[ncrockinfj]

wow I want one nice clean install btw

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by JPHockerAZ

On the 97 model there are Id1, ID2, Id3 AND Id4. Id4 has all the wires for the subtank system.

See newly inserted picture in Post #1, Kick Panel Wiring:

In the case of my '97, here are the wires (plug name, color code, slot, purpose) involved from the floor harness, all of which I brought into a new Toyota connector I called ID5:

From ID3, P, slot 7. Dash switch to ECU.
From ID3, P-B, slot 8. Oz EWD says fuel filter light...not used on petrol models
From ID3, B-R, slot 10. Will connect to wire previously run from fuse block ECU-B fuse.
From IL4 (the dead end connector), B-L, Needs to be extracted and connected to the D1 Data Link Connector by way of a tap into slot 5 of connector "B" on the ABS ECU (also located in the kick panel.)
From IL4 (the dead-end floor harness connector) the FIRST Y-L wire. Per the master diagram this connects to the “CHARGE” light on the Combination Meter.
From ID1, Y-L, slot 21. The SECOND Y-L wire. This runs from the subtank and carries the “tank level ” signal up to the overhead console.
From ID3, P-G, slot 9. Dash switch.

Also the main wiring diagram suggests a Y-R wire running from the ECU to the main fuel gauge light. This is already present in ID1, Y-R, slot 17, fuel sender. No extraction or modification necessary as it is already wired from the rear through the ECU connector and up to the combination meter. It also calls for a B-W wire for ECU power...this too is already in place and not necessary to be tapped into or run.

The P-G wire shows as P-B on the master diagram and is actually P-L on my 1994 donor pigtail. On my 1997 US truck it is P-G at the ECU connector and P-G when it enters ID3.

This stuff is simple to beep out if you have an ohmmeter. Once you confirm which wires you need, just extract them from the connectors using the approved Toyota method and group them all into a new 10 or 12-pin Toyota housing. Then your power, overhead gauge level, dash switching, ground, DLC and charge light wires all come from those respective sources into the other side of your new connector. You don't have to have an overhead gauge for this to work.

[1FZj80]

I installed my sub-tank, sourced from SOR, several years ago (minus your cool OEM control system). On my setup, the fill pipe diameter on the sub-tank is smaller than the diameter of the main tank and that of the filler neck assembly. This required me to rig up a sleeve to slide into the tubing between the sub-tank and the fill neck. Does your setup also have different pipe diameters of the sub-tank and fill neck? If so, is there a reducer or increaser to accomodate this.

Mark S.
San Diego
'94 1FZJ80

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by 1FZj80

Does your setup also have different pipe diameters of the sub-tank and fill neck? If so, is there a reducer or increaser to accomodate this.

Nope, mine are both the same size and the OEM hoses fit perfectly, though I had to remove about 1" in length on the hose between the filler neck and subtank.

[matt49]

so i wanna do this install on my 94, if i can get the proper, jdm or oz spec tank with the proper hole on the top is there any additional parts from ur list i need to get, these are the parts i have so far

80 series subtank, dual filler, tank straps, overhead console w/gauges, t-fitting, 5 rivnuts, transfer pump assembly, subtank dash switch,

.....so what i'm asking is for a list of oem parts i'd need to order, and feel free to cut paste from the list but yaa......please help, again awsome install u guys

also....does the JDM/OZ SPEC main tank mount the same way or would i need additional parts for that?

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by matt49

so i wanna do this install on my 94, if i can get the proper, jdm or oz spec tank with the proper hole on the top

- I'd suggest you locate, price and arrange for that main tank first if you would rather go that way. Dave Stedman can get you a new one. Its going to cost you a lot more to go that route than to buy my ring and have a tank shop install the switch. Your call, but if you can survive the cost of getting a main tank, that's the first hurdle.

- You need an ECU. New they are ~$240 from Japan and used they range from $150-200 in Oz salvage yards.

- You mention a t-fitting but if you are going to go to the trouble of getting a non-USA tank, you need to get the fuel pump bracket (shown in post #1) that accepts the fuel supply line from the subtank and avoid teeing into any lines.

- You need to make sure your dash switch is the 7 pin model. If you can locate the female connector PN 90980-10801, that will help. You will also either need to find a Toyota wiring harness for donor male/female wiring ends, or you'll have to buy lots of splices and they are $$.

- Your tank will fit, so I wouldn't worry about that. But you do need to confirm that you have the right petrol sender. Threads here on Mud about that. PN 83320-69215

- You need to decide if you are going to cut your main tank pipe or replace it with a non-USA fill pipe.

Originally Posted by matt49

80 series subtank, dual filler, tank straps, overhead console w/gauges, t-fitting, 5 rivnuts, transfer pump assembly, subtank dash switch,

There is probably never going to be a turn-key " parts list" simply because every truck is different pre and post 95, USA or non, and petrol or diesel. But if you work against this thread and the others here, you will finally get everything together where you can start. I'd do it in sections, the wiring first, followed by the transfer pump/solenoid install. Then I'd get the subtank rivnuts in and testfit that. You'll do the the subtank, fillerneck and main pipe cut at the same time because of the hoses and the need to not have any open plumbing. Last step would be to do the main tank, run your supply line and then test your circuits with the ECU.

FYI, we are hearing that the #3 rear floor subtank-to-rear crossmember wire (about 18 inches long) PN 82169-60020 is no longer available. No biggie but you'll just need to do some simple custom wiring if you don't have that with your tank.

[Dogburn]

Jim,

Thanks a million for posting all this info on the subtank install. I have a couple of technical questions to ask about your install, would you prefer I ask them in the thread or by email?

Thanks,

-Danny

[elmariachi]

Sure, if its relevant, post here.

[Beowulf]

Nicely done Jim. Thanks for this and other contributions to the overall knowledge of the 80-Series and, in particular, to the sub-tank knowledge.

-B-

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Nicely done Jim. Thanks for this and other contributions to the overall knowledge of the 80-Series and, in particular, to the sub-tank knowledge. -B-

Thanks Mike! This forum is great.

[ParadiseCruiser]

Well done, Jim. My hat's off to ya. In fact, I hereby pass on that old dusty early subtank mod hat to ya

Now, all we need is a pic of the driver's side door jam

Cheers, R -

[akraven]

MAybe one of the mods can get this added to the FAQ> Excellent work!!

[elmariachi]

I just completed modifying my driver's side sunvisor to accommodate the overhead console (passenger side tomorrwo night.) Pics are in the first post of this thread.

[reffug]

Added to the FAQ as it goes nicely with the write up Ken had already done.

Nice work as always Jim.

[Cruiser804]

Wow, back to the drawing board. I wished I'd of waited to install my overhead console. I made my own harness. Did you take down the head liner? There's not a heck of a lot of room to work up there.

Also, I installed an pre 95 tan console. Other thaa having to replace the 2 forward bolts and trimming the headliner is looks and fits great. The color is the same as the dash and different than the plastic piece that houses the light and sun roof switch but it looks good.

In the third pick the picture the gap appear larger than it really is.

Also, great work on the visors. I gave up searching for them and had an upholstery shop modify mine. Wished I hadn't.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Cruiser804

Wow, back to the drawing board. I wished I'd of waited to install my overhead console. I made my own harness. Did you take down the head liner? There's not a heck of a lot of room to work up there.

I did remove both visors, a-pillar cover, grab handles and the mirror when I ran the harness. Then I used a fish tape and started from the opening and went across and down the pillar. I pulled a steel wire up then pulled the harness back down. It was a PITA, but only took 30 minutes.

Here is the cut to accommodate the backside of the gauge housing. You'll notice I removed half of the headliner material where the mirror mounts. That was a mistake because the mirror vibrated at road speed. So I went back in and glued that piece back in. Also note the OEM wiring harness connection



I'll post more pics in the daylight but I am very happy with the results. Again, this is a grey console that I painted with Oak 42 spray:

[JPHockerAZ]

Here is a picture pulled from OZ Ebay of a main tank with the fuel level switch for more reference.

[JPHockerAZ]

In wiring the subtank switch follow the following steps.
Pin 1 Dimmer (White Green Tracer)
Pin 2 12v switched power (Solid Green)
Pin 3 ECU Transfer signal (Pink/Yellow, or Pink/Blue)
Pin 4 Ground
Pin 5 Empty
Pin 6 Power (I used the cigarette lighter grey wire)
Pin 7 Has a pin on switch but not used
Pin 8 Empty
Pin 9 ECU switching wire (Pink)
Pin 10 Empty

Notice you use 6 wires and not 7 even though the switch has 7 pins. I only ran the two ECU wires over from the kickpanel. Everthing else I got from the cigarette lighter stuffs.

[JPHockerAZ]

For those with subtank pulled from diesels. You will have 2 tubes coming from your tank. In the past most people just plug the smaller one. But for the correct OEM installation you can add the correct pickup tube for this installation and not have to plug a line. El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by JPHockerAZ

El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

Its been added to the original parts list. Thanks Joel.

[Japan4X4]

And if you don't want a used tank contact me :-) One sitting in shipping right now, big box but not heavy.

[Cruiser804]

Originally Posted by JPHockerAZ

For those with subtank pulled from diesels. You will have 2 tubes coming from your tank. In the past most people just plug the smaller one. But for the correct OEM installation you can add the correct pickup tube for this installation and not have to plug a line. El Mariachi may add the part # to post 1 shortly, it is 77017-60300.

Dave I'd need to add this to my quote. I'll send you an email

Jon

[sethro]

I started accumulating parts to do this exact upgrade...





Then I just decided to install a 4 cyl cummins turbo diesel instead of the sub tank.







I'm sure we can go the same distance between fill-ups.








Nice write up, I can totally appreciate all the time you put into the swap. Good job!

I shall call you "el mariachi del subtank"

[SunTzuMD]

Hmm, it seems like my move to Okinawa Japan is a perfect time to start collecting this stuff! Would the Okinawa junk yards be a good place to source some of these parts?

[Japan4X4]

Originally Posted by SunTzuMD

Hmm, it seems like my move to Okinawa Japan is a perfect time to start collecting this stuff! Would the Okinawa junk yards be a good place to source some of these parts?

Sub tanks were never offered in Japan.

There are no junk yards in Japan as you envision, crush, melt and retool is the order of the day here.

[Cruiser804]

I thought I would add this. Really the idea came from Jim but the irrational need for OEM stuff is my personal issue.

Anyway, after talking Jim about my install, still in progress, I decided I wanted to add the OEM subtank access cover.

The location is already stamped in the rear floor. See picture one (Beno's pic). I took a 3 1/2 hole saw to cut the large opening and drilled two holes for the plastic nut certs and then squared them with rectangular file.

Here are the part numbers required.

2 Screws, subtank cover 93530-25012 2 Inserts 90189-05016 1 Inspection plate 58325-90K00 1 Packing 58339-90K00
1.) floor stamping
2.) holes drilled, squared, primed and painter
3.) with plastic nutcerts installed
4.) Cover with packaging installed
5.) Finished product

[Cruiser804]

final two pictures.

[JPHockerAZ]

Nice work!

[elmariachi]

Good job! Here's what it looks like with a tank underneath:

[JPHockerAZ]

Yours Jim? looks like i'm behind on the times. My overhead gauge stoped reading the other day too.....

Good thread revival and motivation.