Project Onboard Air: York Compressor

[lumpdog]

Perfect then, I will find something out by this weekend then.

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by lumpdog

I might be able to get a local fab shop to make some of my mounts if there is enough interest.

doh! count me in as well!

[theferg]

Appletech, Any chance you could share the name of the place where you picked up your York?--the one where they have oodles and oodles of Volvos....

-Ferg-

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by theferg

Appletech, Any chance you could share the name of the place where you picked up your York?--the one where they have oodles and oodles of Volvos....

-Ferg-

PM'd

-Phil

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by NaterGator

You are going to want a coalescing filter before your manifold because the yorks blow by alot of oil, and it becomes ALOT of oil at higher revs. Not to mention it will keep moisture and dirt down in the system and protect the switch, etc. It will also keep you from having to open the bung on your tank as often.

[quote=jonheld;3093595]

Originally Posted by AppleTech

OK, so here's my current schematic - let me know if you guys see any potential issues with it! Your feedback is much appreciated since this is my first foray into any type of air system.
QUOTE]

You won't be happy with that design. As mentioned, the Yorks blow copious amounts of oil/water/poop. Have a looksee at my design on my website. I put the tank first in line to collect the liquids and solids, followed by the coalescing filter to remove the airborne poop. That feeds the regulator and then out to the system.

So take a look at Rev 1 - I changed the flow of air:



Compressor -> Check Valve -> .5 gallon "gunk tank" -> Filter -> 2.5G main tank -> Air Manifold -> etc.

I thought using a small tank would be nice because it would be easy to dismount and clean occasionally instead of undoing the whole main tank. Not sure if this will cause any pressure issues? I assume no, as long as it is the same max PSI as the main tank?

Also, a regulator was mentioned - what is the need for this? Any thoughts appreciated here - as I'm just learning this stuff

Thanks,
Phil

[jonheld]

No real need for 2 tanks. I drain mine 2 or 3 times a season and empty the bowl on the coalescing filter at the same time. No big deal. One thing to keep in mind when hooking all this up is that many air tanks have several ports to choose from. Keep the main output from the tank as high as possible. This lets gravity help keep the solids/liquids down in the tank and puts less of a load on the filter.

I use a regulator to bring the tank pressure (150 PSI) down to a usable level for air tools (90 psi), filling tires (70 psi), inflating mattresses or toys (20-40 psi).

If you're going to use this air system for air lockers, that pressure should be kept as low as possible to give reliable locking. This will insure the seals in the diffs last forever. ARB specs between 70 and 90 PSI, but the pressure switch that they use is not always calibrated properly. I replaced mine years ago after I put a gauge on it and saw it was way over 90. I run just on the high side of 74 IIRC, but it's been a while since I checked that.

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by jonheld

No real need for 2 tanks. I drain mine 2 or 3 times a season and empty the bowl on the coalescing filter at the same time. No big deal. One thing to keep in mind when hooking all this up is that many air tanks have several ports to choose from. Keep the main output from the tank as high as possible. This lets gravity help keep the solids/liquids down in the tank and puts less of a load on the filter.

I use a regulator to bring the tank pressure (150 PSI) down to a usable level for air tools (90 psi), filling tires (70 psi), inflating mattresses or toys (20-40 psi).

If you're going to use this air system for air lockers, that pressure should be kept as low as possible to give reliable locking. This will insure the seals in the diffs last forever. ARB specs between 70 and 90 PSI, but the pressure switch that they use is not always calibrated properly. I replaced mine years ago after I put a gauge on it and saw it was way over 90. I run just on the high side of 74 IIRC, but it's been a while since I checked that.

OK - makes sense. What is the danger with filling up tires with the full load?

Thanks,
Phil

[jonheld]

LOL, no danger. I use a 4 way manifold with a gauge to fill my tires. I can't keep the locking tire chuck on the fill port above 70 or 80. It blows right off. Takes slightly longer to fill my tires, but it stays put while I do other things as I air up. I have a better system in mind. When I have nothing better to do I'll get on it.

[lumpdog]

My compressor turns on and off at 90/125 psi. Most shops run 150 psi for air tools and tires air ups, at least all the shops I have worked at have..

[dgranth]

Lumpdog - Elegant setup... I might actually have a reason to get that York out of the back of the garage...

[lumpdog]

Well guys, I chatted with my local fab shop, and it looks like we may be able to get this going. May know a little bit more soon.

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by lumpdog

Well guys, I chatted with my local fab shop, and it looks like we may be able to get this going. May know a little bit more soon.

This is me STOKED!!!

[lumpdog]

I am going to pop up a new thread about the brackets.

[lumpdog]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ml#post3107864

That is the link to the possible production thread. If you have posted already here, please repost on that thread so I can get a head count!

Thanks

[alia176]

Here's a nice wiring diagram that can be useful pic

Your York clutch is replacing the elec air comp, otherwise, everything else is the same.

You can use a lighted switch with this diagram so that the light comes on when the York is running and the light goes off when the York is stopped (reached pressure). No need for a separate light or a press gauge inside the cab for a clean look.

Good luck.

[Brian Macgyver]

We are reinventing the old wagon wheel. Wooden spokes and all!
In the early '80's we used to use older Chevy trucks to chase desert buggies all over the desert in off-road racing. We used York Compressors to make air systems on-board. We also used engine-driven generaters to run welders in the middle of nowhere.
Then we invented high-output alternators and power inverters. It is a new world!
Many new cars are not even using a drive belt to run the AC. They have an all-electric AC unit that runs off of the alternator. The engine makes the electricity, and the systems use it.
12 volt electric compressors are more efficient than the old belt-driven ones are. Even 110 volt compressors are easier to connect than the belt-driven types. Both types push more air for the fuel used than the old styles can.
The 110 volt ones require the use of an inverter that also allows the use of other appliances while camping. Margaritas, anyone?? With crushed ice! Lunch? Put it in the microwave!
Putting a compressor into the engine bay of an old Chevy truck was no problem. The bay was the size of a locomotive with very little in it. The 80 engine bay is as full as it can get on a good day. Shall we add a new belt and one more system? A stronger alternater takes up very little space, if it is even needed.

[alia176]

Originally Posted by Brian Macgyver

12 volt electric compressors are more efficient than the old belt-driven ones are. .

You'd be hard pressed to inflate a set of 35" tires from 15 to 35 psi using a 12vdc elec air compressor in less than 20 mins. A mechanical York or Sanden can easily beat that!! Regardless, this thread isn't about the merit of elec vs mech so I'll keep my mouth shut

[jonheld]

Originally Posted by Brian Macgyver

Both types push more air for the fuel used than the old styles can.

Back in 2002 I made a spreadsheet with specs of the available 12V compressors on the market at that time. The ExtremeAir was way ahead of all of them with 4 CFM@0 psi. However the specs for the TrailHead unit (A York driven with a winch motor) came in at 14 CFM@0 psi and 8 CFM at 100 PSI.

A decent shop compressor will be belt driven with an oil reservoir. While the drive motor is electric, the compressor head is belt driven. Any of the 110VAC package units (direct drive) that I have found cannot compete with a belt drive unit.

I'm not saying that you can't have OBA with an electric package unit. Many have that and are happy. However an OBA system is not simply a compressor. You need a pressure vessel to provide any sort of volume and space is limited unless you want to go with a custom made tank for your vehicle. With my small tank (2.5 gal) and my York running off the motor at 1500 RPM, the compressor cycles regularly while airing up 4 tires at the same time.

[Brian Macgyver]

[quote=alia176;3108428]You'd be hard pressed to inflate a set of 35" tires from 15 to 35 psi using a 12vdc elec air compressor in less than 20 mins. A mechanical York or Sanden can easily beat that!! Regardless, this thread isn't about the merit of elec vs mech so I'll keep my mouth shut The 12v compressor that you mention and the ones that I have in mind are different animals. I have one that clips to the battery terminals, and takes 30-40 minutes to air me up. Several companies make 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower 110v compressors with small tanks. They are designed for contracters to run nail guns and such. Some of the companies also make the units in a 12v version for mounting in work trucks. The 12v versions are not cheap. It is those 12v compressors that I was talking about.

[AppleTech]

So I picked up an H4 switch out of an FJ62 to install into my dash as the On/Off of the compressor. I re-labled it and it does illuminate at night (but it's not wired up yet):



I had to remove the wood to install my swithes - anything that works good for getting rid of that stupid residue? I used Goo-Gone, but as you can see it didn't do a great job.

The light switches are going to be for my front lights (whenever I get an ARB) and my please-don't-rearend-me-because-of-the-dust lights:



-Phil

[lumpdog]

Very nice switch mount. I need to have my buddy post up pics of his setup, he has some nice switches as well. I have a rear defrost switch to use for the York, it is a timed on switch, so we will see how it works.

[AppleTech]

For anyone inspired or semi-inspired by this thread, I am selling some York compressors that I am able to grab locally. Selling for $60 + shipping. Let me know if you would like one in this thread. Info on how I test the compressors before purchase can be found here as well.

Head on over to this thread to sign up for one of Lumpdog's 1FZ-FE brackets. Slee also sells a kit on their website.

-Phil

[AppleTech]

So i just ordered a VIAIR 2.5g low profile tank that will fit up between the spare tire holder and rear axle.

My understanding is that the air coming out of the York will be very hot, thus you should use metal hose for the outlet... since I am going straight into my tank (at the back of the truck) from the outlet (front of the truck), how should i handle this? It wouldn't be cost effective to use metal braided line all the way back there, would it? Should I switch to standard air line after a certain length of braided line? Any advice here would be great.

Also, does anyone know a good source for the 1/4" NPT fittings, valves, gauges, lines, etc?

Thanks,
Phil

[EricG]

Originally Posted by AppleTech

Also, does anyone know a good source for the 1/4" NPT fittings, valves, gauges, lines, etc?

I got most of my stuff from McMaster, and 4WheelParts.

[lumpdog]

Ok Phil, here's the skinny.

You should use a Teflon lined stainless steel wrapped hose for the first couple of feet or so, then you can run the DOT plastic airline from there to the tank. I run the DOT air hose everywhere since it is good for cold temps and some mild heat. Where it gets close to the exhaust wrap it with some header wrap to keep it from melting. I didn't and melted a tiny hole in the plastic.