

I would imagine it would be easier to notice leaks with it being in the rubber line since you wouldn't have to climb underneath the rig.

I'll post results when I get a chance to do it.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by nicholas

I think this is the route I will go since it seems a lot less time consuming than the other methods with probably the same end result.

I would imagine it would be easier to notice leaks with it being in the rubber line since you wouldn't have to climb underneath the rig.

I'll post results when I get a chance to do it.

All depends where do you place the sender .. more distance from the tranny less accuracy on the readings ... thought

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by Tapage

All depends where do you place the sender .. more distance from the tranny less accuracy on the readings ... thought

True, but I would think that placing the sender in the rubber line before the radiator would still be more accurate than the pan reading since the fluid does not have a chance to mix with the cooled fluid in the pan.


I am going to use a couple of 1/2" barbed 1/2" male threaded pieces

Brass Fittings - Fittings and Nipples

and joining them with a Tee that has three 1/2" female ends and then installing the autometer sender in the middle.

I will figure out which line is the tranny to cooler line and splice the tee into it. It looks like it will be going into the rubber line located under the front of the engine block just after the metal line from the tranny ends.

Of course there could be a slight drop in temp between where the factory sender located and the end of that metal line where the rubber line connects (where the autometer sender will be located) but I think it will be negligable.

I ordered the parts so I'll post my results when I'm done with the install.

[Tapage]

please keep us posted .

[nicholas]

This is a picture of the fittings I recieved today. I can't say how impressed and pleased I was to work with Fittings and Nipples

I ordered my parts late Tuesday night, received a shipping confirmation email early Wednesday morning, and received the parts via UPS today (Thursday).


You can see I only needed to buy two 1/2" nipples and a 1/2" Tee. The autometer sender came with a bushing adapter that connects the sender to the middle of the 1/2" Tee.

Now I just need to figure out which line is the line leading from the trans to the cooler and splice the Tee in.

Then I need to figure out the wiring. I have never spliced into a fuse box to tap power like someone did earlier in this thread so I might be back with some questions.

[nicholas]

I'm not sure why that second picture posted but disregard it. I am using the top picture with the shorter sending unit.

[calfj60]

The input side of the cooler in the radiator is on the passenger side...Alos if you need anything else answered please let me know..I have taken all the cooler lines out and am very familiar with the whole cooling system outside he tranny...

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by calfj60

The input side of the cooler in the radiator is on the passenger side...Alos if you need anything else answered please let me know..I have taken all the cooler lines out and am very familiar with the whole cooling system outside he tranny...

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. I believe you are talking about the transmission line that goes to the nipple (shown below) on the passenger side lower radiator. I actually removed that line when I was installing the S/C to try to gain more clearance. I thought it was a coolant line since it was going into the main radiator and not the small tranny cooler on the DS.




This rubber line (the far right one) is the from the upper metal tranny line on the drivers side. It curves under the fan shroud and attaches to the nipple on the bottom of the radiator shown above.



It looks like this will be a good spot to splice the brass Tee. I will secure the Tee to the front cross member to keep it from bouncing around and hitting the fan above.

I'll put together another thread that combines this install with a boost gauge for another dual pillar example. It will be a couple of weeks until I have time to do finish the install.

[calfj60]

The upper pic shows the line I was talking about...output of tranny and input into the radiator tranny cooler...I would think your placemnet of your sender should work there...

[Brian894X4]

I'd be interested to hear what normal temps people are getting with their gauge senders installed in the cooling lines, like this set up.

I'm thinking of relocating my sending as a future project.

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by Brian894X4

I'd be interested to hear what normal temps people are getting with their gauge senders installed in the cooling lines, like this set up.

I'm thinking of relocating my sending as a future project.

I haven't had time to do it yet, but I should in about a week or two.

[MIGUELBLUE]

Hello, i have installed one Temp. Gauge from Rodney of WHOLESALE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. It works very well. I'm happy with it.

I put one Picture...............




Miguel

[nicholas]

I installed mine about a week ago but I am wirking out some bugs with the wiring.

The instructions say that the sender should be grounded when installed in the oil pan, but since my sender is in line of the cooling rad rubber hose, it is isolated. However, when I try to ground it, the temp immediately maxes out to top temp when the trans is cold.

[Tapage]

Miguel .. My tranny use to raise mucho more than 150°F .. are your A442 under 150 all the time that you are driving .. ?

[nicholas]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Miguel .. My tranny use to raise mucho more than 150°F .. are your A442 under 150 all the time that you are driving .. ?

What ambient temp do you normally drive in?


It has been pretty cold here with an outside temp usually below 50*F.

So either my trans gauge sender needs to be grounded

or

My trans fluid at the sender has not been any hotter than the lowest mark on my gauge which is 100*.

When I start the truck, the trans temp needle moves up about a needle width, so I know it has power.

However, like I mentioned earlier, if I ground the sender like the instructions say to do, the needle pegs out at max temp immediately.

I will have some time this week to tinker with it. I am going to try two experiments.

1)Try to ground the sender from a different point on the sender. Instead grounding the sender to the bolt that the sender wire is attached to on the sensor, I will clamp a wire to the brass Tee to see if the unit operates by measuring a voltage drop or something.

2)If that doesn't work I will carefully use a propane torch on a really low setting and use some indirect heat to manually heat the brass tee and sender to a temperature that feels hotter than 100*

I have a feeling that my #2 will determine the issue since even after hard city driving the brass tee and my trans pan are only warm to the touch.

[Tapage]

usually around 30°C here in Panamá ... but sure under heavy traffic it raise much more under the hood .. sure always AC on ..

[MIGUELBLUE]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Miguel .. My tranny use to raise mucho more than 150°F .. are your A442 under 150 all the time that you are driving .. ?

Hellow Tapage, my Temp Gauge is not in º F is in Degrees. In Australia and in Europe we don't measure in º F.

Regards

Miguel

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by MIGUELBLUE

Hellow Tapage, my Temp Gauge is not in º F is in Degrees. In Australia and in Europe we don't measure in º F.

Regards

Miguel

Ok .. my fault .. yours is in °C .. in that case I thought your guage it's litte useless due to the normal temp range that use the A442

Actually the higher temp that I saw in my gauge are about 190°F in a really hot day with AC and heavy traffic.

That means around 87.78°C

[nicholas]

I figured out how to ground the sender properly.

If you look in the pictures of the Tee/sender above you will notice that there are two nuts on the tip of the sender that secure the wire that connects the the sender tab on the gauge.

The sender should be automatically grounded installed in the trans or a metal trans pan.

Since my sender is isolated in a rubber line I needed to ground the sender by attaching an additional ground wire from the frame to the "neck" of the sender body just below the two nuts that hold the sender wire.

I heated the Tee with a hot air gun until it was a just a bit too hot to touch.

I turned on the ignition and the gauge read 150*F so it appears to be working.

I need to figure out how to secure the wire to the brass sender. I tried soldering it but it doesn't appear to be a very strong connection. I might just grab a hose clamp and clamp it too the sender. Maybe I'll wrap the wire around the sender really tight then coat it in steelfast of JB weld.

Anyone have a better idea?

I'll post some numbers on the temps my gauge is reading from this cooling line location in various outdoor temps.