[sdnative]

I am about to install the seqouia alternator using this bracket within the next couple of weeks (replacing the radiator as well, so I figure this is a good time).

Question: what do you do about the pulley? Do I take the pulley off my original and bolt it up the new one? Does it fit, and do the belts line up? I couldn't find much info on this, so I am guessing it hasn't been a major issue. Has anyone discovered another OEM toyota pulley that would fit the new seqouia alt and allow the original belts to fit as they should (perhaps a slightly smaller diameter)? It was my understanding that the seqouia pulley would not work as it is a serpentine style, whereas the LC is a v-belt, correct?

Any other late breaking news I should be aware of?

Thanks!

[walleyefisher]

I'm also going to do this swap...maybe tonight. However, the only think I'm worried about is the plug. I bought the new plastic plug at the same time as the bracket but I'm worried about FUBARing the wires when removing them from the stock plug.

Suggestions would be nice

Oh ya, and yes you remove the old pully and install it on the sequoia alt.

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by sdnative

I am about to install the seqouia alternator using this bracket within the next couple of weeks (replacing the radiator as well, so I figure this is a good time).

Question: what do you do about the pulley? Do I take the pulley off my original and bolt it up the new one? Does it fit, and do the belts line up? I couldn't find much info on this, so I am guessing it hasn't been a major issue. Has anyone discovered another OEM toyota pulley that would fit the new seqouia alt and allow the original belts to fit as they should (perhaps a slightly smaller diameter)? It was my understanding that the seqouia pulley would not work as it is a serpentine style, whereas the LC is a v-belt, correct?

Any other late breaking news I should be aware of?

Thanks!

The stock pulley fits on the new alternator (the shaft sizes are the same). The way I did it was to put a leather glove on and hold the pulley, then use a 22mm socket on an 1/2" air impact tool. This should spin the nut off. Normally the pulley should then just slide off with your fingers. If it does not then use a puller. It should not take very much pressure. The shaft and pulley are not keyed so they are not usually on very tight. I just reversed the procedure to put the other pulley on. I did not hammer with the air tool, just enough to bang it up tight.
The belts line up.
Correct on the poly-vee and vee belt styles.

Originally Posted by walleyefisher

I'm also going to do this swap...maybe tonight. However, the only think I'm worried about is the plug. I bought the new plastic plug at the same time as the bracket but I'm worried about FUBARing the wires when removing them from the stock plug.

Suggestions would be nice

Oh ya, and yes you remove the old pully and install it on the sequoia alt.

If you have the electrical FSM it shows the different connectors near the front of the book and suggestions on removing them. For this connector I used a flat style tool (Snap-on TT600-5 fwiw), about 1/16 inch wide X about 1/32 inch thick. I just pushed it in the connector where the male pin goes in and just pushed the connector out the back of the plastic plug.

Edit> just in case of a fubar incident Toyota makes a replacement pigtail that has the metal connector and weatherproof plug on it - part number 82998-12440. Cdan has them in stock.

Bill

[SF80]

Bill, just got the bracket/connector in the mail. Looks great! Can't wait to install it.

[concretejungle]

OK, so for some reason electrical scares me. Trying to make this swap happen right now.

So, are we saying that the white wire pictured that comes up out of the wiring bundle, into the black box (terminal on right) and up to the battery should be disconnected and an entirely new wire run down to the alternator? Sorry i'm just confused about the wiring.

I already have the plug hooked up, it's just this.

Also, i guess what i'm not clear on is this wire travels down through the wiring bundle and splits into three. So am i replacing the one wire from the split to the under hood fuse box? Replace all three?

[Photoman]

Yes, replace that wire with a larger one and run it through a fuse to the battery pos. At the alternator the original large white wire connects on to the "B" (large) terminal. Where it connects on to the "B" terminal there are actually 2 white wires in the lug connector. A smaller and a larger wire which you are replacing. The smaller white wire should be cut and then crimped in the new lug of the new larger white wire.
To sum up, the larger white wire gets increased in size from the alternator "B" terminal to the battery positive terminal and needs a fuse. The smaller stock white wire that was also connected to the alternator "B" terminal with the larger stock white wire still needs to have power so should be crimped in with the new wire lug.


Bill

Edit > If this is not clear and you need to get going, just run another larger wire through a fuse from the alternator "B" post to the battery positive. In effect increasing the size of the stock large white wire while preserving the small white wire connection at the alternator. This will work but personally I don't like it as a permanent clean solution (double connections, double fuses). The small white wire is a power feed for the under hood and in dash fuse boxes.
The confusion is the small white wire splits several times to feed power to the above mentioned places. All of that is irrelevant. The important thing is along with the larger white wire, it starts off at the alternator "B" post so needs to be included in any new wiring to have power.

[concretejungle]

Thanks Bill, you are the man!!

I unwrapped the wiring so i could better see what i was dealing with (that ATF fluid got into everything )

Anyways, hopefully this picture will help others.

Bill, am i replacing the entire white wire i have drawn red arrows on in my picture and putting a fuse in line with it?

EDIT: also another stupid question, but i'm about to head to the store to get wire and fuses.....

I got a 130 amp alternator. Should i go with the 250 amp inline fuse or is the 125 amp you pictured enough? Also, this is a really stupid question and shows my wiring intelligence, what is the 100-300 amp fuse block for?

EDIT2: ok i think i answered my question about the fuse block, it's just a gizmo attaching the two ends of a wire and the fuse sits in the fuse block, right?

[Photoman]

Bill, am i replacing the entire white wire i have drawn red arrows on in my picture and putting a fuse in line with it?

Yes on the white wire. That first picture is a good one showing both white wires in the lug at for the alternator "B" connector.

EDIT: also another stupid question, but i'm about to head to the store to get wire and fuses.....

I got a 130 amp alternator. Should i go with the 250 amp inline fuse or is the 125 amp you pictured enough? Also, this is a really stupid question and shows my wiring intelligence, what is the 100-300 amp fuse block for?

I had heard that the circuit should be fused approx. 20% more than the capacity of the alternator. So roughly 150 amp would do it. Very important - fusing a circuit protects the components but also the wiring. In other words a 150 amp fuse won't work with #18 wire. The wire will burn up before the fuse blows. So a number 4 or larger wire should be fine for this distance. Just get 4 lugs that will work with the wire. (alternator to fuse block - fuse block to battery positive)

EDIT2: ok i think i answered my question about the fuse block, it's just a gizmo attaching the two ends of a wire and the fuse sits in the fuse block, right?

Right, the 100-300 amp fuse block means it will work with a range of fuses from as small as 100 amp up to a maximum of 300 amps.


I should not muddy the waters but sometimes it is helpful to know other alternatives.

Alternative: Leave the stock wiring connected to the "B" alternator post. Run the new larger wire and fuse as we have talked about from alternator "B" to fuse to battery positive. Then just disconnect (unbolt) the little white fuse link wire in AM1 little black box in your first picture and wrap the end with tape to keep it from shorting.
Pros: This eliminates the stock large white wire and fuse (fusible link) while keeping the connection to the small white wire down at the alternator for the fuse boxes. It also eliminates having to crimp in the small white wire with the new big wire at the alternator.
Cons: It does leave having the "B" post doubled up with the two wires so not as clean of an install.

I hope this is reasonably clear.

Bill

[concretejungle]

Thanks again Bill. You are a huge help. My hats off to you.

[concretejungle]

any tips on "tapping" in the bushing? I got my alternator installed today, but there was no way in hell it would fit in the pivot bracket with the belts on to do the "tip in" with that bushing being slightly petruding inward. Hope that makes since. In other words, i had to tap the alternator in straight with a brass drift just to get it into the pivot bracket. With the belts on, i couldn't even get it started into the bracket.

So i got out my little brass drifts and there just isn't any room to swing a hammer in there to try and tap the bushing in. I gave up for tonight, but i'm almost there.

[96r50]

I had my stock alternator out last week to replace the brushes (after seeing the pics of your original stock brushes!) and when I went to put it back in it was binding a bit. I used a 12" long piece of 1x2 scrap wood I had lying around. The bottom end rested against the power steering pump and the alternator casing contacted it about 5" up. A little bit of pressure (pretty minimal) was all it took to get it back into the upper pivot mount.

[Ivan80]

Originally Posted by concretejungle

any tips on "tapping" in the bushing? I got my alternator installed today, but there was no way in hell it would fit in the pivot bracket with the belts on to do the "tip in" with that bushing being slightly petruding inward. Hope that makes since. In other words, i had to tap the alternator in straight with a brass drift just to get it into the pivot bracket. With the belts on, i couldn't even get it started into the bracket.

So i got out my little brass drifts and there just isn't any room to swing a hammer in there to try and tap the bushing in. I gave up for tonight, but i'm almost there.

CJ, Try this from my earlier post.

Originally Posted by Ivan80

I took a socket large enough to fit over the bushing from the front, and stuck a bolt through it from the front. Put a washer and nut on from the back side of the bushing and tightened the bolt head until the nut pulled the bushing flush to the back side of the mount.

[Photoman]

Ivan80's method is the best. Maybe add some PB Blaster or equivalent first.


Keep in mind there are only 2 bolts that hold the bracket on. That way it can just be taken off and taken over to workbench where in some garages there is more room to work on it.

One thing for sure, if light tapping does not move the bushing, then do something different. The bracket is cast so the ear with the bushing in it could break off.


Bill

[concretejungle]

Thanks. I was skimming through the thread and must have over looked that method. Sounds like sound advice. I will give it a shot this evening when i get home.

It's been a long process as i don't have a garage and it has been raining every evening at around 4:00 on this week. I don't want to stand out in a thunderstorm trying to wire stuff up.

I will post back and update when i get to it.

in my best southern draw Spanish voice...... grassyass!

[Ivan80]

Originally Posted by concretejungle

in my best southern draw Spanish voice...... grassyass!

De Nada

Hope you get the jist of the method. It looks like I had a few cervesas in me when I wrote it.

[concretejungle]

thought i would share a pic showing the socket/bolt/washer method to move the bushing in. Worked like a charm!!

The alternator tipped in so easy after moving that bushing in. With that said, i would probably do the same thing even if i was putting the stock unit back in as it was super tight before.

With that said, i will probably have to ask another question tomorrow. I have this thing almost tied up, but it's dark outside and i have to finish running the upgraded wire to the fuse block and then to the battery. With this thing sitting apart for over two weeks i have almost forgotten what wires are what. When looking at where i cut the large wire in the wiring bundle, there appears to be two wires that are cut? WTF? that is scaring the piss out of me. I'll try to take a pic tomorrow. I hope it's nothing.

[Photoman]

If you mean you cut both white wires at the alternator “B” terminal lug; that’s Ok. Just include the smaller white wire in with the new larger wire when you crimp the lug that goes on the “B” alternator terminal. If by chance you have already crimped the lug on the new wire, just crimp a ring terminal on the small white wire and put it on the alternator “B” terminal with your new wire. HTH

Edit> I'm glad to hear you got the bushing back with Ivan80's method. It makes it so much easier to get the belts on by tipping the alternator in.

Bill

[concretejungle]

Okeydokey, fired it up this morning! Working good! Plugged in the scangauge and i'm charging at 14 volts. i have not completely wrapped all the wiring up in protection as i was worried that something might not be wired correctly, but so far it seems it is correct. I will wrap up the wiring tomorrow and call it done!

Figured i would post up some part numbers for anyone that was planning on doing this upgrade. I went to NAPA for the fuse block and fuse. I got a 150 amp fuse and associated block.

150 amp Fuse block: 782-1143
150 amp fuse: 782-1138

hope this helps.

[robmir]

Originally Posted by Photoman

The stock pulley fits on the new alternator (the shaft sizes are the same). The way I did it was to put a leather glove on and hold the pulley, then use a 22mm socket on an 1/2" air impact tool. This should spin the nut off. Normally the pulley should then just slide off with your fingers. If it does not then use a puller. It should not take very much pressure. The shaft and pulley are not keyed so they are not usually on very tight. I just reversed the procedure to put the other pulley on. I did not hammer with the air tool, just enough to bang it up tight.
The belts line up.
Correct on the poly-vee and vee belt styles.

Bill

I am not familiar with the Tundra alternator since in my case I replaced the stock alt with a Powermaster bigger case Denso and I had to increase the 80 series OEM pulley shaft hole in a machine shop because the larger case Denso has larger shaft diameter.

I guess this is good news for me since I plan to buy several Tundra alternators to resale them here and it will be easier to replace the pulley.

[concretejungle]

Wanted to follow-up on this thread and let everyone know that everything is working perfectly. I'm very happy with the bracket and the performance now.

If anyone has a bad alternator or one that just goes out, this is a great time to go ahead and upgrade.

[SF80]

I'm excited to install mine tomorrow! I'll post up and let everyone know how it goes. Already took the alternator to a shop to have it bench tested, and the guy said it was outputting over 150 "without him even really pushing it." Good sign #1.

[NLXTACY]

Damn, I was hoping to get to this before my trip but its not looking good. I have everything in my garage now just no time to install. :(

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by concretejungle

Wanted to follow-up on this thread and let everyone know that everything is working perfectly. I'm very happy with the bracket and the performance now.

If anyone has a bad alternator or one that just goes out, this is a great time to go ahead and upgrade.

I'm glad you are still making lots of amps and thanks for the update.


Here is a chart that I found interesting. It shows typical amp draw of various automotive devices. It was published by 4-Wheel & Off-Road magazine December 1997. I’m sorry I lost the link so can not credit the article it came from.


Electrical Circuit Amperage

Air Conditioner 12-20
Backup lights (two) 3-4
Brake lights (two) 3-4
Cigarette lighter 10-12
Clock 0.5
Dome lamp 1
Headlamp dimmer 2
Headlights (two, low beam) 8-9
Headlights (two, high beam) 13-15
Heater/Defroster 6-10
Horns (two) 20
Ignition 2-4
Instrument panel and gauges 4
License plate light 1
Parking lights (two) 2
Power door locks 5
Power seat 25-50
Power windows 25-50
Side-marker lights 2
Starter solenoid* 10-15
Taillights 5




Add to the list:
wipers 3-6 amps
radio or sound system 2 to ∞ amps
electric fuel pump 7-15 amps
injectors 2 amps
Winch ≈ 400 amps
Toyota overhead – ignition, ecu, abs, diff lock, etc. ?????
Gps, laptop, mirrors ????

aux. lights – add watts of all bulbs together – roughly divide by volts = amp draw
Example - 2 Hella 4000’s with 100 watt bulbs. 100+100=200 200/12 volts=16.66 amps

aux. fans – see fan specs and use above formula to work out amp draw.

Example - I replaced the stock engine fan with 2 electric Spal pancake racing fans. They required 25 amps to run. I had them come on with engine start so this was a constant 25 amp draw.

Just like in a house service we don’t run all things at once but it was interesting to see how fast things can add up.

Bill

[matt49]

anymore brackets in the works?

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by matt49

anymore brackets in the works?

I still have some. PM me or email me at the address in this link if interested. Prices are still the same.

Bill

[sdnative]

Bill,

I've had the new alternator installed for a couple of weeks now and it works great. Thanks for putting this bracket together!

I do have a question though: I haven't upgraded the white wire yet, and wanted to verify that it's only required when I draw additional (more than stock) loads? I plan on rewiring it soon, before I add any additional loads (e.g. inverter), but wanted to make sure it was safe in the meantime.

[Photoman]

Originally Posted by sdnative

Bill,

I've had the new alternator installed for a couple of weeks now and it works great. Thanks for putting this bracket together!

I do have a question though: I haven't upgraded the white wire yet, and wanted to verify that it's only required when I draw additional (more than stock) loads? I plan on rewiring it soon, before I add any additional loads (e.g. inverter), but wanted to make sure it was safe in the meantime.

Keep in mind the condition of your battery. Any time the voltage regulator senses the system voltage is down (like after you start the cruiser) it will try to bring the system voltage back up. In doing so it will possibly try to use the full output of the alternator. So its not just the additional load of accessories that can cause more than stock loads.

Bill

[sdnative]

Originally Posted by Photoman

Keep in mind the condition of your battery. Any time the voltage regulator senses the system voltage is down (like after you start the cruiser) it will try to bring the system voltage back up. In doing so it will possibly try to use the full output of the alternator. So its not just the additional load of accessories that can cause more than stock loads.

Bill

Got it, thanks. I'll be rewiring it soon then. I have a brand new huge battery, so hopefully it doesn't get taxed too bad on startup.

[SF80]

I did the first half of the install this weekend (got the alternator mounted and running.) Still running the stock wiring, I'll fix that this week. My install seemed really easy compared to some of the others here, I went with the 7450 belts and did not have to tap-out the upper mount bushing or anything.

I really want to think about the wiring and come up with a game plan of what I really want/need and how to integrate that with all of my other wiring (dual bats, 2 ga to rear for inverter/accessories, other craziness.)

Thanks Bill for making this bracket and making a high-output alternator install a possibility!

[sdnative]

OK, after thinking about how exactly I want to upgrade the wiring, I have a question or two:

I am looking at the EWD189U, page 48, and it looks like the easiest way to upgrade the wiring is simply to lift the ring off of the B alternator terminal and wrap it up so to isolate it from shorting on something. Then run a larger wire directly from the battery to the B alternator connector through a fuse. This was suggested earlier by Brian894X4, but I dont think anyone caught the simplicity of it. From what I can tell, this is a legit solution, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Second, where can I source the parts circled in red:



I know I can probably get the blue sea stuff from west marine, but what about the battery terminals? I was just going to buy the whole harness from urban land cruisers, but I think I'll just build my own.

Thanks!