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Old 04-15-08, 06:06 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #151 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC80Ducati996 View Post
Oh the exhuast is some of the best I have seen...

One thing I would do different for a number of reasons is a side exit just before the rear wheel well.
Side exits are no good for us here, deep fast running water will stall the engine, and the water will run up the exhaust and fill the engine.

We also do hours and hours of driving [1000 miles a day +] sometimes to get where we are going for outback travel etc, so a side exit would just drive you mad on the road with the noise.


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Old 04-15-08, 07:37 AM   #152 (permalink)
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Was thinking more on the lines of this with a removable stack..






I guess a side exit with a a QD snorkle off would be louder...

Rear doors on an 80 are much closer to the wheel well. Tight if possible at all.

Also one could make rear exit and put a QD hanger for the stack off a rear spare rack or ladder.
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Old 04-15-08, 03:39 PM
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Old 04-15-08, 03:47 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Is there any way we could just have a thread where the guy shows off his build?


And it's "moot point," not "mute point."

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Old 04-15-08, 05:12 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Is there any way we could just have a thread where the guy shows off his build?


And it's "moot point," not "mute point."

x2 Holy crap, guys. Shut your yappers and you may learn something. I don't give a rats ass if it's how you would do it or not.

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Dewd- You would bend those spindles if I tucked them into the passenger seat You are a candidate for a bobbed 80----not a high clearance bumper.
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Old 04-15-08, 06:11 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LC80Ducati996 View Post
Was thinking more on the lines of this with a removable stack..

I guess a side exit with a a QD snorkle off would be louder...

Rear doors on an 80 are much closer to the wheel well. Tight if possible at all.

Also one could make rear exit and put a QD hanger for the stack off a rear spare rack or ladder.
Wouls be overkill for us, as the design on the truck covers what we need, though we are adding a resonator tomorrow, to the tail pipe, stop a little droning.

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Old 04-18-08, 04:43 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Leave it to the Greeks to put the tires on backwards........

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Old 04-26-08, 11:37 PM   #157 (permalink)
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seen and driven a few US hummers like that too.

Look around a motor pool and you will see a good bit of that.

Yet to notice any difference. Outer lugs are angled the other way so that might be it..

The MT are not the only style you see either wrangler RTII are the other but bias ply.

Any how... DETAILS on the front for link please!
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Old 04-27-08, 05:50 AM   #158 (permalink)
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offtopic,

but dont mils pec hummers run random reverse pattern, so the tracks left cant tell very easily which direction the vehicle was heading ?

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Old 04-27-08, 08:39 AM   #159 (permalink)
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offtopic,

but dont mils pec hummers run random reverse pattern, so the tracks left cant tell very easily which direction the vehicle was heading ?
Exactly Right!

(Still anyone who knows how vehicles steer and such can tell the difference especially with just one set of tracks to follow. I've also seen all four tires reversed but rarely all four are forward.) Anyways, that's the theory alright and I should also say it works best with 4 wheel steering as opposed to the typical setup.

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Old 04-27-08, 10:56 AM   #160 (permalink)
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still off topic, but wouldn't just the rear two tires make the difference since they leave the last track?

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Old 04-27-08, 11:10 AM   #161 (permalink)
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still off topic, but wouldn't just the rear two tires make the difference since they leave the last track?
Not whilst cornering - even a 4WSteer vehicle has a slightly different arc from front to rear and a 2WSteer conventional setup magnifies that effect. Keep in mind that if a vehicle or a group of vehicles come to a stop somewhere and "turn around" you can tell right away about which way they came and which way they went but if you hit their trail perpendicular to progress in either direction it is extremely hard to tell which way they came or which way they went without tracking that track sometimes hundreds of miles to their conclusion point, or, to their starting point. It is just one of many mechanisms to confuse things and I know that however effective it was, or was not, I saw countless embassy vehicles and military vehicles getting rotated every which way but normal in shops all around the world. HTH.

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Old 04-27-08, 10:05 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Back on topic..


The front four link from that flexi flat bed...
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Old 04-28-08, 07:16 PM   #163 (permalink)
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How did the big trip to the High Country go?
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Old 06-06-08, 03:56 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Bump for a great thread

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Old 06-06-08, 05:13 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Speaking of monstrous Yotas. How about this Artic set-up Hilux / Tacoma.
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Old 06-06-08, 05:19 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Speaking of monstrous Yotas. How about this Artic set-up Hilux / Tacoma.
uh... random

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Old 06-06-08, 09:25 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Speaking of monstrous Yotas. How about this Artic set-up Hilux / Tacoma.
It's a Hi Lux D4D 3.0 Turbo Intercooled, 1KD-FTV ECU controled common rail y varliable vane turbo.

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 06-08-08, 12:15 AM   #168 (permalink)
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The bad thing about going 14" travel in the rear without freeing the front is some unwanted movement.

ESPECIALLY when going down an off-camber spot. Going up it flexes sweet and you have no issues. When you start going on a trail or big obstacle, the front dictates where it goes and the whole body follows it.

this is where a 3 link would really help up front.
true. so true
also having that flexy rear on an 80 can be dangerous with how stiff the front is. I hate the way the front unloads all the time-so much energy bound up in that stiff front end

Quote:
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I prefer a parallel four link front. This is what the truck with the y rear link has in front.. If you bust one link and there is still 3 left with one on the other side of the axle. On a 3 link if the single upper link pops.. look out.
so build the 3 link so it dont bust. an 80 front has only 2 frame links for the radius arms. Bust one of them and there will be major carnage. but they never break.

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Old 09-01-08, 02:22 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Well,

been a very busy time, but managed to get some more pics of some of the things ROOBY has had done over the last little while.

Fiting the supercharger a little while ago created some issues with the knock sensors on the engine, bringing on the check engine light, and default backed off timing on the computer, which didnt help power, or economy, and to overcome the issues, we have now fitted a microtech computer piggy backed with the original ECU so cold idle, A/C idle up, and auto shifting etc is all controlled by the factory ecu, and the microtech does the rest.

The supercharger is a CAPA kit, with V1 Vortech unit [that needs a new rubber hose from the unit to the piping we made, and the soap doesnt like the paint we painted the pipe with either.] I was going to turbo the car originally, but when this kit came along at a price to good to refuse second hand, I thought it was worth trying.



Microtech havent had the best name in the past, as being very simple units, but when tuned with the laptop and microtech software, you get double the plot points to set at for timing/fuel etc, and running it piggy backed to the factory ECU to control the other parts we wanted.

Currently, the 5200 rpm readline sees the kw and nm still climbing and not tapering off pulling 9 psi of boost. [should be a 6.5 psi kit and pulley] so we have gone 2 heat ranges cooler in the spark plugs, but an intercooler may be next, to prevent detonation, rising intake temps.

We have also installed a Malpassi rising rate fuel reg, and Bosch fuel pump, to stop the injectors going onto max duty cycle. [reg with fuel pressure gauge fitted below] as wella s a vn air temp sensor in the pipes after the supercharger, and a second toyota coolant temp sensor, as we couldnt piggy back that voltage to both units, so we gave them a sensor each.



On 37's we are seeing 182kw and 608Nm [aprox] at the rear wheels, and on the hwy economy seems to be slightly better than standard 4.5 while pushing the 37"s. Did a high country snow trip with Craigs group 2 weekends ago, and at alititude, on the hwy, general driving around, the extra torque has been really nice.

Holding the foot flat on the road and letting the ecu shift second has created an issue with the vehicle spinning the left hand front 37 " tyre as it bangs second gear though, so a 2wd/4wd conversion is next, as the car is also spinning the fronts when driving/cornering more spirited than normal, even up to 80kph+.

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Old 09-01-08, 02:45 PM   #170 (permalink)
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9 PSI .. how far are your EGT at 9 PSI .. of boost .. ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-01-08, 04:09 PM   #171 (permalink)
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That's 244hp and 448.4 ft lbs at the rear wheels running 37s and stock gears. Seems a little high for only 9lbs of boost.

I also see a MAF sensor and they saturate early on in boost. How is it you can manage fuel in that condition?

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Old 09-01-08, 04:19 PM   #172 (permalink)
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That's 244hp and 448.4 ft lbs at the rear wheels running 37s and stock gears. Seems a little high for only 9lbs of boost.

I also see a MAF sensor and they saturate early on in boost. How is it you can manage fuel in that condition?
If you read a little more in the posts, you might see it isnt "stock gears" at all

as for the MAF, we have installed the microtech so we can easily revert to stock ecu with 4 plugs if required, so the MAF only works if we run the stock ecu.

Fuel is managed by the computer, the rising rate fuel reg [as mentioned] and the larger fuel pump.

Tapage,

the high boost is right at the max rpm, its not there all the time, and less so, with the amount of torque it makes, to shift to the next gear, rather than let it rev, which makes it a much nicer unit to drive on the larger wheels.

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Old 09-01-08, 06:30 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Tapage,

the high boost is right at the max rpm, its not there all the time, and less so, with the amount of torque it makes, to shift to the next gear, rather than let it rev, which makes it a much nicer unit to drive on the larger wheels.
Did you also take some AFR measure at this top WOT point @ 9 PSI .. ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-02-08, 03:48 AM   #174 (permalink)
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We also added a Autron cruise control unit, to help on the long drives, and wuith the speed cameras, and have found it to be great, as you can adjust the sensitivity of the unit, and the LEd is green when turned on, orange when activated.




The green switch on the right locks up the torque convertor in any gear, and the brown one links the 2 batteries bypassing the red arc unit for winching etc.

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Old 09-02-08, 02:11 PM   #175 (permalink)
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If you read a little more in the posts, you might see it isnt "stock gears" at all
.
what do gears have to do with the power she makes?

Im a sceptic. 450 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on only 9psi??? do you have a map of the dyno run.

perhaps its poss if you are well over 5000 rpms. hows that centrif blower doing at down lower on the tach?

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Old 09-02-08, 05:08 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Of course, we put a port in the exhaust specifically for this, closer than the tail pipe, so we got more accurate readings sooner to do so. We have extractors jet hot coated, with a 3' mandrel exhaust, and a straight through muffler .
nice .. but the EGT numbers are .. ?

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We spent a lot of time on AFR so we could improve the economy where it was needed, so it now gets 18 lt per 100km hwy [13.2 miles per gallon US] about the same as a standard one here with accessories, but on 37"s [with the ratio change in my sig, land tank ] mixture of hwy/city.
and the AFR is .. 10.8 or less .. ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-02-08, 05:53 PM
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Old 09-02-08, 07:46 PM   #177 (permalink)
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nice .. but the EGT numbers are .. ?



and the AFR is .. 10.8 or less .. ?
Would have to look up the EGT's, 11 was what we were aiming for A/F, but we werent expecting to see the boost we did when we were looking at that during the planning.

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Old 09-03-08, 03:41 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Would have to look up the EGT's, 11 was what we were aiming for A/F, but we werent expecting to see the boost we did when we were looking at that during the planning.
11 sounds fair .. at 9PSI .. very impresive anycase you build.

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-03-08, 06:59 PM   #179 (permalink)
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11 sounds fair .. at 9PSI .. very impresive anycase you build.
Thanks,

given the kit is supposed to be a 6.5 lb boost kit, we were very surprised, and we have added extractors and 3" exhaust on it, and our own supercharger spring set up turbo smart blow off, rather than the bosch unit it comes with, to make sure its not cavitasting at idle in the intake, and in speaking with the manufacturers, the v1 should easily run 12 psi of boost, so something to look forward to after the intercooler.

I know my old turbo motor was running 20 psi on lpg intercooled way back when, and was making 285 rw kw at all 4 wheels, in an auto 80.

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Old 09-05-08, 08:33 AM
Atticus
This message has been deleted by Romer. Reason: Uneeded Crap will not be tolerated
Old 09-05-08, 03:01 PM   #180 (permalink)
Turbo Diesel Lover

 
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Panamá
Posts: 11,429
Damn .. ! Mr. Romer clean this thread !

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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