[p8nt]

This is what I get for procrastinating. I gather these brackets are long long with no plans on returning?

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by p8nt

This is what I get for procrastinating. I gather these brackets are long long with no plans on returning?

I still have some and am trying to keep making them for folks that want to do this upgrade. PM me or use the email in this link if you are interested.

Bill

[Mlachica]

I finally had a chance to install the bracket and alternator this weekend since I'm not really a football fan. I just wanted to emphasize how great the quality is on Bill's bracket. From fitment to hardware and finish - it's all top notch. The directions were clear and install was straight forward. Thanks Bill.

The most time consuming for me was removal of everything: battery & tray, old alternator and tensioner assy.

In a close second was having the bushing sit flush on the top mount. What worked best for me was a 1/4" brass drift and a 22oz hammer. It really helped removing the oil filter and moving the oil dipstick - it gave me enough room to swing the hammer.

Anybody know if the pulley can be ordered new? I'd like to get a spare alternator and fit the correct pulley to it.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by Mlachica

Anybody know if the pulley can be ordered new? I'd like to get a spare alternator and fit the correct pulley to it.

27411-66040. Current published list price $40.10.

[Mlachica]

Dammit...

Sorry, I just need to vent a little.

I bought the 150a alternator from one of the car-parts.com dealers, got it installed and everything was great. Not for long though. Shortly after my voltage started spiking at 16+ volts and dropping down to 12 volts. So I figure I got one with a bad regulator. No big deal - lifetime warranty from the seller. However the only one they have has 140000 miles.

I ordered a replacement from somewhere else in the meantime with 40k miles on it. It arrived today with a cracked plastic case with some jumbled insides - the result of UPS and poor packaging.

I want the 150a in my truck but I'm getting a little frustrated here.

Rant off....

[NLXTACY]

Originally Posted by Mlachica

Dammit...

Sorry, I just need to vent a little.

hate to say it but I've been in your shoes several times now. I have the new 150A alternator but I have NOT put it back on yet even though I've had it for months now. So I feel your pain.

[EricE]

I have problems with my "new" alternator. I am trying to get the pulley off the Alt I just bought off Ebay. While holding the pulley with a pipe wrench I can get the nut to turn but the pulley is spinning on the shaft while the Alt turns. The nut is not loosening. Is there any safe way to stop the Alt from spinning so I can remove the nut?

Edit: I couldn't see a way to get that nut off so I am trying to take the Alternator apart in order to find something to grab onto to keep the shaft from spinning. But I cannot get any further than the attached photo. Any place I pry is causing plastic to flex. I can't see how the rest of it comes apart.

[Photoman]

A ½” impact wrench works the best. There is just a tin fan behind the pulley which might bend if used to keep the rotor shaft from turning. The pulley has no key so it can rotate on the shaft as you found out.
If you don’t have access to an impact wrench there is a trick you can try. Put a 10mm ¼” drive socket inside a 22mm socket. Stick a ¼” drive extension through the ½” drive socket opening into the 10mm socket. Connect a ¼” drive breaker bar or ratchet to the extension. Use this on the 10mm hex on the end of the rotor shaft to keep it from turning (set to tighten direction). Use a pipe wrench, vise grips, channel locks, whatever to get purchase on the outside of the 22mm socket and turn to loosen. If worse comes to worse you might have to rough up the socket to get a bite on it.
Hope this helps.

Bill

[NLXTACY]

Both times I just took it to my mechanic and had him do it. He didn't charge me for it even though he's already lost tons of business because I do my own stuff now

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by EricE

I have problems with my "new" alternator. I am trying to get the pulley off the Alt I just bought off Ebay. While holding the pulley with a pipe wrench I can get the nut to turn but the pulley is spinning on the shaft while the Alt turns. The nut is not loosening. Is there any safe way to stop the Alt from spinning so I can remove the nut?

Edit: I couldn't see a way to get that nut off so I am trying to take the Alternator apart in order to find something to grab onto to keep the shaft from spinning. But I cannot get any further than the attached photo. Any place I pry is causing plastic to flex. I can't see how the rest of it comes apart.

Eric, did you ever get the pulley off and if so how did you do it?

Bill

[lt1fire]

Am I correct in thinking this is only an upgrade for the 1FZ engines and not a 3FE??

[96r50]

Unfortunately so.

[lt1fire]

Originally Posted by 96r50

Unfortunately so.

Well I'll just let myself back out of this thread then

[96r50]

Originally Posted by lt1fire

Well I'll just let myself back out of this thread then

And stay out of our headgasket threads too






















wait...

[alaskacruiser]

Just finished rereading this thread as I'm thinking of tackling this project soon (got a bracket a while ago, just now getting around to it). I'm wondering if anyone has found a smaller-than-stock pulley to increase idle output and make the stock belts fit easier. If so, please post up! CDan- any recommendations on other Toyota pulleys that might fit the bill?

[Corbet]

I got a bracket a long time ago and have yet to do the mod, however has anyone had any issues to date with their fusable links and the higher output on the upgraded alt? It seems to me that if you had a high enough current draw from something connected directly to the battery like a winch you could create a situation where more power than was origninally designed to flow through the links could cause them to pop. But I don't know at what level the fusable links are supposed to fail?

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by alaskacruiser

Just finished rereading this thread as I'm thinking of tackling this project soon (got a bracket a while ago, just now getting around to it). I'm wondering if anyone has found a smaller-than-stock pulley to increase idle output and make the stock belts fit easier. If so, please post up! CDan- any recommendations on other Toyota pulleys that might fit the bill?

I have no idea re a smaller diameter pulley. Toyota does not publish pully dimensions so it would be a very long research project that I do not have the time to spend on. There is more to it than diameter. You also have to deal with center-bore and groove spacing.

It may be possible to chuck it in a lathe and cut it down but it's cast and I don't know if that's possible.

[concretejungle]

Originally Posted by Corbet

I got a bracket a long time ago and have yet to do the mod, however has anyone had any issues to date with their fusable links and the higher output on the upgraded alt? It seems to me that if you had a high enough current draw from something connected directly to the battery like a winch you could create a situation where more power than was origninally designed to flow through the links could cause them to pop. But I don't know at what level the fusable links are supposed to fail?

I upgraded my fusable links when i installed the larger output alternator. No issues so far and we are going on about a year in use.

I have yet to upgrade some of the "other" wires. I can't remember which ones they are, but if you go to the long thread detailing the install of photoman's bracket, it's suggested to upgrade a few of the other wires in order to get the full upgrade effects. I would like to do that when i have time.

[Corbet]

I've already greatly upgraded the main + cable from the alt to the fusable link as a result of my electrical failure at CM09 this spring. However the fusable links have really prevented me from doing this mod. Mr. T had to choose the size they did for a reason. But, I have not had the time to try to determine that reason. Was it to limit the OEM alt's output or protect other parts of the electrical system? If anyone kows please chime in. I hate chasing electircal gremlins so I'm reluctant to make mods to the OEM system without doing my homework first.

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by alaskacruiser

Just finished rereading this thread as I'm thinking of tackling this project soon (got a bracket a while ago, just now getting around to it). I'm wondering if anyone has found a smaller-than-stock pulley to increase idle output and make the stock belts fit easier. If so, please post up! CDan- any recommendations on other Toyota pulleys that might fit the bill?

I don't know of any Toyota pulleys but a year or so ago I had considered machining a smaller diameter pulley. It was not so much to aid in the fit of the larger alternator; but to increase the alternator rpm’s at lower engine rpm’s. I made some quick pulley groove angle gauges, did a bunch of measurements, and it can be done. This is all from memory so take it for what it is worth. If I remember correctly, the best way was to reduce the hole size where the flange nut goes in. This leaves more material that can be removed to reduce the pulley diameter. The stock pulley size can be reduced but it is taking away from the thickness that is left at the bottom of the belt grooves. Reducing the flange nut access hole size this way might require using a regular socket to remove the flange nut as opposed to an impact socket. The other thing iirc, is the maximum rpm’s that an alternator is rated at is 18000. So it probably would not be good to exceed this, especially for prolonged periods. At the time I ran some calculations from my measurements and iirc at least a 10 or 20 percent diameter reduction would not be a problem. I have the paper work and a machining drawing I started somewhere. If I find it I will post up some of the figures.

Bill

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by Corbet

I've already greatly upgraded the main + cable from the alt to the fusable link as a result of my electrical failure at CM09 this spring. However the fusable links have really prevented me from doing this mod. Mr. T had to choose the size they did for a reason. But, I have not had the time to try to determine that reason. Was it to limit the OEM alt's output or protect other parts of the electrical system? If anyone kows please chime in. I hate chasing electircal gremlins so I'm reluctant to make mods to the OEM system without doing my homework first.

The fusible links and fuses are sized to protect the wires and components in that circuit. There also are unprotected wires on a vehicle. For example the wire from the battery positive to the starter has no fuse so there can always be problems. Fusible links are now mostly outdated and have been replaced with mega fuses. The 2003-2007 Toyota Sequoias where many of the upgrade alternators are coming from use a 140 amp fuse on the alternator circuit. See 2 in picture. In this upgrade it has been recommended that the charging wire from the alternator be increased in size and the fusible link replaced with a mega fuse. This is basically duplicating the Toyota Sequoia alternator “B” terminal to battery positive charging wire. .02 worth.

Bill

[alaskacruiser]

Originally Posted by Ivan80

I replaced the B+ and the ground to the engine block, along with running a new ground to frame with 2/0 wire.

Ivan80- This may be a dumb question, but I'm working on the wiring upgrade now, and while I changed the ground to the engine block, I can't seem to find where the ground to the frame is. Would you (or someone else) mind describing or preferably posting a pic of this ground wire?

[superjuice]

i beleive the frame ground is about one foot of wire connected from the neg. batt. terminal to the drivers side wheel well, right next to the battery. this is what i have seen on my 97' setup. But of course I was wrong once before

[superjuice]

I would just like to thank PHOTOMAN for putting all the time and effort into making this sweet dream a reality. The bracket is amazing as well as the instructions and support. If anyone needs more amps this is the way to go! Thank you sir

[96r50]

Bump for a very nice piece of hardware. Photoman was kind enough to ship me one of these last week and it arrived yesterday. As others before me have said, it is a very nice piece of craftmanship. Thanks Bill!

Now to find an alternator... and some wire... and a fuse...

[IBCRUSN]

I worked with my alternator/starter guy on locating or fabricating a smaller diameter pulley when I accomplished my installation. We came to the conclusion that if we retained the V belts there wouldn't be a significant enough improvement to warrant the time or $$ spent.

If there were a means to replace the V belts with a serpentine or multi-rib belt, the diameter of the alternator pulley can be reduced with significant improvements in output. At one time I did ask Beno to research multi groove pulleys on other Toyota's that would fit the 1FZ. So far I haven't needed it so I never prodded him. I haven't had any issues winching with only one battery.

If someone has the sizes of the original pulleys you can easily determine alternator speed at the web site below.
Pulley And Belt Information Calculator

Use the calculator to determine what speed the alternator will spin at with various diameters. The Sequoia alternator is rated at 18,000 rpm which means there is a safety margin built in. Throw some numbers into the calculator and see how small of a pulley can be installed relative to the engine redline rpm. Bear in mind most people don't drive an 80 series on the rev limiter. I bet you'll find the pulley size that spins the alt to 18k - 20k at redline will be nearly as small as the nut.